Thought my issue was head gasket. But obviously something was going on inside as well. Rough running and lost power while driving until I hit the shoulder. It wouldn’t crank back up for me. Tore it apart and had 5”the head resurfaced (it was warped pretty bad he said but gauge never read real hot). Put everything back together with new plugs, wires, other gaskets, radiator (blew a hole in the radiator when truck starting running rough the day it quit on me). Now I’m suspecting something more serious because after the head gasket job was done, it would start but run terribly rough. And now smokes from behind the engine. And there’s also a noise you can hear that kinda sounds like manifold leak but it’s coming from driver side 1998 s10 2.2. Leaning towards valves. Should’ve checked that when I done the job but I’m not a big mechanic honesty. Everything else went pretty smooth
Thank you very very much, I had this problem in my Nissan Patrol, I thought it was a bad injector but, after seeing this video, I found that exhaust valve N° 3 cylinder doesn't close completely so the compression was low resulting in white smokes and engine was shaking so bad until it warms up. thank you again.
I love this video man, very helpful. I have a e46 N42 engine I replaced all spark plugs changed valve seals, head gasket and bad the bad coil. All cylinders are misfiring. The mechanic did not check for bad valve when he pulled the head. This will help me to test if there were any bad valve.
Amazing video thanks I'll definitively do those two tests on my car tomorrow Could a less defective, non sealing valve cause a "firecracker/gunpowder" smell from the exhaust by letting unburnt fuel land on the catalytic converter? My car starts well, but has a little hickup when I punch the throttle and it smells gunpowdery sulfury from the exhaust when engine reaches operating temperature.
Great video thanks. Back in the day we would use the card board off a book of matches. I haven't gotten to work on a car engine other than a race engine sense 1983. I have seen it try to suck that thin card board up and back out. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again
@@Khusta...Ngcupe the one with a bad exhaust valve sucked the towel in and the one with rebuilt heads didn't. So in short it...the paper towel trick works
Hey mate, just a question. My bike, honda cbr 600 rr 2004, is lately stalling in neutral at stops even clutched in and also while riding will lose power for a second or two or will jerk forward sometimes as I'm deccelerating. Do you have any idea what that might be? Thanks
Have a jeep liberty the cat was clogged and recently replaced it now it still runs rough . Getting rich code on driver side does that sound like a burnt valve from the clogged cat? I’ve tried everything plugs coils vacuums fuel injectiors and o2 sensors
I have my cylinder head off, burnt and damaged exhaust valve in cylinder 4. Question…what is the likely culprit for oil on the corresponding piston? The other two pistons had basic carbon buildup, but cylinder 4 had oil on it.
Thanks for the video. When you take the engine apart, would you just fix the damaged valve or replace all exhaust valves? Does it depend on value/age of car? Difficulty of job?
Good video. What causes a burnt out valve like this? The valve not seating properly? I hav a 523i that has done the same thing. Its runs hydraulic lifters, could one of them be bad?
It could be from the lifter but usually from Carbon buildup, Physical valve damage (broke valve seat, bent valve, etc), Sticking at the valve guide, Broken, damaged, or weak valve spring. Anything that prevents a perfect seal and allows a leak to start.
Got an interesting one, did your test with the paper over exhaust, car was running a little shakey. Did a comp tests on all 6 cylinders and they are all the same around 130 psi. Cant put my finger on it
Went to change the valve stem seals and found worn camshaft and rockers. Changed the lot and cleaned gummed up hydraulic lash adjusters. Now have intermittent symptoms shown in your video at idle. Any advice?
Is there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
I had the same problem on a 318 is. At cylinder number 3. I never find the mising parts from the valve. And was i litle bit harder to find new valves. I find one only one. And while i was laping them i noticed one of the older valves has a litle scratch on the head when valve seats at cylinder head. Any idea how to fix that. I need a faster response since im going to finish the car on sunday
Hi and thanks for the comment, send a picture to my instagram account and I will be able to see whats going on. just google Killawattgarage to find me.
Poor fuel, Sticking tappets, Sticking valve guides, Incorrect tappet clearances, Excessive carbon deposits, Overheating. Could be one or more of these. Thanks for the question
Thank you for the informative video. I have a 2004 honda pilot with 259k miles. It's misfiring from multiple cylinders, has problems starting, runs idle and has slow acceleration. I had a compression test done and cylinder 6 had 30psi (I think the normal range is above 140psi). The spark plug in the cylinder had lots of carbon on it and finally, there was a leaking exhaust valve. I was advised to change the engine, which is quite expensive, as opposed to repairing it. What's the best approach here? Is it something I can repair and if so, do I need to take out the whole engine?
