Nice video, To be on the safe side it’s probably best to put a disclaimer that the perfect mating of the DIN and SAE flare types are just a side effect are not intended for joining pipes together. I see you have noted this but just in case viewers go away thinking this is how it’s done.
£2 per foot plus £1 per end was what I was quoted recently but the convenience of being able to make quality brake pipe connections and quick on-car repairs plus the satisfaction of DIY make this tool worth the money. Good vid. Thank you.
BTW, you can use the clamp jaws in the body to straighten the end of the pipe you want to flare. Put the bent section into the jaw so that the it rises at 90° to the jaw, fit the other half and tighten the clamp bolts.
But you're mating a DIN single flare with an SAE double flare. Not recommended. As far as I know you can only join DIN flares using a double female junction piece that you screw the two male connectors into.
A DIN flare has a flat seat onto the nipple, whereas a SAE flare has a 45° seat onto the nipple. (different standard nipples, obvs) but what flare is required onto a DIN female nipple? As you can tell, I'm a bit confused! Thanks for the video, btw, helpful as it's introduced me to this combined DIN/SAE tool, but it seems that everyone making these pipe flaring guides are oblivious to the 2 different standards.
This video incorrectly shows a DIN flare being put into a double SAE (female). A DIN is a male and you have to use special unions to connect 2 DIN flares.
Hello I was wondering could you help I have the same kit as yours, but when I make a double flare SAE it makes the flare ok but it squashes the pipe out just behind the flare then the flare nut won't push to the end against the flare, I think the pipe I'm using is 3/16 not sure if it's copper or copper nickel if that matters. Thanks
I was going to buy one of those tools. Thanks for showing. I am going to stick with the old way, because that tool is nice but over complicated, and takes longer. Time is money. ;)
For safety always do a double flare ....and get yourself a decent pipe straightening tool ....brakes are worth the money. I have a similar tool but I've got a few LASER tools and are pretty decent. Have bought SEALEY tools but never again ... ridiculous prices .. ridiculous spare parts prices and all the SEALEY tools I've bought have been crap to be blunt and just a warning to other watchers ...don't buy their pipe flaring kit. It doesn't work ..is shit and the dies are awful .... Saw some other comments and yes get a decent camera setup mate. Can't see half the video ....good luck on the focus. Just going to replace the lines on my ST220. Always a good idea to use nickel conifer pipe not just copper......quite a bit stronger and the tool will still flare nicely 👍🏻
Thanks for your comment if u are making new brake lines u would not under the car you would be at the bench or sitting next to the car and just so u know I work on car 6 days a week and have used this tool in tight spots also and it works there to
I have used a Sykes Pickavant flaring tool to splice in new sections of brake pipe under stretched limousines in very confined spaces, and it wasn't as compact as this one, so I should think it would be well suited to that sort of work.
Thank you very much for this video! I just bought this tool and have a question. Which bubble flare does this tool produce? I am making brake lines for a 1968 MGC GT. SAE or DIN? Thank you.
If you compare the specifications of copper and cupro-nickel brake pipe, you usually find that max pressure rating is the same for both. I think the main difference is resistance to corrosion, and I find cupro-nickel makes neater bends.
I'm guessing that you have realised by now that you shouldn't join pipe in the way you have shown here? You have made a din bubble flare, no problem. Then a sae double flare, no problem. ........ But one isn't supposed to fit to the other. Two separate systems. You need the correct joiner fitting. Ie. Din to din with din joiner fitting in between. Or sae to sae with sae joiner fitting in between. ✌. To the best of my knowledge. Check it out. Best regards.
@@Mrdiyhobbies which you have done very well. I got the same impression, which was that method would be acceptable to make a joint. I don't see why it wouldn't work but a proper jointing union seems to be the recommended approach.
I have the exact same tool and line as you to make double flares but when I use the first part of the die my line starts twisting even with lots of grease and tightening the block/clamp. Have you seen this before? Any advice? Thanks
@@Mrdiyhobbies this is brand new line and yes I only have the grease at the tip of the tool. I’m thinking it’s poor quality line..maybe too soft.. so I ordered more from a reputable brand. Hopefully that’s fixes it. Thanks
@@Mrdiyhobbies no I appreciate the video you made , just wanted to make you aware some of the video was off camera when you were displaying an item..thank you , that’s really kind of you..
@@CHIBA280CRV I will make sure on my next video I will improve with the camera I hoping to get a new camera but as am starting out am using a iPhone but I will improve thank u for watching and sending me comments
🤔Copper is way too soft REAL dangerous for ANY brake line's always use REAL stainless steel for any bright lines always got to have a REAL GOOD flour tool for ANY stainless steel brake line's...
Copper is not recommended. Copper nickel, steel or stainless is recommended. Not sure of the UK but many states in the US have regulations for licensed mechanics on what they can use for brake line repairs and copper isn’t one of them.
