Awesome ,Thank you my brother for being with us on this project, you escaped me this time from grabbing the paint gun, but next time we're going to spray paint both together, thank you for the support and being there when I've called you, we had a great time 😎👍
I did single stage and had fish eyes EVRYWHERE. But the guy was a seasoned fisherman, so I told him I added the fish eyes to honor his fishing passion. He was thrilled, and all of his fishing buddies were jealous.
This is why we do what we do. Painters love their craft but nothing tops seeing the reaction of someone getting their pride and joy back after you made it amazing.
I used the Nason single stage on my mom’s Miata using this introduction first coat and then two heavy coats after and three years later and it still looks great!
@@thebeardsgarage thanks...have a 944 I need painted...just had the bumpers and valance painted with Nadon Single Stage so trying to figure how much paint I will need.
@@papasmurf986under $400 if you buy sandpaper,tape , paper , thinner,paint,clear coat and everything else needed to do the job. eBay has great deals for this paint and clear personal the sherwin-Williams finish 1 is a much better clear coat has a better shine and will last longer too.
I really like the slower pace presentation of your current videos and over the last little bit. It's much easier for me to follow as a very inexperienced painter
This is definitely the smarter way to do single stage for max gloss. My most recent job the third coat of single stage is where I got to much build up and runs. Which are easy to cut and buff out ESPECIALLY on single stage solid color. But these guys definitely did a great job! nason products are also another one of the best DIY friendly budget paints that give a professional finish.
I've been painting for more than 55 years, seen it all, done it all, but this is a slick paint job. I just finished a 1958 cameo driver door and it came out slick as glass with no die back. Ful thane II sky blue. keep up the good work!
Hello, watcher from across the pond here. After binge watching hundreds of hours of videos, many of which on this channel. Just wanted to say thanks for the content. Recently did my first paint job using a LVLP a610 and a small compressor, this was on a bare metal tubular chassis using 2k epoxy primer followed by 2k single stage metallic but I will go on to paint the car itself once it's built. Still lots for me to learn but this type of content has been invaluable to getting the confidence to have a try so thanks, keep up the good work!
Fantastic episode.. Really appreciate the single stage presentation.. This seems like the best first time DIY paint and is what I hope to use soon for my restoration project.. Brian you are a phenomenal explainer of the process and a great teacher of the technique. TX
The beauty with single stage paint is you can re-coat to cover imperfections. The disadvantage to single stage (without a coat of clear) it is difficult to do a blend in case of body damage. Also with metallics there is a trade off between the flake laying down right and orange peel. As usual Brian, well done!😎
Also they say you shouldn’t buff/polish metallic single stage. With metallics I notice that they tend to mottle very much, especially the larger/coarser flakes
As said, the blending solvent is a great tool. They work. Blend into the next panel with an elongated S diagonal pattern. For all over metalics, get plenty of wet EVEN paint (three medium wet coats) coverage on the car with slow reducer, let dry to the touch of the tape. Then reduce the paint another 30% and spray it with a fast arm stroke from 50% farther away in random directions. Do this "just" before you can touch the paint on the tape. Don't get carried away with this last drop coat or it will go dull in a year. All I do is blends for local dealers and metalic single stage all overs for local body shops. But then, I'm still using 40-year-old Binks 7 and Devilbiss guns, so.
@@user-mp8er1ds9x "Old Timers" could blend single stage well. Every time I did I would get solvent droplets all over the place. My Willys Coupe I is wearing 30 yr old Centari enamel on it and everytime I do a blend I have to let it sit a yr or so before buffing it or I get a dark line on the edge of my blend. Then again the great outdoors is my spray booth! 😆
Ive sprayed single stage for over 12 years and used all the top guns and my 2 favorite guns are the lph400 and teknas. It'll take you a little bit to get used to them but they are fun (imo). Only thing I do differently from the video is how long I wait to apply clear. I do wait 15-30 min depending on the weather or thinners used. I've had reactions with the clear and paint if I go in there right afterwards. good luck with the new job
@@EJ1Jamesjust an fyi, the lph silver cap is pretty much general purpose but in my opinion works best with clear and single stage, you can't go wrong with the orange cap either in my opinion the fan that one produces is a bit more comfortable to work with.
@Whitening98 hello I wanted to know witch clear coat do prefer in aerosol for Single stage small project steel metal I'm finishing touches my too coat has been drying for over week, witch grit sandpaper do recommend non abrasive to softly knock down just fir clear to bite in to top coat.
