It was the most awesome set of trips of all time. I loved getting to spend time with all the guys, working with all of you, and flying that awesome course. I'm looking forward to all sorts of fun in future races out there.
Yeah Wes! It was a blast. Someday, I will do a race that I don't have a ton of work (and performance stress) going into and actually just sit, race, and enjoy. But for now, I love doing projects like this and I will continue to do them.
Everybody I've ever personally met in the FliteTest and TinyWhoop communities have been so friendly and helpful. Thanks to everybody who goes to a little bit of effort paying it forward and inspiring others to do the same!
Pop rivets would shatter the Palruf material. They needed to be larger. I'm looking at doing a steel locking grommet approach to allow it to be taken apart and made more portable. The one we built at FTHQ was a permanent install though. Others are looking for something more portable.
@@ulaB I have a crazy big bag of those at home. It was cheaper to buy a bag for "all vehicles" versus 10 of the ones I actually needed. I will try that out. Thanks for the suggestion!
I have a UR65 and an induction I have yet to bind correctly...I hope these will be at FF 2020 as I also hope to be there. Look very cool/fun Double thumbs up
I've been looking for this video. I didn't realize you had yet to make it when I started looking! It was really cool to see the use of the mirror film. I swear I thought I'd come up with an idea nobody had thought of yet, and there you go even telling me what percentage tint to get. It was also handy to have it confirmed that wally world dorm mirrors are the least expensive source for mirrors. You Flite Test guys should have Jesse over for play dates more often! Either that or Jesse's channel needs more "Here's how you build cool gates & other LED art for whoop tracks". 😉 Oh, can anyone tell me if I'd have to dive into programming some microprocessor LED "driver" myself, or if there's something relatively canned available that I can connect LED strips to, that does a starfield type pattern or at least makes it possible to program one without you having to build the control computer from scratch? Any leads on where to start with getting a strip of LEDs to do that type of pattern would be greatly appreciated! Keep on Whoopin' and Happy flying everyone. Loved what Jesse said about the community! 😁👍
Yeah. We asked him "Are you sure?" Then, after he had finished all the bolts, we realized that we had set him up under the huge ship hanging from the ceiling and couldn't get him out. We had to shuffle a few feet over to lift it up.
The video was made because Flite Test had us out there in November and December 2019 for the race coming up at Christmas. Lots of work went into all of these features, including the 2 infinity cubes that aren't shown in this video.
ive had a look at the guide for these and have one suggestion, don run the Arduino nano on 5v. While the nano 'can' run on a 5v source, its built in regulator results in loss that drops the voltage below 5v and can result in it being unstable. you should run the nano at 6v or above to avoid the loss from the regulator and it can handle up to 20v.
The regulator in the NANO is limited to 800 mA max and uses 50mA itself. A single string of these WS2812b LEDs can pull as much as 52mA per LED. We have 147 LEDs in a single string on this puppy. If you displayed full white, it could pull as much as 7.6A per string. This pattern pulls nowhere near that, but it is well over 1A per string. I've "accidentally" left a NANO using Vin regulated power on a 150 LED string and it fried the regulator.
@@oufannco what are you banging on about? I never said anything about powering the leds from the nano, you should never power things from them and should always use an external power source, I was talking about powering the nano itself if you actually bother to read it properly.