Thanks for presenting the benefits of wool. I am a professional handspinner. I take issue with your description of wool. Merino is one breed of sheep. There are 200 sheep breeds who also produce wool. Merino like cashmere is soft but very fragile. Will snap, break, get holes quite easily. It the wool's equivalent to silk. Now, I am sure silk is not the first choice for rugged outdoors. Merino has marketed itself as a stand out in the wool world. However, other breeds of sheep that produce wool are often dumped into a generalize 'wool pool' where the good, bad and ugly get blended. Ergo, why wool is 'scratchy'. Think burlap. I spin distinct breeds to benefit from their unique properties. I spin, knit, weave wool (and many other fibers). Only sheep produce wool. Wool defines a particular hair structure unique to sheep. Whereas, cashmere is as you say the undercoat of cashmere goats. But mohair is also a goat hair. Mohair is very strong but it is not called wool. It is called 'fiber'. Same with qiviut (yes have spun that), again that is not wool but the undercoat of musk ox and is called 'fiber'. Softer is luxury but weak and impractical esp for hard outerwear. Layering with the softer base layers but as you go out get stronger wools is desirable. And in order of wind resistance from most to least: boiled wool (felt), woven wool, knitted wool. As one who has lived in Russia, at a certain low temp people switched from wools yarns to furs and pelts. A sheep's skin coat will keep you warm, dry, and wind protected. But you are interested in the wool yarns used to make fabrics. Please contact me if you have other questions.
*5 YEARS AGO I TOOK UP TAILORING* of men's historical suits and clothing for the aesthetic - I quickly discovered that WOOL is a literal wonder material. Personally, I like an oily wool with good texture and a sturdy feel to it.
@@piccalillipit9211 oily wool was for outer oats or sailors. And you could never dye oily wool as oil repels the dyes . Maybe you mean the coarser wools?
@@suem6004 No, I literally mean the oily undyed wools woven in their natural colours - or knitted in their natural colours. I have a wonderful tweed jacket where the base colour is naturally brown and the over checks are dyed, I absolutely love it. Its vintage, they are so hard to get these days. Dougdale Brothers in Huddersfield do black and white but I cant find brown. After that I like vintage cloth woven on the old mechanical looms, it has a different hand and drapes better. I now live in Bulgaria and lots is still available here, Im not a fan of the modern thin highly finished cloth.
I have used Gore-Tex for years as an environmental (outer layer), jackets and pants. It's fantastic in rain and wind and it breathes pretty well. The downsides are it's a bit heavy and noisy if you are hunting. To save money, buy military surplus gear. Hope that helps. @@ryanwightman9590
@@ryanwightman9590 In my experience Gore-Tex is a great product, if you take care of it. It needs to be cleaned and treated correctly for it benefits to really shine. But the good stuff is really expensive. It is however not very good for the environment, and more sustainable products are being rolled out by companies like Patagonia. I haven’t had a chance to test them yet, but my next jacket will be one made with more sustainable materials. I live on the west coast of Norway, with the North Sea, mountains, fjords and forests, so it’s a very wet and windy place. It can go from sunshine to rain to snow in the space of 5 minutes . We have a saying that if you don’t like the weather just wait 5 minutes and it will change. A breathable wind and water resistant jacket paired with layers of wool is a must.
@@dtaylor10chuckufarle Same here. Also have worked in Montana and N Dakota when it's 30 below with a 20 mph wind. Was the only person wearing wool , and the only one that didn't freeze my arse off. And yes, a shell is great when it rains. Wore merino wool underlayer(s), layered wool socks, wool shirt, and wool pants.
Semper Fi fellow Marine, like to add there’s a reason why the military uses wool from blankets to clothing. Military surplus stores are a good place to purchase wool items
Wool is so old school. Merino is good for base layer. Wool has soo many downsides. I did not see anyone using it in ages. Fleece is so much superior. Did not mention non down insulation options for wet climates.
Spendy, but worth every penny. Your Grandkids will be wearing it years from now. thank you Skinnykid for watching. I really appreciate it. Happy New Year!
I love how quickly you warm up with down. Toasty warm. Plus, for carrying in the pack. Lightweight and very packable! Thank you Yeakerr for watching. Much appreciated!
I like that despite all of the technical feats we have achieved, we still cannot create synthetic fibers that are better than natural fibers. The only way synthetics win is durability, ie nylon and kevlar. I never liked fleece because it does not feel nice like plush merino, and I never found it to be much use in the cold.
A great tip for soaking wet wool is to lay it flat on a bath towel, roll up the towel into a log, and then walk up and down on that to press the water out of the wool and into the towel. The wool is much lighter afterwards and stretches less when hung up to dry.
I laid my expensive merino wool out on a log to dry in the wilderness. Got chewed up by squirrels or something when I was away from camp. I'm assuming whatever it was has a nice winter nest thanks to me lol. Just something to consider nothing else got chewed up.
Hanging your wool garments in the bathroom whilst you have a shower or bath will help clean them from any steam produced without it getting overly wet. Being a natural fiber, water will naturally move to the ends of the fiber cleaning them.
