@@seriouslyseriesaustralia Thanks, I love following them. I bought a 64 Series 2A two years ago and it's taking me some time to work through all that needs doing to it. The chassis is my main concern, a couple of outriggers and the two front horns where the leaf springs link need welding too. Then once that is done, just the general upkeep and maintenance. I can't wait to get her back on the road and out an about.
hi geoff, just saw this vid, thx for sharing information. i have a few comments. the swivel-pins, especialy the top one in the railco fighting a loosen battle from the start up. there is supposely a little whole in the buttom for lubrication, which is francly a joke. so take them out, check replace or service them some with fresh grease or oil. the steering relay also loves to get some fresh oil. ball-joints: never on earth greasing them once a year is enough. and what about the sealer of the swivel-balls. if u dont take care by dismounting and cleaning them, they will eat the chrome of the swivelballs. just my 2cts. cheers
Hi Bernd. Thanks once again for sharing those top-tips. How regular you service the items on the vehicle as you no is very dependent on how many miles you are doing each year or so. Thanks, Cheers Geoff
Like your video a lot. Thanks for your hard work and sharing your knowledge. Would you make a video on the brakes for the Series 3? For servicing and stopping brake fluid leaks all over the wheel. Cheers.
If you have brake fluid all over the wheel the seals have gone in the cylinders. I changed all mine out with no prior experience, just watched a few vids on forming copper brake lines and went for it. Buy decent brand cylinders even though they are twice the price, the rubber needs to be good quality and not cheap ready to leak in a years time rubbish. When bleeding the brakes use an Easybleed or other low pressure bleed kit. I stuggled pumping the pedal, suction bleeding, reverse bleeding with a syringe. None of it worked. Low pressure Easybleed kit took 15 minuites to do all four corners. I couldn't believe it was that easy.
Hello, First of all congratulations for your videos. Very useful information. Ás expert let me ask something. I have a Land Rover serie 3 with steering issues. The address is very hard and I understand that it for the steering relé. I will change it. But also the driving is sinuous and gives a feeling of very little control? What would you look at to solve this? Thanks in advance
Hi ricard. First, thank you for your kind words, I really appreciate it. It is really nice to know people enjoy these videos and it is helping others. Your question; There are three things that it could be; 1) faulty steering relay, 2) worn tie rod ends/ball joints and 3) wrong pre-load on your swivel hubs. These are all easily replaced and pretty cheap. Once fixed and replaced you should have a much more pleasant driving experience. Kind regards, Geoff
I have a series 2A 1963 it came without a speedo cable, and I ordered an aftermarket one. It screws in nicely at the back of the speedo but does not seem to fit in the drive shaft underneath without using washers to hold it in place with the three screws? Please help
Hi Jason. That is correct the washer retains the speed cable into the speedo drive. The cable should have come with one or if not you can use the washer off your old one. The screws are a BSA thread and can be a bit hard to get. I would recommend downloading or buying a parts catalog which has all the parts number and exploded diagram of all components. Best of luck. Cheers Geoff
Hi Steven. Thank you for your kind words and glad to here these videos are of use to you. In regards to the second [art of your message, I gather you are asking where I source my reco-swivel hubs? Cheers
No, I have the repair kit from Britpart, wondered if you went over the repair in any of your videos. If not, which manual would you recommend? I’m concerned with torques and so forth.
Hello in my experience the inside of your front tyres wear excessively if the bolts are loose or the Seiko bushes in the top of the swivel housing are worn also extra oil leaking from bottom bearing also the swivel housing tend lean in and create a large degree of negative camber , as for the steering relay try and keep oil up to it ,if the seals gone grease can be pumped in ( like the 2a army ones ) as for replacing them if you go by the book it a long hard job , but you can repair it insitu without taking any panels off I leave the housing in the crossmember and dismantle it I than dismantle the good one and and insert the guts of it in the housing in the crossmember ,mostly with 2 or 4 hose clamps and grease block of wood and hammer ( you have to mindful of the spring it could become life-changing) I have done 2 in this manner and freed a totally seized one buy soaking it in old diesel for 12 months and that has worked fine . R
I would recommend checking the whether there is oil in the steering relay. If there isn't this will cause the steering to almost feel like it has seized. Best of luck, Cheers Geoff
Land rover series are very different from other vehicles in their swivels with railko bush. Don't know what the studs/bolts are he's talking about? Vehicle needs to be jacked up so there's no weight on the wheels. Swivels/kingpins are shimmed and they wear (they end up looking elliptical instead of round). By removing shim you can have king pin sit on an unworn part alleviating slop but real fix is to replace kingpin or build up and machine. The bolts only pull down the King pins. Steering relay should be lubed often as to not have it rust into the chassis which makes it very hard to replace. Top to bottom play can be kingpins or wheel bearings. Front to back play (side to side) is wheel bearing only. If steering relay bolt comes loose you don't have "play" you have no steering if it's loose enough to turn on the splines! There's also two adjustment bolts at bottom of relay. Steering relay also has a small hole on top for lubrication/ breather.
