Also as long as iv worked this trade every man and his dog seems to have his own way of doing things some guys use hammer drills others argue over which bits to use to clear joints others demand that it should only ever be done with hand tools each to their own i prefer to look at the work as its completed and see the finished product and see what i can take from those tradesmen that do a good job.
What an incredible presentation and demonstration! You guys just answered so many questions I had regarding this process; thank you! I live in the States, and purchased a circa one hundred year old home this past fall. The foundation is made of extremely large stones, and most of the joints are totally eroded. While in the process of educating myself on repairing such things, I quickly came to realize that there was something unusual about the mortar between them. The area I live in, originally a Welsh settlement in the Appalachian mountains, is comprised of many buildings with foundations such as these; Knowing about the history of the county I live in and it’s people, I decided to look into Welsh architecture. That is where I started finding answers as to what I was dealing with. Observing the buildings where I live, I noticed that many were repaired over the years with different methods - and none of those methods seemed effective. Some even did significant damage to the buildings. I now believe that happened is due to the repairs being made with cement based mortars, not lime. In short, I discovered that the mortar in my house was made of lime, not cement, and then was left in the dark on what to do to fix such things. In pop you guys, and now I’m ready to get started after watching your videos. If for any reason you guys ever find yourselves in the States, you should stop by Cambria County Pennsylvania. I think there is a lot of overlap - and then divergence from - our architectural histories. All worthy though of appreciation, and all totally fascinating. Anyway, thank you so much!
Thanks for the video, I have an old garden wall (1890's) to repoint/repair at some point in the next year and this video gave me the info I need to now do it with more confidence.
Excellent! Thankyou, clear visual demonstration and no waffle, I liked the explanation for why and how the mortar works so I can point with confidence understanding why I’m doing it this ways.
Brill! Thanks for this. I've an ancient hogast (stone sheep hut) on my land, which desperately needs work. I can't justify getting it professionally repointed, so your vids are really helping.
Thanks for sharing your skills, techniques and experience. It is always greatly appreciated when an expert shares knowledge instead of protecting it as a black art. I'm sure you will always do a better job of it than an amateur but its given me the confidence to add lime pointing the front elevation of my old french farmhouse to the project list for next year. It is identical to the construction in this video but has no pointing at all... it looks like a dry stone wall close up and while it's solid enough it has proven to be a great nesting site for wasps, bees and hornets !! I especially appreciated the tip about dusting and brushing at the end. Thanks again guys
TheComputec: You will have no trouble pointing your French farmhouse as it has not been "got at" by builders that think they are professionals, by far the worst part of this job is the hacking out of endless types of mortar that have been applied over the ages, to find a house that has not been "refreshed" in this way is, well, refreshing, I mix up sample lots of mortar before I start, just to get the colour right, by using Renocal, yellow sand,brown sand, until I get a mix that looks right, the secret is leaving the mortar until crumbly, then brushing with a course brush, I use an old broom head, but do not brush it too soon, or it will look awful. Good Luck on your project. Chris B.
@@Nooneofc0nsequence he says in the video it's to shed water off the wall and prevent frost/freeze and thaw damage in winter etc. Note they said to angle the repointing so the water does not pool on the surface
Great easy to understand video..I'm site managing a job that has loads of brick building n pointing so now my knowledge has been increased I feel more confident in my job 🙂
Great video very easy to learn from. Could you please give me some advice on the type of lime mortar I should use for pointing old stone walled living room in the south of Ireland.
it's really needed in britain not only for the weather but also for the integrity of what was there before. they're using 3:1 for the pointing but traditionally the ratio would be lower for building. even for gallating on a wall like that 3:1 is fine. basically it's a safer, better, more professional using lime not just cement
Thank you for this excellently informative video. It's really helped me get to grips with a job at the back of my c.1900 house. The wall is of typical Cornish 'slate' stone and quite soft brick around the windows. The problem I have is a few decades of sharp sand cement 'repairs' to the old lime pointing, and several coatings of cement slurry and sandtex-type paints. In a few minutes, I've managed to get back to the original lime pointing, so with the tips from your video and some NHL 3.5, I should be good to go. My only question is how to remove cement slurry that's bonded onto the bricks. Chipping at it just seems to fracture them. Again, thanks so much for the help (this isn't the first of your videos that has helped me do things properly!)