When I was in high school and that was a while ago, I worked for an outfitting company. We were taught that wool kept 80% of its thermal property when wet, but took longer to dry than synthetic fleece. Synthetic fleece on the other hand, kept 20% of its thermal properties, but dried far faster than wool. We were taught to preach this to customers and to advise them to always wear both, either a fleece undershirt with a wool sweater, or a wool undershirt with a fleece sweater. This way they got the best of both should they get wet. Having plunged through a frozen creek on a night hike in 25f weather I can attest to that idea having some merit. I wore fleece underwear and a heavy wool sweater and was warm by the time we got a fire going. My rag wool socks in GoreTex boots had my feet warm within minutes. Down on the other hand was the icing on the cake assuming you got the under-layers correct. Later on Gore-Tex and thinsulate came on the scene and changed how we advised folks for cold weather gear. We were also taught that keeping one’s core warm would help keep one’s extremities warm. That never worked for me, being long and spindly. For me keeping my head, neck and feet warm was and is primary, my core secondary and my arms and legs tertiary. We are all built differently and some methods are counter intuitive so try stuff to see what works for you. The best advice I ever got was to test out gear in one’s back yard on the coldest nights of the year to actually see how they do in the dark without the radiation of the sun helping things. If you can sleep outside on the coldest nights then you are in very good shape, but if you can’t then you start to understand the limitations of your gear and can head inside for some hot chocolate. Thanks for the vid, you brought me back to simpler times and I learned something. I really need to get one of those nice down jackets to impress. Be blessed and stay safe.
There are diverging opinions on core vs extremities and it is very application dependent. Example: I keep getting shown clips of the 2018 Boston Marathon, which was 35 F with 30 mph winds and rain. The good cold weather runners tended to insulate their arms with compression sleeves (it's like cutting the sleeves off a baselayer and wearing them on your arms) and gloves, but their only other bit of non-summer gear was a hat. They were insulating the parts of their body with high surface area to volume and doing almost nothing to anything else. Personally, I start losing a lot of heat through my hands once my gloves get saturated.
@@hypothalapotamus5293 everyone is built differently. Some folks bleed heat while others capture it. Body shape, fat deposits, weight, height, overall mass, muscle tone, circulatory system, hair density to name the obvious all have a part to play. It’s not so much what’s the leading theory of the time but more what is the leading factors that work for you. The only way to know is to observe what works for you.
*5 YEARS AGO I TOOK UP TAILORING* of men's historical suits and clothing for the aesthetic - I quickly discovered that WOOL is a literal wonder material.
Wool is naturally flame resistant and offers a greater level of fire safety than other fibres. In addition, wool does not melt, drip or stick to the skin when it burns. (IWTO International Wool Trade Organisation)
One thing you didn't mention with wool is the desire of bugs to eat it. If you're using it for in the woods, I would treat the outside with permitherin. Alternatively, when you come back from a trip, stick it in the freezer for a couple days, then warm it back up for a couple days (this will cause eggs to hatch), and then back in the freezer to kill whatever hatched. If it's not getting much use between trips, store in a cotton bag (so it breathes, because wool WILL mold) to keep bugs off. If you do get little holes, you can needle felt a patch in quite easily.
I live in the UK, and carpet moths are native here (they like to eat wool and make these little cocoons for themselves, like little sleeping bags that they haul around to keep safe in), so even if you clear a house of them they inevitably get back in. One thing I've found that's amazing to kill off the carpet moths is cedar essential oil, a couple of drops on a bit of card or whatever, in the corner of a draw or box or something that can be closed to limit air flow (but not sealed for the sake of the clothes), will keep anything in there carpet moth free for months. I add another drop or two every 4 to 6 months or so, though that is likely overkill (better safe then sorry). I don't know if it will work for other wool-eaters but given cedar also works to deter fleas, a very unrelated creature, I think it's worth a try. However, if you have pets you need to be careful about exposing them to the oil or it's scent, as many essential oils are toxic to animals, some more then others (likewise with many synthetic scents for that matter - beware are fresheners and room fragrances). I've read that some cedars are worse then others for pet toxicity, and some might even be tolerated fine in small doses, but I can't remember which (also check dog vs cats vs birds vs other, tolerances by species vary). For an essential oil and chemical free method to help try and keep them under control in your home (aside from freezing methods and careful use of storage bags), you can use feathers as a decoy - feathers are the food carpet moths in particular originally evolved to eat and prefer, they go mad for it (it wouldn't surprise me if other wool eaters do too). Keep a bundle of feathers in a large jar with the sides covered so the inside is dark with easy access through the top. The feathers need to be densely packed enough that it feels cozy in there, sheltered from a moths POV, and I unusually leave the quills poking out the top. Every couple of weeks, go in and pick out any larvae that have hatched and either throw them out away from anything they can eat, or just crush them (that's why I leave the quills poking out the top, makes pulling the feathers out to pick out the larvae).
Wool is far superior to fleece. Better wind protection. Keeps you warm, even when wet. Much more durable. Also doesn't retain smell anywhere near as much as fleece.
