An LG 42LN5300 LED TV from 2013. Totally dead. I know what you're thinking, but no the power supply is fine on this one and fully operational. Problem traced to main board and repaired.
Another great instructional video with intimately detailed commentary, thanks for taking the trouble, hope you get a buzz from doing them for us. Ray H. ( from the U.K. )
Thanks for the video and tips. Revived my family's dead led tv, Sony KD-55XD7004. Saved me ordering another main board, just used a hot air gun, circling underneath the chip area for about 10min until i could feel the heat through to the chip's 'white' heat spreader. Reminded me of working with bga components some 8+ years back. You know your stuff well. Thanks from Finland 🇫🇮
Thank you so much for taking the trouble to tell us all how you fixed this problem, I enjoyed every bit of this video. I especially liked how you broke it all down to basics and explained in full detail your trouble shooting..........I have just subscribed and I am looking forward to more of your clips. Ray H. From the U.K.
I just cover the surrounding area with tin foil. The chip is isolated. put a nickel or quarter on top of the chip for bit of weight and a very small piece of solder on the tin foil next to the chip. Turn on a hair dryer on low or a heat gun on low and heat up until the solder on the foil melts, then heat for 15 sec more. Works every time.
Wow, that's all it took. I used my soldering air gun on the chips at 180°F for like a minute and the red standby light came back on. I reassembled and my TV turned on! Friggin amazing. 🙌
Thanks for the tip. It worked for my TV, which had similar symptoms. Instead of halogen bulb I used incandescent light of rating 100W for 1hr about 3cm above the board. TV turned on successfully. There were also few white lines on the display, they also got fixed. Happy... :) Thanks for the tip.
Brilliant. I had no red led light and no power except for pins 2 and 3 showing 3.35V, used a 50w halogen bulb on the big chip "engine" raised about an inch from the board for about an hour. Let it cool for 15 mins then tried it. Working perfect. Thanks a lot from London
your a genius.. had same problem with my lg 60'' model 60 LB5900 UV. would not turn on, would unplug many times, then it might come on. it got cold in my game room and problem got worse. heated the XD engine square modules with hair dryer for several minutes.. works like a charm.. thanks!! Todd
GREAT information, I am from the old school of not using too much heat on transistors or any solid state devices, I find this amazing that that heat lamp re flowing solder did not destroy those chips. But again like I said I am from the old school, vacuum tubes and some transistor work back in the 60's. Thanks for the great educational video, enjoy your channel.
I had and LG 46 and used your method but using a heat gun for 20 sec about 2" from the chip and it works now!!!. Thanks for taking the time to publish your video.
Very well done! Can the board be heated from the back with a heat gun and to what temperature? I watched many of the other's showing a bad power supply board and know that is not the 100% given. Thanks again for your thorough step by step instructional video.
Really surprised to hear it wasn't the power supply. I reflowed the solder on my Insignia power supply board when I discovered poor solder joints and it works perfectly now. I'll keep your video in mind if one of my LG tv's fail. Thanks!
Just wanted to say thanks! My LG 42lk550 is 5 years old and I couldn't find any parts for it, like a mother board. I ended up using my heat gun on level 4 on the dial for about 6 minutes and shazam! It didn't have a picture or sound and now it works. Never knew this trick until I watched your video. Thanks again.
TLDR: very helpful vid. 60" lg plasma w/red standby led no display&sound, ruled out basics/pwr cable/power board (no obv damages/traces/loose connections/bulging or leaky caps, volts/grounds good) hadn't considered reflow (specifically cpu/other chips) will attempt that too. Thank you for additional possibilities. Recently obtained an older lg 60" plasma, TV's are pretty cheap these days and most are not worth the time trying to fix but I miss the picture quality of the old plasmas over most of the newer TV's and enjoy learning different repair techniques especially since I'm an electrician by trade so your video was very informative and to the point on your thinking process and has given me some additional areas of attack.
Thanks Brotha, you saved me a lot of time and money. I used a heat gun on a Sony 60 inch, used a heat gun, and it worked, been using it for 3 months now. Again Thanks.