Hi James. Thanks for your kind comment and we're glad our video has been helpful in making good the mistakes to your property. The matter of removing a strongly bonded cement mix from masonry is not always straight forward but a better solution than damaging the brick is to carefully use a strong acid solution (such as brick acid). Slightly weaker acids that can be used on lime stains etc. (such as citric acid) will probably not cut it but needless to say the use of strong acids should be carried out with the appropriate level of care and safety. Good luck with your project!
Nice video! Here in the USA we have limited access to decent lime. We generally have to use type S hydrated lime. Do you know if when using this type of lime if a pozzolan needs to be added to it for it to cure properly? I was going to make a lime putty with the type S lime and let it sit for a month or so, then use it with a 1 part lime, 3 part sand mix. Would that cure on its own? I would be using it on a fieldstone foundation to repoint the interior walls.
Great video Mike. I have a Georgian house to repoint and understood everything here. My only question was during brushing off, what 'dust' did you use? Is it a product or just brick dust off the floor? I don't have any to speak of just lying at the bottom of the wall.
Great to see it done properly. i have zero dexterity and throw my mortar at the gaps and then use a brush to push it into the recesses. It works ok ( for me ) and because I own the outhouses I can do what I want. The only tools I use are a bucket for the mortar, rubber gloves to protect my hands and a brush. Great video though and really instructive and informative,
Thanks for taking the time to leave positive feedback. We're pleased you found the video helpful and informative. All the best with your own project (assuming it's still ongoing). Ryan @ Mike Wye
excellent informative video , thankyou. it's refreshing not to be assaulted with unecessary music & shouty americans. only problem is i'm too relaxed to go and do any pointing now!
'shouty americans'.. Bloody foreigners, eh? I can't say I've ever encountered a 'shouty' American in all my 61 years, and I've been around Americans from privileged and not so privileged backgrounds ever since I've been fortunate enough to visit their country. However, you do find rude and ill-informed folk in many countries.. You sound like you voted 'leave the EU' and you sound like you read the Daily Express. You don't sound the type of person to read the Daily Mail (equally racist, right-wing, hate-filled publication) 'cause your deplorable grammar and punctuation are not typical of Daily Mail readers.
Hi Guy's firstly may I thank you for uploading these videos as they are great help to anyone who is doing this for the first time. I have to say that I felt that this was slightly misleading though. A stonemason friend of mine who advised me on my own repointing project that the joint should be raked out to twice as deep as the joint is wide ? Also this wall has obviously been pointed up relatively recently and so the lime is fairly sound , many old walls will have lots of loose material and so should be raked out to a greater depth than 20mm . Also when doing a large wall raked out in places at a deeper level you would not be looking for a flush finish initially as as rightly state you would build up in 20-25mm increments whilst ensuring that the whole wall is not drying out . There is no mention of the knuckle test or finger nail check to test for when next load is applied or is ready for beating back , followed by brushing off. I feel that usually you give those little details that are important but have missed it on this video.
+Darren Selby Hi Darren. Thank you for taking the time to comment on our video. We're a little disappointed that you feel the content is misleading but hopefully my response will help to alter your view.....if only a little! For many pointing applications it is reasonable advice to suggest that the joint should be' raked out to twice as deep as the joint is wide'. However, our advice is that this should not be taken as a general rule of thumb or followed religiously without using a little common sense. Traditional stone walls/random rubble walls often have large mortar joints which may not have been there when the wall was built. This could be due to stones eroding or 'pinning stones' falling away over the years. Even if the joints were part of the original wall and are 25 mm - 30 mm wide, raking out to depths of 50 mm, 60 mm or beyond could potentially disrupt or dislodge stones, or even weaken the wall - which could have disastrous consequences! We do discuss raking our to depths beyond 20 mm very early on in this video and also show a small stone being bedded into larger gaps. You're right with your observations about the wall being recently pointed, and this does not give a completely accurate representation of every wall you will ever come across. The video was filmed from our training wall at our base in Devon which has seen the mortar raked out and re-pointed over and over for the best part of 20 years! The training days throw up all sorts of questions, comments and issues. We feel it is almost impossible to cover every eventuality in a relatively short video clip so accept that some things will be missed. However, if you would like to benefit from one of our training days to discuss these points further then I'd be happy to offer you a 10% discount. The knuckle test or finger nail check is not something we would usually associate with lime pointing. We rely on the mortar being sufficiently dry or green hard before brushing back which is mentioned about half way into the video. We use the finger nail check as a helpful indication for checking that render or plaster coats are sufficiently cured before applying subsequent coats, but accept that other trades people will use techniques in different ways. I hope this helps. Kind regards, Ryan.