I’ve used both wool and fleece and found fleece dries much quicker and provides more warmth as it doesn’t retain water as well as wool. One thing I don’t like about fleece is how fast it melts if embers land on it, or if you ignite your pack stove and your sleeve is too close, it’s about as fire retardant as cotton candy.
The smell is bad with fleece too right? I guess it's not as much of aa problem since you wear an underlayer between the fleece, but when I wear a polyester t shirt, I stink within hours vs no smell with a cotton t shirt.
Well being 71 years old and having been born and raised up in northern Minnesota I've always preferred 100% wool. Been hard to find 100 percent wool though for a lot of years.
It is becoming harder to find at the resale shops also. I have several Woolrich sweaters and some wool shirts I purchased from them. A sears field master is my best. I haven't seen any for sale for a few years though. (Wool blankets are also best)
I live only 10 miles from the village of Woolrich Pennsylvania ... Unfortunately they have stopped completely producing their amazing wool products...and sold out to some outfit in Italy...A sad day when that happened...
@@billfrederickfrederick2791 As a baby boomer , I grew up w/ & have always loved Woolrich ! I've a black turtleneck sweater that is about 30 yrs. old & other than a very slight color fade , in mint condition .
These days, I buy my wool sweaters from Aran Sweater Market in Ireland. They are better than anything I've found in the States. And sometimes my mother gives me a locally produced machine knitted "jumper" (aka sweater) when I go home to visit her in Australia. I've got a bunch of Pendleton wool shirts, which are very good. Usually layer them with a merino wool t-shirt by Wool & Prince or Woolx. I really wish that Woolrich could have kept going. One of these days, I'd like to try something from Duckworth, which is a Montana Merino wool company.
@@billfrederickfrederick2791 Damn, that is sad news. One of my favorite winter shirts is a plaid wool Woolrich. Probably 45 years old, still keeping me warm. :)
I taught mountaineering for years on month long expeditions. Wool was the way to go. Never used a rain jacket unless sitting in camp as it locks in the moisture. A wind proof parka over your wool will let you keep hiking in the rain and wind and let all your sweat evaporate out. Synthetic sleeping bags over down as if you take a swim by accident the synthetic will dry ,but the down will be two sheets of nylon with nothing in between,
You are so right. In a couple of weeks I will being talking about a shell over wool or fleece. Even for down around the fire. I am very careful keeping my down protected for water. Two sheets of nylon is worthless for warmth. Thank you Johnwood for sharing that. Good stuff!
Was that 30 years ago? Wool is totally out of mountaineering and has been out for decades! I have not seen anyone use wool (merino) for anything other than base layer. Also for high altitude mountaineering all sleeping bags are down. I just came back from 6 week expedition.
FYI the quality of a made-in-the-UK wool shirt of the 1950s was unbelievable, there is nothing of this quality in this era. double wool layered and silk lined. Sir Every and Sherpa Norguay climbed Everest in wool.
@@alexwyler4570 Yes they did and this is why it was much harder climb than climbing of today. I believe they still had leather boots as well and possibly wood ice axes. Now no one or very few people climb 8000ers with wool as something other then base layer and socks. I did wear all wool socks on 8000er. But nothing else made of wool.
I would agree with all that for extreme conditions of intense cold. But for most hiking and climbing in the relatively warm but persistently wet Pacific Northwest (Washington State), wool has huge advantages. Still, I have down sleeping bags. Only on one week long Nordic ski trip did condensation dripping on my sleeping bag night after night greatly reduce it's effectiveness. As always, you need the judgement and experience to choose wisely for the trips you make.
As a perpetually cold person stuck living in a country that is a frozen hell 2/3 of the year, I am a huge appreciator of wool. I basically live my life in it from late fall to spring. Wool sweaters, in layers, thick wool socks, big fat wool blankets.. Fleece is great too, but tends to not look as nice so I wear that at home and the wool at work. And though perhaps too heavy for woodland adventuring, but from my experience the warmest thing ever is sheepskin. My winter coat is thick heavy sheepskin. When standing around in the wind waiting for the bus in the morning and its -25 with wind chill, that wind blows right at me and I don't even feel it. I put that thing on it feels like it radiates heat. Unbeatable. I've had the obscenely expensive down jackets too. They're pretty good but sheepskin is still warmer.
Can confirm. I live in an incredibly cold and snowy area, and I have some mittens that are made of sheepskin. Most comfortable and warming things in my entire winter wear collection.
Excellnt advice. However, since I live in the Mojave Desert, keeping dry or warm isn't usually the issue. Bamboo clothing provieds good sun blocking, is very soft and is excellent for hot summer desert travel.
Linen would work well; so would a wool and linen blend. Wool and linen have historically been the fibers used to keep comfortable in various temperatures
For sheer warmth, I raze you a sheep skin coat - suede on the outside and the wool on the inside. Nothing I've ever tried is so warm. I live in the UK, so it doesn't get very cold here but sometimes our winters at least try to flex a bit so it can get cold. On the coldest day I've ever had here I wore a sheep skin coat and I wound up having to open it up and take my hat off to cool down after an hour walk, it did the job too well (I even had an ice cream once I got to my destination, outside, in the snow, and it was fantastic, it felt remarkably appropriate). The outside of the coat is suede so it's as waterproof as that and could be further waterproofed by oiling and treating the seams. Down side is they are large, bulky, heavy, and can't be compressed - but oh wowza are they warm!