We actually got this TV from our local waste site. The TV looked like it was clean, it was missing a remote control though. We turned it on and it worked great as a rarely used bedroom TV. I got a remote off Amazon. Then our 65" Samsung back light bar (just one, we think) has gone out. So we brought the LG out. It was solid for 2 days. Then it had all the problems you described. So glad we found you!!! We're going to try this to see if it works. I hope you have a video showing how to replace the backlight bar on my Samsung.
very interesting and informative but please can you let me know if this tv which you cooked in the oven is it still running or packed in again after a few months, do you think that after the heating in the oven,will it last for at least 2 or 3 years. i am very keen to know this.
Excellent video my good sir, I picked up a LG model - 55LS4600-UA at the recyclers today, I opened it up and looked at the capacitors on the power board none were bulged. The issue I was having was the RED Stand By Light would light up. But if you tried turning the TV on, nothing would happen. I used a Wagner Heat Gun for about a minute on the IC101 and IC1201, then after letting it cool, POW! the TV fired up! I'm glad I got it for free though, since i didn't notice the small crack in the screen till i got it to light up. Wish i could fix the screen now, but i guess it would cost too much. Just glad i learned something today :)
Great video. Thank you for actually taking the time to explain what you're doing. I have a LG 55LB5900 here only 2 years old that keeps flashing from black to picture steadily. Sound is fine & menus flash as well. Any ideas you have sure would help. Thanks.
Very helpful thanks. A Lg tv I picked up tonight wasn't turning on so I put the gas heater on and placed the back of the tv 2 feet from the heater 25 minutes and a slight distortion to the back plastic I plugged it in and it turned on . Nice cheap Tv.
We really appreciate this info, and are going to try to fix ours. Only other thing is that we've lost our remote control : ( We are thinking we'd just get a universal remote. What do you think?
I heard about those Onkyo receiver BGA problems... I bought a new TX-NR818 and put little RAM Heat sinks on all the chips on the HDMI board. And have fans on top of the unit pulling heat out and cool air in from the bottom of the unit. Hopefully will prevent this failure.
Neat, trick. My went out in a power surge. Plus I found one some one set next to the dumpster the following day. I just bought my 40" a few months ago. I will try this trick on it.
Great Video! I'm try to fix my electric pool vacuum control unit. The wind knocked it over and it won't power up, same a your TV, has a power board and a control board. I guess a hard jolt when the unit is on is not healthy for these boards? Won't power up at all, I did check the ceramic fuse for continuity.
Hey I literally used a hair dryer, and the red light came back ! Then when I put the HDMI cable and chose HDMI in the menu it became frozen with lines everywhere. Do you think the power was not enough ? Do you think it could work better with a 300W heat gut ? Because I cannot buy more expansive for now. Thanks !
Thanks for the video! It seems that flatscreens uses fixed dc-voltages. And what would you say if one could modify conventional electronic devices that has a ac-dc circuitry to be full-on dc? Let say that you make a 24v DC-board to supply the tv for a offgrid system that has no dc-ac-converter. Would it work? /CARL.
Wow. You're very smart!! I wish I could speak that intelligently! Especially after covid I'm lucky to complete a sentence without getting twitterpated. Thanks so much for a detailed video! You should be a teacher or do some electrical instruction videos online! People would totally pay to watch these and learn what you know!
I have a very similar TV, with exactly the same power board. While it was playing it suddenly gave a loud bang and was dead. Other problem than described in this video. Measuring, the first fuse behind the power cord was dead (EL7-EL8, of type 5A 250V). Replaced it, powered it and after a few seconds another bang but this time the first fuse (which I replaced) was still OK so must be another component blown. Any suggestions? Do I dig deeper or do I just replace the whole power board? EDIT: I hadn't fixed the power board properly, learned from this video that they provide ground connection. When properly screwing it back on it powered up just fine. Me happy. My first repair of this kind and found it pretty much myself except for that part with the screws for which this video helped me. Thanks!