Hey!super video,so inspiring that I picked up the sds drill and cleared all the cement render/pointing off my garden wall today and will repoint with lime as it has no weight on it just divides the street from the yard. My question is how did you mix it (manual or machine)?how long does the mix keep fresh? And how much would you need for approx 20 square metres? Thanks again for this great tutorial! Joci
Hi, thank you for your comment. We mix with machine, 3 parts sand to 1 part lime putty and some pozzolan, this is air drying (without the pozzolan)so you can keep it in a tub with the lid on to preserve it. Depending on the depth of pointing you would need around 250kg.
Thanks, just what I was looking for- needing to do this on my 'new' very old building in Portugal. My question is regarding if I want to then render over the stone, is the process the same? I'm guessing I'd need to try to ensure the pointing bridges the gaps between stones as smoothly as possible for the next layer? Then, is the mix the same for the render? So much to learn!
Thanks for the video. I have a stone home that does not have like mortar. I am weighing repointing with lime mortar. Is there any bonding agent that needs to be added? DW
I’ve got a stone gable wall to repoint and this video has answered a lot of questions for me, very clear. One question I have is whether Bristol Channel Holm sand can be used to mix with hydraulic lime?
Nice video, thank you. I'm a novice DIYer looking to repoint a stone retaining wall with my house quite close to the top. I'm thinking NHL 5 would be appropriate? I live in the Bristol area and the stone seems to be fairly hard.
To get a neater, grittier finish with more aggregate showing, once it's set a bit, use your finger and rub the joints, then brush off with a soft brush. Brings the aggregate of the coarse sand out nicely.
Thanks for the video Mike, I have a sandstone outbuilding to re-point & this has really helped me see the technique. How long did you leave the pointing before going back with the churn brush & is that a brick dust you are throwing on top of the lime before brushing? I plan to book on one of your courses once they are back up & running after Covid.
Hi David, the brick dust is not an essential part, normally you can brush the joints the next morning. Look forward to seeing you on a course in the future.
Thank you. Do you have any advice when a stone is laid directly on another stone - with no space between? I have this in a few areas of the wall I’m hoping to repoint.
We'd recommend using a stronger form of lime that the ones shown in this video. NHL5 (as per the link to follow), mixed with sharp sand at a 1:2 ratio by volume www.mikewye.co.uk/product/natural-hydraulic-lime-secil/ I hope this helps.
Hi Mike, firstly thank you for these very on point, technically well informed videos that really bring out the technique and skills. Watching this, I notice the colour of your mortar is white/grey. I'm using a yellow sand as default and getting a yellow doughy paste with a light yellow mortar with a 1:3 mix. Should I be using a white sand, is that what you did?
Thanks for your kind words - we are very pleased you have found the video useful. The mortar in use in the video is our "standard mix" which is indeed a whitish grey. We also produce special mixes which are yellower or pinker in colour, and the colour is dictated by the type of sand used. The requirement with sand for lime putty mortar is that is it sharp, and well-graded with fine through to much coarser grains. The colour of sand, and therefore mortar, is purely an aesthetic consideration. The 1:3 mix is what we generally use with putty mortars, and is the same through our colour range.
