Glad to hear your love for your tools. Taking good care will help them to last a long time! When I went from regular 15w-40 to 0w40 syn on my MB diesel I picked up 1mpg american.
John, Thanks for another important video. Your headstock wouldn't last very long without oil in it! I hope Debs is doing fine. I'll comment more after your Sunday Night Nitecap. Thanks again! Have a good one! Dave
I have been watching loads of lathe videos recently. I thought my old Colchester Triumph round head lathe was noisy. After seeing this I have realised I have one that is extremely quiet. Not that yours is noisy at all - just mine is like a ghost!
You know that yellow protective foam they put around scafolding in public places. I used a small piece of that over the microphone on my mx20 and it reduced that focus on backgound noise, did not effect the general sound, and also cut down wind noise. Cheers
At one pointing did a bit of research into gearbox oils for an old car I had. I discovered that sulfur based gear oils for rear diff's shouldnt be used with bronze, but anything without sulfur is OK. Which includes most ATFs. What atf doesn't do for me is a high enough viscosity for my lathe. Thanks for the video, I think I'm going to do the same with my noisy lathe, get some good modern oil in there. Your description of that top oil channel made me think I better go check the leveling of my lathe to make sure the oil can flow to the front bearing right.
I found many hypoid gear oils to contain some sulfer. I think your call to go with a high end synthetic was a good one. See here, #8 for more details. www.morrislubricants.co.uk/lubricants/company.asp?wp=91
Very important to change the oil. That it increases mileage is simple, it has less change in viscosity with temperature rise, so they can make it a lighter weight oil while still having it be a good lubricant at running temperature. The hot oil is as viscous as the regular oil, but when cold it is still the same unlike the regular mineral oil, so it absorbs less energy in the box to churn it, and thus the box runs with less losses. Your car box would be running about 10C cooler after a long drive. Less heat generated by the oil churning in the box is less work done by the engine and thus less fuel used. Impressive that they put in the swarf magnet, and that it is still clean. I have found that they will grow a thin film with time of wear particles, so your lathe looks like it did very little work, and not much high speed operation, which would have generated the highest force on the gear teeth.
Sean, your first paragraph has some basis in theory, but in practice you won't notice any change in mileage - see my other post. Power loss in lathe headstocks is quite unimportant - it's not as if it will reduce his electricity bill by anything other than an entirely negligible amount.
Royal Purple? That’s actually some excellent gear oil although I would never imagine it used in machinery. How’s it working? I’ve used Lucas in my bandsaw gearbox and it seems to work decent so far.
I bet you love your new lathe! Royal Purple is some super good oil! Though not cheap. You are correct: synthetic oil does improve gas mileage! In any car. Not much, but worth it over a few thousand miles. By saving just a few gallons (or liters) of fuel pays for the extra cost of the synthetic oils. It's more stable over temperature ranges than organic oil. It also increases the lifespan of the moving parts. No gimmick, it is true. The only negative issue with synthetic oils is: it's expensive and it finds any small crack or pore to leak out of (because it is so "thin").
sounds nice that john . i dont think ATF would harm bronze bushing they used to use in nearly all rover and quite a few Austin gear boxes from what i can remember i know my SDi run it and it was manual
hello John , good videos , you mentioned you had a colchester Bantam which had a noisey ol gearbox , well my tripumph lathe is just the same , get it in high gears an doesnt she go to town !!! keep up doing the videos , all the best ........
John I noticed that the chuck takes a while to stop was it like that before you changed the oil ? Or could it be the brake is worn , regards to both of you
What sort of speed does one use for a wiggler, and for an edge finder. I cannot find a speed that works well with me. The fault might lie in the wiggler or edge finder quality. Norman
Anyone know where I can get this product at a reasonable price? Best price I can find is £34.94p per litre including p&p. As much as I love my lathe this does seem a bit steep.
Well I won't be putting funny oil in my lathe ! It'll be proper oil from a proper oil company - Shell or Esso/Mobil. All oil will lubricate but that's not the real issue. The real issue is compatibility with rubbery compounds as used in oil seals - and using an oil that keeps them supple so they keep working as a seal. Folks like John should know there are about 4 different automatic gearbox oils (Type G (Old Fords) and Dexron II) are the two that come to my mind and I can't think what the real difference is other than caring for oil seals. Apart from viscosity.
I am not english too but if someone wants it can be understood after careful listening.. very good channel with loads of very usefull information. Keep up the good job sir! regards from Poland!
Burlats de Montaigne I have traveled extensively inside the US and abroad. So I'm used to communicating with people with difficult accents to understand. In your case it's impossible as you speak too fast with way too deep of your local speech pattern. I doubt if slowing your delivery down and he will do much good so what you need to do is think seriously about captioning your videos. What you have to offer is valuable but I don't have time to replay this a dozen times in order to find out what it is you're actually saying. in addition you need to check these comments more often as it's been some time since I placed this shity remark.
