Good video and agree on the baffle points you made. A couple of other things to consider. On the "hood or not". Something to consider is if you're using a sleeping bag or a quilt. If you're using a quilt and plan on wearing the jacket as a upper layer/head covering you'll want to go with the hoodie. That's probably a useful thing to think about. The other one, and one that bothers me since I have "t-rex arms" is elastic around the wrists. Nothing worse than having the arms droop down over your hands especially when you're trying to light your stove. I'm puzzled as to why more jacket manufacturers don't consider better wrist closures/designs. Tx again for the guidance - really super!
Thank you The bottom hem has come apart on a down jacket and a down vest The jacket was not double lined lost all the down in that area. The vest was double lined, no loss of any down Plus I could see interior construction. 🤺💐
I deliberate signed in just to like this video. Thanks for solving the long time mystery about why my hooded down jacket was not warm enough. I'm getting a no-hood one next!
Jambeesuave I watch this video about a year ago and it helped me a bunch for the very reason you’re saying and I try to tell people that all the time now. It really is a revelation that your neck will be warmer without a hood.
Jambeesuave my system is it travail jacket from Northface 800 fill and no hood with a north face summit series goretex for water and wind with a hood. A knit cap and a down jacket will do great if no rain.
Great point about the hems. Personally, I went with a Montbell U.L. without a drawstring (weight saving geek that I am). I had a pleat sewn in on either side of the waist so that is fit my body without drafting. The pleat was really just a simple 1/4" fold and a stitch. It's lasted 2 years & many trekking miles.
The part where u say to go trough the jacket as the first thing are a really good advice, i learned that the hard way, when I bought a jacket online, after i recieved it i tried it, everything looked as it should be. Put it in the closet, and after 2 month it was time to wear it for the specific weather conditions, then later that day my friend spotted a little hole on back, its barely noticeable but when u know its there u can see it. I couldn't even return it because after that long it is not covered, had only 30 day to return it. Lesson learned!!
Great video and very helpful advice. I'm in Australia and looking at buying my first down jacket. It'll be very helpful to go into the stores now and at least have half an idea of what to look for. Thumbs up!
Always find it interesting to compare on paper results to what you actually end up ordering outdoors. Valid points on hood vs. Non. But I'll never buy a puffer without one.
I remember when big puffer down jackets first became popular in the mid 70s. All the rich kids in high school were wearing L.L. Bean down puffers. The only color choice back then was navy blue and it was the first time I ever saw ripstop nylon on clothing (those big old quarter inch ripstop squares). We would've freaked out if we saw the shiney, space suit-like, mini ripstop, mini baffle down jackets popular right now (but these light jackets wouldn't have worked in the sub 20F winter temps we had).
A thought on the baffles.... you pointed out the seams are an extra spot for heat to leave. But the point of the seam is to hold the down in it's own little cage so it doesn't move around. So if the down were to get moist, or as it degrades over time, the ones with more baffles would hold up longer? Just my thought :D
good point on hood vs not hood as far as a hood being down provides less protection. i feel like any insulator should have a hood. baselayers and mayve a light fleece ill leave off the hood for less bulk.
The BEST thing is to go for a jacket that has a collar AND a (detachable) hood, for general purpose, like the Marmot Stockholm... one of the greatest jackets I ever had, better than the Nuptse...
@@Shill_assassin BS! You need to inform yourself better! I have two down jackets with pit zips. A Mountain Hardwear and an Outdoor Research. And the latter also has underarm panels. Seen MANY more at stores over the last 15-20 years.
@@emiller9426 But why? The whole point of a down jacket is to retain heat within. Why would someone design a pit zip? Not only does it add extra weight but with a shell on top it becomes completely useless. Breathability is decided by the material rather than pit zips.
Well, for casual use I went for a hooded jacket, as a midlayer. Hardshell won't have a warm enough hood to be usefull, and for some just wearing the hat, might not be enough.
