*Found this through a RU-vid video **enjoyable.fishing** recommend does exactly what its meant to do. Very durable and no hang-ups at all surprisingly*
Love your vids, been waiting for this one for a long time ever since you brought it up in a video a long time ago. Super cool! I said I would love to see you try a pike or muskie pattern in the last vid and I think this would be the perfect plastic for that. And as always, have fun playing with glitter in your garage, you do it better than anyone.😊
@@fishingwithtidwell8137 yep they use a rubber elastomer..they can purchase it in quantities to keep economy of scale low..still a much more expensive material.
To cool! Also one of the things I appreciate about your videos Chris is the fact that you don't cut out the issues or problems one might also have with this great hobby. You always share the good and the bad unlike some other RU-vidr's out there that I've seen. I for one especially appreciate that. Basically I have learned allot from your experiences both good and bad. Keep the awesome videos coming... I'll definitely keep watching sir.
Adding pigment etc to the "B" part then mixing with the "A" gives generally better results. I would also recommend using a release made to release silicone from silicone. A vacuum system removes bubbles. Many videos are available on line BITY mold supply has many including using powders brushed dry into molds.
In what way are the results better when adding pigment to one half as opposed to both halves? I actually did not need my vacuum chamber for bubbles, I mixed slowly and did not see any micro bubbles thankfully. Very happy with the results I got from this stuff considering my first time.
Smooth On is a bit slow.I tend to use Polytek products at work because of that.(I am in the film business) In the summer and when it is hot mixing colors into "B" ( a habit from working with urethanes) gives more time for complete mixing, before cure starts. Usually about 2 minutes of mixing. Smooth On is more readily available and their 1:1 ratios make it easier for those starting out. There are many cool things resins do now. some are made to expand or contract so you can shrink or upsize a previous piece etc.. explore and have fun
Also I watched your "got a new vacuum Pump" video. Silicones will expand to a bit over 2x original volume before collapsing. be aware. since there is no heat with them the quart mixing cups sold at auto paint stores and some Home Depots work great for measuring and they are nonstick without release.
Very interesting video Teach. I remember Salmon fishing in the Pacific Ocean with my dad in the 50's and 60's. We used Herring as bait. These would have been a great addition to our tackle boxes. I don't remember ever being able to use a herring twice. lol! You are the best..
@@WorldsWorstFishing Some of the greatest times of my life. We started when I was nine years old. 12 ft homemade plywood boat and I believe it was a 8 horse Mercury outboard. Had to have balls to do that! lol
Hyper tough swim baits. These look incredible! Was wondering what you thought of a rattlesnake color? Would be cool as senko, trick, etc. worms and craws.
This looks so awesome! I've been wanting to make an artificial life-like frog project for a while (like a little robot of sort, either powered by a bunch of batteryless mechanisms like a perpetual motion water fountain or stuff like that or making it an actual life-like frog robot powered by a solar panel, I'm not entirely sure yet) and I think this stuff might be the perfect stuff for the skin! (As well as the fact I found the perfect mold making stuff for the skin) and the fact it doesn't have to be heated up makes it better and less likely the plastic thumbtacks in the eye sockets of my frog skin mold would melt. Also the durability makes it less likely that if I just added all the hollow spaces to the current mold itself instead of making a mold for making the hollow spaces with playdoh followed by disolving the playdoh (so only one mold is needed entirely) that the skin wouldn't tear if I were to pull it out of all these tight spaces. Just one question... Can I use alcohol ink as coloring (thus, allowing me to save money on not buying plastisol specific coloring and just use the coloring I already have)? Or will it blow up like it would if I were to use plastisol? Would it also be okay to apply worm oil to this stuff so I can mimic a realistic feel in the artificial life-like frog's skin? (To be fair, you might not know since this was your first time using it 3 years ago, but maybe you would know now?) Thank you for uploading this and also linking dragon skin fx pro on your pinned comment so I can get this next month, is is awesome to know about!