The layers thing was drilled into us as kids in Boy Scouts, and now that I've gotten a lot more active outside in all seasons and weather, I've found it to be so true. It's also good to get out and "practice" with different layers in different conditions. Sometimes, I'll carry fleece, down, and a shell with a base layer and also take two or three pairs of gloves on a winter hike. If I'm moving uphill, it has to be pretty cold for me to have more than an insulated base layer. If I stop, or it starts to snow, or even if I start hiking downhill, I sometimes need to layer up again. I also love the fleece layers for something like cycling in the cold - the wind cuts through and carries all of the sweat away, but it's enough of a layer to keep you from the total wind chill.
This is so true. Fleece on, fleece off and up the mountain minimal clothes unless there is a cold cutting wind then it can be that I change to the shell jackets with vents open and so on.
12:45 "My grandpappy told me that alpaca is fleece! Haven't you ever heard "Mary had a little lamb, it's fleece was white as snow"? COME ON, MAN!!!" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I work outside doing hard physical work often in the worst weather (Wet, around freezing and windy) 4 years ago i bought 2X wool British army surplus jumpers for £20 each online. I still own and wear them at work. Extremely thick, warm even in the wet, and tough. There's lots avaliable online. Best outdoor clothing I've ever bought by a mile. I'll be buying again soon.
@kapapatence6423 Search "British army surplus green/navy wool jumper" there's loads of army surplus sites that sell them. It's the one with patches on the shoulders and elbows
I work a trade(electric ) , I'm often outside in bad weather. Grandpa was an army officer, I grew up with a wool army blanket in my bed. Nothing beats a good pair of wool socks on your feet. And a wool blanket is warm even when wet.
A lot of jackets are made out of those wool Army blankets. The one that I was wearing is one of them. Thank you DeadCat-42 for sharing that. much appreciated!
Cheers! Wool has always been my choice. For clothing and a sleep system. I live on the West Coast of Canada...doesn't really get cold but it does get wet. Appreciate your video - humour included. - Semper Fi - (Canadian Coast Guard. Retired)
NOTHING is a substitue for wool. You did not mention the extreemly violent methods used to harvest down. Not fun for Hungarian and Chinese ducks and geese.
Should also mention linen, which was traditionally worn as a base layer and has great thermal properties so can be worn in the cold and heat with comfort. It gets stronger when wet, softer when well-worn. It has anti-bacterial properties and wicks better than cotton. Great to wear under scratchy wool.
I wear a silk shirt under my wool. Avoids scratching from wool, dries super fast. Light. Many of the same properties of wool, but lighter. Not as durable though.
if you want to avoid wool clothes from losing their form after washing you should dry them laying flat. and to be sure that nothing bad happens to them, wash with hand! great video!
Here in New England, a base layer underneath my Icelandic wool sweater is a winning combo. Throw on a Bean packable down jacket and you’re good to go. Great video sir, subscribed!
Before going hiking it's a good idea to do (what I like to call) 'the doorway test'. You have on your wool/woolmix base layer (or the singe layer clothes you are gonna hike in, in the summer) and test how warm you will be in them. You do that by simply opening the door and let the cold air and breeze do their effect. You stand there in 5-15 sec to see how fast and how cold you get and. That way you can dress for the weather and activity level. Then you can feel the different stages of 'cold': the "I need a windproof layer" cold, "it will be okay if I'm active" cold, or "need another layer while active" cold. If you are going to hike, you should feel a little cold, but never a 'biting' cold. You should always have more clothes with you for when you rest and cool down or for when the temperature drop. You can also do this in the car, though a little more tiresome to dress yourself. It's also a good idea to only wear one layer of clothes in the car, since the inside of the car is warmer than the outside. That way you can dress yourself warm instead of "freezing" in all your layer for a good while. And have your base shirt tucked into your base pants. It's the most secure method to not get a cold leak around your stomach and butt area.
I agree with most of that but you’re better off taking a 5-15 MINUTE walk outside as opposed to a 5-15 SECOND “test” standing in your doorway. It’s not just how cold you are when inactive but how warm you get and how much you perspire when active.
@@AclockworkPurple I might have not written it good enough, but yes, what matters is how warm you are while active. That's why I do the doorway test to find the minimum amount of clothes I believe I can have on in the activity level I will do. In those 15 sec I can get an estimation if I have too much clothes on or too little clothes on. For instance I feel I am warm enough for a slow walk, but too toasty for a fast walk or run. Or the cold wind is so strong that I think I will have a problem staying warm enough even if I run, so I have to put on more clothes or put on windproof clothes. Of course you can take a small walk too, but this is just a quick trick to do right before you actually leave the house/car. Of course it isn't fail proof.😬
Thanks for covering this! If you ever do an update, I’d recommend another con for wool: moths. I lost several merino wool Ts and sweaters to these little buggers. Store your wool safely👍
I grew up in Australia, where we wear a lot of wool. Best to hand-wash wool with very mild washing liquid. If you must put it in the machine, only use the delicates setting and only cold water. Lay it flat, on towels, to dry. These days, I live in Utah and spend a lot of time hiking in the Wasatch and Uinta mountains. When hiking, I wear a Merino wool base layer and carry a down jacket in my pack, along with a waterproof shell to put over the top of it. I find that I sweat too much if I'm wearing fleece while hiking, but I often start out the hike wearing one until I warm up. If I'm going to be standing around fishing, I wear a heavy wool sweater because nothing beats it - usually one from the Aran Sweater Market in Ireland.