Hi, very informative for me who has to do a bit of lime pointing in the Charente. You mention a mix of 3.5-1 plus something else I couldn't quite decipher, can you oblige? Thanks
Hi, I'm going to be working on an interior stone wall. What type of lime mortar would you recommend, the hydraulic or non hydraulic lime any other advice would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I only use a pointing gun for pointing stone or brickwork. with a little practice you cab leave the joint full or recessed without smudging the stone/brick and it's many times quicker. plus. always wet the joint before repointing. top barnet mate :)
Thanks for your positive review! The lime putty mortar shown in this video will dry over a period of days. It's not an exact science because it depends on conditions at the site, weather etc. It's wise to protect the mortar after the work is finished, partly from rain, but also to prevent drying from taking place too rapidly which can cause cracking. This type of lime then cures (carbonates) quite slowly, as carbon dioxide from the atmosphere is absorbed, and gains full strength over many months.
Great vid. Thanks for sharing. Do you know if it is wise to expose a stone wall in a farmhouse, where the other side of the wall is to the outside? I've only seen exposed stone walls where the other side of that wall is in another interior room. I wish we had very old homes in US. You have a lot more history in UK. My farmhouse is from 1730s.
@@2Ryled It's not a simple question to answer and does depend on factors such as the rainfall in your region and the exposure of the property. For example, we are based in a part of the UK which has high levels of rainfall (higher than the majority of the UK!), with moorlands to the north and south and coast only short distances to the east and west. So you can imagine a property which is exposed on higher ground or on the coast in an area of high rainfall will be at risk of water ingress when the outside has no protective coating (either by way of a render and paint, cladding or a water repellent treatment). An internal lime plaster can help to manage low levels of moisture and regulate this but should not be expected to deal with physical water from ingress from the outside. If you are confident that the walls are dry and would not be impacted by removing a degree of moisture management from the internal plaster (i.e. reducing the risk of condensation in humid areas such as bathrooms and kitchens) then there should be little problem in removing the plaster. I hope this helps.
Hi John. What are you building in? Be sure in your own mind that the use of cement isn't going to create a problem further down the line (ie trap moisture or cause damage to the softer stone/brick over time), we can offer some more detailed guidance on this. If it's purely for aesthetics then yes, you could build in cement and point in lime.
hi mike thanks for your reply its a wall round a farm house I'm a dry stone waller. not my usual kind of job. I asked a builder friend. he said to build it with 6 sand to one cement. then point it with 6 sand one cement one lime. you can see the wall I'm working on on my chanell nd my other work
+john rae Cement mixes have the potential to cause damage due to them not being very permeable and driving moisture and impurities through the weaker, softer stone. A 6:1:1 mix for the pointing is a cement mix, not a lime mix. In my opinion, as well as the potential to damage, cement pointing looks ugly and out of place on a stone wall. As a alternative to your suggested mixes, consider using a natural hydraulic lime for the building (for strength), and a traditional lime putty mortar (as seen in this video) for a softer pointing mix. Hope this helps.
In this vide you mentioned your lime to aggregate ratio, but not the aggregate size. What did you use? It looks finer than what we’d use, but it looks great.
Hi, great video. I'm planning on repointing my whole brick house, built in 1936 with standard cement. Some of the cement is eroding between the brick. Can you recommend a lime mortar? What mix ratio do you refer to in your video3:1..is that 3 lime 1 water? Or 3 cement 1 lime? Thank you
Hi and thanks for the feedback. The mix we use in the video is 3 parts well graded, sharp sand to 1 part lime putty by volume. We don't add cement to our mixes. If you are keen to replace the original concrete mortar/pointing with something a little more sympathetic then you may want to consider using a natural hydraulic lime (NHL) 3.5 grade www.mikewye.co.uk/product/natural-hydraulic-lime-secil/ This can be mixed at a similar ration with sand as per the video.
@@MikeWyeLtd thank you. That's big help. Just ordered my scaffold tower. Plan to start in week or 2. I'll keep coming back to your vid to refresh my memory. All best
I cannot understand if you used lime putty/sand mix or if this is a hot lime/sand mix. You say the proportions are 3:1 but not the ingredients..or at least I cannot find them. Could you share this detail? I have a similar job to do and cannot decide if I should do a hot lime mix or a lime putty mix. Thank you for your time and work. Appreciate you videos!
