...and this is what happen when you piss off your deity of choice by not offering him (or her) a proper bloody sacrifice before you commence yer work... ;-) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3-jT3HrSHjE.html
Did the tapped holes have to be clocked to one another on each side? Really cool part. Looks like fun. Oh and how did you pump out the swimming pool? Cheers, Tom
It's just two covers, one on each side, so they don't have to be perfect, but I did mark the jaws before flipping it over and then just aligned the marks. The swimming pool? 200 rpm for 10 seconds 😅
Great work as always. I have always used round inserts myself for deep grooving, but have recently been using dnmg more and more for exactly the reason you gave
Hey Chris, super Bauteil was du da gefertigt hast! 👍 Programmierst du selber an der Maschine? So ein Facharbeiter wie du einer bist, ist echt Goldwert! Mach weiter so mit deiner tollen Arbeit
Many thanks for this new great video ! I'm pleased to lurn all your technics with you and your vertical lathe. I have a question about the inserts. You always use "gold" inserts. Personnaly I have bought "nano blue" inserts" wich are very strong. Do you use them sometimes ? I have an old lathe (from years 1940, my neighbour gave it to me, it was from his grandad), but it is a very good lathe that is very precise, the clearance is abou 1/100 mm). Many thanks christophe
Questo non è un artigiano è solo un programmatore. Qui fa tutto la macchina lui scrive solo dei codici su uno stupido monitor. Gli artigiani sono quelli che lavorano al manuale, altra gente veri artisti
The Kennametal A4 style tools with the full rad are pretty great for cutting this kind of groove, but maybe not at this scale, i make 12-16" sheaves. the chip control and feedrates are much better than button tools as well.
glad those straps are strong af.... cause the way hes got it rigged that inner section of strap, hooked to the chain, is supporting all the weight of that steel.
Guys always wondered how do you manually touch of a neutral tool like the DNMG for the pully? Touching of diameter pretty simple. Do people just touch of the tool shank and go halfway?
This coolant should look like that, or it's 10 years after it should be changed? I really want to throw up a little just from looking at it. Machining beautiful like always
Bonjour, une question peut-être un peu bête : pourquoi ne pas faire une ébauche de la poulie venue de fonderie ou forgée ? Il y aurait moins de copeaux et de temps d'usinage, non ?
0:39 - Only see the bore tolerance (and finish); all else per note on the drawing? 1:31 - My machines have nowhere near the rigidity yours do, but this sort of info is really helpful to tell me the limits of yours. As a punk kid at Cinti Mill lo, these many years ago, I asked how you tell a good machine tool from a bad one: "Weigh it." (this assumed some minimal level of quality/accuracy) 5:56 - Earlier, there was a groove near the 'bottom' of that radius; figured it would be gone by the time you took a finish cut. 7:10 - That's the "34" dim at 0:39? 7:38 - And that's the "24" same time stamp? 8:02 - Looks like the bore is *finished*. 10:56 - You got bragging rights. 16:42 - Watching the coolant rise until it's obvious that the drainage is outrunning supply. 17:26 - Looks to begin falling. 18:57 - Did not see these @0:39. 20:25 - I was wrong. 22:32 - So the m26 holes were added for clamping. 22:35 - Standing O. 22:55 - And better finish. 25:29 - Always a pleasure: TY.
Chris the four 26MM holes you put in for the final operation, i didn't see in the print did you get permission for that or where they on the print, i also saw some large herring bone gears do you make them, i'm going through a gear box now that needs four made for it.
Okay, I understand. I asked the question because I'm working on a bullard vertical lathe, and I'm having difficulty predicting how long it will take to complete the tasks.