With that many miles, overall the car would be getting well worn. It is not a smart financial decision to pay to rebuild the engine. A good low mile engine could be put in within a day and would be the cheapest way to get the car going again.
Typically when a section has been burnt off the exhaust valve it has occurred in a similar process to a gas welder. The combustion flame/heat escapes past the valve and valve seat and burns through a section with the flow going out the exhaust port. I hope that makes sense.
I have a 99 Civic, it had a bad cat that got replaced and went bad again, it has black carbon soot out of the tail pipe, loses about 1/2 qt oil every week or so. Car has no major oil leaks and I did a compression test compression was really good, what could be causing my problem?
Sorry for the slow reply I hope it is now fixed. High oil consumption will either be the oil control rings or value guides. You can try using thicker oil too.
I think I just got the same problem with my car now. It has been driven with the "check engine" light coming on now and then, but it usually goes away after some time, but after 3 hours of driving one way with a lot of prolonged climbing on the motorway up and down, one of the valves seems to have bitten the dust. I need to get this fixed. I had to drive home again with 75 percent effect, but at least I got myself a good motorcycle, it's always good to have the freedom of choice and alternatives :)
Mine runs alittle shitty and my mechanic said its crank, cam, o2 sensor, thermostat, coils, plugs and a shift solenoid so I’m in the middle of swapping that but I hope this isn’t really the problem lol
Just waiting to find out exactly whats wrong with my mazdadpeed 6.. i only had the car for 1 day and I have no compression in cylinder 3.. its alrwdy towed away so I cant test the exhaust sucking back into the pipe. But my engine reacted the exact same ways I gave a feeling its an exhaust valve not piston rings.
Either way it sound like the head will need to come off to inspect. Bad luck that you had it only for a day. Hope it get repaired quickly and without too much $$$
3 года назад
Hi. Thanks for your video. That with the cloth I don't know it and love it. Thanks. Can you help me with an 4 stroke engine, please?? It got 2 admition valves and 2 exaut valves. Has new valves and new retenair but I got lots of smoke with oil at the exhaust aut. So the problem only can be at the valve guide. But the can't identify witch guides are broken. The 2 admition valves are OK, clean. Tne 2 guides of exhaust aut are full of coal. Can you tell me please witch guides I must change?? Many thanks. And cart on with the channel.
100% what is currently wrong with my car. Replacing valves today. But what is also noteworthy, is what actually causes valves to burn...and it's a faulty fuel injector..
a bit of a disaster last week..i lost my coolant due to drain plug coming loose,however it didnt damage the engine because it runs on lpg and when you lose coolant the lpg shuts down..anyway called out the AA ,in England that is a vehicle recovery organisation..i asked the mechanic to check the compression while he was there...finds 3 cylinder was low compression,goes into cab and put its foot right down on the accelerator,swiches off engine takes out spark plug to look at it,leaves it out then makes a quick exit,says he's got to go o another job..i put spark plug back and starts the engine..loud growl and shake and engine will start n o more..was this because the mechanic high revved it? i know my valve wasnt too good but the engine did go and would have gone on alot longer
I assume it has a dual fuel option. I would start by trying to get it running on petrol just to eliminate any issues with your LPG setup. Another compression test would be a good idea as the one performed by the AA sounds as if it was rushed. I also want to question the setup that shuts off the car due to coolant loss, as this is not common in Australia?
the van only runs on lpg,its done 200k miles all on lpg...when it lost coolant the vaporiser just froze up..lots of ice around it,the gas freezes...the van was idling ok after putting back the coolant like it was before,ive researched about high revving engines while standing still and they say it can cause alot of damage..the coolant was still cold when he revved it up
when there is a leak in the exhaust pipes/system, it eventually kills the valves, due to heating/cooling cycling between massive temperatures different from the other parts around it. mine failed, for example, because of rust. rust makes all the bolts weak. when bolts holding the exhaust manifold ever break, it creates a leak in the exhaust manifold, where the gasket is. That is an exhaust leak, and the air then gets in that way, and that is already a breach and will cause those great temperature differences as you run the engine and turn it off and park it... then drive it again, etc. Over a long time, it'll eventually kill the exhaust valves. That is the theory.