Hello, Thank you for your kind comments. We don't deal with hot lime mixes. Our mixes are three parts sand to one part lime putty by volume. The sand is a washed pit sand (4 mm - 0mm)
Hi Mike I'm removing the plaster to expose the brick wall inside my living room and the mortar( lime mortar I believe, old victorian property )between the bricks is falling apart, should I use lime mortar or the standard mortar to repoint? Any advice would be brilliant. Thanks
I really wish I had seen this and stuck to be guns on the repointing of my place. I wanted lime but it seemed to go against all other advice and I didn’t feel confident enough to insist. Oh well I am about to do the wall inside and will do it with lime. It’s a limestone wall, in terms of colour, Is it possible to add pigment?
Hi Kerry. We don't tend to add pigments to lime mortars but instead influence colour by the selection of sands/aggregates. Here's a link to our website where you can see the range of colours we're able to offer www.mikewye.co.uk/product/lime-mortar/ Kind regards, Ryan @ Mike Wye
Hi, with regards to the above project, are you able to advise what types of sand you used, e.g. 2 x sharp and 1 x soft (well washes)? Thank you in advance.
Hi Tom. The aggregate selection should be based on the joint size. For an average 10 mm wide joint on brickwork or stone, we would use a well-graded (blend of coarse and fines), sharp washed sand. Many builders merchants supply a sharp 50/50 mix which is generally suitable.
Hi Tom. We would always advise the use of a sharp sand when mixing with a lime binder. The improved surface area and shape of sharp sand offers an improved bond compared to rounded sands and therefore superior mix consistency.
Hi, I'm about to start repointing my house and was hoping you could answer a few questions i have? Firstly, the house has a lot of damp issues and i'm hoping they'll be resolved by fixing the pointing but some of the stones on the inside wall have just disappeared, will it be detrimental to the stones around them if i fill the gaps in the wall with brick and normal cement? (These walls will be plastered, so the bricks won't be seen). Secondly, again on the inside, i've been told to use a membrane, in addition to a chemical damp proof course, to prevent the rising damp from coming through the plaster but given just how wet some of the stones are, i'm concerned that all i'll be doing there is keeping the moisture in the stone. Should i be dealing with the dap a different way because it's a stone house?
it needs to breathe. dont attempt to put any cement in the building at all. use nhl 3.5 to 2.5 of a similar sand that's been used historically. I personally wouldn't add any membrane as these houses need to breathe to let moisture out. that's what the lime pointing will allow. hope this helps.
Hello, replace the stones with lime, like for like. Cement is too hard and not very breathable, this could cause cracking and more water retention. Lime will allow water vapour to disperse. Are your ground levels higher outside? There is an argument to say that damp proof injection may work in a brick wall, where each course is on a level but it will have no effect in a stone wall where levels are random. Tanking is a last resort, please give us a call on 01409 281644. We are always here for free advice!
Pozzolan. This is a generic term for a product which brings about a hydraulic set in traditional, air drying limes (such as lime putty). The pozzolan we use today is an industrial produced metakaolin, however materials such as brick dust, fly ash and granulated blast furnace slag can also be used.
+Kevin Amatt We do indeed recommend dampening down the joints for most re-pointing applications. This would then be allowed to draw in for a short period before pointing the wall. We show dampening down in sections throughout our DVD which was broken down for the benefit of RU-vid.
We advise using a 'well-graded' (blend of fines and grit) sharp, washed sand - typically in the region of 0-5 mm which is around half the average width of typical mortar joints in the UK. Sharp aggregates offer a better bond than rounded aggregates and therefore a better mix consistency. Many 50/50 blends available in the UK are a reasonably good match for lime mortar mixes.
