Handful of things so you don't waste time Don't reuse any gaskets ever. You are right though single ply ones suck. Try to find an oem MLS to replace. They aren't expensive I saw you have a new cylinder. Thank God that old one is probably all sorts of out of spec and ill bet has no cross hatching and grooves. But make sure you chek your ring gap. Its very easy just RU-vid it. And go slow. Can't add material but you can always take more away. Number three others already said it. Rods shouldn't move much. There should be specs in the manual for acceptable play. A little wobble doesn't matter. But it would suck to do all the work, start it up, and it has rod knock Number three, go to harbor freight grab their heated large ultra sonic cleaner and toss the carb in there. Use carb cleaner in the ports, and brass nozzle jets. If you can blow compressed air through the brass jets after. AND DO NOT GET ANY CARB CLEANER ON ANY RUBBER GASKETS SEALS OR ORINGS. they will swell become brittle and deteriorate. You'll need a float bowl gasket at a minimum. Finally, get a new air filter and spark plug. Go enjoy
I'm thinking of ring gaps and piston orientation, front and rear to some pistons or the valves will hit. Looked like everything was loctite'd the way things snapped loose. Do a homemade valve job and new seals.
If it does have rod knock then the whole things gotta come out and theres a lot of work and money to get it back up and running. Might as well try what hes doing and if it does need a full rebuild then he can take it from there.
Wouldn't hurt to lap the valves. In older engines like this and not very high performance you can get away alot more with cheaper fixes. But certain things you can't. To check valves, flip the head upside down, spray a puddle of brake clean in the dish of the head with the valves closes. Of you don't leak any fluid, you're good to go! Which I thought I saw him do.... or I'm vaguely remembering a different video I saw on another channel haha
@@bumtracksNew true. Usually thats clearly illustrated in the literature though so as long as he goes step by step no big. It doesn't always explain ring gap though. Just the specs.
this is underrated content. More you tubers need to be like you and just try to work on their bikes. I know so many people that say "i have no clue what to do or how to do it" when its literally just unbolting and bolting back on. props to you for having that service manual
Reminds me of my full rebuild on my '71 SL350.. New Pistons, Rings, I honed the bores, New gaskets, seals, clutch, electronic ignition to replace the points.. I tore it down and rebuilt it and learned to ride it lol, my first bike.
Dude, you're gonna have such an intimate relationship with the DR now.. working on your own bike always increases the love! Sounds weird but you know what I mean👍👌👌
I believe that black gasket material you saw on the rocker cover is factory Suzuki Bond. I'm a Suzuki Marine tech. Maybe I'm mistaken but, You'll know upon reading reassemble in the manual. That's a zero tolerance surface. Thus the reason there's no gasket. Keep up the good effort. Watch your Damm knuckles!
To prevent knuckle busting always try and push your ratchet and use an open palm like you did when you broke the timing chain loose. Keep up the good work man. I’ve been rocking the OG “go ahead and take it easy hoodie” for like 3-4 years. Cheah! 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
Damn... I remember when you got this.. The very first bid I saw was when the old bowling alley burned on Highland by the CHP.. I believe you were at the mansion hill top when you saw the smoke? Good ol days.... Been with the Cheah!!! Squad since the Ah Real Good!! Ol days.
@@bakerXderek One of my favorite memories is when you and Arson drove in front of the pad on Marshall and my son motioned to "rev it" and you both did... That shit was dope bro!!
outstanding!!! looks like too much slop in that rod for my peace of mind, and probably what caused the damage to the piston and bore, pull the engine off the frame, split the case and go through the entire engine, new clutch plates and springs, new oem gaskets
I did a DR200 top end last year and it's an easy bike to work on. Don't worry about the mismatched bolts on the head studs that's normal, which ones go where should be visible in the service manual pictures. I think they're supposed to be diagonal? Also when you go to reassemble those tiny fasteners holding the cylinder on by the chain tensioner (the ones by the displacement number) be really careful. They have a very tiny torque spec and snap easy... or at least mine did. Make sure you reset the tensioner too.
Baker I'm so glad to see you doing this. I'm so glad to see you taking this project on and learning as its a great experience for your viewers and I'm proud of you that you are giving your channel and your bikes the time of day. Your an OG and your views may be down I still watch your videos on the reg. Keep up the hard work man and I hope to see your shit on that trending ASAP. Cheah!
I think the bike was running rich and built up so much carbon over time that a hard bit broke off and got caught in the rings causing the damage to the cylinder wall. New cylinder sleeve if they have them or head, new rings to be safe, but you could have gotten away with cleaning and polishing the piston, but why not replace it, not to expensive I wouldn't think. Doing a great job though Derek 👍
@@bakerXderek the play is possibly the shell bearing at the big end and crankshaft, but it could also be fine. It may have been engineered to have that play, but the piston should stop it moving side to side. It might be worth replacing the shell bearing to be sure. It should be an easy job to do, sump off, two nuts on the big end and lift the piston out, cover bearing in engine oil when reassembling.
Hey Derek. Hi from the UK. Throw in a new cam chain tensioner just for good measure my friend. Looked to be at its fullest adjustment. Anyway, enjoy the rebuild!! 😁
You should stick a Lectron carb on there while you have it all torn apart. If they have one for your bike you wouldn't have to worry about adjusting anything anymore.