I miss Dupont Centari acrylic enamel single stage and a Binks #7 spray gun layed down metalic colors well, the Centari hardner brought out tbe gloss and added durability. That truck in the video came out great with that Nason single stage paint.
yes, Centari rocked and would lay nice and flat without all the orange peel of these urethane paints. Urethane is made to match factory and always shrinks back , if you want it flat you need to sand and polish it.
had my 71 superb sprayed about three years ago in a downdraft with Dupont Centari 99a. no cut, no buff. It's stunning paint. Still putting it back together. lol
Well done Brian. First time I did a base/clear job my first thought was this is easy………….that was after many years of essentially shooting single stage (urethanes, enamels, lacquer…..)
Big truck like this is a true project. There is a reason single stage paint is so much better. I can’t help myself though and go for at least 3 coats of clear because I love that forever depth to the finish.
Adding clear is a bonus step. Don't be confused about it. If you can spray clearcoat you can spray Solid Color single stage. I'm not too bright so the first full paint job I ever did was metallic single stage acrylic enamel. 😂I did have to respray a few panels, but i worked thru it and in the end, i had a decent paint job. Made the next job easier, actually, since this one was a bit challenging
I remember back when it was Laquor only! I remember when Du-Pont came out with enamel, shot lots of Imron Centari and so on! I am 64 years old with about 45+ years experience! I did that trick probly before either 1 of you were born! Now you want to do a cool trick use tractor paint cut it with 8022s and use wet look harder! A shine with the reflection of a mirror!
I too shot some Imron in white, baby blue (the hot color in the mid-70's), I am 64 as well. Looking forward to my retirement so I get back to doing this. I will say, primers have come a long way from the mid-70's.
reminds me of how we used to do it back in the old days, only we dusted on a couple super fast flashing coats of lacquer for the color coat then followed it up with a couple progressively wetter coats of clear enamel, quick , simple and always looked good, well almost always.....
I have recently been spraying some fiberglass airplane parts. I discovered on my own that the first coat should be thin. Wish I would have seen this video first!! I was trying to make it shine on the first coat, and getting runs like crazy. I then put a thin coat on, and pounded the second coat with great shine and no runs. It lays out so nice too! Sometimes I would get little bubbles in the paint from tiny pores in the fiberglass. I would pound a third coat over those areas and they would fill right in and not even need sanding or buffing. I used Omni single stage and it seems to work really well with the gloss hardener. Love this stuff.
Great job. I have a 93 z71 I'm restoring and this video was perfect. Love the way you explain the process. It really helps us beginners and gives me confidence.
Hello witch aerosol clear coat do recommend for small project I'm finishing up my single stage has been drying over week and I'm trying avoid fish eye wrinkles while I'm applying clear what do you recommend grit sandpaper to knock top coat down safely without removing any paint just enough top coat bite on thanks
Beautiful! When you talk about keeping the wet edge, I deeply regret having tossed my early 80's Martin Senour paint chip book. It had a great tech section which included a diagram of how to move around a full sized car (single stage back then) to keep the edges wet. I recall those jobs as being extremely frantic, especially when you needed to refill the gun. Laying the hose out in the proper shape on the floor to facilitate moving from side to side and front to back was equally important. Like you say, basecoat clear is much easier and forgiving. Metallics were nearly impossible to get wet without zebra stripes. Great video as always!
I’m about to do my Datsun 510, I single staged the engine bay and installed the motor before I took it to the paint shop for base and clear 20 years ago. That paint is cracked and peeling and the single stage in the engine bay still looks like it did 20 years ago. Obviously it hasn’t seen UV and weather, but I’m sold on its hardness and durability.
Great timing with this video, My brother and I have been talking about repainting his car in single stage to keep cost down and I'm used to spraying basecoat and clear. Going back black with it; a little less forgiving than white would be, but this video helped give me the confidence to give it a shot.
This video reaffirmed my suspicions of issues i had laying out paint. Ive only done a few cars and it was years ago but had issues with orange peel and always suspected using medium hardner and reducer rather than slow was causing most of the issues. We'll see how my next goes hopefully this spring or summer. Thanks for sharing your info. Great channel!
I always learn something watching Brian. Question - You have all the guns and paint ready and then you switch over to the clear etc. Are the guns used for painting clogging up while you spray the clear? What do you do with them? How do you handle when to clean guns in between longer flash times and switching materials? When you see "pot life" does that mean your gun won't dry up and clog during that time? Epoxy primers have long flash times. One person doing everything seems like a huge task to manage this. What's your procedures/advice for this situation for managing the guns and cleaning? As always enjoyed it.