I’ve got my gable end to do. It’s eroded quite badly about 4 foot from bottom up (NE England) I’m guessing because of soft sandstone and cement. Is it true cement should never of been used on this wall because I’m getting different answers from local builders? Or is it just a case of they are builders and not stonemasons? Please help mike brilliant video I’m going to tackle it myself slowly 🤔👍
Hi Chris. We're not "anti-cement" but would never recommended it be used in mixes for the pointing, rendering or repair on a traditional sandstone property. Typically, the reason for the spalling (erosion) to the masonry you are experiencing is due to the mortar being stronger and more resistant than the sandstone. The mortar joint should be the sacrificial element and provide the path of least resistance for moisture and associated minerals to pass through. This way, the pointing wears away over a period of decades and is easily replaced by the next owner/carer of the property. I'm sure the advice you have been given from the local builders is with the best intention and in line with modern taught building practices but it is not good advice and should be ignored for the good of your property and your pocket! If you have a good relationship with a local builder and they are prepared to use the correct materials (i.e. lime mortar) then we are happy to guide them through the process - there's nothing to be fearful of! Regards, Ryan @ Mike Wye
A company called Yorkshire Lime and Clay do that kind of work. They have a website with contact details on it. You can specify that you want the materials from Mike Wye.
SDS everytime and a pointing gun (like the large 'cox' one)...people slate the pointing gun but its a fantastic tool, it gets the mortar right in there, in all the crevices and fills up the whole voids, much better than you can doing it this way (not that this is a bad way) and it is far far far quicker, only problem is it is probably a bit more wasteful...after the pointing has gone off a bit the mortar is then pushed in to really compress it using a plasterers trowell or similar and then after that a churn brush is used.....no right or wrong way you just find a good method that works for you!
hi thank you for showing your work. Re the lime mortar mix ratio, you mention 3:1 (sand:lime?) and for external application to add 'potselan' or something? Can you please clarify what this is and what ratio to add? I'm redoing my fireplace hearth right now, but will also be repointing the handmade clay bricks outside, in my 1927 house. Also can you please comment on doing this in winter? It's on average around 8 degrees celsius here in Goulburn Australia during the day in winter. Will this effect the time taken to work on it? Thanks for sharing your knowledge. The video is good to watch because it's long enough to enable us to get into the groove of what you're doing and the working rhythm and pace required.
Hi Sue, yes this is a lime putty mortar that has three parts sand to one part lime by volume. In the UK we add the pozzolan which is a burned clay powder, the brand we use is Argical M1000. Most building materials have a temperature guideline of five degrees and rising so you should be ok but it may be an idea to protect the area with a hessian sheet in case there is a sudden cold snap. Thank you for the kind comments.
@@MikeWyeLtd Hi Mike, thank you. I am chuffed by your quick reply from the UK! Good advice on the hessian sheet. That's interesting that the pozzolan is burnt clay. For rendering my fireplace walls, I was advised to add fireclay to the render mix, as a refractory cement. I will have to seek out 'burned clay powder' but would you mind sharing the ratio of how much I should add to the 3:1 mix? For the refractory render with the fireclay it was 1:1:1:3 (fireclay, lime, portland cement, sand)
@@MikeWyeLtd thank you! No I will certainly leave out any cement for the remaining render and add 1:8 pozzolan. This will be my first attempt at actual Lime mortar. Thanks again and wishing you a good day
@@sianthomas8426 The mix suggested would be considered a concrete mix rather than a lime mix and not something we would advocate be used. The theory is to use a mortar which is weaker than the masonry as a sacrificial element which could easily be replaced in the (distant) future. Moisture and minerals will follow the path of least resistance. If this is the mortar joint then it will gradually erode over time. If the path of least resistance is the masonry then you could find damage occurs such as the defacing of the stone (spalling) which is much more difficult to repair or replace later on.
Tools I had to look up : SDS hammer drill Plasterer small tool. Steps Prepare the lime mortar the day before using it to allow it to elasticize. Makes it easier to work with. 1) Start from top to bottom of the wall, right handed start from right to left; left handed start from left to right. 2) Use a dust mask (lime = dangerous for the lungs) 3) remove old joint to 20 mm in with SDS + drill with rotary stop. 4) brush to remove dust at the end of the old joint 5) 30 min to an hour before pointing spritz water in the joints (back of the joint still needs to be wet, but face of the bricks have to be dry) 6) mixture sand to lime - 3 parts sand to 1 part lime = internal use, for external use add Pozzolan to mate the mortar more frost resistant ? How much ? I don't know :-) .... 7) Push the lime mortar the whole way back into the joint. 8) Outside walls, make sure that there is no recess between the joint and the brick underneath it, to allow rainwater to go down from the wall and not puddle. 9)
Pozzolan. A material that reacts with traditional limes to bring about a hydraulic set. We use a metakaolin but historically other materials such as brick dust and ash have also been used. www.mikewye.co.uk/product/argical-pozzolan/
@@MikeWyeLtd I cannot find NHL in the US. Can I use hydrated lime instead? It is for sealing the basement stone foundation where there is moisture in the summer in the New England location where there is freeze and thaw.
