Just be cognitive hahaha love it. The world forgot about the fact that you need to be cognitive to do a good job. You've inspired me to remind everyone in my life to be cognitive at work
I started watching you last year and had the confidence to do my own. Im 75% done with a 1200sqft mega arbel with double holland stone borders. Its around my pool deck so its 60% curves inside and out. I thank you so much for being as detailed to us in your thought process and doing such amazing work. Keep it up sir.
Nice! That sounds like a big project... Congratulations for taking it on and making it happen! I'm glad the videos helped you with it, that is a big goal of my channel. Good luck with the rest of it! ✌
Looks so good. Bangin'! Don't mind long videos either. Everything you talk about is another nugget. I'm sure all the editing, uploading, etc. takes considerable time. And you do a good job of that to. Thanks for doing it.
Thank you! I always wonder how long is too long on these videos and it can be difficult to fit everything into a 30-40 minute video... And making the videos can be time consuming but I love making them and sharing them ✌
Looks mint! It'll be more cohesive with the backyard patio too with both of them jiving instead of the older, beat-up one. Especially nice with it being curb appeal.
Looks great dude, and couldn’t agree more about setting your borders by hand. It’s a huge disservice to the customer when they sink, and it’s a loss for you to go back and fix what should’ve been done right the first time. 👍🏻 worlds better from the original pavers my dude
Thanks brother, that is such an overlooked step in the process. So many patios and walkways fail around the edges... I would hate to get a call that the border failed on any of my projects. None yet thankfully and I truly believe it is because of that step. Happy Father's Day man! ✌
What a great video! I am only going to do a small 8x8 low budget patio with pre-strung pavers (or whatever those pavers are called that are stuck together with plastic, lol). First time doing this so trying to get all the helpful hints I can for leveling and proper drainage. In my search I stumbled upon your video & watched the entire video!! You are clearly a professional who takes pride in their work and that deserves huge kudos. The pleasing personality was a bonus! Great job, great video and thank you for being generous enough to share it with the public. We would hire you in a heartbeat given the opportunity. God bless you and your family in the journey through life!
Today I looked at a client's 3 year old paver walkway and overlaid entry stoop that is already starting to come apart. The overlay is a mess. I think she's going to have me pull it apart and do it right. It will be my first of hopefully many larger (to me) hardscaping jobs. Your excellent videos, tutorials really, are more helpful than I can say. Thank you! Also the walkway looks great. Peace out! ⚒✌👍
Hey fellas great work, also great teaching. I’m originally from Worcester , but currently living in SC . Thank you for your well explained tutorials. Looking forward to applying all your methods . One love ! “ TITLE TOWN” God bless y’all , and your business !
Now that’s what you call being inventive. Having Benny creating a directional hurricane to keep the dust away from your eyes. Who said Benny didn’t care 😁
Love your vids - I'm commenting on this one b/c it's the most recent. I have a few questions/clarifications regarding a huge project I am embarking on. I'm in Colorado & have a heavy clay soil. I am very concerned about drainage & freeze/thaw. We get a few heavy (for us) rains per year usually, but for the most part are dry. Averaging, at most, 3in per month... but large storms can dump up to 4in over a few hours in a few extreme cases. 1in of rain will yield approx 600gallons on a 1k sqft patio. 1 - the free draining base. My yard is sloped & I want to raise 1 end for a 1000sqft patio. Bordered on 3 sides by raised planters holding trees (most likely arborvitae). I have mitigated all the water run off from the neighbors & am ready to start the actual project now. I estimate I need close to 100 tons of crushed stone to level the patio area. To save cost I want to use recycled/crushed concrete ($17/ton where I am).. the issue is they only have 1.5 inch (compacts to 1.10 tons/cy). Can I use that? At least for the majority of it & then do 3/4 crushed stone on top of that (roughly $40/yd)? 2 - If I understand from your other videos correctly - I will only compact the first 1-2 inches or so of crushed concrete/stone into the subsoil & then fill the rest to grade? 3 - The depth of the crushed layer will be approx 8" to approx 34" (I can build up to 40" in my area w/out a permit). How can I expect the "dry well" portion to act? If the current bare grade/soil doesn't drain well & is very "mushy" when saturated... should I be concerned about the occasional large storm... with a potential of yielding 2000 gallons in a few hours? Thank you for your time & any direction you can give & happy Fathers Day.
Hey there, glad the videos have been helpful. That sounds like a big project! My rule of thumb is that if you do not have water issues in the area you are building in now, you will not have water problems after. Especially when you use open grade base. With that being said, if you do have water issues there currently, Lifting the grade like you said will definitely help prevent water issues after. Are you building a retaining wall I assume..? If so, just make sure you put drainage pipe behind the wall and have it spit out through the wall at the lowest point of the wall. Then any water in your base will drain through it and be diverted to the lower grade around it. And with 34" of backfill, you should compact in at least 6 different lifts with open grade base. And if you use crushed concrete, I would make sure you compact that every 5-6" to for sure. Also, make sure your subsoil is pitched away from the house also to help it flow towards your wall. I hope that helps, it is tough to give perfect advice through a comment like this but I think you have it thought out well. Good luck and Happy Father's Day to you too! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks for the quick reply - top notch given the info I gave. The retaining wall is a bit unconventional by N America standards. I modeled it from the way the Australians do it. Concrete sleepers. I am casting 5ft long concrete blocks that are 4x9in. I am using a UHPC mix with basalt fibers & additional rebar. They weigh about 150lbs each. They will be stacked on a gravel trench (shallow trench foundation) & retained with posts that will be anchored into the backfill via cable & steel anchor. Again, Thanks.