At 74 i still have pure wool jumpers handknitted by my mum decades ago. Cant beat it for heat. Hand wash and hand rinse essential Squeeze to dry out Or put into pillowcsae to spin for only a couple of minutes. Lay flat to dry Mohair especially from the kids is incredibly warm. Also can vacuum pack it or just squeeze into airtight bag to reduce size by same as down. Tensile strength is higher than steel. But soooo light Wash same as wool. From angora goats South Africa. Eastern Cape. Exported worldwide. Incredible blankets too for bed or sitting in your chair. Because of the high heat properties, but extremely low weight it has been found highly beneficial for older people who have difficulties in keeping warm. While the adult mohair may be found to be a little bit scratchy, the mohair from the kids is softer than Marino wool.
When I backpacked the Blue Ridge mountains in late fall and early spring/late winter, I wore wool. It was warm even if wet and it rained a lot up there. A light windproof LL Bean anorak over it was great when needed.
I have had a couple of LL Bean anoraks and they have worked beautifully. Coupled with some wool as an insulator, I have been quite comfortable when hiking/mtn biking.
I have a 30 year old DOWN coat. Longer than a jacket so covers the butt but not any longer. As a thin cold guy it makes a difference & if i look like a bum oh well...warmth 1st. I've lost a lot of down stuffing & cuffs have holes, still warm. Can be sprayed to make waterproof & has a light partial cloth liner that is warmer than ones without. I have heavier, longer, shorter...this one works best. Unsure of name but was made in USA & can be found on eBay at times, soet if a stitched bird logo. I should buy a newer one. It can be worn in the woods & not tear. The outside cats love 1 that was not right for me & was accidentally left out. I had down sleeping bags... they were HOT! Stolen, oh well. Nothinh wrong with buying used.
Most of my cold weather clothing is old. ( pac boots that I bought in 1988 ) and very old ( wool pants from Grandpa made in the 1940s or early 50s ). Sometimes the old is better than the new. Thank you Jakekot for sharing that. I really appreciate it.
I camp ALoT and I LOVE my wool clothing for warmth and my down sleep gear for my hammock. I also have a down hood that I sleep in ( best $20 I ever spent). It’s nice to have options.
Mountain and road rider down into the 20's. Windproof shell with pit zips to get the sweat out, old cashmere sweater, wool zip neck turtleneck. Base layer, one short sleeve, and one long synthetic. Fleece is to bulky and not as warm as the cashmere, and puff jackets too warm wnen active. It's always the feet and hands that limit time on the road. That and the water bottle freezing!
Merino wool socks are the bomb ! So comfortably thick and soft in boots. So you get no blisters or calluses. Naturally moisture wicking and antibacterial. So your feet won’t stink when you take them off.
**** FLEECE **** When soaking wet, you just squeeze the water out and once that is done you just fling it/shaking it around violently and the water droplets will fly off of it leaving it damp and you warm. Only thing you missed. I used to wear fleece everyday working outside in a greenhouse/nursery job in the pouring rain here in PNW. Yes eventually I went with waterproofs, but until then fleece dries by just violently shaking it out. Otherwise, great description of the fibers. Wool for the win if you ask me for anything other than long endurance hiking and high exertion activities where you want the breathability of fleece. Down sucks, sorry, it does. Expensive too.
Wool is useless wet. Moist wool is good, but wet? Useless. Once those hairs get water inside them they lose their warmth and worse suck heat from you. Only a true waterproof barrier over wool will make wool viable. Fleece in same conditions does not care, you just fling the water off the fleece and keep moving. It is always condition specific. Now if only I could afford wool baselayer other than 2 shirts which are fairly fragile. @@BeautifuLakesStreamsBiologists
@@w8stral Considering wool releases heat as energy in the process of absorbing water I kind of find your response ignorant. Also you should do some research on waterproof materials, and what they actually prevent from occurring
I strongly recommend wool fans to read “The Brendan Voyage” by Tim Severin if you haven’t already done so, they took HH modern (at the time) waterproof sailing gear, but as a nod to the Irish Monks whose footprints they were treading in they also took raw wool tunics as well, the wool worked exceptionally well, given that it wasn’t taken too seriously to begin with, well worth a read, preferably beside a fire, in the dry this winter. Stay safe folks.
Wool has been proven in a number of tests to maintain more heat when wet than any other fabric. it is also MUCH easier to deodorize than ANY synthetic. Just put it out in the sun when you get home.