Assembly lube is not for the piston!!! Use motor oil. You can end up with clogged piston rings. Assembly lube tends to just burn and get carbonated in the piston rings because it is so sicky. Check engine compression after a short heat cycle and 1000miles later if it goes up you are fine but if it drops you need to clean out the piston rings ore you will head into new problems.
Release the cam chain tension with the tensioner on the cylinder when you put it back together. Pop the middle 10mm on the tensioner and use a small flat screwdriver to release tension turning counter clockwise. Makes it possible to find cam timing with the crank upon reassembly a lot easier without marring the cam journals.
Sweet ,progress is fast bud ,you will have that up and running in no time ,just make sure you check the piston arm and bottom end for play ,great vid 👍
That rod wobble could be what scored up the cylinder wall to begin with. I would see about replacing the rod bearing or getting a whole new rod and crankshaft.
I'm going to second what Eric Miko posted about double checking how much that Rod is supposed to move. It look like way to much for my blood! Good Luck getting her breathing fire once more!
If you want to do a cheap big bore kit get a lt230 piston, sleeve, and head. You might have to shave the head though to up compression. There's more info on the interwebs. Or if you're lucky and can find an lt250s piston that would be your best bet. Cams for the 230 and 250 also work well with these motors.
You’re doing a great job! Is the connecting rod sliding on the crankshaft or is that actual wiggle? You want zero wiggle with the con-rod but some sliding room is ok. And the liquid gasket that was on the top cover was ok. Kawasaki switched over to That type of sealant over a gasket on crankcases a few years back. Anyways, keep up the great work. Can’t wait for the next video!!
May as well order a new cam chain tensioner as well. They like to stretch on these and eventually lose timing and make a terrible “ping-ping-ping” sound that is the chain slapping against the case. You can get a new adjustable one for pretty cheap. Might as well because you’re already committed this far.
Smash that hole with a torx bit 😏 She’ll come out real nice just make sure you find a bit slightly larger than the hole and hammer it in usually your last resort when you have something stripped like that. Also try using heat like a blowtorch on the dowel pin just a suggestion
I have a 97 dr350R, love it and i also have a DG muffler on it. stupid easy motors to work on compared to others, and bulletproof if ya keep oil in it. Good luck brotha, im sure youll get her to puuuuuur. Also, I have to check my rocker to valve lash often on her, not sure if your 200 is the same way but something to keep in mind.
wow its going pretty smooth for a newbie at rebuilds. don't ever Ever EVER reuse gaskets. true 1 ply gaskets suck but they'll still compress way more then a used one ever will. double check the piston is on the right way if its got an orientation, some don't. cant physically inspect anything so best guess is the ring slots wore out/failed/overheated and let one of the rings start twisting making them grind on the cylinder wall
Re: the engine case plug - drill out two holes on each side of the stripped area, then you can put a pair of bolts through to brace a prybar, then reef on it. Check out this video, same thing happened here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oVMvAWQKl-0.html
When you put that plug back in just tickle it with a little anti-seize compound and it won't get stuck like that. I like the Permatex brand myself. When you use it put the cap back on tight and store the bottle upside down. The shit will last forever. Just use a little! Just enough to coat the threads. Those are dissimilar metals that's why the seize up like that. Never ever ever reuse a head or cylinder gasket. It just ain't worth it. You DO NOT want to tear all that down again. Glad to see you wrenching on your shit. You're a smart guy you can do it. Take care.
I had a super clean one, probably the worst dirt bike I had. Was great on the road. My homie ate shit hard on it hitting the whoops lol bounced all over
you know you really should have done a home cylinder hone job on that jug and atleast checked the ring gap on those new rings its easy takes a few minutes but i wont break your ball too hard for being a newb i still commend you for doing this yourself it really is fun working on your own shit and learning in the process, keep it up BxD
I miss my ol 11' DR650SE . It was a great bike . But I love my 02 Fz1 . It's much better suited for where I ride considering the trails around here were all barbed wired and fenced off . Someone even set up barbwire across a powerline trail and the only thing that stopped me from being decapitated was the space between the fender and the headlight fairing stopping the barbwire from going over the headlight fairing . I hit at like 35mph and superman through the air and landed upside down on my neck . I was lucky I wasn't paralyzed.
i think your rod bearings are too small if you heard knocking its probely due to that you shouldnt be able to move the rod side to side text in rod knocking and rod clearce check if your in doubt of what im talking abouut
Pretty sure the connecting rod bearing is toast. If you reassemble and run it like that, it's going to destroy all of your new parts and hard work. I commented on your last vid that you may have spun a rod bearing. The rod bearing looks and works like a bushing. It's located on the crankshaft where the connecting rod clamps on. Google it or search RU-vid, you'll see what I'm talking about.
BEFORE YOU PUT THE TOP END ON!!! Grab the rod and move it up and down as well as side to side. Make sure it doesn't have a lot of play or is clanking around. That'll indicate a bad bottom end bearing.
No chance, that was a totally normal colour for the valves. Looks like a perfect tan. From what i saw of the piston it didnt show the marks of heat damage, just skirt scoring. Id say just worn out. I set my one up with a wideband and the valves look about the same set up to run slightly rich