WARNING: i bought my Triple F.A.T. Goose (TFG) jacket online, new with tags, and assumed it was from an overstock seller or such. i need a replacement fur ruff and called TFG to buy one. jason, at TFG, told that since i didnt buy the jacket directly from them that they wouldnt sell me one. they wouldnt honor their warranty either. what company wouldnt sell a new fan of their gear a new ruff, or new hood, drawstring, ect., if they had lost or damaged one, and was wanting to pay for it theirself? i was really excited owning and wearing this jacket, but now am left with a sense of not wanting to wear the jacket with pride... in a company that treats their customers this way.
look out....the sleeping bag...quilt industery is making a ponch adapter so the bag or quilt doubles as a regular poncho, elimenating the need for a jacket....
Sherin Moghazy probably depends on the brand but most if you order your normal size it will be slim enough to layer over but can still wear a sweater or base layers underneath
Great reviews. I have really broad shoulders and lats. Which jacket would fit a more athletic fit for a large chested guy? Will the Mountain hardware be too tight in XL? Was looking at the Rab and the Patagonia as well, but would like your best thoughts. Which would be a looser fit especially for across the back where most things fit too tight for me? I'm 5'10 220lbs. Thanks,
What about about the temperature range of these jackets? I was looking at a very light weight Hawke&co and wondered how cool the outdoor temperature could be and still provide warm.
Good information. My question is, when shopping for a mid layer down jacket / vest and being between sizes, is it better to go small and let the jacket be a bit snug or bigger and let it be loose?
I tend to go loose. I hike all seasons and in and extreme (like benighted) case I like the Idea that I can wear a light fleece under my down and put my shell on over it all.
Jim, wouldn't a firm fit ensure the garment insulates so well, a fleece underneath is redundant? Otherwise you would just wear a thicker down to begin with.
Probably size up.. you don’t want the down to be compressed because it won’t hold heat in the air pockets.. ideally you want it to fit snugly but not so snuggly that the down looses its “puffyness”
I really like the videos of this channel. All they are very useful and informative but this "hiss" all the time it's reaaally annoying. Please get a go pro or something like :)
Can you tell me what kind of winter coat that Putin opponent navaly was wearing in russia? I saw a few russian protesters wearing them as well and I wanted to know what brand kind of coat they were wearing cause I think they looked cool. I don't like baffle coats they remind me of space 1999 or s pace oddesy. Please respond via the comments section here please.
Fantastic information! a confused newbie here and i have several questions: 1. is lightweight down jacket meant to replace fleece? most of the model seems like a slim fitting and does not leave much space to underneath layering. 2. does it make sense to layer using fleece underneath lightweight jacket ? or warmth is more optimized if placed next to skin? 3. provided no rain/dry, will this jacket function as outer layer? or this is a specific mid layer jacket (meaning more optimized if used as midlayer)? thank you
I've been researching like crazy and from what I can tell, ultralight down jackets are specifically meant to replace a fleece. However, it's all personal choice, I plan on wearing a very thing fleece under the UL jacket I'm going to purchase. More layering always equals more warmth, however it does seem like some of these jackets are an extreme slim fit which might make it hard to layer. I'm going to get the Montbell UL Down Parka and it seems perfect for layering. All these down jackets will do fine as an outer layer if the weather is good, but you'll need a rain jacket over it if it's raining/snowing
1. Yes, unless for winter where you might want both if benighted. 2. I believe the science would say more layers (thickness) generally means higher R-value (insulation). I have never read that warmth is optimized if placed next to the skin. Most of my friends wear a wicking high-teck layer next to the skin. 3. My Mont Bell Ultralite does not seem to stop wind at all and so if it is both cold and windy feel I must put on a wind or rain shell over it for it to be effective.
Simon Powell Most "good" sleeping bags use a boxwall baffle design. All of these jackets use a sewn threw baffle design because they have 2 - 4 ounces of down fill. Some top of the line jackets designed for very cold weather due use boxwall baffles.
Anyone know if it’s possible for someone to unstitch a vintage down jacket and add more feathers? I have one and it’s super rare. 20 years old and one of the areas seems to have less down than the other parts of the jacket. Like feathers have slowly come out over the years Please help
Bware of "down" jackets/pillows. These products contain the feathers from birds that have been pinned down and had their feathers literally ripped out of their skin. The birds are left bleeding with their skin torn apart. The process is repeated every 6 weeks.