Thank you so much :-) my tv (LG 42lx6500) was also dead. So i looked inside it. Everything seemed perfect. so i looked at the screws and drill them a little bit - aaaaaaaand the tv is working again. It was a Ground-Problem with the screws ... Damn^^ thank u for showing/saying that :-*
Thank you! 2019 sharp 43” Red standby light won’t turn on. Swapped out power supply no luck. Heat gun for a minute each main board chip did then trick. Hope it lasts
Accidentally while fixing audio/video cables 12 V/50 mA power entered into the LCD TV's main board from the sat box. Now no power, no stand by light. Where do you thin the problem lie now? Grateful for any advice.
What temperature would you say the chip is seeing at the end of the heat cycle? Depending on what I discover on my same model, I am considering using a heat gun to do what you did. I just don't want to overcook the chip.
+Tim I don't have a thermocouple to measure the temperature as of yet. Once of these days I will invest in one. Hot enough to flow the solder. I usually leave it I=until I see the rosin smoking good. I now use a heat gun, as it is faster. I have had mixed result doing BGA repairs and a few I have had to repeat a few times to get it working. SO don't take the time shown cooking here as a guideline, because times are usually edited down. When I did a few of these it took 10 or more minutes to get the chip hot enough to get a good bond. Saying that, all the devices I have fixed so far are still working, as most are mine.
I have a BK hot air station. Just curious at What temperature do think would be best and for how long if I wanted to heat up and reflow a bga component? The issue with my TV I think is different, I tested the led+ connectors and I'm getting 74 volts with leds connected to power supply board and only 70 volts when I disconnect the leds from the power supply board. Does this sound like a faulty power supply to you? TV symptoms: backlights keep turning off. If I turn the TV off and back on again the TV works for about an hour then the backlight goes out again. Audio works fine and tcon board looks good (have image with flashlight).
Thanks for this video, another interesting repair, and not the common faulty caps in power supply thing. Could you show us a bit more of the halogen lamp you used ? Maybe in another video; it was a close up. Anyway, thanks for videos. Greetings from Paris (Fr).
+Onel s4Yes I was thinking of doing just that. I have a scrap board I can work with that has BGA chips on it. If I leave it on the board long enough I should be able to actually remove the chip.
Great video! I used the same repair on my LG TV (different model, but same concept). I used a regular 100W incandescent bulb in a floor lamp with a metal reflector. I put the lamp directly over the chip in question and left it there for an hour. The TV immediately worked when powered back on. I'm guessing having my TV mounted above the fireplace for 5 years was a bad idea.....
I’ve watched this twice, and although I have similar problems, I.e. my standby light blinks slowly, the TV doesn’t turn on. If I wait till the blinking stops I usually hit the power button and it turns on. Today however after watching again, I couldn’t get it to turn on. But I started pushing the buttons on the back, channel up, channel down. After hitting the channel down the TV turned on.
Thank you for posting this. May I ask what voltage setting do you need to be on...on multimeter? V DC not VAC right?....and which number?...20?...200?..2000m? Thank you
If you dont know exactly the measuring voltage then start from the higher range on the multimeter and if the readings are lower from the next lower range turn to this to get higher accuracy readings.Or pick an autorange multimeter.
Thanks for the insight. I bought a used TV and after bringing it home, it wouldn't turn on. Power board has the standby voltage being transmitted to main board. So I assumed Main Board must have kicked it. I am going to try your method and see if it helps.
I have this TV and started having the exact issue described in your video. Except I think I got lucky. After I took the back off and laid the TV face down, I plugged it in and it turned right on! ... ??? I guess maybe I had a ground issue? I have no clue. But I did tighten all the screws like you suggested at the beginning. Some of the ones on the power board didn’t seem very snug either .... so I’m guessing ground was issue? Who knows. Thanks for the video though.
Quick question - how many Volts should I be measuring at the LED backlight? I could swear at 11:20 you said 48VDC. I've got 93 VDC constant but all my standby Voltages are correct. I don't have the exact power supply but the main board on my 55LN5400 is the same and all of the PSU connectors are the same.
