In the previous video ( • Toshiba Satelitte 4000... ) we did a complete teardown of the Toshiba 4000CDS. Now its time to put it back together again. #toshiba #laptop #teardown
My first IT job was servicing laptops and we were a Toshiba shop. I've repaired and refurbished hundreds of these computers. I really liked them. They were well made, very reliable, and easy to service. Couldn't stand those passive matrix LCD's. We'd always hang on to the CDT's with the active matrix displays.
We decommed so many of these at work...I took one out of the disposal pile and wanted to see if I could upgrade it or learn about its innards. I got about...idk, maybe I got the seven big screws out of the bottom and was confronted with barrier after barrier to entry, and I eventually just gave up on it. That would have been in '99 or so. Nice to see what I had wondered about all those years back, thank you!
That looks so intimidating, good job! I own a 4010CDT on which I replaced the two NiMH batteries two years ago, but taking off the cover of the bottom housing was pushing my comfort zone. There are so many small pieces to these, I would be losing my mind at this stage.
It's really surprising that these Toshiba-batteries still work after all these years. I have Toshiba 320CDT and it's original battery works about hour when DOS-gaming.
I was a huge fan of Toshiba laptops up until the early 2000s. I used to own a Tecra 8200. They were very well built (in Regensburg, Germany by the way) and easy to work on if needed.
The first laptop I ever bought was a Toshiba in 2004, it was really good I think I paid like 900$ at circuit city. Last summer when I decided to buy a computer I couldn't find and Toshibas so I got a Dell XPS instead 🤣
Look up easy-outs mate, and I would suggest phosphoric acid over acetic acid for rust clean and conversion. Works better and prevents further corrosion.
Speaking as a technician, I really don't like screwdrivers useing theese small bits, they never seem to get a decent grip. I prefer an assortment of screwdrivers :) I never understood the rubber band method. But I'm a master of removing busted screws! :) A lot of times useing a screwdriver for flathead screws can get a grip in a busted PH or PZ screw. Screws that have glue on the threads, can be heated with a soldering iron for a few minutes, it makes the glue liquid again and easy to remove the screw. Thanks for another interesting video :)
Those were made in times when Toshiba actually built good quality laptops. After mid 2000s their build quality just plummeted. You indeed did a very good restoration job on this unit, especially considering the "I have anything to loose" mindset you had about this task. Other people would just have roughly slammed the thing together without caring too much about the quality of their job, while you in fact took good care of the machine. Well done. As for the plastic stickers covering the screws, try to gently bend them in the opposite direction they're bent now, this should flatten them out and make them stick better to the plastic without popping out too much.
Thx … I’m back at work but we were all pretty sick for about a week. Lots of people getting infected here now, luckily none that I know with serious issues. Stay safe and healthy !
If you want to rebuild the battery. You can use the 18650 li-ion cells. I was able to fit in 6 21700 5000mah cells in there with a bit of shaving. Now my satellite pro 4280 lasts forever haha
Great job, i have some toshiba like yours but since their display are corrupted like on yours im not touching them atm. Bought a compapq lte, and man thats the quality, perfect screen, decent plastics. Also bought a dell latitude with p ii cpu, decent apswell. I needed to glue the lid couse it sptaprted to cenach near hinges, but put that aside eveŕything works file, even the battery.
Hello! I have the same laptop but I want to know if the BIOS battery have an alternative replacement, I mean, it's impossible to me to find the 7.2v / 40mAh and 2.4v / 20mAh, so could another battery work with approximate values? And wich values? Or we have to build the battery with parts? (sigh). I wonder if the battery can be rebuilt, because 10.8v using 18650 batteries its... complicated? 3 batteries (x3.7v) gives 11.1v, can that be a problem, or will it be enough to make it work?
Really lovely project and machine. But looking at 8:46: It seems like the electrolytics are already leaking too (maybe it's only dust, but the PCB above the IR diodes looks kind of bad)
Dismantling everything back at 11:30 made my day, as I remembered your comment on the disassembly video, which was "Hope the assembly process will go well and I don't forget the component that needs to be put in in step 3 when I'm at step 78 :)". Fortunately for you, your prediction on steps distance has been exaggerated. I'm waiting for a video with a victory over that darn heatsink screw. You cannot let it prevail! Anyway, both teardown and rebuilding were satisfying. I prefer lots of screws over some glue.
If you look at the screws you can clearly see that they are Philips. I know JIS is from Japan and so is Toshiba, but Toshiba doesn’t use JIS on laptops. JIS is primarily used in motors / motorcycles / machinery. Never seen a laptop or other electronics device with small JIS screws.
@@RetroSpector78 sorry for the offtopic, just gathering some information here. I hope you are better. All the best to you and your loved ones. 👍 Vaccinated with 2 doses??? which brand??? they told you which strain (variant) of the virus do you have??? @Fran Blanche also had covid a few weeks ago, fully vaccinated she was several days without smell or taste.
