Link to Single Stage "Gun Metal" Paint www.ebay.com/i... ebay seller www.ebay.com/s... or visit www.allkandys.com Link to Kobalt Spray Gun www.lowes.com/...
My Aunt and uncle are the people that sell this paint. They are great people and sell great products. Support a great family that is much deserving and buy their products!!
@@AnsleyBuilt yes they are, they are about to move the business to wheaton to a much larger building that will suit their needs as well as a much nicer store front for customers to visit.
Hi max do they happen to have a website? I’m from North Carolina and would love to purchase some candy black cherry paint from them if they have that option
@@christiansalgado8584 they have a web site but everything I put a comment with anything close it gets deleted. I knowvyou can't post links to RU-vid but no matter what it gets deleted
Professional painter for 32 yrs, I give him alot of credit. I can remember how hard it was for me at the very beginning..... For an old truck it looks great, it's better than when he started. Nice job man, keep painting !!!!!!
Thank you, I appreciate your support! 🙏🏼 This was definitely a big project to tackle, especially going with a single stage metallic. It's easy for someone to ignore all the hard work and criticize when something doesnt come out as planned, but I also read thru comments and take advice from people that bring their experiences to the channel. Here's another project I did after this Silverado, if you could please take a look at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWDLyQhr4YQ.html I personally believe I did better just by reading a few helpful tips!
As a professional painter of 19 years I will support the above comment. Single stage is not an easy product, and being metallic it is even more challenging. For starters, you can't just stop and fix an error, you only get one shot. So indeed, you did a great job. My advice would be dividing the job into two parts: cab and bed. Second, maintain wet edge: imagine you are coloring truck with a marker but never take your hand off the paper. This will reduce dry shot areas. Overall- great job, man! You will only get better with each paint job👍
Hey James I made a comment about how much air pressure on the compressor someone needs to paint a vehicle, he never gave me a response maybe u can help me out
@@MarioMartinez-wh8qv That's a loaded question, but if compressor can really keep up and you are running a regulator on the gun the single stage I use I spray at 2.5 bar...... I spray just a touch higher as that is my preference..... Follow any tech sheets provided with material and use as a guide. After that, weather, experience can change those settings day to day to some degree. Size of parts etc. Hope this helps, good luck
@@MarioMartinez-wh8qv Mario, Feel free to contact me again for anymore help. If you are coming out of compressor with no regulation at the gun then you get whatever the compressor can give you.
Dude! I’ve been painting for 40 years and taught it at a skill center! Like you said it was a ranch truck. It great job for what it is. So many of the so called painters on RU-vid never use scotchbrite pads! Those are the best to prepare the entire truck. Doing the roof first is a great idea to do. Mixing both gallons is a great idea also. For what it is you did a great job!
What Scotchbrite sanding pad do you use to sand vehicle you right the videos see on RU-vid they don't most of them using Scothbrite pad the regular sandpaper scratches up the surface more I been trying to paint for almost two years but only some months out the year don't have the right heater for painting in winter. Last year I was starting to use scuff pads and bought scuff paste but was using circular pads with a orbital sander.
For a first time prep and paint, while using a DIY paint booth. Wow. For just a non-professional paint job, I say, job well done. I've been using Scotch-Brite Hand Pads by the case since they came out. Many other wet and dry sanding products have come out that I use too. So many options for the painter these days from their equipment to their paint. Not like the old days of the 50s and 60s when I was a teenager learning to paint my cars. I remember runs and orange peel and the hours of more sanding.
I’m 12 minutes in, and I paused to pay you a well-deserved compliment! I appreciate your thoroughness, your skill, and that you’re showing it all at regular speed. Your editing and choice of music make it almost therapeutic to watch! Thanks!!!
This is one of my favorite RU-vid channels. Videos are educational, not “over talked,” and motivating. I really like his shop and mostly his perspective on the different paints, sprayers and all the painting tips that make a DIY guy the courage to put some paint on his truck. Thanks dude ! Keep it up.
Never ever ever spray any metallic in single stage..huge mistake..it can not be buffed evenly..you absolutely van not colorsand single stage mettallic..
Wow! Not bad cleaning up an old work truck. I live near a desert so there are tons of old sun baked classic trucks for cheap. I've been drooling over the thought of buying one and painting it myself. Good video!
Where are you talking about?? I finally took a leap and started sanding an old camry, now there's no turning back. (My first time) I'm still looking for painting options. I want to do that with older vehicles too
Good job buddy, I paint semi trucks for a living and work with mostly single stage and quite a bit of single stage metallics. I noticed you start with a light coat but actually if you get a good solid coat on first, move onto your next panel and then come back to the last one with a dust coat to even out the modeling, that would keep things a little more even for you and would cut down on the dry spray of each panel. Just my opinion, you made it look good though.
When you have a dry spot just take a little of your reducer that you mixed your paint with and spray the dry area and it'll usually take away the dry look
For base clear I've found the best thing to do is turn your psi up about 10 psi and spray a little further back to dust your 3rd coat on, metallics will blend in a little better. Single stage the key is keep the metallics wet so they can move around, thinning out your 3rd coat will give the dusting effect also.