For the December muzzleloader elk season, I use a silk/wool blend as my base. Followed by a poly fleece zip front turtleneck and fleece bottom and then heavy wool, button front shirt and wool bibs and a heavy weight wool parka. There’s too much snow to mess with keeping a fire, so it’s my layering that keeps me comfortable. It’s too cold to be concerned about rain so I don’t bother with any rain gear. A rip stop poncho is in my pack along with a 6 mil poly drum liner for any unexpected overnight that might happen. Wool may be heavy but it’s quiet, durable, wind resistant and not easily damaged by fire on early winter campfires. My parka can come off if I get too hot and the other layers allow lots of options for additional ventilation. I’ve tried the down stuff, it’s noisy, easily damaged, easily ruined by embers and sparks and stupid expensive for something so delicate. I absolutely agree that there’s definitely activities that favor the down and synthetic choices but it’s just too dang delicate and I don’t own any now. Loved it when I was a snow skier but not for anything else. I’m not into the “fashion” scene of quilted down, like the metro-sexual city dwellers. I have a similar fleece setup over silk/wool base layer for cool to cold weather, but for frigid weather…wool works best for bushwhacking through brush and forest. Hard to beat multiple layers of fleece for the appropriate weather conditions. But a rain jacket in the pack is a must . Super quiet, crazy warm, light weight, soft and fairly durable, and if you’re around a fire, less damage from sparks compared to down/synthetics. Lots of interesting comments on this video. Great overview 👍
Down has a huge draw-back in that it's sewn into polyester fabric which melts (into the skin) when on fire. After watching a friend of mine go up in flames because a spark landed on his down jacket, and the healing aftermath of 5 surgeries, skin grafts and having his torso, arm and face disfigured for the rest of his life, I'll never wear man-made materials near a campfire again. Until they start making fiberglass jackets, I'll only wear all natural fibers near fire, period.
Great video. But in the end... its wool for me. If youre wearing it its not weight, if its in your pack, its weight and bulk. Still... ill stick with wool.
When winter rolls in. Guess what is my number one fiber that I am wearing. And I am in temperatures that are in the -40° below zero. Thank you 43Lugan for watching. I really appreciate it.
My problem with synthetic fleece is that, where I live, the wind is almost always blowing, and that means it blows right through the fleece, robbing it of any thermal value. Wool almost always works better. Fleece has to have a windproof shell of some sort before fleece is any good for me. As for down, I picked up an allergy a while back, so if I get pricked by a quill, that spot on my body starts to swell...so no more down for me. (Which sucks because I loved my duck down pillows. Didn't love my face swelling, though! So I just have synthetic "down" pillows now...and it's not the same.)
I teach the Scouts if their fleece gets soaked, wring it out, then spin it around about 10 times to get rid of most of the remaining water. The remaining water won't overpower the wicking property of fleece.
Good point but the wool only retains about 30-40% of it's insulation value when soaked. Still, that could be the difference between life and death. I have Woolrich and Filson coats that are fine in light rain and snow but anything heavier I cover with a shell.@@stevepauley2437
True, but fleece is hydrophobic so it doesn't absorb water which is why its easy to wring out and spin dry. The water slides off easily and you are quickly back to relatively dry fleece. There's pros and cons to all the materials and knowing their traits helps you decide how to balance your system to your needs at the time. @@Eunegin23
And wow is that qiviut expensive... like outrageous...expensive isnt close to the correct word! Lol! If you have some, id love to try it! Haha! $2500 for a cardigan sweater!
@BackpackingWithaHammock I'm definitely willing to wrestle one for it thand to pay $2500 US dollars for a sweater vest without sleeves! Lol! Thanks for the info, and I definitely would appreciate your up north hook up! I'm from upstate NY, but apparently that's not "up north" far enough!
Wool socks, for sure. But for jackets I went from wool to down and then to fleece. I found that it doesn't really matter if you have a windproof outer shell over your wool or fleece. I used to have a wool inner and then a down outer. Finally I settled on a cotton inner (for comfort, cos wool was too scratchy), then a fleece mid-jacket, and then an outer nylon windbreaker. The deal-breaker, which you didn't mention, is the wind-proof outer. In that respect, the down beats wool and fleece hands-down in windy conditions. More important than wool/down/fleece is the wind-proof outer shell.
And you will freeze after your cotton base layer gets and stays sweaty. There are wool base layers that are not scratchy. I'd go with that or a synthetic base layer, but never cotton.
Now wool is often diluted by other materials. Very hard to find 100% wool. What is the minimum percentage of wool that still retains it’s characteristics? Thank you.
I say if possible. 100%. Which is hard to find. You can find them ( the old stuff. Which is better than what they are producing today ). But if you can find 80% and above. At lest you are getting in the ballpark. Thank you Imgadgetmanjim for watching. I really appreciate it.
Check out Buffalo System Gear from the U.K. The Special 6 shirt is warm without layers. Got it down to zero degrees. The Teclite shirt is good to about 45F without layers. With One layer of wool, the jacket is good to 30F. Worked great for me in Iceland. Great in wet weather too. Thanks for the info. Very helpful. Be well. Wishing you peace and good fortune. Happy Trails!
Well done. Thanks for bringing together little bits of information I've been hearing...and giving the thought behind each one. Each one has it's place.
