This is the 2nd upload of this video. Found an issue with the stator windings needing to be secured. Took it for a drive and it fixed the issue. Buy blower motor here if yours is too late to fix: amzn.to/2XTlSCD
I forgot to mention that since this is a brushless DC motor the magnet cup needs to keep alignment with the small disc at the end of the shaft. Please put a mark on the disc and the cup so you can realign these parts when reassembling.
I too am unsure what you mean by "Please put a mark on the disc and the cup so you can realign these parts when reassembling" . Can you explain this better? What disc? and how does it exactly affect it?
Hi Anthony, You went by hard way to disassemble it. I just took off board cover, board itself and plastic housing which hold the motor keeping cage and the bell cover on the shaft. There's is just a self locking washer needs to be gentle slide off and you can slide the motor of the shaft. Clean up, lubricate and put everything back in 10-15 min.
Thank you for this helpful video! I followed most (I didn’t use the grease) of your instructions and successfully replaced my blower motor. It took me about an hour (I was a bit claustrophobic and took several breaks) and it runs perfectly! Just in time for winter. Aloha
Makes me wanna experiment and modify a old school GM 90s style. Those are cheap and actually last. But it probably wont be possible because of the electrical board linking it to the ECM on the dash....Im savvy with anything electrical myself home or auto. I appreciate these vids even more because it gives me an idea before even attempting mess with it.
Would have to add a circuit to manage the speed. With this brushless DC type you no longer have a blower motor resistor. So the hvac controller connects directly to it and sends a pulse width modulated signal to tell the motor how fast.
It was enough to remove the rear lock washer with a magnetic clutch and pull out the axle + magnetic rotor + blower fan, and simply remove the bronze bushings, lubricate them and put them in place, then everything worked without any glitches.
For what it’s worth, mine disassembled a bit differently, and per the comments below was going to try and replace the bushings with ball bearings. I got the wrong inside diameter and broke crap trying to pound the bearing onto the shaft. So…if you’re going to try to do what I did, you might measure your shaft first. Mine measured around .3” which converts to 7.62mm. So maybe try two 8x19 by 8mm ID bearing.
Thank you for your video. Although I followed all your instructions, it turned out to the be the circuit board itself. In any case I ended up purchasing an aftermarket part because the OEM is too expensive. 🤷♂
@@TheVintageEngineer I should have been clear. I don't have the talent to do this! I have to pay for the whole enchilada. Kudos to you for the repair, awesome job.
I took the blower, keep the cable connected, held it by hand then made it work. The strange thing was that the annoying noise disappeared, but when I reassembled it, the noise came again. I was confused as I thought it should be noisy no matter where it was.
it's amazing how they use a super fancy brushless DC motor but it's missing 2 drops of oil... Like you say these new blowers are built to suck... I have a 2014 Bosch blower that was already seizing at 40kMi. Besides dry bushings it looks like the main design issue is the shaft being too skinny to take the abuse from the wobbly fan wheel balanced or not. It's a great idea NOT to disassemble the stator from it's shaft as they likely are balanced together. Txs 👍
you are a good machinist lol, do u work on manual machine or cnc LOL, I need to lubrication oil greese but I can't take out the white blade fan, how do u take it out...???
"D shaped, tip of the shaft". Giggle snort. Sorry, i'm feeling juvenile today. Loved your video though! Thanks! If you have time and do need to swap it out, you can get the part on eBay for 30-40$
You don't have to beat on the shaft to disassemble the motor just remove the retaining ring once the circuit board is out of the way also I find the best fix for these fans because the bushings are the weak point is to replace them with 8mm x19mm bearing the bearing number is 698 should outlast the vehicle after that
I just ordered the 8x19 698 bearing from Amazon. I will give it a try today. Thank you for suggesting and providing the specs for the bearings. UPDATE: I installed the 8x19 698 bearings I ordered from Amazon and they fit perfectly (they cost $6 for 5 bearings, I only used two). I used a small metal washer instead along with the bearings. Don't over tighten when putting together a check for it to spin by hand. It's been installed now over 3 weeks and it's working perfect. This bearing upgrade is definitely the easiest and best fix for the motor noise.
I disassembled the same, just removed the board then the housing then removed the clip and that allowed everything to come apart with just fingers, no hammer necessary, and I did not have to remove the fan from the shaft, or remove the armature from the bearing housing, no hammer or press required. The clip was kinda tough, but with patience it pried out, i used a runny grease,, ( much thinner than nlgi # 2) noise gone
@@raventai I should do this way. I did not read this. Doing this way is better. I got problem after all cleaning the fan blower would run about 2 seconds then stop. Restart the fan blower also works only 2 seconds then stop. Now I am lost. The fan was working before. Well, a lession learn.
Ok, i had the same problem as the fan goes into a jitter mode or starts and then stops. What you have to look out for is that there is a punch dot inside the magnetic cup where the shaft comes through, which in fact lines up with one of the holes in the cup on mine, I transferred that inside dot to the outside of the cup, then i precicely lined it up with the flat on the shaft. Now it works perfectly fine. I lubed my shaft with 80-90w oil. Line up the dot on the inside with the flat on the shaft in simple terms.