Excellent video! I am having almost the exact same issues with my Panasonic TC-39AS530U. TV turns on, screen flickers 3 times (I can see the LED lights flickering in the back), then I get a blank screen with 1 LED flicker (error code 1 I assume) then just a slowly blinking red LED. There is no sound and I can't turn it off with the remote. I have to press and hold the power button on the side of the unit or unplug it to turn it off. I have tested my power supply board. ALL 3 test points (standby, LED driver, and main board) maintain voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light. However, the pins on the connector for the main board and driver board go from 16V and 24V respectively down to 0 when the light starts to blink. There are 3 test points on the main board, 5.3V, 12V, and 15V. The 5.3V (standby) maintains voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light, the other two do not, they go to 0. Would that, along with voltages being maintained on the power supply board, indicate that this main board is bad? I really hope that is the case as I do not want to get into replacing LED strips. Thanks and keep up the great work! P.S. I have put in new power supply and T-con boards and the problem continues.
I've seen videos on youtube of people putting their LG motherboards into a conventional oven for 10 minutes at 380 degrees F. I like your method much better!
I actually used a cheap chingy Heat station on a BGA chip a few years back now and the sucker is still going, the trick is getting the temperature just right..
Short circuiting filter caps that carry high volt will give a flash crack pop.. I've seen damaged parts due to arc over on smd boards. On the other hand it's great that a time serviced engineer takes the time to show the many faults and how to track them down to restore electroinc equipment to working life.
Hi this is Jack from upstate NY. I am enjoying your videos and now have a 2017 Chevy Volt Premier. Question about switching power supplies. The pwr. supply in my Wersi organ has a large heatsink that seems to run too hot. 200 degrees F. average, would you consider that normal? I have changed all the componants after the switching transistor burnt out. Installed the correct one with higher amperage. But it still runs i think hotter than it should, any comments on that? Thank you, Jack.
@@12voltvids Hi, Thank you for the reply. I just added a smaller 2nd heatsink glued on to the original. It now runs a lot cooler around 120 degrees F. I think it will be ok now. I have two of these Wersi organs with the same power supply, and they both act the same as far as heatsink temp. Thanks again, Jack.
Hi I did the same with a friends PS3, i use liquid flux and used a heat gun to heat the chips up and it worked. dont give a shit if it's not a full time fix it was a favour and it still works today over 12 months, at the end of the day it's working and not in the skip. Thanks again for a fantastic vid dude. Simon
When you bake the chip for an hour, was TV standing as normal? In other words, was that PC board standing vertically attached to the tv ? Did you have to press the chip down while it was hot? Thanks
I would like to know some specifics about applying heat to the board, I don't have a halogen lamp, but I do have a flood light that I can suspend over the board would that produce enough heat to do the job? or mabey a heat lamp?
Would a hairdryer get to a high enough temperature? I don't have a heat gun or a lamp...had already changed the power supply and no go. The way I see it I should try as I won't lose anything...
👍👍never seen that done.before,very cool.repair ,most people would have thrown that tv out,nice save,and I have a little rework station ,I seldom use the heat fan ,except on a kit with smd parts ,which is not favorite kinda of kits,but I figure I should learn .thanks for another great video.
Some day I might get a rework station. Would make life easier but I don't do enough SMD work. I actually cheated on this. I did use the light bulb, but I actually put it much closer than what is shown here. I set the bulb directly onto the ship when I baked it.
Absolutely well done video 12voltvids ! I have the exact same set.My problem is TV will turn on for split second then nothing, red led stays on hit power button again LG logo for split second then die, red led goes off too. Will try halogen heat lamp with spacers and see what happens.
I have an LG TV (42lg3000) with an intermittent SMPS problem. All the caps are fine, yes, I tested the ESR. I have the power supply on the bench with a pull up resistor and most time it boots just fine. I always have 5 volts but the 12, 16, and 24 are just dead. When it does decide to run, I can power lamps and stuff to load it and it's fine. I'm really stuck. If it were dead all the time it might be an easier fix. Any advice would be much appreciated.
I have an lg 42lb5d where the screen comes on 70% of the time but when it doesn't you still have audio but no picture. Turn the TV off/on 2-8x and the picture will come back. Do you think it would be a similar issue as this TV? Would a heat gun on low heat (at the right distance) do the trick as the bulb?
