Liberty Safe Pry Test 

Nope. The door is flared to prevent a grinder from getting to the gaps and the bolts are 1 and a half inch of super hardened steel. It would take HOURS to even get 2 bolts cut. And anyone with sense would have it bolted into the floor in a position that would make it virtually impossible to reach the sides and back.

Emperor Of Mankind you just cut a hole in the side

@@jamessummerlin9070 no this is one of more expensive safes that work that safe is something like 10 grand even with grinder your gunna have alot of difficulty this is the presidential model not cheap stuff you get at homedepot.

Yup, it only would have taken a real bar and some effort and that sucker would have been open. The door was flexing and the light weight frame would have quickly given in. Total BS. They really didn't build any meaningful ant pry protection into those safes beyond the anti pry tabs which wouldn't have helped much.

Mad you can't afford a Liberty Safe?

K B your right that’s why! You got me Sherlock!!

I've delivered/installed a bunch of Liberty safes, including every size Presidential & I can promise you they are very well made. Also, their warranty is awesome. If your safe is ever attacked they'll give you another free. I've delivered/installed a few warranty replacements & so far none were breached. Nothing is burglar proof & nothing is fire proof but Liberty safes are worth every penny, that's why I have two.

@@renaissanceman7145 Why have 2 separate safes instead of their Fatboy model? Different uses?

@@shockwave6213 I have a total of 5 safes. #1 35 cuft Cannon in the garage holds my telescope, mount & all accessories right next to my truck because it's really heavy. #2 25 cuft American Security holds all my ammo. Next to it is #3 25 cuft National Security which holds powder, primers & ammo overflow. Ammo & powder safes have a 1" hole drilled through the top to vent any pressure. They are in the "safe room" which is under the master bath so water supply lines are also over the safes. Three safe room walls are concrete while the fourth has 3 layers of fire rated sheetrock on the inside, 2 layers of 3/4" plywood that's been glued & screwed on the outside & a steel door with a deadbolt & one of those Master locks that is a bit bigger than a hockey puck. Also in the safe room is #4 a 35 cuft Liberty Lincoln 35 which holds all guns, optics, some accessories like choke tubes & empty magazines. Finally #5 is another Liberty Lincoln but a 25 cuft in the bedroom. It holds all my knives cameras, camera lenses, video cameras, tablet & whatever else I can find a spot. All 5 are bolted to a 6" high platform that's roughly 2" bigger than the safe footprint in front & sides & the platform is bolted to the floor. That's a lot more than you bargained for I'm sure but hopefully it will give someone some ideas that I hope will help them. The best reasons for multiple smaller safes rather than one that's big enough to hold everything is, more targets means a thief must spend more time trying to get your stuff. Smaller safes are less money so buying another hurts the wallet less. Not everyone can afford to pay me to move their safe(s) and the smaller ones are easier to move, especially up or down stairs.

@@renaissanceman7145 Wow.... Thanks for the insight. I was thinking of having a vault room with a couple bigger safes with a fire suppression system installed. It would double as a panic room too. The vent hole for the ammo stuff is great. Kinda the same thinking as the blowout panels on the Abrams tank.

@@shockwave6213 Yeah, the ammo & powder safes are fire lined but their interiors could reach cook off temps so venting is required. My water supply lines are copper so those joints will melt but not the pipe (hopefully) allowing some water to rain on the three.There's all kinds of little things you could incorporate into the overall that will serve to slow a thief more. For example the steel door on my safe room opens in, hiding the hinges. (of course, duh!) Also the threshold is 3" high & unless you came prepared for that it would take forever to get a safe over it. That's after you pull it's bolts out of concrete.

Nope

Would not matter whether it is a safe or a residential security container tests have been shown on $10,000 safes they can be broken into in less than 20 minutes

@@KB-kw8ni 20 minutes would meet UL TL-15 requirements. In many locations, 20 minutes is more than enough for security or police to respond to the situation.

Its def NOT a cheap safe...if you ever shop for safe and do your research, look and compare. The materials are def not cheap. The liberty safes are heavier, thicker, and the bolts are thicker. And depending on model you choose...it’s fire rated. I’m not saying they’re the best, but def not cheap quality.

Hater

@@KB-kw8ni I do hate crappy products who's primary scheme is marketing yes. Thanks for noticing.

What’s a good brand

@@sageywavey Sturdy Safe. Best for the money. Pay for the reasonably priced upgrade and get 4 gauge body...(which is quarter inch). My .02

@@barguymicheal Wow buddy. Those things are serious. I can’t afford that right now and I’m not a homeowner but if I’m ever in a better financial situation I’m going to buy one for sure. Thanks!!!