Also consistancy in how you spray, top to bottom or bottom to top can affect how a metallic looks. I always try and spray top to bottom, sometimes I screw up and do a little out of order, but catch the mistake on 3rd blending out coat. You learn allot everytime you paint something, and I'm def not an expert, each paint job has been a metallic, go figure.
I have sprayed lots of single stage metallic..... 1. first coat fast reducer single spray even coat at 10 to 12 inches 2. second coat single spray 10 to 12 inches A bit heavier. 3rd coat I go control coat 12 to 16 inches Slow reducer. fast moving even further away only almost (dusting the surface) More reducer in 3rd coat 4th coat if needed (stripes in your metallic.) light dust slow reducer even and fast. again just like 3rd. FYI singe stage metallic dont last nearly as long as clear coat metallic. But cheap option. Sometimes you can even use a clear over the singe stage to get more life out of it. but you need to wait sometimes an hour or so before you recoat with clear. almost fully catalyzed but just a bit finger print to touch.
For single stage mettalic.... last coat, cross coat it or apply a further back mist coat to uniform the metallic. Or... Just scrape up another $100 and just clearcoat.
24 years spraying cars and I'm getting tired of everyone assuming it's all just a youtube video away !! This guy would actually be an extremely good painter with a few small changes and some good advice.
We don't necessarily assume that. Some of us just have cars/trucks that aren't worth pouring the money into a pro's services. And some of us like doing things ourselves and learning. That being said, what's this guy missing as far as technique goes?
@@alexovercast3359 not meant to insult anyone or what they want to achieve from a diy sense. Anyone trying to learn something new and gain something from it is fine by me, I learn everyday. There just seems to be videos everywhere on RU-vid that are full of really bad advice, for example..the type of paint used in this video is absolute rubbish, my spray booth cost me 50 grand..because painting a car in your garage will poison the shit out of you. If you have to, do it outside on a dry day..better for the lungs !! As far as technique, learning to trigger the gun (releasing the trigger while still moving at the end of each pass and pressing again coming back) is something that will help control paint blending into itself while moving around. Flicking your wrist all over the place is what most do ! Good luck with your project 👍
@Jeff Spicoli I'm from Ireland, even if I wanted to spray this crap I couldn't ! At least 15 years since I've used it, it's illegal in Europe for bodyshops to use this because of the high levels of voc's. I don't miss it 😂
@Jeff Spicoli not just Ireland but all of Europe, every paint has some level of voc's but it has to be under a certain level to be used and sold, VOC compliant. Major paint manufacturers only produce compliant paints nowadays, anything like this single stage acrylic metallics would not be available to buy here now, it's nasty stuff.
Looks good my friend but one thing you don't wanna do is stop in the middle of a panel always go to the end it will keep you from getting light and dark spots. But for the most part it looks good man I like the color. I like to wet down the floor in the garage to keep any dust down. Good job brother nice truck
Way to go, I remember the dirt carport! I just did my first base, clear in the garage. Dark metallic, about to finish main body next weekend. Got to have the control coat! Good job again.
All the metallic’s I’ve paint I’ve always done base coat clear coat, comes out much better for me, but if your on a budget, this is another option, I’ve always used PPG products. Thanks for the video. Turned out great.
When someone stops spraying in the middle of a panel I always cringe. You should start at one end of the vehicle and walk sideways maintaining the same speed and distance from the panel. You start flow off the panel and move onto it, travel the full distance and stop flow off of the panel on the opposite side.
@gringo loco2 it's true that it's not as easy for beginners to walk the whole vehicle, but you should 100% be working up to it. The difference is consistency, I don't care how good you are at blending each pass, you will never be able blend where you end your pass to the rest of the pass because of the amount of fluid being released. Hard to explain in a comment on RU-vid but basically where you stop will be covered more. This is a huge problem for metallics since you'll end up with a line of metallics where you stop on the panel (same thing for pearls and other additives). This might not be something that the average person sees or cares about especially with cheap jobs like the one in this video.
@@greghercher2068 meh, collision painter for 13 years here. only reason youve gotta walk a vehicle is if its candy or single stage paint. no issues panel painting with metallics or pearls in bc cc if you know what your doing.
One thing I learned in school and In the body shops is bedsides and hoods especially you wanna go the whole length so front to back not leave any little strips or stop half way on the bedsides specially with metallics helps make the paint lay a lot flatter and cleaner in the end. But all in all it’s looking good man!
I'm a painter of 12 years I would have done the cab first and the bed the next day. Good work on single stage metallic. That can get ugly quick if you rush it. Trucks are a big job and it's tough to show the final coat fatigue when that wrist is hurting. Good job brother. Keep it up.
It looks great. Paint work is 90% prep work. Your prep work looked good, for $100 bucks you can't complain. My advice for anyone starting off painting try single stage. It's very forgiving any runs can easily be sanded down, and it's a great easy and cheap way to get a good finish, like I said, paint work is 90% prep work.
