Thank you for your hard work putting this together. Your clear and concise information is extremely helpful. I’m not from the trades industry but presently I’m a supervisor for the Home Depot Pro department. Im stretching my communication skills in order to better understand. Thank you so much! I will share your page with My young associates and customers that may need more information. Thanks again
Exactly, I've watched a bunch of videos lately in preparation for building a large addition to my home. It's been 30 plus years since I've framed. Believe me, he's the best teacher that I've found anywhere. Keep those videos coming please.
BEST DAMN CONSTRUCTION TEACHER IVE EVER SEEN...I did framing for a living, and if someone had taught me the way Mr Carswell teaches.. everyone would have been way ahead.
Well explained!!! I think is the best framing video I've seen. Everybody else only show how to do it but do not fully explain the "Whys" things go certain way. Excellent!
Thank you man I really appreciate it I needed this because I’m doing a test in my construction class tomorrow to get certified and I’m only in the 11th grade :D
Best of luck! - Here is a link to an interactive lesson we have on Plate layout - teach.h5p.com/content/1291577787346951918 - this our promotional version - the text overlay ends as the activity progresses
Thank you for this video series. Very useful when I'm trying to train my Jr carpenters the right way to do things. Helps them visualize the work before we do it on site. 👍🏾
Wow, I don't speak english very well, I'm new here in Canada and work as a framer helper, but this man is the best teacher, also i understand everything he says by his moves. God bless to you, mi dear friend
I don't have any direct experience with framing and have learned alot from your clear and detailed presentations. I have been wading through information trying to learn and have come up short finding information of butt walls. Please address the layout for a butt wall. The through wall layout is stand alone, it does not take into account a butt wall. However, the stud layout of the butt wall takes into account the thickness of the through wall, including the sheathing. Maybe an example using a 12' x 12' slab could be used to highlight the through and butt wall layouts and how they correlate to each other.
Buen día Gracias por tu instrucion Eres buen instructor de carpintería Se entiende todo muy bien Y las gráficas bien detalladas Gracias mil Seguire viendo tus vídeos 👍
I enjoyed the video but there is some confusion for those watching... when you laid out the cripples you said they don't transfer to the top plate which confused me but then I saw the animated layout and realized you put your header all the way against the top plate with cripples down to the top of the window's rough opening and while I thought that was strange, it's not the first time I've seen that odd arrangement/placement of a header. Then I noticed the model wall you have behind you and it was the normal way I seen a header framed in... head scratcher. I've always been curious if there is a reason for arranging your header framing one way or another??? Thanks for the video, very professional (and a bit entertaining lol)
The cripples do not travel from the bottom plate to the top plate - those are separate sets of cripples on the top. But we could have stated it a bit more clearly. Headers can be located "high" against the top plate or low (the more traditional way). We cover header placement in more detail in the header lesson. The model shows a low header but in production building, we are seeing headers placed as a high header more often in our market.
@@ConstructionEd Interesting explanation, thanks. I think most of my confusion lied in the way I personally lay out my plates.. when I lay out, I label the cripples on both bottom and top plates and simply think of it as a common stud with a window in the middle of it, that way all my rafters would still land directly on top of a cripple. This comes from me framing with headers directly above the window and cripples up to the top plate. Thanks again for what you do!
Great helpful channel, learning alot! One question is for running electrical wires, or HVAC Plumbing & electrical or otherwise from attic down to 1 Level ceiling on a 2 level building! Can you cut 1"/1.5"/2" diameter holes on both the double top plates/cap & top on exterior or interior walls framinged in? Will any of these cuts/holes made in any sizes mentioned above in any location throughout both of those two top plates hinder or disrupt the integrity to the strength of that wall?
Just subscribed! Wonderful content! I have already learned a good bit by watching just a few videos. I am VERY surprised this channel doesn't have more subs. Please keep doing what your doing.
So header sits on Jack’s of course. And then we throw in small jacks from top of header to bottom of top plate attached to the king stud. So they are basically short cripples that follow the same load path of the Jack’s. I believe the purpose is the help stiffen the king stud, a little beefier connection to top plate because we nail into the king stud, then nail through top plate and then toe nail to the header. It also throws any loads above more evenly onto the header instead of on the king stud which would make it less inclined to bow. It is a bit of a pain because it means cutting 4 cripples over typical door and window sizes instead of just two. AND I also think it’s to help prevent header roll. It’s how we have always done it in Missouri. PS: been enjoying your video series 👍
@@redneckgoatfarmer I have seen many folks add these cripples above headers and more often below a window sill. Technically they are not needed in either situation and can add to lumber costs and cause cold spots by increasing thermal bridging when it is not required. There are many holdover framing techniques that are still done today because "that is how we always do it". Our position is that if a structural engineer does not require it, and if it is not 100% needed for a nailer, then leave it out. Save time, Save Money, Save Heat transfer.