@@platinumgold8209 hydrated lime is a dried version of lime putty (which would be a better option if you can get it) this can be soaked and made into a mortar. You can add a pozzolan or metakaolin to this mortar to give it a hydraulic set
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm sure this is not beyond me. Not only do I need to do some re-pointing but an old man nearby keeps asking me if I know someone who can do some for him. No-one can get a workman! Where did they all go?
Hi and thanks for the comment. I'm certain this is not beyond you either with a little patience and understanding (which hopefully we've helped with!). Tradespeople who have an understanding of traditional, sympathetic approaches do still exist but not always easy to come by as you state. We do have a number of contacts in most areas of the country we can give out who might be able to help - if you drop us an email with your postcode I'll see if we can help sales@mikewye.co.uk. Alternatively, you could work out an hourly rate for your neighbour and take some pride in restoring a local property correctly for the next several decades! Regards, Ryan @ Mike Wye
Looks nice but working @ that speed & those tools my stone house i have just repointed in lime would of taken me 10 yrs . But at least you are using lime .
Hi Luke. The sand in this instance is a well graded (range of fines through to coarse), sharp washed sand. For most standard brickwork and stone pointing we use a sand which has a range of approximately 0mm-4mm. However, the sand should always be appropriate for the application. For example, tight mortar joints in decorative brickwork would require a finer sand (tuck pointing is one example of this). Many historic mixes will contain sands which are sourced locally, and therefore vary in colour. We use various blends of coloured sand to try and recreate these mixes and match mortars typical of the geographical area. I hope this helps.
Hi Mike,, I have a question I'm hoping you will answer, I have stone walls on old house I have hacked all the old lime render off the internal walls as the lime render has blown and been plastered over with gypsm plaster over the years had bad damp since hacking back the to stone all damp has gone:) ill be re-rendering in lime I already got all the stuff from your company ready to go, but I was thinking of not rendering some wall to show off the stone and just repoint in lime,, *My question is is their much benefit in rendering internal walls they are the outer walls but inside , does the lime render help with keeping the house warm? The walls are about half a metre thick
It's a fair point! The videos on our channel were split down from an old DVD we produced and I believe the dampening process is covered in another section. We always recommend dampening down old mortar joints/masonry before re-pointing so hopefully your comment and our response will now be more visable for others! Kind regards, Ryan @ Mike Wye
You say “a three to three and a half to one mix” and something else added. What are the ingredients you are talking about ? Obviously lime is one ( ha again, what sort of lime hydraulic or whatever the other one is ?) seems like alchemy to me
Thanks for your comment. In this demonstration, lime putty mortar was used. We usually mix this at a ratio to 3:1, which is 3 parts sharp sand to 1 part lime putty, by volume. The additive is a pozzolan, to accelerate the setting process and give the mortar some early strength. The specific product has changed since this video was produced, but is the same form of material - metakaolin. Where a pozzolan is being used we tend to gauge this into the mortar at a ratio between 6:1 and 8:1 by volume (mortar : pozzolan). When NHL is used this also is often at a similar mix ratio, although there can be variations for specific jobs, and we would not usually add pozzolan. If you are looking at a particular job and would like some advice please don't hesitate to get in touch.
