Your so right. DON'T BASH PEOPLE. I love your videos. Keep them coming. I just ordered my line lock. I'm going on the front circuit tho. My rid is a 86 GMC S-15 I put a built 383 stroker 550 HP Tremix TKX 5 speed and stage 3 clutching Quick performance shipped me a Ford 9" with 411 gearing posi. She is amazing.
Loved the little speech at the end see it often myself on fb kids just trying to learn. Technology is always changing and hard to keep up on sometimes. Bashing is never cool and is nice you support and tell guy's to ignore and stick in there.
love the speech snippets at the end. You're right about the bashing of ideas. When i closed my shop I thought I'd lend a hand at the community forums for engine advice and what a shit show that turned out to be. I quit 90% of the forums because of those people that knew way more than me that either rebuilt one engine or had a friend that built one and had way more experience than me in my 35+ years and thousands on rebuilds... I only belong to 2 car forums now just for that reason. So much bad advice out there....
its hard to find good advice out there, everyone says "no the other guy is wrong im right, blah blah blah" i have a sbc s10 and im 17 I don't know everything about these motors yet so it makes it a pain
@@camden2941 We all had to learn from nothing. The pain is the learning process but you learn what not to do a lot. Sucks but thats the school of hard knocks. You'll be fine if you keep after it.
@@camden2941 This guy here gives great advice on Stuff. As an engine guy myself since the 80s I do a lot of the stuff the same way. There are a lot of bad, misleading videos out there but these on this channel I find very good most times. If you have questions, ask away.
TVP, I plan on installing my line lock as a rear brake shut off as well, can you confirm that this Moroso model does function this way. I have been reading that it only works like a check valve and will not hold back pressure from the master cylinder. I do see in your demo that it did work, does it still work this way at the line? I also understand that it only has a 60 second lock time or it will overheat and could be damaged. Thanks ahead of time for your help! Ray's Garage
I like your transitions, are you still using davinci resolve? Is it free? I use filmora and lately my videos feel more like a power point collaboration of clips.
Awesome man! Is it recommended to install the solenoid closest to the master cylinder? Or is it ok to mount near the rear of the vehicle? *for rear wheel pressure blocking*
Those small cheap brake line flare tools work better when you clamp them in a vise or use something to really tighten the wingnuts down. I may have to try rear shut-off linelock on my one of my projects, see if I like it better.
I'm not sure if it was this video or another, but you mentioned mixing your fuel 50/50,110 and 91 pump...is your 110 leaded? I was always told the leaded fuel would mess up my o2 sensor for my wideband...any issues?
i had to use an older flare block to get good double flares the flair nuts work great the flair block sucks ass got one of the amazon ones and the flair block was complete junk but my grandpas 30yo flair block worked great!
Shouldn't you hook it up to the rear brake line backwards, so you are holding pressure away from the rear brakes. So the Front brakes still function as Normal. Your at risk to blow out your mater cylinder in your configuration.
it will work. but I think you will sometimes forget line lock on. at least if you're like me. another switch is my suggestion. one that springs back when you release your finger.
I have a 4 speed Saginaw 373 gears and posi traction I dont think I'd be coordinated enough to do all that so ill just keep letting the clutch fly in first its a grip force clutch with Eloy buttons ratted for 550 hp so no worries it can take it .... for now
So let me get this right. A regular install would be to lock in the pressure into the front brakes.To use this, you would press the brake pedal and then hit the switch locking in the pressure to the front brakes. Then release the brake pedal and do your burn out. Release the switch to move forward.Prolly good for manual trans situations. Reverse install locks out the pressure to the rear brakes but still activates the front breaks depending on how hard the brake pedal is pressed. The break pedal and the gas pedal both are used in this situation. First you would activate the switch, then press the brake pedal then the gas pedal to burn out. Release the brake pedal when you want to move forward. This lends itself more to an automatic trans. I think the switches used in both situations could be momentary or not depending on preference. I don't think I could manage a burn out with a reverse install. Just not that co-ordinated.
At the track this should be completely illegal!! Because I promise you 100% you will at one time or the other forget about deactivating it, and than youll end up without rear brakes at the end of your run!!