I so much thank you for this video. As hobbiest and live in a city with no proper room or equipment, this video changed my mind and helped a lot. I tried and failed both BC/CC and SS in my limited situation, but finally had successful result last night with single stage paint and clear coat. It was genius idea and very forgiven even in my limited situation. Thank you Brian.
Back when I was painting Nason paint was the cheapest paint you could buy, now looking like it’s building a new name for itself. I was doing mobile body and painting repairs on cars and trucks.
I love what you do for teaching me to learn how to do this I am just a60,s year old woodworker learn to do this on our vehicles first time we have a 1977 ford super cab long bed 1995 Chevy ext cab long bed 1998 Cadillac concourse and 2000 ford f250 super duty v10 6.8 crew cab and they All need paint and body work I will send you progress pictures when I start thank you for your channel Bill the deaf man can woodworker from Kansas
Totally important to protect yourself. Many years ago I was painting with an autopaint that had isocyanates. Those go straight through the skin. I had a good respirator for organic solvents, but I didn't have my arms fully covered. Yeah, you feel it pretty fast. I covered myself in a proper suit and was ok. But yeah... autopaint isn't something I mess with, though I imagine today's formulas are less.. dangerous.. possibly.
Very nice job , admittedly I’m not the best painter in the world and don’t do it for a living but I always take the doors / wings etc off . Makes it so much easier especially if you don’t have a spray booth. Second tip although some may disagree/ job dependent is say when painting a door paint one side first and get some wrap round, leave it to harden properly. Then block back and dust / overspray and then paint the other side . This takes the stress out of dust issues in cavities and actually holding the panels. Technically then it’s only the shells rear 1/4 / roof skin to do in one hit and if you F up it’s a lot easier to just blow in / re paint. Never underestimate how hard and skilled someone needs to be to paint a car . Oh and yeah it sounds stupid and obvious but make sure ALL your panels fit , PROPERLY!!!! 😂
Personally I dont recomend using Nason 2 stage basecoat clear sprayed over single stage Nason 2k urethane because it will blister and you will have small craters all over paint the next day. Second, the clear will not last since it only has one coat and it never integrates with the single stage paint, the clear will start to fade out in a year or two. Nason 2k urethane is designed to dry very slow so thst it levels out and you can spray it to s glsss finish but it is very common to run it. The base clesr is designed to dry quick so you can buff it the next day. So when you apply ot on top of the single stsge you are putting a plastic on top thus cresting vapors in between, so it starts to bubble like a bubblegum and then pops leaving craters on paint. Nason sells an integrated clear for this psint to reslly bring out the shine. Singles stage paint are designed to spray and go, not intended to be buffed, problem is that buffing 2k urethanes is very difficult and takes weeks to cure and is time and labor consuming compared to base coat clear which drys and cures in a day and buffs in seconds. Paint specs is the worst part in single stage paint and orsnge peel or runs specially metsllics. Basecoat clear is much more forgiving since it buffs out quick and your metallics dont move like single stage.
I just did my first single stage it was electric blue metallic by Hot Rod Flatz. Did it with the Kiwami4 on about 30 psi and it turned out great with zero orange peel. Followed pretty much the same method but before first coat did a few fine mist coats because I was spraying around 55 degrees. Did mine one panel at a time and used an infrared space heater to help speed drying.
I want to paint my car single stage white. Mainly because I don't have the space or equipment to do it all at once. So I'll be panel painting it. With a single stage white I won't have to worry about color match as long as I start with enough paint and blend any separate containers together for a consistent color
Thank you Brian. We took an engine bay from rattle can black to single stage red (body color) recently. It come out beautiful thanks tp tips ive picked up by watching your channel.
Reminds me of about 40 years ago I painted a car in acrylic lacquer. Then had to color sand it, then rub it out, and then wax it. NEVER AGAIN! I had some lacquer left over and a friend wanted his VW painted that color. So I painted it with the lacquer, but rather than sand/polish/wax; I shot some "clear" acrylic enamel over it. It looked just as good as the lacquer/sand/polish/wax. A year or so after, the engine in the VW caught fire and scorched the engine cover--bonnet---hood--?. The body shop that was going to repaint the engine cover, called the owner and asked her to find out what kind of paint I had used. They had tried everything they could think of to match my paint.
Nice Video. I spray a Lot Of Single Stage even Metallic, I Learn on the 70' when Centari Dupont, Acrilic enamel was the rule. I always begin and finish with slow reducer , slow activator, plus retarder. Adjusting the fluid in the gun to mirror spray, and by myself keeping the shine even start to finish, giving and testing the flash time. Single stage without a clear topcoat last longer, and when fade , onlyy need a compound and come back like new. I only mix clear with single stage on metallic , evrething slow start to finish and a fog coat 1to1 clear and color mix, when the system is 4 to 1.