@@TheVintageEngineer saw your video and it really helped me, thank you! However, I couldn’t get it to stop start/stopping like Lorant Jakab experienced. I followed his advice and lined the drum punch mark to the flat side of the shaft and it solved my problem. I have pics if you want them. You can add them to your video if you want.
This motor still working for you? I've read a lot against using oil for this application cause it will just spin it out, sometimes into the electrical parts of the motor making things worse?
To use the motor you need power, ground, and a speed signal. I think it’s a pulse width modulated signal and the duty cycle is the commanded speed. I don’t know what the frequency or amplitude of it is.
4 hours later...... Can you edit your video to where you talk about having to make sure stuff is lined up or you need a press. I went right along without seeing the end till I put back in the van and it didn't work.......so to go from a working motor to a non working in middle of winter can make for a rough day...... I just finally got lucky and it works but for how long....
So the cup has magnets (think it was 6) and the stator windings have “poles” as they are called. For most efficient torque the stator windings need to pulse when the magnets are in a certain angular distance away from the poles. It they pulse when they are lined up you won’t have any rotational force. Think of a small merry go round. If you push towards the center, nothing moves, but if you push at and angle the merry go round spins. The processor needs to know when to pulse the coils so it needs a feedback loop. That is what the disc does. It acts as a magnetic rotary encoder and there are 3 chips on the board that read this disk. Using the data the computer knows where the cup is rotationally (also knows current speed). It this is off, it will pulse at the wrong time, not achieve as much torque, and acceleration won’t be as much as it should be. That is why the system shuts off when it’s not lined up right, because the pulses are off, the sensors are reading less acceleration/speed and it considers it a fault and shuts down.
@@TheVintageEngineer that was a surprisingly clear explanation that even I as an absolute beginner when it comes to motors can understand. I like that merry go round analogy. Very very cool! Thanks so much!!!
Hi, I cleaNED the shaft is very smooth. I glued the coil to the plastic shaft. But after I cleaned, it wont run or just ran 2 seconds and stop. There is not any codes in AC system. The fan only run 2 seconds. What do you do to fix that? my friend.
I could how swore I put a pinned comment after making the video about this but I can’t find it. That piece at the end of the shaft that is behind the push nut is magnet sensor disc that works with the Hall effect sensors on the board and the magnetic cup has to be in the right rotated position in reference to this .The magnet cup has to go back on the shaft the same way it came off and indexed right. Your shaft to magnetic cup is out of sync/alignment. Take it apart again and turn the magnetic cup a few degrees and try it again. May take a couple of tries but it should work. I forget but their maybe some sort of mark on the magnet cup that probably lines up with the flat of the shaft.
@@TheVintageEngineer I checked the round magnet is one way with D shape hole. It was not removed off the shaft during I removed the assembly. I tried to adjust the magnet very close to the 3-chips and tested, it still only run about 2 seconds then stop. Restarted the fan blower it will also doing the same running-2-second then stop even the fan command is on the display. I restarted the vehicle, restarted the AC many times. it still the same. I think the controller board got something wrong after I cleaned the bearing bushing. The friction is changed and the start up speed is changing. The fan start up full speed even I adjust the fan only one bar. that is why the controller board shut down the fan motor. So there is some way to relearn the fan blower speed from start. I forgot to test the motor before I disassembly the blower to clean the bushings. It was working a day before. Now I am lost. new fan now.🙂
It happened to me dies after few second . Cleaned the magnetic encoder from debri or metal fillings from bushing. the magnetic encoder should be enough close to the board where the sensors are. Hope it helps
At $140 bucks, 30 minutes of work seems worth it. But unless you are used to taking stuff apart, I don’t have a problem with anyone just swapping it out.
@@TheVintageEngineer thanks for posting the videos and updates. I’ve read that the aftermarket ones last a year or so. Thought about replacing the bearing, but I would have been dead in the water. Cheers.
See pinned comment above. It’s a brushless dc motor so you have to mark it before taking apart. Since it’s already apart, you will need to separate the shaft again and put it back a few degrees off and try again until it starts fine.
@@TheVintageEngineer I tried clocking that sensor disc a couple time with no luck. I took it apart again and saw a very small “2” on the black plastic triangle looking things and saw a corresponding tiny “2” on the underside of the sensor disc. Lined them up and it worked. So they might be labeled.
I just ordered the 8x19 698 bearing from Amazon. I will give it a try today. UPDATE: I installed the 8x19 698 bearings I ordered from Amazon and they fit perfectly (they cost $6 for 5 bearings, I only used two). I used a small metal washer instead along with the bearings. Don't over tighten when putting together a check for it to spin by hand. It's been installed now over 3 weeks and it's working perfect. This bearing upgrade is definitely the easiest and best fix for the motor noise.
@@codyq0987 I didn't remove the white fan, instead I disassembled on the side of the control board. Just pay attention where everything goes and it assembles back easy.
Made in Japan denso pieze garbage blower cost $200 plust low guality part I have a 2015 since new start making cryppy noise cold weather after couple years I have to replace it bcz making real bad noise
