Been in the hobby 22 years and I'm 34 years old and I love this info. Fuel mixture 20, 25, 30 etc doesn't matter on any motor you just have to tune it for said fuel you're using. Great point though if you decide to mess with clearances for any reason just make sure that the piston doesn't hit the head. More compression more power and then if you add a higher fuel mixture then there's more power. I'm not going to get into cold or hot plugs cuz that's another road. Great video though man really nice job explaining.
Glad to watch this one. I have a vintage..ish.. Novarossi buggy 4.."21-4". That I recently put a new piston sleeve rod bearing. Did not mess with shims but even during break in I struggle to keep temp under 280-290 even when it's gargling rich puking oil out the pipe.now I have it broke in it reaching 260 before 2-3 minutes run time. And it still really rich. Long story short it had just 1 shim I put a .6 shim stack and she's great 215-230 after hard laps on track.
I have the 8 port motor as well..its one of my favourite engines..an yes great idea on checking the different sleeves an check the porting mods ppl have done..(like porting a Bridgeporr or Perephial port mazda motor) and an on road speed test of ported to stock
thanks for this vid very educational, its hard to come by this kind of information, i would be really interested in seeing some of your favorite carbs/piston and sleeves etc i have a grp tuned line .21 got it last year and had never been run. im curious to see if you have anything grp in your collection 🍻
I would like to see that bro because I have been swindled by a fue people regarding engines being apparently new or slightly used and in great condition but to find out that the piston goes all the way through the cylinder 😂
May 25th 7:00 a.m. couldn't help but notice that massive carb collection. Do you have a 3 needle that will fit a picco/ofna.26 max? If so could you let me know what it is so I don't know what to purchase or at least try to find? also looking for a decent Muffler/ pipe. Currently using THS header Traxxas resonator with the outlet drilled to 3/8, and it works decent, but with the stock carbs, I have the high side good, But I either can get good mid-range or a good Idle, not both. If I could find a good OS 3 needle with the 12.8 mm outlet bore? I can't afford to just buy them until I find the one with the right size Outlet to fit my block, and I have five of those engines I would prefer not to bore the engine as I would lose the O-ring seat at the bottom.
I've had a couple 26 max engines, but sold them years ago. I may have the carb from a jammin jpx 28, which is the exact same carb. I should have at least one picco carb from that era, I'll take a look when I get home. Thanks for watching.
Well I got a huge servo fetish myself, I've spent a fortune on them trying to figure out you know which pair that I prefer to run in my race buggy. Cuz I'm not one of those people who want to run one type on the steering and same one on the engine. I prefer the same model exact steering and engine. But yeah I'd love to see that big old bag of servos and what you got. Happy New years!
13:48 I was under the impression that having crank play at tdc meant the conrod was worn out. I have a Novarossi p5 that’s been sitting in a box because of this. Is it still ok to run?
@@mattinwinkymgNot necessarily. First off, the rules aren't hard and fast, but more of a general guideline. And I always recommend not messing with the shimming of a good running engine. I usually only go measuring and adjusting shims on an engine that I cannot get to tune right, and I've already checked glow plug, etc. I would recheck your measurements, maybe your piston wasn't all the way up. If you're .8 without shims, adding just a couple small shims will give you a pretty large gap. If that is the case, 30 probably is your best bet. Which engine is this btw?
you complicate your life this way of measuring the squish gap. The best is to put a piece of solder tin on the head of a piston, put the head back to its torque, gently turn the motor so that the piston crushes the tin, then remove the head and measure the thickness tin crushed at the ends!
I have seen that method employed before, and yes, it would be faster. And it is said, by trusted nitro authorities, to be perfectly safe. That being said, I just don't like doing it. I'd stress out thinking I might damage something. I don't tell anyone not to do it, I just don't do it myself. Thank you for your input, and thanks for watching!