Such a great educational resource! Thank you. I may have missed this (watched twice) - I thought the header above the opening is directly at the top of the window space, so a cripple stud(s) would get marked at the top plate. But in your plans, the header is all the way up to the plate, with a block at the window, and cripple studs in between. Just a different way to do it? Or is there a reason to do it this way here as opposed to the way it was shown in the framing basics video?
I do not mean to be offensive or rude. But I am a carpenter instructor / carpenter superintendent .. I think you should have started the lesson by explaining the indicators first.. such as where and why you place an X next to a line . The K . S , etc. the header length , the difference between a thug wall and a butt wall . How to crown/ label lumber FIRST., using a carpenters pencil . How to use framing Sq for layout . Etc etc.
Don't worry Gary, I took no offense at all. I agree with your comments and we have video lessons on all those topics in our framing courses, and fundamentals course series. They can be found on our channel, look in the playlists.
Great explanation but I have a question about the window. Are you able to mark the height and header framing for the window on the layout or does the framer need to refer back to the drawings?
You can certainly write the window placement measurement on the plate somewhere - just so the framer does not have to go back and look at the plans. But typically, the framer is the one that is doing the layout and they likely have the plans when doing the layout.
This plate layout example is intended for a beginner - not a production framer. Joe has not worked on a production framing crew - the lessons are from 30 years in the remodel side of construction. Thanks for watching
Hi, do you do in person lessons? I need to learn to frame using California standards. Im taking my GC test in 3 weeks. Ive watched a bunch of your videos! Ive learned so much from you!!!
Sorry, we no longer provide in person lessons - now we focus on creating instructional resources for schools and trade employers. This free RU-vid channel is only part of our resource library. That being said, good luck on your GC exam, as long as you can navigate your codebook well you should do fine.
Why didn't you mention anything about the placement of pieces above the window? Also, the demo you built looks correct to me but your diagram shows a different layout.
The "start" of a wall is whichever end of the wall that you want it to be. Just be consistent. I typically find the through walls on a set of plans and call the end on my left the start. Then work to the right as I am building. But that is not normal that you can do the full framing project that way - there are many other factors that influence the build process.
What should I do after I drewed and assembled exactly the window size? I am thing about file the window frame or the Jack stud to install the window easier....Thanks.
Great information well presented. Two observations: the stud layout for the interior sheet rock does not fall on the marks when you consider where the sheetrock starts however the outside sheeting falls on the studs; additionally when framing the rough opening for the window and doors the kings are placed at the minimal opening - will this create a poor fit upon installation.
Layout rarely works for the sheathing AND the drywall perfectly due to the corners and T connections. But having the studs on an expected pattern it does help the drywall installation for the majority of the field.
Great videos. I have been trying to find a video from you for platform framing that describes how to start a second level on top of the double top plates. Anyone have a pointer?
Our floor framing and roof framing courses are not part of this Free Library. Platform wall framing for a second story is very similar to the first floor - you are just building on a floor platform that has space underneath. But of course you have to follow the framing plans if the Engineer has called out special load consideration framing.
Silly question, when you look at the diagram, should you take the perspective of looking at the wall from the outside or the inside, and is that view consistent every time?
9:51 Why did we go back 3/4'' to 15 1/4 instead of adding 3/4'' and go to 16 3/4 ? Did I miss something or is that a woopsie. Thank you for making this serie, the videos are very helpful
@@ConstructionEd I think the question is, when you start from the edge of the bottom plate, you are also measuring from the outside edge of that end stud. going the full 16 inches for the edge of the first interior stud should ensure that the centers of the end stud and the first interior stud are 16" center to center. At 15.25", the center of the first stud is now 16" from edge of bottom plate, but 15.25" from center of end stud.
May I try to address what I think was the question. The 16” on center allows a 4 foot wide drywall sheet to start/end in the middle of a 2x4. However, for the left side of this wall demo, the first 2x4 sheet will align with the left edge of the 2x4, versus the middle of the 2x4. Therefore, the second 2x4 distance needs to be 3/4” shorter. This will allow the right edge 4x8 sheet to fall on the center of the following;g 2x4. Hope this helps.
16 on center layout means the middle of the stud should land on the 16 inch mark. By backing up 3/4 of an inch to draw a line allows for the stud to be placed on the mark and then the middle of the stud will land on 16 inch.
yes. layout does not work for both the inside and the outside for the entire wall, because the first stud location is typically pulled from the outside edge of the end stud. It is typically setup to work the best for sheathing and a custom cut will have to be done for the drywall.
I've never found an explanation of how to determine which end of a wall to measure from when the length of the wall does not divide evenly in 16-inch OC studs. Which end gets the short opening?