Glad that you did not dis any of these options. They all have their place. And I liked the thrift store reminders. I walk my dog about 1,100 miles year in Iowa. We are on the road year round. We've seen -15 with 25 mph wind but were warm. He's a big fuzz ball that loves the cold. Me, I have to dress for it. But in the summer I have to pour water into his fur to cool him sometimes. Fleece, wool, down, polypropylene, polypropylene fleece, leather, nylon, polyester, even neoprene foam sometimes. And in layers. It does depend on thing like temperature, humidity, moisture and wind. Snow melting on overhead trees is not a day for down. -35 wind chill requires layers on your ears.
When hiking with my dog ( a Lab ) for the three seasons. I always will hike by water for him to cool off. Thank you Phild for watching. I really appreciate it.
@@AdventureswiththeMarine As an old man I carry his water, my water, snacks for us both, my ankle and knee wraps, spare socks, and this list adds up to 27 pounds when it is summer and we go through a lot of water. It is a great excuse for an old man to get out of the house. I enjoy your stuff.
I learned to hate wool when I was in the Corps because the wool socks and the Woolly Pully were so damn itchy I never wore them. Even with a skivvy shirt it was unbearable for me. Now days, it's all I seem to wear in the back country after discovering Moreno and Qiviut wool. Great video Brother. Semper Fi
I was hiking on a creek once in NW Ontario at -20F with a wind. I went through up to my waist. But everything, and I mean everything, I was wearing was wool. I hauled myself out, rolled in the snow, and my partner started a fire. I stripped, wrung everything out as best I could, put the clothes back on and headed back to the truck, a half hour away. I thought I would freeze solid before I got there, but only had a layer of frost on my heavy mackinaw pants. Nothing was frozen or stiff and I was warm. So, we drove up the road a bit and went snowshoeing for another two hours with no ill effects. As my dad used to say about wool, no matter how wet and cold you are, you’re always warm and dry.
It is the Lester River 100% Wool Boreal Shirt. It is a very warm piece of gear that will last from generation to generation. My grandkids will be wear that when I am gone. It is worth the cost. Thank you 88divinegrace for watching. I really appreciate it.
My whole life I've always favored "natural wool" : ) Historically since man's beginnings , he has always used "animal fibers" to keep him warm during adverse conditions. Modern man needs to get more in touch with his past (skills), & Mother Nature, to survive "what is coming". 🙏🇺🇲🌎🌍🌏
Adam first used fig leaves for clothing. ( that would not go well here in the winter ) But clothed him with animal skins! Thank you WildernessgalM for watching. I really appreciate it.
A little past my mid 50’s, I still ride a single speed mountain bike and wear wool. I reside in the coastal mountains of Oregon and love making fire! Wool prevails!
Early mountaineers wore woollen tweed jackets and trousers then modern synthetic materials were adopted to save on weight. A fairly recent experiment was conducted comparing the two sets of clothing and it turned out that the wool actually outperformed the synthetic materials when it came to warmth and windproofing. So some form of breathable waterproof outer layer and two or three layers of wool will allow survival in even the harshest conditions.
I suggest nylon. Goretex AKA teflon is too bad for the environment. Not very breathable either. It There's a vid about this gimmick. People should spare their teflon footprint for shoes
Since I have a pretty rough time having to fight my own tendency to perspire heavily even under little load. The issue I have with wool is that though I Know it will probably wick well, that pretty much applies to 100% wool items which are getting Painfully hard to find. I have taken to wearing cotton under my wools and Always under a shell. If you have any thoughts for folks like myself who sweat mucho.... it would be much appreciated. 😊
no problem. I learned to use a thin pure polyester skin layer in the military. The second layer had 50% of cotton or it could be 100% cotton T-shirt. As long as it's touching some cotton it will wick and keep you dry and warm because it insulates you from the soaked cotton.@@BruceWSims
Hate to tell you this but the down "puffy" jackets are not a fad. They were just as popular ten years ago as they are today. So it does not qualify as a fad. It's just a "fact" that most people (with money) don't want a heavy jacket; they don't mind spending $$$ on a lightweight jacket that works really well. As a result, they will always be popular and the price will never go "down".
Wool: Baselayer, get something with a bit of synthetic for longevity. Fleece: active mid or top layer, good in humidity Down: camp, very delicate in humidity Synthetic puff: active in cold, tough
I never use down. 22 years in the military and it just isn't worth it. High cost + being fragile + horrible in rain = no go from me. And, tbh I hate that puffy look. I'm not getting paid to do Michelin tire commercials. I've used an M65 for decades (still do for most things) and never had an issue. I can throw a base layer, some "fleece" and the M65 and get 90% of what I need. If it is raining, I can swap the M65 for a Level6 ECWC top or a Gortex. All about layering and using what works for you. My core is always warm, but my hands and feet are what get me every time.
The first hammock shown was the Superior hammock. And the second one was the Starlite. Both from Superior Gear. Thank you Peterransel for watching. I really appreciate it.
Great info! Like your sense of humor! First time viewing one of your videos. Wool actually heats up as it dries! And still retains up to 30% of its insulating capability when wet. I like a mix of synthetic base layer, light to medium thickness Merino wool mid layer with Down or synthetic insulation as major warmth layer with good wind/rain protection on the outer layer.
