Very thorough and easy to understand. When you were explaining the look of the edge with the two twisted yarns (toward the end of the video at about 11:24), I would have really liked to see a closeup of what that looks like. But that was outside your control, and all-in-all this is a great tutorial.
I just made a scrubbie/pot holder out of Dishie to practice the technique since I just purchased the yarn to make the Hue Shift Afghan and I'm so impressed with how fast it was!
Loved this beautifully explained great video ! want to have a go now!.. is there a video on join as you go as making loads then sewing together does not sound fun LOL
I have been knitting for 50 years, (which I can’t believe!) and have never seen anyone knit with the loose wool wrapped around the left hand. I always have used the right hand to pass the yarn round the needles. Are you left handed? Your way of knitting looks so much less effort than mine! I intend to try that
Question about picking up stitches to start the next mitered square... I have been searching for the best way and have found 2 methods. One is to pick up the bar between the garter rows which makes a slight ridge on the wrong side. The second method is picking up the “knot” on each row. Which way is best for this project? Thoughts?
Did you ever figure this out. Per the instructions, I did not cut the yarn when I finished the 1st square because the color is used in the 2nd square. I picked up 25 stitches across the top but I'm not clear about whether to knit as I pick up or pick them all up then knot back across. I wish there was a good tutorial for this whole project.
Just getting ready to start my blanket. In the written instructions it has the first CDD on row 3 of the square, in the video it is row 2, if using row count of written instructions, it says cast on row is row 1. So should I CDD in row 2 like the video or row 3 as per written instructions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This one is a bit different from how I learned it. I slip purlwise with yarn in front every first stitch and knit every last stitch from the back loop. It creates nice chain edges so it's easy to pick up later on. Then I purl the decrease stitch on every second row, instead of just knitting across. It makes these nice ridges in front and also makes me easier to just knit without using stitch markers or do the counting. I only do the math for the very first row.
I prefer the plain knitted edge, because to me it’s tighter and tidier (at least on this project I prefer this kind of selvedge). I find the little knots and bars pretty easy to use. (It’s personal choice rather than one way being better 😏) However, I love your suggestion of purling the center stitch on the return row, and I definitely want to give it a try to see how it looks. Thanks!
@@jvallas I randomly came back to this video, so I haven't noticed your comment until now. It probably got lost in the notification lol. - Have you tried the purl-method yet?
@@ninajowkar3871 No problem! Yes, I did give it a try to see how it looked “in real life” 😄. I like it. I don’t really knit a lot lately, but I’m keeping it in my arsenal for the future.
There is a 101 ways to make a mitered square. And probably just as many videos showing all the different ways. They all have the same outcome. A mitered square. You just have to find the one that clicks for you. Ask me how I know. 😊
I’m making the mitered square blanket (not with way your showing but it comes out the same) and the first square looks bigger than the rest but it’s my first attempt at it
I followed your pattern but using the stockinette style. The problem is that the finishing corner came out more pointed so it looked more like a kite shape instead of a square. What did I do wrong?
this comment is six months old, but in case anyone else is wondering, it's rather normal when knitting corner to corner like this for the last corner to be a bit stretched from the weight of the project. this is where blocking comes in. follow the blocking instructions for your selected yarn and it should flatten itself out.
@@sarahfargey9345 whilst the object is damp from washing, lay it flat on a surface that can hold pins in it, and carefully pin the object into the correct shape, and then let it dry that way for 24-48hrs. This is blocking; it works with cotton and wool and silk and other non-synthetic fibres. If one's using acrylic yarns, one can use an iron to press it, and 'kill it' (by slightly melting the fibres so that the object is locked into that shape).
It’s about your stitch pattern. Garter stitch has different dimensions than a stockinette stitch. (If you knit a square of stockinette and one of garter, same number of stitches and rows, I think you’ll see a marked difference.) Because of that, stockinette takes on a different shape and isn’t the best choice for mitered squares. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen a mitered square blanket done in stockinette, but I’m not sure what they did to compensate.
I have a question about the start of pattern. In the video, after the cast on, you knit the next row with a decrease stitch. I downloaded this pattern from the knitpicks website and the instructions say to knit row after cast on. So my question is after the cast on, do i knit the next row with or without a decrease stitch? Will this make a difference?
Always follow the pattern! Sorry about that, it does look like Jenny goofed and started with a decrease row instead of a knit row. It should only make a slight difference as long as you do every square the same, but for consistency's sake you are better off referring to the pattern.
In the pattern, they tell you to not exceed 6” tails, because the amount of yarn is figured pretty closely, and you could risk running out of yarn if you leave tails that are too long.
Sarah Fargey you cast on 49 stitches. She says there should be 24 stitches on either side of the center stitch so that you know it’s middle and not offset. When I knit mitered squares, I put a solid markers on my needle around the three middle stitches and move them accordingly as I knit. It’s an easier for me visually while I’m knitting.
If you want to use the same yarn and needle size, all you need to do is cast on fewer stitches. Just be sure to lower the number of stitches by 2 at a time (47, 45, etc). Because the cast on ends up forming two edges, you need to decrease your starting count by 2s so that you are creating one less stitch *per edge*. Mark your middle stitch with an equal number of stitches on either side and follow the instructions. Hope that helps!
Sorry for not responding sooner! Your stitch count for each square needs to be odd, so you can have one stitch for the central decreases and an equal amount on either side.
You might mention that this isn’t the Hue Shift Afghan tutorial because on Row 2 you want to knit back before you begin the metered square and and the CDD stitch.
For those who are having trouble picking up stitches to connect your squares. I found this video really helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-whvkm9f7Vqk.html
Hello Athena, according to our website a Garter stitch is used to attach the squares you can see a video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P1myty2SefE.html