A window RO should be larger than the window itself - usually 1/4 inch on all sides - but check the manufacturer specs for what they want for their window.
@@larrypahl5756 We did not provide you with faulty information - we are stepping the learner through a process based on the information provided as this video lesson is a beginner's exercise on plate layout. We explained to look at the plans to find the location of the window and mark the centerline. Then check the plans for the window RO (usually the window schedule or the manufacturer specs) and mark the opening for the width. In this lesson and the exercise connected to it, we called out the dimensions for the learner to practice marking a plate based on instructions. If you are building a wall for yourself, plan on marking your window RO based on the size YOU need. I hope you would not expect to learn everything about wall framing by watching one video about plate layout. I suggest you watch the series including the window installation lesson.
@@ConstructionEd my time has value. you use lotsa words. cool4U. i was taught to adhere to the specific need NOW, rather than “generaluze now, edit in specifics later.” most people seem 2 agree w/U. thanx 4 xtra explain
Can you tell me why the cripple stud mark is on the bottom plate? I thought the cripple stud is on the top plate. Thank you for this series. Very helpful.
If you'd just gone ahead with the letters written the right way up for yourself, nobody would ever have known you had originally intended to write them upside down for the convenience of the viewer. We can read individual letters upside down. Don't worry about it.
When framing exterior walls the layout pattern starts from the outside of an end stud. You are correct that his is not ideal for interior drywall. Layout starting points varies, and for exterior wall it favors the sheathing. Interior walls can be specifically set up for the drywall pattern
This is just a plate layout training exercise. The instructions call out the RO as 24, so that is what is used. Don't overthink the RO opening based on a window size - this is just a plate layout exercise. The window we used for this series of exercises actually calls for an RO at 24
@@ConstructionEd Makes sense. I'm just used to windows called out as 2-0x4-0 as sash size. Certainly could be R.O. I'm REALLY enjoying these videos. Thanks for them!
If you go to tradeskillsu.online/course/ you can filter the courses by Public courses. If you click on them to enroll the price should be shown. They are about 20 bucks USD or less
If you are using 2x6s how is your corner going to work with just the one 2x4? 1 1/2 plus the 3 1/2in would get you to 5inch so it would be hidden by the next 2x6 wall where your corner meets
The plates in this lesson are 2x4 not 2x6. The T wall connection is a 2x6 but that is expecting a 2x4 wall to connect in to it. The corner connections are also expecting the butt walls to be 2x4. If you are building a 2x6 wall, the process is the same, just change to 2x6 plates and framing members. Although you will have to make your T wall connection with a 2x8 or use ladder blocking.
@@ConstructionEd Can you explain why the T wall connector is the 2x6 vs a 2x4 when using 2x4 framing members. And why you would use a 2x8 when using 2x6 framing members? Why the extra 2"? Thanks!
@@msviolinnut the extra 2 inches are split 1 inch on both sides of the 2x4 wall that connects - and they are used to make corners for the drywall to connect to.
In this instance - the drawings call for a High Header - meaning the header is right up against the top plate. In that instance, we would recommend that the header itself be the framing member that gets marked for the cripples - typically by transferring the marks from the bottom plate to the header while framing.
Brian, if you are talking about an enrollment key for our courses on TradeSkillsU.online - you can skip that field. But the courses online do have a small fee associated with them for enrollment.
You've confused the issue with 16" on center... You are measuring from the end of the bottom plate, 16" from the edge of the bottom plate will be the edge of the stud, not the center. You don't need to subtract 3/4"
Thanks for the feedback, but I don't think you were following what we were saying. You are correct that when you measure from the end of the plate - and make a mark at 16'' that should be the center of the stud. When we say subtract 3/4'' and make a line - that line will be the first edge of the stud (assuming you are framing with 2x4's). We have found that it is easier when starting out to teach a student to mark the location of the edge of the board. Otherwise, the framing has to eyeball the center of the stud to land on the stud. While you may be experienced and not find that a problem - many of the High School students we used to train had trouble with that. Later they move to mark layout at the 16'' mark and center the stud. For that matter - when a framer gets more experienced - they are actually marking on the board edge - not the face. But thanks for challenging us - keep it up
@@ConstructionEd Now I'm confused even more. If you measure from the end of the bottom plate to 16", isn't that already the edge of the stud? I think that's what the OP was referring to. He is saying 16" from the edge of the plate is the edge of the next stud, not the center. In your video, you measured 16" from the edge and then subtracted another 3/4". So your edge is actually 3/4 closer to the end of the plate.
@@ragutz When you measure from the end of the plate to 16’’ and make a mark - that mark should be the center of the stud - not the edge. On center layout means a repeating pattern that expects the stud to straddle the layout mark. Our lessons recommend backing up by ¾ inch then make a mark (for a 2x4 stud) so it is easier to align the stud, for a beginner it is often hard to eyeball the center of a stud.