High exhaust pressure will burn valves rather quickly. That's usually caused by a clogged cat. If the preasure gets high enough the engine will start to knock and eventually the engine will turn into a bunch of smaller pieces.
I have a Daihatsu Sirion 1.3 102 ps but it doesn't want to start. I bought it with a problem last ignited on 2 cylinders, I realized this after I changed the spark plugs, when I checked them only 2 were black. The engine worked for 5 minutes and turned off since then does not want to start at all. There is a spark and fuel but does not start. I replaced the camshaft sensor and crankshaft with new ones. The injectors are new to the computer and it has been replaced but no change. I measured the compression it is between 8 and 9 bar. Please help me I have no more ideas where the problem is 2 weeks I can not start the engine. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@killawattgarage Not yet. I’ve been debating on trying this valve repair stuff you add to the oil but I’m hesitant. It’s not a loud noise but I do notice it and it’s really only noticeable during heavy acceleration
Very often with burnt exhaust valves there is no damage to the piston as the missing sections of exhaust valve are burnt away with the combustion gases flow out the exhaust ports. Thanks for your question.
I've been to 4 garages or more for repairs, but my engine is still misfiring on cyl 4. No one can figure it out, everyone is speculating at this point. I've replaced injectors, coils, spark plugs, ground wires, alternator, throttle body, high pressure fuel pump, compression is 175psi across the board. What can it be...
I'm having this same issue. Changed out same things. Except my problems started first from cracked valve seals and oil getting in. Obviously changed seals then everything else. Still misfire on 4. When I switch the spark plugs and coils around it buys me a little drive time no issues but again. Cylinder 4!?! I have a 2006 honda oddyssey
Sir i Have 3 cylinder engine with Old skool roker arm tappet type .... That rocker tip has gone way down with alot of threads moved down towards valve where they meet does it indicates that my valve have wear n tear from upper side
Sounds like a lot of wear at the point of contact between the tip of the rocker arm and the tip valve and also the camshaft. Once you have gone past the point of maximum adjustment it will be time for replacement rocker arms, camshaft etc...
Yes it's the exhaust valves only as they see significant more heat and don't receive the cooling effect of the intake air/fuel mix passing over them. Thanks for the question.
@@montraycheers8629 i put that project on hold but from what I search ppl been lapping the vales and putting them back in the heads checking it for leaks and running with it i ask about this engine to so many people and they give me different answers
@@santosgarcia9499 ..... Well for starters I wouldn't recommend that you do it if your NOT a mechanic because if you don't know what your doing you could make matters alot worse than they already are. Example would be Like getting lapping compound into your valve slides and ruining your valves and possibly your pistons! So do yourself a favor and take it to a reputable garage please.
Will a bad exhaust valve cause any of these symptoms? I hope someone can help me. I have a 2000 honda crv b20z2 awd. I keep getting a misfire code. I recently bought the car. Did full tune up and fluid change on the vehicle. I also keep getting a dragging noise that comes and goes. I can be going down the street normal. Then when I press the gas to accelerate the dragging noise will happen. As soon as I let go of the gas. It stops. Even if I'm cruising. The noise is only there when I press on the gas. Any help would be appreciated.
Swap the coils and spark plugs from the misfiring cylinder and see if the code changes to other cylinder, if it does then your coil or plug is at fault if not, then check compression across all cylinders. More checking will need to continue from here. Not sure about the dragging sound...start by jacking up the car and spinning each wheel. Listen for any unusual sounds.
@@killawattgarage I had zero compression in one cylinder. I'm swapping the motor now to a jdm b20b. Still not sure what the sound is. Since the car is in the shop. We put it on the lift tho, and cant see anything wrong with it. Will see if the sound continues af tr er the swap.
Poor fuel, Sticking tappets, Sticking valve guides, Incorrect tappet clearances, Excessive carbon deposits, Overheating. Could be one or more of these. Thanks for the question
@@barbiebb5213 actually did. Turns out these symptoms happen to literally any car I tried. After tearing engine down and rebuilding, it still happened.
Definitely have a misfire at lower revs, but harder to notice once the revs build. A misfire code will be P030- with the last number being the cylinder misfiring. thanks for the question.
