Moe, nice video. The first time I saw this product was back in the 90's at a fleamarket. The demo given showed how the repair was stronger than the orginal. I bought a couple dozen rods. I think I have them forever. Stay well.
VERY nice. Not something I'm likely to need very often, but I like it and definately have it filed away for one of those "in case I ever need it" moments. Thanks for sharing.
Saved me from buying an entire Carb just to take 1 float bowl for a Tiny hole. Thank your very much! GSX1100 are tanks can’t find a used part anywhere in sight lol.
excellent tip yet once again. Very useful info. With you and a couple other channels, I always play your commercials all the way through or more (with the volume off lol) because you deserve paid for such good content.
Same comment as BC Truck, I'll be looking for that product because I have a use for it right now. By the way, I ordered some Shoe Goo too. Your costing me money so I can save money.
yea ,well guess before the war they might have had some 250 2stroke sold , but not meny over there , they are from austria and dont exist enymore as a manufactor, got bought by italian piaggy but there mehcanics was awsome back then , held up good and easy to repair. i live in denmark thats why i got one to repair!!
I have that same torch. It's a turbo or swirl torch that burns quite a bit hotter than the regular style you light with a striker. Advice to the uninitiated, be very careful with that thing on a piece of thin aluminum like a float bowl. Keep that monster back and scratch back and forth with the end of the rod on the surface to be brazed. The second you see it streaking back off the heat and fill the hole. If you aren't familiar with that braze practice on a scrap piece first or at least use a small torch lest you find out first hand how fast aluminum slags down. It aint pretty and often not repairable.
+sixtyfiveford Thats why I like using the small pencil torch for those small goodies. I messed up the cowling on my plane once with that same torch. Really thick aluminum too. The hole the camlock went through was severely fretted. Went to slag and dropped out in a blink and i had to redo a patch the size of a dime and redrill the hole. Boy that stuff does a fantastic job. It drills more like steel and you can grind / sand it easily . Much harder than the parent metal in my experience as well. If you try to get it at a welding shop they just laugh at you and say what garbage it is. I guess their primary interest is selling you a $3000 tig torch rig. One nice thing. This stuff was very hard to find for decades. Now you can get it at Harbor Freight for around $8 and it has no storage requirements at all or shelf life.
ha ha yup still here :-)) Didnt know you could braze with aluminium at all, new to me :-) When i was at school about a million years ago, we had to braze plates together, we had some pink sort of flux to dip the brass rod into, wonder if you could get something similar for aluminium rods. So if it takes without you melting the whole bowl, then leave it be lol.
Yeah, it melts around 400 Celsius where aluminum melts at 660 Celsius. So it's easy to get it a little to hot and have your work piece turn into a puddle. I've never used flux when aluminum brazing but it makes sense.
That's great! I'll have to try that. I was told a long time ago by a person that repaired aluminum to mark the material with a black permanent marker. Once the heat turns the mark brown, that's the sweet spot. Don't heat beyond that point or it will melt through. I've never tried it, but I'd sure like to know if it's true. :)
hi, concerning the hole at bottom of that float bowl....there is a bolt and a metal washer ? Mine seems to be leaking at that metal washer. Seems to me it should be a rubber washer, right ?
It should be a soft aluminum washer. You could also use like fiber gasket material but not rubber as gasoline will just destroy it. Most of the time when you think the gasket is leaking, you actually have a pinhole leak somewhere in the bowl.
Yes, but not while under pressure. You would have to drain it first but it would be permanent. However I have used JB weld with success to repair a AC leak and it lasted for years. You wouldn't need to drain it but you will need to degrease it good and lightly sand the area to ensure a good bond.
Great job!! I always look forward to your videos. Hows that pea sheller coming along? LOL..... I know you must stay busy doing things for others.. Keep up the good work.
Just read your comment again. I wouldn't heat the carb itself. I would use JB weld. However, a premade hole in the side of the carb is likely a vent. If it is leaking from the vent, likely your needle and seat aren't sealing properly.
I accidentally drilled a hole thru a Welch plug in my Tecumseh carb.would I be able to use this to seal that hole?im really kickin myself in the arse right now!
The welch plug on the underside, under the bowl, across from the needle/seat? That one is no big deal. The one on the side of the carb, back by the outlet of of the carb is the idle air/fuel mixture inlet and will need to be sealed off. JB weld putty would work fine but hopefully non of the precise metering holes underneath got damaged.
sixtyfiveford thanks a lot.this is an old series 2 outboard carb and I only see 1 plug on outside underneath the idle mixture screw.it is dead center and didn’t damage 3 other tiny holes.so job weld will hold up to oil n gas mixture?thanks for responding back btw!!
This happens to my Tecumseh bowls all the time. I've gone through 4 of them like this. What I don't get is why does water do this to aluminum so easily if it is in fact water? I suspect it's something to do with the damned ethanol now. Whatever it is, it's a real PITA.
No doubt about moisture but if a thin walled aluminum can holds coke for decades without issue I want some chemist to explain why a carb bowl 4 times as thick can't last 2 years...