@ragutz @oneout72 He is not wrong! The reason for what he did is for sheathing. You can watch his video for "A lesson about Wall Sheathing in Residential Construction". The shealthing starts from the end of the wall, therefore the distance from the end stuff to the first common stud should be 3/4" shorter. Otherwise, you will not be able to reach the center of the common stud for nailing the plywood.
that is half the width of the 2x4. The framing members should be centered on the mark - by subtracting 3/4 the mark will then fall on the edge of the 2x4. The alterative is to mark at the 16 inch and then place your stud to straddle the line
This tutorial is poor. I am a licensed contractor in California for 43 years. He did not explain basic concepts clearly , his procedure was poor and would not work for production framing
When making a teaching video, , edit out your mistakes . Your camera angle does not allow the student to see clearly what you are marking. You need an overhead camera to show exactly what you are doing.
Gary, Thanks for the comment. We actually talked about resetting and editing out the mistake, but in this case we elected to keep it in show that we all make mistakes. And since it was minor and did not alter the lesson we kept it in. We have debated about an overhead to provide a POV but I am not a fan of them - for better or worse our model is to have the learner's perspective to be as if in a classroom. The main audience for our lessons is for teacher resources - a video is only one small part of it. We just provide access to the video lessons on RU-vid as a way to give back - but they were never made with RU-vid in mind.
This is good information. However, if you are going to teach from an upside down perspective, then everything should have been done in that manner including your center line. Your intent was great. Execution, needs more rehearsals before going live.
I don't understand why you don't explain the reason that "on center measurements should be for studs in the interior of the wall only" and the first stud measured 16" from its center to the edge. Teaching not only need to tell student about "how", but more importantly tell them "why".
I don't really understand your statement about OC being for inside vs outside - walls need to be sheathed on the outside and thus needing a consistent layout pattern. Please explain.
@@ConstructionEd I did not comment about the OC being for inside vs outside. I only quoted what you have said when you replied to the comments. You have at least two people leaving comments saying that you were wrong because " In your video, you measured 16" from the edge and then subtracted another 3/4. So your edge is actually 3/4 closer to the end of the plate." You do have a very good reason to do that because of the need to do sheathing. If you do it like these two people suggested,you will not be able to nail the first plywood from the end of the wall correctly. You should have explain this reason to them, but you did not. You only said, "on center measurements should be for studs in the interior of the wall only". I believe that did not help those don't understand why you did your way. Your teaching and the video is very good. I just want to give you a little feedback that if you can provide students the reasons of doing thing certain way, especially when it is clear that they don't understand or agreem with you.
@@davidh2049 I went and looked at the chain of comments and now I see what you were referring to. I have to be honest, I am not sure why that comment is there - Not sure what the reasoning for that comment is - as it is not correct. I will remove it to not add more confusion. I appreciate you calling that out - I was confused because your comment was not in that same thread
What a horrible video, yo made the RO of the window the exact opening of the window, 24x36 is a common window size spec...but a real window...in the REAL world is often skewed, tweeked, not plumb or square, especially with builder grade windows...if someone makes the RO the exact size of the window, they will have no room to shim, and no room to foam. The window wont fit! and they wont be able to them MAKE the window square/plumb. This is a video made for a classroom "teaching" what isnt done in the real world. Might get away with that using high end windows that are build very well, but for avg joe windows, they are gonna be in trouble if they make the RO the exact size of the door or window.
Sorry that you found the video horrible- Please note that these videos are intended to be used in conjunction with our instructional resources that do call out that an RO needs to be oversized. We just thought someone in the RU-vid universe could benefit from a free resource....apparently, that is not you. You can watch our Window series if want - but since this video was "horrible" maybe it is best if you don't, I would hate to run the risk of offending your senses again. Our goals when teaching the complete process are to step a learner through the process - at this point, the student is just learning the placement of framing elements - along with their teacher to support the student. Of course, someone with your experience would not be taking this lesson.
@@willbass2869 Please expand on what you are wanting a solution for. Glad to debate a well-articulated argument, not just a blanket statement that you are wrong
Is it always thru walls on the oposite side.or when conekt but to thru wall.that but must stay but or can other side been thru.if you understand me.i am from serbia and i am interested to start building like this hause.we built out conkrete.sorry for bad english.thanks
When two walls connect in a corner, one will be a thru wall and one will be a butt wall. Sorry I could not follow your English that well so I may not have answered what you are asking. If not, maybe try google translate and repost what you are asking.
@@Ivan-mf7lc Sorry Ivan, Opposite walls are not ALWAYS thru walls - but they often are. There is no defined rules on what walls have to be Butt and what has to be Thru - it is often up to the framer to use their judgment.