Can’t beat using a level for screeding, but. The screed to by pave tool is sooo much easier, especially for us guys who are about 230. 😂 don’t gotta bend over to get it level. A lot easier🤙🏼
When you've been doing this long enough you can feel it in your dead blow hammer when the paver or block is properly set and compacted. I'm sure you know the feeling.
@@TheChristianHardscaper You said in one video (I thought), that you guarantee you builds for 5 years. Using plain concrete, like you do, how many have you replaced, not using fiberglass and strengtheners? 😇
@@norrisonian That is correct, I give 5 year warranties on all my projects which does cover the concrete edge restraint. Have not had to fix anything yet. ✌
You’ve mentioned suppliers put too many squares and not enough large rectangles in 3-piece paver sets. What is the ideal ratio between the 3 sizes? Thanks!
Love your videos, man! I have 2 question. 1) I live in Canada and discovered your videos when I finished my main base with GA. Now, I've reached the stage where I'm about to lay my pavers. You recommend using clear 7/8" crushed stone instead of stone dust for better drainage. I've already set my main base with GA, so I'm wondering if it's too late to switch to the 7/8" stone vs stone dust. What are your thoughts on this? 2 ) Do you just hammer the pavers and that is it? you do not compacted them with a machine after they are set? .
Have to tell you, I watched the videos on this walkway and was waiting for someone to lose their focus or lose their balance and dump a wheel barrow load down those steps. 😄
Thanks for the great video. I appreciate a pro that does the job right and takes pride in their work. I am just a DIYer and put in a large raised paver patio and paver walkways next to the house. In the process of redoing all because the backfill around the house foundation sunk, about 1 1/2", even after compacting. I used the plastic edging for the walkways, but it has not held up. The clay soil and frost heaves have it (edging) all screwed up - the pavers have laid back down nicely every spring. Question - I was considering using concrete for the edging like you did in the video but concerned about the frost heaves cracking it all up. Do you recommend concrete in this type of soil? I have used small retaining wall block for lawn edging (no base) in a couple of areas and it has maintained its level consistency extremely well. Also thinking of using them for edging, but pretty expensive.
13:52 do you need to do this for bedding sand as well? This may explain why my blu 60 pattern ended up not as even as I would have liked. Considering doing a lift and reset at some point and want to make sure I do it properly. Love the videos! Wish you made these when I did my paver patio
Instead of hammering each paver, would it be possible to roll a water-filled lawn roller over it? Do you not use a plate compactor to avoid scratching the surface of the pavers?
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome thank you for the reply! How do you like the bomag? I’ve heard good things about them. The Honda engines seem bullet proof! Hahaha
Great videos, I've watched quite a few and am considering doing a paver driveway next year instead of concrete. I'd be using SS5 over my silt/clay soil with around 8" of base. A local municipality crushes concrete for a concrete base, but they call it 1-1/4" for size. All I've seen/read call for 3/4" as a base, but could I use this larger size for the first 4-5" of base, then 2-3" of a 3/4" base and topped with 1" of chip stone?
I have always used open base under retaining walls, I’m currently adding a paver patio and landing to a 3 tier wall I built last season. I usually do stamped color concrete, as it was less expensive and more common in my area. Due to the price of everything involved with stamped, colored concrete with a pump truck it’s more cost effective for pavers and it does blend better with the retaining walls. I was going to try out the landscape fabric from srm that you mentioned, I got a price of 749.00 per roll of 6/300 is this a accurate price for this material or is it because it’s not a widely used product in my area?
Stamped concrete can be a bit cheaper in the end but I agree that pavers match wall block better.... That price seems very high.. The 6'x100' rolls that I buy cost me $80-$90. I would shop around a bit for comparable fabrics.
Hey Ben…. How’s JLo? Love your channel… learning a lot. I’m about to do a patio under my pool pavilion I just built and need some advice. The perimeter of the pavilion will have a small retaining wall acting as a step as the patio elevation is approximately 12-16 inches higher than the pool deck…. So two, or three rows of blocks, first row buried plus a 3” cap. The caps need to meet the pavers exactly spot on.. so do I install them higher by a 1/4” or so for compaction with a plate or do I beat them level with a hammer as I go? What would you do? And one more, the wall will be level…. So do I not pitch the patio?
😂 JLo is doing just fine...LOL Glad you are enjoying the channel! And yes, you just need to set your screed rails 1/4" higher than the cap and set the pavers down to the height of the cap. And if I were you, I would pick the best direction to slope the pavers and slope your wall the same way. I know it may sound like a weird thing to do but you can slope a wall to 1/8 slope just like pavers.
Thank you… I will have the front of the wall at the main entrance from the pool level… and then the patio and the side perimeter walls will pitch up towards the back end.. I want to end up somewhere less than 1/8th on the pitch to keep the total drop around 2 inches over 25 feet
Brother, I love you guys and your channel. I think you do amazing work and always try to do the absolute best job you can. Thats why I don't understand why you would allow that Moffett driver to make a hard 90 turn on a customer's sealcoated driveway leaving tire marks all over the place. Tire marks from a heavy piece of machinery like that can last forever and even show thru the next new coat. Hold your delivery drivers accountable my friend. Hope y'all are staying bogey free out on the golf course, bro!
I appreciate the feedback man! I know what you mean but that machine didn't leave any permanent marks and there wasn't many other places to put the pallets... That guy has a ton of experience and has delivered for me a lot. Never any problems. He is very professional and knows how to not make damage. And unfortunately I don't know what bogey free means...LOL 😂 ✌
@@eladvanallen8282 Yep, it is all the same to me. My favorite is getting a birdie on a par 4 then bogeying a par 3 right after...LOL It is all for fun at the end of the day to me
Maybe there is… but the tread wasn’t square with the walkway so it wasn’t uniform cuts. The time didn’t make or break anything for my estimate. No big deal to me