@@RetroSpector78 Quick Google search, JIS screws are found on everything made in Japan. JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is in the leading angle of the point of the driver. Phillips bits have a larger angle and therefore don't bottom out in the JIS screws, causing slippage. Phillips bits strip JIS screws. I looked in my collection of computer screws , especially the 6-32 because they are bigger and most are not marked but some are marked with a small dot, so JIS screws! Regards, Dave.
@@RetroSpector78 Hi, I had more than 10 of these old Toshiba notebooks from the Pentium and Pentium MMX era, ranging from Libretto 70, different Satellite Pro to the Tecra 500 and 700 series. Most of them had a least one or two screws, that were hard to remove with a normal Phillips head screwdriver. After getting an ifixedit set, I found out that the JIS bits work way better on the old Toshiba notebooks. In hindsight, I could have realized it even earlier, becaus older devices like a T1600 and T5200 uses correctly marked screws with a dot.
I have a set of screwdrivers from 2004 that claim to be Chrome Vanadium, but have a surface treatment on them that almost looks and feels like carbon, and I’ve found that with screws where the material is more likely to strip or chowder, they’ve been great at breaking the threadlock and extracting them. I’m writing the manufacturer now to see if there’s anything special about them so I can pass it on, but they’ve been a worthwhile tool for various teardowns I’ve done
I have similar laptop, it's Toshiba Sattelite 210CS, but to find the EDO-RAM for this mashine is really pain in the ass. Mainly is because i'm based on Europe, and everything is from USA.
My wife's first laptop is a Toshiba Satellite 220CDS. I upgraded the HDD to a larger capacity (I seem to recall the original was only 1Gb so I think I put in a 20Gb one) and upgraded the ram with a 128Mb card. There's a funny story there in that the company that I bought the RAM from sent us the wrong part, and then refunded us AND sent the correct part. My usual honest self would have contacted them about it, but after they'd dicked us about by getting us to send them back the incorrect part at our expense, I just left it at that. I guess the accounts department only meant to refund us the cost of our expenses in sending the other part back, but who knows. This was in the early 2000s, so I expect the RAM for these is pretty rare these days.
Your driver isnt a standard phillips. It does not have a filed flat tip. Thats your problem. The point bottomed out in the screw before the flutes were fully engaged.
Detailed screw organizing scheme ;) I don't know if it was to address my question from the previous video, but that's not what I was wondering. My personal issue with screws is not about how to organize them or identifying their different size. It's knowing where each size go back to ;) I'm always afraid of using the wrong one and damaging the threads on the receiving side, or causing long screw damages. As for the extra screws at the end, wouldn't it be nice to store them back where they used to belong, even if they aren't useful anymore? My philosophy is to keep them in the device as potential spares, or just in case they ever become useful again in the future (let's say you were to 3D print the broken plastic parts). Maybe you just have a different philosophy about it ;) Otherwise, excellent video. Loved it. Very complex assembly, I'm betting the workers at the factory hated that laptop, and assembly was costly for Toshiba. Is every feature on the laptop still functional? By that I mean, CD drive, diskettes, speakers, etc... Except of course the black lines on the LCD panel.
I have an old Toshiba with AMD K6 II 500. I purchased at a flea market for $5. I replaced the hard drive with HGST 80gb. Added more m Memory and I had to replace the CDROM drive which stopped working. It works great now. Better than NEW because of the faster hard-drive and more ram.
Yeah once a screw gets t that point, your only choices are to use a drill or a dremel. When using a dremel in such a small spot, you would use a thin diamond tip. Like the very thin long diamond tip, not a cutting disk, and you would use the thin diamond tip to cut flat channels into it that you could use with a flat head screw driver. It's difficult and annoying work, so i don't blame you for not wanting to if you don't have to. I would have done it, but that's more because i've done it before so i know what to do. And i'd want to replace the thermal paste and what ever.
@@razorback20 That sounds horrible, but you could probably crudely dremel in a torx bit. Turning it into a flat head or even just making new phillips channels using the diamond tip(not as expensive as people think) is pretty quick and easy. Takes me about 5-10 minutes per screw depending on where it's at.
@@LazyBunnyKiera True, I'm resorting to cruelty, but it's because: 1. I don't own a Dremel (Shame, I know) 2. I consider this screw is FUBAR'ed anyway. And hardly accessible. So, I have no problem about finishing it for good when extracting it, and then replacing it with a fresh one.
Laptops are my least favorite thing to take apart. I find it as frustrating as trying to take a dash out of a car. I'll take a desktop or Tower any day. 😆
When a Philips screw is that far gone, sometimes a small flat blade screwdriver can grab it enough to turn. You may need to tap it in lightly with a small hammer to get it seated into the screw head before trying to turn it. Or at least push down hard when trying to turn it.
If you didn't talk slower than a snail crawls and digressed over needless information, you could have reduced this video down to 10 minutes... I definitely lost interest here.
