Short vid about lapping a Jnat with diamond plates. Etsy Shop - www.etsy.com/shop/tomonagura Website - www.tomonagura.com/ FB - / tomonagura IG - / keithvjohnson
Hey Keith, you are probably the best guy on RU-vid that I found when it comes to Jnats. now I have gone crazy over the last months and got myself a nice collection of Jnats for my knives. I have started to seal 3 stones with Nail Polish. since Cashew is close to imposible to find. but funny I have found Uruashi, which is crazy expensive. now one stone that I have sealed has starting to peel off some of its coating. almost like paint. and one stone that I bought came sealed but that one aswell have started to peel of. Now I am try a different Laquere @Klarlack which is made for wood stone and glass to make new coat. but I am also afraid now for my Expensive stone that are bigger and more valuble that I havnt yet sealed. you who know more and better. any tip to why the seal comes off and what to do better to prevent it. since now I am afraid of using my stones to to much exposure to water.
Sorry, I don't know why your nail polish coating is peeling. Could be any number of things causing it. Might be too thick, might be the stone wasn't clean before coating, Hon Urushi is toxic - have to be careful using it, takes 30-60 days to cure and that process is very specific, if it is not followed correctly then it won't work correctly and you can get a bad rash from handling it. I would not use it for sealing stones.
@@KeithVJohnson1 cool you answered so quick, yea no I will not use Uruashi, found it just funny how I stumbled onto it but I can not find Cashew. ok well I did 2 coats maybee 3. but I think 2 layers with the Nail polish. however I did brush the stones with a toothbrush before and they where dry. I will try the other Lacquer from the Local hardware store and see it if works better. I guess I do 2 layers with it and hope it works better. Thanks for the quick response.
I’ve missed you Dr Lord 5 star general Keith V Johnson. I have two stones one iLR and one shobudani Mizu Asagi jnat. Like u said the iLR is a door stopper. This exact issue is something I’m about to encounter with my next hone. But I lost my razor to TSA, I’ve just gotten a cheap replaceable blade straight razor (idk what it’s called) I’m 23 from the northeast 617. Maybe one day I will get to work with you on some content creation. Cheers mate!
@@KeithVJohnson1 on that subject any recommendations on steel or material for a razor I have sm content creation ideas for you, if you ever care to hear.
As a rule I don't make recommendations, everyone is different. Just try stuff, see what you like . I barely have time to keep up wth this channel as it is, there is no time for more stuff to do, lol.
@@KeithVJohnson1 Yeah for some reason I thought that you were only using the 140 for special circumstances like lapping lower grit synthetics or something but I’m finally seeing that it’s an integral and primary part of your lapping system. Thanks
@@KeithVJohnson1 I don’t have a 140 at all. My 400 is really exhausted and takes forever remove material and I’m wondering if all the additional time is leaving the door open to problems. I’ve always used running water so at least that’s a variable off the table. It could be a simple matter of replacing the 400 though…
Awesome to see a new video from you Keith. I do have a question. If someone is new to lapping stones, what grit lapping plates you recommend? What would be the highest grit you'd recommend going? You use a well worn 400 (I think that's what you said) but would that be the "equivalent" to say a new 600?
My first plate as a 220/325 DMT. Today I use a 140/400 - almost the same. The Atoma 600x and 1200x do not hold up as well as the 140 and 400x lapping plates. A worn 400 is not like a 600, two different things. I think the Atoma 400x is the most universal out of them all. But if you have to take off a lot of material, the 140 is the way to go, then the 400. If someone is lapping Arkansas stones, I'd say use SIC powder, and not plates.
Do you check for flatness each time you use a jnat (one in your normal rotation, I know any new stone gets a full lapping)? When using only tomo I rarely lapped my jnat. Now I have a full botan-koma progression I enjoy. Need a straight edge still, but will probably start lapping the stone some after I take a razor through the naguras.
I check every time. Even a short nagura progression can knock the top out of flat. Usually doesn't take long to do when it's checked/fixed all the time.
Hey Keith, it's been a while and it's good to see a new video for the year. I had a question about sealed stones since you mentioned it. Admittedly I haven't watched your videos or gone through your back catalog in some time, but I was wonder if you have ever removed the lacquer on your stones and started over. If so: how did you do it, and if I missed a video that covers that, which one? Thanks, I hope you're well.
@@KeithVJohnson1 I have a stone I sealed because a hairline crack formed on its sides, but I did it with nail polish. You mentioned something about candy coating, rather than the polish really setting and it makes me wonder how well set the polish is. Presently, I'm not going to attempt it but I was curious what input you had, if any.
Hey Keith, I bought a ridiculously hard jnat. The tomo is fine but I would like to use the stone slurry with a diamond plate. I would like to get an atoma and i have a doubt. Do you think a 400 would be too coarse to make the slurry? Would it leave kinda scratchy pattern on the stone? I was advised to get a 1200 to do this but the 400 would also allow me to lap the stones I have so I could find another purpose to it. What would you suggest?
I do not advocate using diamond plates to raise slurry to hone with. Even the hardest Jnats will give up slurry if you are patient, and you use the correct Tomo. A slurry mix of tomo/Honzan slurry often pans out as best though, but it can take a while to find a match. Even with a softer Tomo, you still get base stone in the mix. It's a matter of the percentage. No one cuts a piece of their stone off to use as a Tomo, the concept of a 'matched' Tomo is about finding a theoretical balance between two stones and making it sing. Diamond plate slurry is way coarser than needed, and can be problematic. It can leave diamond particulate in the slurry, and marks on the stone too. If someone goes through a progression up to Koma, and worked each step correctly, there is no logic to using a cheese grater to create particles that are like 1-5k and all over the place in size, shape, and density. Just doesn't make sense. I know a lot of people who believe they are clever do the diamond plate thing, but I've been honing on these stones for too long on too many stones and compared too many styles and methods too many times to count. I'm unwavering on the topic. The results from using a Tomo nagura have far greater possibilities and way fewer liabilities. As for lapping with Atoma plates, I only recommend the 400x, the 600x and 1200x are not that great for this and do not wear well. I have seen many 1200x plates wear unevenly and then they leave a weird pattern on the stone. The 400x is solid though.
If your stones are flat from lapping on the DMT, then they're flat. You can't make them flatter. Flat is flat. If your stones are not getting flat on that DMT, that's something to talk to DMT about I think.