Sounds like you are and always will be toasty warm. Please share you experience with others. You are very wise. thank you Kivinlytle for sharing that. Good stuff!
I took a wool hat on a himalyan hike recently. It was constantly raining. The days were 22+ km walking on moraines and glaciers at 14,500 ft. It was constantly raining. My poncho and rucksack back cover leaked making me wet. But the wool hat kept the water out of my heat
I easily get cold when damp and especially in combination of wind, even in tropical heat. So when living in a tropical country I always slept in a 200 merino t-shirt, especially if we had a fan or AC. Worked like charm, kept me dry andeven teperature, even though many thought it weird 😂
I bought a Eddie Bauer goose down sleeping bag in the late 60’s or early 70’s . I remember right I paid 135.00 it was rated at -20 at the time that was a lot of money but I was so glad. I was also doing a lot of winter time camping tent or homemade in woods, also hunting and when it came night in a permit deer camp miles back in wilderness I was so very glad it was a great investment but when it was late summer spring or early fall was way to hot. So I purchased a down very light bag liner so it made my bad even nicer in the very cold but also had a light cooler bag. I was a logger and found wool was the best but when it got damp the sawdust would stick to it so it was dirty in that aspect. I like long underware with cotton and wool and in these later years when it comes to logging they have polyester insulated pants much like snowmobile suit but made for logging with inside pockets to hold Kevlar protection. One piece of advice is don’t be cheap when it comes to your clothing and foot ware you will be glad you were not.
Love it, ive been going in to the hills for years , im 67 and have allways gone for wool, no fleece, marino base, wool shirt , and when wet its still warm, i live in new zealand and home to plenty of sheep.
And also one of the best place on earth ( New Zealand ) to fly fish! Some day I will be visiting your beautiful country with a flyrod in hand. Thank you Graveebailey for watching. I really do appreciate it.
If you are in an area that it always wet. It would be unwise to use down. And I would never hike with down. With perspiration and plus, the the brush would tear holes in the nylon shell. And not to mention around the fire. But there are other good situations were down excels. Thank you Kenknerram for watching. I really appreciate it.
I love wall. This year I have been stocking up on all different types of 100% wool sweaters and socks. I’ve had really wonderful luck finding great prices at Sierra trading Post. They are connected to TJ Maxx and Marshalls. I mean I got 100% mohair skirt for 2999. Come on now that’s amazing.
My friend Runner. Gets all of his clothing for the Great Outdoors from Sierra Trading Post. The deals that he gets are amazing. Quality clothing. Now I am hooked! Thank you chefevilee for watching. Much appreciated.
Would you say that Down performs better than polypropylene? Thank you for the vid and information especially as MN moves into the colder months, take care!
Great timing. A week from Tuesday. I will be uploading an episode called: "Down vs Synthetic". I would like to know what you think after it comes out. Thank you Cipher2 for watching. I really appreciate it.
This is a great topic. Thanks! I personally love merino wool. I've never heard of the one from the yak I think it was. I would like to try that out! Thanks for the information!
Florida is a good place to find wool and down in second hand stores. People move down here and don't think they'll ever use. It. I found a full older but in great shape Eddie Bauer goose down pants and jacket set for $10 a couple of years ago.
It's hard to find 100% wool,I can get 80% and it's still good 😊..Somebody gave me wool sweater and it's super warm and it isn't prickly. I love ❤️ wool and nice soft sheep 🐑 skin clothes...
I guess it is cheaper to mix other materials to bring down the cost. All of the clothing for winter in my Grandparent's generation was wool. You had the choice of cotton or wool. Both were inexpensive. I don't know why wool is so high. Thank you Ilijabosnjak for watching. I really appreciate it.
Cashmere jumpers from the charity shops are wonderful! Just ignore those horrific golfer patterns ;-) 35 years on my down winter sleeping bag is still good for 3.5 seasons! Modern super-light weights maybe last not as long. I'd argue that a cashmere jumper is faster than down at warming up, but that's for the direct to skin warmth (usually in a tent). The down bags/jackets have a 'cold' nylon layer. You'd be right for outside, where the wind proof nature and thickness of the down jacket applies!
I would not mind the horrific golf patterns if I got them at a great price. I would be one warm want-be golfer. Thank you Philipoakley for sharing that. Good info.
I have a shirt jack of various wool blend, bought in 1969 in Gainesville Florida at now defunct big box store J.M. Fields in brown patchwork color when I began deer and hog hunting as a university student. I still have it, and it looks as good as new as it did day one. Even has a J.M. Fields label not some x branded "made in xyz." It took some hard lessons to learn over the hunting years to avoid anything cotton. Breathable wicking undergarments are a must, same for sock liners even if you're wearing wool socks. Getting perspiration away from the skin, and wicked away is the secret. Layering is also important. The right outerwear won't serve you as intended if underneath you aren't properly "configured." Working up a sweat humping to your stand in cold or freezing weather, arriving at your stand, and about 20 minutes after settling in on your stand makes for a miserable experience when your outerwear traps moisture and dampness next to your body and you begin to shiver.