Let's Build The Fuselage! RC F-16 - Part 7 

Thanks Ramy!

I was looking for a comment where someone said how this reminded them of how Ramy RC does things, but here you are yourself!

I am your subscriber,,, Ramy ... Love from Assam,India 🇮🇳🇮🇳👍👍🥳🎉🎉 May Allah bless you

Thank you!

Thank you so much!

Thank you so much!

Thanks Greg! I appreciate you!

Thank you!

Thank you! As I'll note in the next video I think that's the last time I'll be cutting out parts by hand like that lol. I'll almost certainly go laser cut for cutting plywood parts as it's extremely time consuming to do by hand.

@@3DParadigmDesign it is indeed! Nothing wrong with using tools to minimize such work if it's not enjoyable.

I've been using West System 406 colloidal silica and tried this for some of the remaining fuselage skins and it worked perfect 👌Will show the results in the next video! Thanks!

What do you mean by a 2k coat?

@@3DParadigmDesign two components coat. Normally poliuretane based. It is used in the automotive industry as finish coat for the car’s paint. You can even use a 2k paint. You get a super clear and strong finish, you can polish it to mirrors shiny. Then apply a couple of layers of wax and ready to mold.

Cgtrader.com is one place!

I use Fusion 360 for all the CAD modeling and making STL files out of the jig models. Then I import the STL files into Ultimaker CURA to slice. Then to the 3D printer.

@@3DParadigmDesign Thanks, how hard is it to get your design into the cad program? Getting the molds to fit the plane design I would think is hard. Very nice work.Thanks again.

I think it's totally doable in many different ways. You can make a fully 3D printed version of the plane if you like a CAD modeling challenge, or you can go with a similar approach to my F-16 where you make molds for composite layups, or you can do all foam sculpting/carving/hot wire cutting. Really so many ways to replicate the plane.

Do you wipe the dried PVA rag over the brushed mold?

Hi there, they are all 3D printed molds! I have a video all about them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eH55p1k6gYg.html

Thanks! I print them with 2 perimeters and about 5% infill so they are efficient with material. If I were to make it physically hollow with a hole going through it may actually use more material because then there would be about 2x extra perimeter distance that's it's printing walls for.

I considered using them but determined they weren't needed. The spacing between frames is so small that the skin itself doesn't need them for stiffness. The fuselage is actually plenty stiff. There's internal structure that helps with its bending. Like the two support beams for the battery and two longerons between the main landing gear and horizontal stabilizer frames. Also, the inner EDF ducting through the frames provides an incredible amount of stiffness. The fuselage is a double walled tube there essentially.

Hi. I have one video on 3D printed molds: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eH55p1k6gYg.html

Thanks for the advice!

Yeah I was going to mention that, dilute it with water I think will help, airbrush it or also use a spray cleaner bottle

Well Steve, I have an inexpensive paint spray gun that I use, I set the compressor regulator for 30 PSI. The only time I dilute the PVA is when spraying, the PVA seems to develop spider webs that float. Then the water helps eliminate that issue as PVA is actually drying too quickly. I tried the spray cleaner bottle method but it applied to much and was inconsistent in it’s coverage. The airbrush works, but it doesn’t really work on big moulds. I take it you are in the USA, if so, go to your local Harbor Freight Tool store, they have inexpensive small spray guns for under $30.00 They work really well for this.

Woh I didn't know I had control over the playlist order 😂! Thanks for the feedback, just fixed it!

I based the size off a 70mm EDF. It works out to be about 1 : 13 scale. I did my best to make it scale. I modeled the F-16 based on a 3-view drawing.

@@3DParadigmDesign i got a hight poly 3D model very realistic. but i don't know how to convert it from LOD files to STL file. Very nice job! i would like to do one for me with the Block 20

It took about 4kg of filament!

Thank you! I use West System 105 epoxy resin + 205 hardener.

I'm using a rotary cutter from Fiskars. OLFA also makes a similar tool. It's nice using this tool instead of scissors because it doesn't push the fibers and mess up the weave. But it's important to have a smooth flat surface to cut on or else the rotary cutter will miss some fibers.

The molds are made of PLA plastic made on my 3D printer. Use mold release wax and/or PVA release agent to prevent the parts from sticking.

I am considering it!

@@3DParadigmDesign I would be forever grateful! Your video and Ramy Rc have inspired me to try to expand my love of the rc hobby to this next level. Learning Fusion 360 from scratch is a challenge to say the least. Look forward to your consideration. And of course Great Work on your project. Look forward to the next installment.

I use an Ender 3 Pro, Cura for slicing, and Fusion 360 for the CAD model

Epoxy: I use West System 105 resin + 205 hardener PVA: FiberGlast #13 PVA release film Wax: Turtle Wax automotive wax. There exists other waxes that are more specifically for mold release. You might be better off using those. But I've had good results with the car wax. I'm using just 1 ply of 6oz fiberglass for the skins.

Thanks

Currently not, sorry!

It's looking amazing. I'm working on finishing the fuselage - almost there!

@@3DParadigmDesign what power system it will use？

6oz/sqyd (200 gsm) I'm using 1 ply (layer).

@@3DParadigmDesign THANK YOU PARTNER FOR ANSWERING HUGS HAPPY NATAN AND NEW YEAR.

Using 200gsm

@@3DParadigmDesign thanks

I started the model by importing a 3 view of an F16 (side view, top view, front view) and some cross-sections of the fuselage. Then I made many sketches at different station values and lofted them to make the fuselage. Hard to go into too much detail here. After the build's complete I may make a video that highlights how I modeled it.

@@3DParadigmDesign how did you decide on how far apart to space the ribs?

@@3DParadigmDesign Thank you VERY much btw. I'm trying to make a SAAB 21 in f360.

I sort of guessed based on intuition. I knew the skin was going to be pretty thin (I only used 1 ply) so I knew the ribs and frames had to be pretty close together. Also, anywhere that there's curvature in the skin helps a lot to keep it stiff. Flatter parts like the wings and tails are a bit less stiff. But the 1.5 inch spacing seems to be just enough.

I 3D printed it! I have another whole video dedicated to the 3D printed molds.

@@3DParadigmDesign is there any other easy way? I'm going to make Cessna 172 . I wS thinking how about if i first build a model then use it as molding by fiberglass. I m not sure if this is a good technique

@@Nonenone-dd6xo that's actually a pretty common technique! It's not easy but making molds is never easy unless you have a 3D computer model and a machine to make the molds for you.

I just wanted to make them by hand for the challenge...but after I started I soon realized it was way too much work lol. But I didn't want to place a new order for laser cut parts so just finished them by hand.

I designed them in fusion 360 and then 3D printed them. I have a whole video on them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eH55p1k6gYg.html

@@3DParadigmDesign alright so you've designed F-16 with Fusion 360, right? not Autodesk/Solidwork?

That's right!

@@3DParadigmDesign Thanks mate. I'll look for it

Nope, would have been so handy though!

@@3DParadigmDesign I keep my eye on some of the lower wattage imports. Haven't pulled the trigger on one yet.

:) it's in the works! Target is January.

I can't wait! I'm working hard to get the fuselage finished for the next video!

:) it was my first time making molds for epoxy+fiberglass and I wanted to try and use materials I already had at home.

I wanted to use wood as much as possible for internal structure for 2 main reasons. First birch plywood is heavy but it is still lighter than HIPS or PLA plastic. I need to keep weight as light as possible for this build. Second is thermal expansion. I was afraid of making some internal structure out of plastic as it can expand relatively a lot compared to wood. I didn't want the plane deforming when it gets warm.