You don’t need to treat silicone like the plastisol. You do not need release agents in anything metal, glass, most plastics. You will have problems if you overspray the release. You can get silicone that will be inhibited from curing. Also there is no shrinkage like plastisol, so you do not need to add the extra for shrinking during cooling. The main t8me you need release agent, is if you pour silicone into silicone. They will usually weld together. I hope the silicones work well for you.
Great video. I used to fish the Strike King elastic baits their jerk baits had good action and where literally indestructible. I went up north to fish and we used Ned rigs with Z-Man baits.
All of the items used, to make those awesome lures. Where can I purchase? Molds and injectors, as well. Thanks in advance. By the way, awesome video!!!
hey mate, that looks like a nice material ... but it's very expensive. Do you have any idea about some other material that it's tougher than the "normal" plastisol? I wanna do some soft crankbaits and I would like to use something tougher than plastisol. thanks mate and keep up with your channel ... some great content in here. cheers ...
You should shoot some tubes with that stuff. I’ve always wished my tubes were a little less vulnerable to ripping especially when pitching in heavy cover.
I don't know if this is too much to ask for but can you use that zeman type stuff and get a metric mold and put it in thereand wallop please send it like a RU-vidr if you don't want to fish with it but like if you can fish with it that's amazing but like if you can like ask fishing with Norm or somebody one of your friends to fish with it
Hello, your content is very cool, congratulations! I'm from Brazil and I also make soft baits. Please can you tell me what material you used to make these baits? Thx 😉
I've always wondered if you need to flavor them when you make them yourself? Every time i but a pack of plastics its always coated with something and smells funny. Can you talk about that in a video?
That material might be useful for making copies for more molds. You could probably use the 3 you made to make a bunch more molds then use the molds for regular materials.
Cool part about this even at the cost is. You can custom hand paint these bad boys as well ! Then it can be skinned supposedly, protects the painting. I’ve seen it done on special effects videos
Dragon skin is also often used by adult toy companies ;) Great basic tutorial on it. but you could of probably gotten away with much cheaper silicone for fishing lures. And you can probably just use your regular pigments, you dont necassarily need to buy silicone specific pigments.
The concern was mixing dinp plasticizer base pigments with silicone..I'll definitely try it, but wanted to play it safe on camera and show people a more controlled way of using the dragon skin.
what u need is a vibration table they use them for candy but It would def work for this as well to make sure the silicon or whatever ur using gets into those cracks an crevices an would be a lot easier an baits will come out better
what is the exact name of the glitter color for the color of the day icouldnt hear what you said since no more captions im hearing impaired so it helps
@@hawkins3888 he does not say an exact color for the green just that it is small green flake and then he uses the .035 green flake which he says is the medium size. For the Black grape at the end I slowed the video down and it appears it is stock# 1x433c by the label on the container. Hope that helps and have a good day!!
@@WorldsWorstFishing thanks i enjoy your videos i havent started making anything yet as i have nothing right now just gathering all information so when i start i will know what im doing
how do think roof and gutter silicone would work although probably no runny enough for hand pour but if the nozzle was cut in the right spot could use a caulking gun to inject and paint and clear coat just a idea
Try a light GP top with a touch of green hilite (maybe add some black flake if you want some texture) and either straight red hilite for the belly or maybe add a touch of white pearl with the red hilite so the red isn't so intense. Just spit balling, but looking at pics of that color online, I think that should at least get you close to start
It's not just Zman who has these extremely stretchy baits. Look at the Moby softbaits from iron claw to 😉... Look unspectacular but is very good rubber
about 3 months ago I was assisting my daughter in making a project she was doing and ended up making some open pour stick baits with her leftovers. I never thought to actually fish them though.
What you saw in the opening shot runs $52 plus any shipping costs through their online store. Your local retailer might be different. Info is all available at www.smooth-on.com
Great video. The silicone stuff seems like it would have it's time and place in the bait world. As a crappie fisherman, I dont think that stuff would work for baits. It looked to firm aka no action under water. Now if you could find a balance between the two, the possibility would be endless.