I bought some gunmetal gray Behr paint/primer-$43 a gallon at Home Depot and used a smooth weenie roller and painted my Prius, yours came out much better! Live and learn!
Just a helpful hint. When spraying single stage metallic you have to constantly be shaking the gun between swipes. The metallic settles in the bottom..l learned this the hard way.
I wish I was still teaching (i'm retired now) Vocational Education because if I was I would show your videos to my students. They are awesome and you are a true motivator!
I been a auto body Detailer and welder but never painted an been learning about HPLV spray guns. Priming and base coats, clear coats and this vide was cool to see how the paint is done vause as I Said I cut and buffed for years but now want to learn to paint and this video was cool to watch from start to finish (prime to painting) thanks for the upload Brother!
You need to lay that single stage alot heavier than you did. Don't be afraid to spray it heavy.. It's what gets you the mirror finish with single stage paint.
Get the sealed upside down cups for your gun. You can shake it every now and then while you spray. Helps keep the metallic even. Also if you put on heavy coats and your activator is slow the metallic will kind of settle and sag in the paint. But anyways good job man looks good.
The single stage paint looks awesome. I will try some from your eBay supplier. A few things I learned in a home shop with out a professional spray booth. The green body shop masking paper is good for priming but it will give off dust and primer particles on to your finish coat. It also gets cruddy from wet sanding. I always remasked over the green paper with the blue body shop paper (has a shiny /waxy face) before topcoat of paint. I preferred 3m 233+ masking tape. It bends nice, holds up to wet sanding and don't leave a sticky residue when removed. Keep up the great work and videos.
Many thanks! Definitely a big truck. Can you imagine, I did my crew cab step side in a much smaller makeshift shed on dirt floor.. 😬 but it turned out pretty great, if I do say so myself. 😅
Single stage metalic paint is ok you cant buff it out or polish it no matter how hard you try when i spray single stage metallic paints i mix in 3/4 of a gal of clear into the paint this will allow the paint to come out like glass and last for years i did a 71 Riviera back in 1996 and to this day 2021 it looks like it was painted two months ago
I did this also. Couple of things for my first paint, one it was way more work then I had anticipated, and two I made the mistake of only buying one gallon and I think the paint is a tiny bit too thin in places. Will definitely try it again another day on another car.
@@jasonboness3871 There are some really inexpensive base clear systems. Its very difficult to get even metallic distribution and good gloss at the same time with single stage.
Great job! One idea is to break down to two smaller jobs by removing bed and painting it separately. This would help keep dry areas from getting the overspray.
What a lot of people don't know is that candy paints are typically cheaper because most candy paints are lacquer based it's not an acrylic PPG it's gonna be a lacquer based paint and because they meet all requirements you could actually paint a car for a lot less money
Also maintaining the same air pressure throughout the entire is important with metallics and maintaining the same distance off the surface . Just my 2 cents .
Bought a 2015 F150 for $1700 and may try to paint it after some practice. I sweat alot so keeping that off the surface is my main concern. I'm going to attempt to paint the new bumper, grill and headlight bezels first.
Technically I don't think you are. But this is his method. He makes full passes at the end after he get a light coat. But it would be no different than blending a repair on a vehicle I would think.
I concur with this statement but i believe as lonh as you overlap the paint correctly and do full passes on the last coat it should be fine ..but then thats just my opinion
I've seen people paint trucks before. They always start on the inside of the bed walls then roof and back their way out of the bed. And then split the truck in half and paint from front of bed to the back in one motion. And same from the front to the back of the cab.
The common usage for the word dope where I come from stems from the type of pharmaceuticals one my find around a corner or cleaners. Clean = pure. So when I say dope quality. I mean the quality of work he produces is clean enough for someone like me to call it dope. Im sorry this offended you. God bless.
I’ll tell you a little secret to make that single stage pop a little bit better, add a gun cup 15-20oz of mixed Clearcoat per gallon. It makes it shine and spray better.
Amazing man! I barely learning this painting stuff I bought a truck had a bad paint job so I've been watching a lot of RU-vid lately but your video is by furthest the best ! Love your work man! Wish you could paint my truck brother lol !
I'm surprised you didn't spray the entire length of the bed/doors to avoid metallic build-up. Did you notice any difference in the paint because of this?
The technique he mentioned using works well, wet the panel then spray a bit further back with a dusting while wet to evenly distribute the metallic(a) particles.
You did a very good job, but please let me say that you need to flick the paint out at the end of your stroke. You are stopping dead at the end of your stroke. That causes a vertical line. That is why you have the lines that you called "dry spots". Flick the paint out and that will not happen. I respect you for getting out there and getting it done! Keep it up bro!
Nice job man,look's pretty clean,i wouldn't worry about the dry area's,a quick nip and polish will sort them out,i'd much rather see a few dry areas then applying it too wet and having runs,keep up the good work,looking forward to your next budget job.
Sorry the link to the kobalt gun i cant see it.Maybe because I'm in El Salvador. Awesome job.Wish i had a spray gun and that paint to make some money here