Hi Mike, iv been trying to contact your sales last few days for prices on sand and lime, I'm in South Wales.. I have sent a email, any idea when your company is back up and running, Thanks, I did have a what's app number that was good to contact and would be good for sending pictures, but if lost the number off my phone :(
Hi Mike. We've been here throughout lockdown but have only been supplying essential and ongoing projects until this week. We now have a couple of extra staff and are gradually moving back to full operations, although are still closed to the public and not currently accepting incoming calls. I can see what looks like your email from yesterday which has been marked for my colleague Steve who should get back to you later today. Regards, Ryan @ Mike Wye
Hi Mike sorry for all the questions I'm trying to get as much knolage as I can. I have external lime render on my house front, it's very hard stuff, some cracks and 1 bit near the foot path where water gets into the wall has blown slight looks like a crack but when knocked with my hand it's hollow sound,, I removed some in a different are higher up the wall in hope it was really nice face stone it went ,.it's still nice but big gaps between the srones, but still would look great pointed. The bit i removed was stuck on very well i shouldn't of removed it to late no, anyway it was bone dry behind this bit i removed, so I'm not sure what to do, repair the render and all the cracks, or remove it all and re-point the whole wall this will be allot of work but I do like the look of natural stone with the lime looks great. would removing the render make damp worst or better I guess worst, or be the same? If I repair the damage and cracking render and I can't blend the repair in perfect how would I hide this, skim something over the top of the whole house front after repair, or use that SecilTek Reabilita Cal AC you sell and paint the whole front , or skimmed on it might be not read into that properly yet your sales guy mention it to me few days ago. Also I have lime render inside but sadly it's all been cover with modern gypsm plaster and damp is everywhere black and black spots showing up more as we approach summer as if it's trying to get out, I plan on hacking all the inside render off all walls and sloweely bit by bit re-pointed the stoned as would look very nice I think, would lime render inside be better or no different? The mix they used when they built this house is interesting I live I south Wales a lot of coal about looks like they used some sort of coal & maybe coal dust maybe even instead of sand its a very gray morta and bits of coal in it, and odd white bits i think from how they mixed the lime I think. If been watching many videos and reading tonight, looks like my render has a Tyrolean finish, so this might help for blending in or maybe a coat over the whole wall after repair would be a good key ?
@@mikede2331 Are you able to email this to us at sales@mikewye.co.uk? There's a lot to pick through on here and I feel it would better dealt with by email or over the phone (we should be accepting incoming calls again from next week but can always call you).
@@MikeWyeLtd Hi Mike, I'll email , thanks again for the help I really do appreciate it,. I would be in a right mess if wearnt for people like you willing to help
I wouldn't use lime only on that wall, It's load bearing, & it's above ground & exposed to weather. its a little to soft,in my opinion. I would use type N with a bonding agent.
This is a free standing wall which is sheltered on both long sides. Irrespective of this, there is absolutely no good reason to introduce a cement based mortar to simply re-point the wall. Some might argue that a 6:1:1 mix wouldn't be disastrous but it would be brittle, less vapour permeable and would be less sympathetic aesthetically (bloody ugly to look at in other words!). In our opinion, there really is no good argument to use cement for function or appearance over a lime mortar that would have been used on walls like these for hundreds of years. Regards, Ryan @ Mike Wye
+Kevin Amatt Tamping and brushing the mortar joints is common practice and has does not affect the strength of the mortar joint. This process is designed to remove the patina of the lime and reveal the aggregate for aesthetic purposes. 'Scraping' mortar joints would probably compromise strength but I'm not sure where you saw this on the video clip? I hope this helps.
If you reveal the aggregate, the pointing will look older, but it will compromise the strength. Ian Constantinides was the owner of St. Blaise which was the first restoration company in the UK. I worked for them for 8 years. And I've worked on old buildings for 16 years. So I know what I'm talking about.
+Kevin Amatt We're aware of who Ian was, although referring to St. Blaise as 'the first restoration company in the UK' is a little bizarre. Whilst St Blasie were operational they were well known in certain circles, and played a large part of the lime revival. But restoration trades have surely been around since buildings themselves?! However, we're not about to get embroiled in a bitter argument with you regarding your points. You may be interested to know that we've been in this game for over two decades ourselves, as specialist trades, manufacturers and suppliers - so we know what we're talking about. Maybe we should just agree to disagree on this occasion - unless you can give us some evidence of your claims aside from "Ian Constantinides once told me.....". Enjoy your weekend!
