Thanks for the video. I didn't know what to do with the interferring connectors below the fan (Canadian car) and thanks to you it was just easy. To retighten the screw above the connectors, you can use an 8mm socket to give you extra torque to finger tighten it up before going to the wrench to finish it off. Wish I did this a year ago instead in the dead of a cold spell in our winter.
many thanks for this ! my car has the same problem, will try these steps at the weekend. Really appreciate the detailed guide and the before/after comparison!
Just watched your video and its just awesome. Nice step by step explaination! I have the same problem at my '11 CT so the first sunny Saturday I will try the same fix by using your video. Thanks man!! Grtz Bas from Holland
SIr you saved me $80 in a generic part. I think what happens is that one retainer walks out or perhaps something in the bushing is deteriorating making it a little loose. Worked for IS250 Instead of a spray lube I used silicone dielectric paste on the shaft. Was thinking the thicker grease would hold up better over time.
Just an update, mine lasted about 7 or so months but just started grumbling again. If I try again I think I'll need a brand new spring clip for the shaft. Or maybe file a notch to stop it slipping up
Mine worked lose after about 6 or so months. I'd recommend either replacing the clip/washer with a new one. "starlock washers" i believe they are called. Next time I open it, I'm going to use a file to file a small grove or slot in the shaft for the starwasher to grip to.
Mine also went lose after couple of months use. Probably I did not go hard enough while hammering but will try to improvise before I buy a replacement...thanks for making the video! Cheers.
Mine doesn't make such a loud noise like yours but defo makes a noticeable noise when AC is turned on...heard better when fan level is on low. But the passenger side isn't blowing really cold like drivers side.. What could it be?
Thank you! This helped, although I have to admit I only tried to fix this once the noise became unbearable and the fan would also shut itself off after a few seconds. My “after” result is more like your “before” state. I may try this again or look into buying a replacement fan motor. Does anyone know a compatible Toyota part I could get? Thank you again!
Mine has no upwards or downwards travel as indicated in your video, but still making the grumble, checked the bearings but all looks fine. ??? Very strange.
Yes, unfortunately mine started to grumble again and it didn't seem to have play in it.. could only be a balancing issue unfortunately. I hope to get an aftermarket one to review soon, but its been delayed in transit for ages now so may have to order again
@@DanSohan The stator had moved down the bearing housing causing a rumbling noise, 100% fixed. Made a video to help as this problem is deceptive and tricky to diagnose. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LGGDYxB3e7A.html
Hi, I have helped a friend replace his car's blower motor...the original blower fan blade has a clip on it. But the new blower motor blade does not have a clip on it. Would I need to remove the clip and put it on the new blower fan blade?
No, I wouldn't think so. The clip is for balancing the fan, and it takes special equipment to detect where to put it.. my guessing would be the replacement is already balanced using another method.
Hi, i know this video is a few years old now, i replaced the bronze bushings woth rubber sealed bearings and works a treat. I would though like to power it up manually for a little winter project i have. I have measured the signal pin as 500hz @ 4v and ranging a PWM of 21-75% duty cycle. As its feed with a permanent battery feed (even with ignition off) could i use an ebay PWM generator to spin it up do you recon?
Hi, sounds like an interesting project and good work on identifying the drive signals. Can you find a 500Hz PWM driver on ebay? It might be cheaper to use an Arduino and program it to create a 500Hz output, but depends on your experience with programming etc. Could use a variable resistor and the map command to keep within the 21 to 75% range
@@DanSohan I was surprised too, but according to the wiring diagram it has a 50A fuse direct to Batt. I've actually got a PWM generator (£5 eBay) and I'm going to give it a go. The end goal is to install an additional 12v battery on a split charge circuit - powering the PTC Heater (on low) and bringing on the fan at low speed to defrost the car on cold mornings automatically, triggered by an Alexa WiFi switch (my WiFi reaches the car) set a routine to switch on 15 mins before leaving for work 😅
Ambitious project. Will you need to govern the air flow direction flaps to vent on the screen, or just warm the whole car up.. I also believe there is a way to remotely start the car, but it would take some figuring out to work out which isnmore efficient? Running the ICE or recharging the second battery.. also.. is the electric heater in the CT (mine doesn't have one?) Not powered by 210v battery..
@@DanSohan I usually leave mine on auto (except AC - Off, till I want it) which means flaps are usually parked in screen/floor mode. I would have to manually select Recirc the night before so I am re-heating inside air. Not sure about remote start, I know some alarm companies offer it but I imagine it's expensive. So the heater, its a PTC 12v heater (2 earths, 3 Live, 4 elements) apparently all CT's have it but it has to meet criteria to work - Outside 10c or less, Max Heat selected on climate. you can confirm if you have one by looking under the blower fan and finding 2 plugs with chunky wires in (plug one has 2 white/blk negatives, other plug red, white and black - all 12v positives) It's all listed in wiring diagrams :)