Damn! Dear old dad was an auto body man & painter. Our jobs never came out that clean! I remember late nights sanding & prepping for paint jobs. I purchased a white 05 regular cab Tacoma 5 lug that was neglected during COVID. It set in the back of a Portland yard with the windows down about 3”. I've gutted & replaced the seats & carpet with new. At this time I’m going through the entire drivetrain & replacing everything that has fluid flowing through it. New brakes, ball & U- joints, shocks Yada Yada Yada. Where are you guys located as I LOVE to have you lay down another single stage white w/ a clear coat on a Tacoma. Oh I’ve lowered it on coil-overs about 2.5 & 3.5” so it shouldn’t be difficult to reach over. :😁
Back in the day single stage was my fav dupont centari ppg durcryl excellent and be sure if your spraying metallic it needs to flash longer so you don't have metallic movements
I did that same thing. I used the sigal stage paint and cleared over it, and after a few months, the paint started bubling up because it was so thick, not a good idea my whole car was a mess
3:40 I never had anyone explain this to me but I came to figure it out over time and have had many disputes with my father regarding how to spray using the system we use to what he is used to from back in the day 😂
Perfect. My black 99 2dr 2 wd Tahoe needs some love. I love black but white on a Tahoe or Blazer looks great also. I’m in Florida so white with turquoise pinstripes would be great at the beach.
Love some Fulthane! Great videos by the way. Used to shoot alot of Imron on Peterbilts and etc. Single stage metallics were the thing on those trucks back in the day. Good lord they were a pain in the rear to spray! Keep up the great work 😎
Problems do arise, every paint job I've been involved with, there's been a problem, some very small and insignificant, some very problematic, it's just the nature of it, while teaching my neighbor during his mustang resto, and my son painting his Supra, I tell them before we sprayed anything, that we hope for nothing to happen, bet never be shocked when it does.
When i started painting i wanted it to come out right excellent the first time and everythi g went wrong, now i just paint expectung the worst and everything vomes out right for the most part. The worst that csn happen is just sandvit again repaint
Couple questions for pros: Are wheels ever removed to make the vehicle lower and horizontal surfaces easier to spray? And, I certainly see the concern about not touching a freshly painted side while reaching to spray the hood. Why not spray the hood first?
Single Stage is best left to solid colors. many people especially beginners have a tendency to spray it too dry and end up with a lot of orange peel, when I first started I use to spray a fair amount of single stage, in real hot weather I would spay a coat of retarder after the last coat and it would allow the paint to level out like glass, DuPont used to sell a reducer and special hardener that make the final coat look like it had clear over it and worked well with metallic s but that was a long time ago, I would recommend spraying urethane's over enamel's , a little more expensive but much better lasting results.
I use an small booth and I have someone trail me and keep an eye for the hose to not touch the job and if spraying alone mix up multiple cups to keep up with the flash time.great video
I wish I had the patience to be able to do this at home. 83 Mustang convertible all the bodywork is done and it’s in primer just needs a scuffing and paint, but I was quoted $6000 to paint it. I can’t afford that and also I want to sell the car but then I have too much money into it to get anything out of it so I’d like to do a budget paint job.
Great work! It would have been more consistent if you would have let the painters switch sides for the second coat especially with Pedro spraying heavier coats. If you check it with a mill Guage his side would be higher. White has a tendency to show black specks. Used to use sikkens single stage and mix the clear right in to hide black specks
With single state you can put it on with a paint brush and if you have enough time yall can sand it flat and make it like glass. SS is just clear coat with pigment. I don't get why it gets so much hate, it looks as good as the effort you put into the job. Like this turned out awesome. Not a lot of orange peel it looks like factory orange peel
Brian, Ive watched for a long time. You da man. I'm thinking of doing my engine bay myself. Acrylic Urethane 1 stage. Bad call for a first timer? A local shop has agreed to do it and I trust them but I'd love to try. Am i crazy?
Would enjoy seeing a video on a proper gun rebuild. Preferably an lph400, since that's the gun I'm rebuilding, lol. Thanks Brian and paint society as a community
The part that’s scares me the most is mixing it properly. Choosing the right reducer for the particular temp and dealing with humidity down here in the south makes me nervous too.
Boats has the same procedure in epoxy . Adding the clear is a bonus. How much time would you suggest between clear coats if adding decals and a second clear coat?
