Try using a vacuum to pull the dent out of the dust cap. I've done that a few times and it works great. Trick is to start and stop the vac fairly quickly with the hose on the dust cap, otherwise it can tear the cone out.
I've done that before. I find it works well on the larger caps and when air passes through them (fabric). You might like the way a sorted them in part 2. Hopefully upload later. Thanks John.
For a couple months I maxxed out the Tukans...running them actively with a brace in Naim electronics (CDS1/52/Supercap/Snaxo/Supercap/4xNap135 monoblocks). If the room was fairly small these gave perceived LF slam and pitch accuracy that was incredulous for their diminutive size). THE Tukans also responded very well to removing the PCB/xo that was even in line when ran actively. Ultimately, they were no match for the other two speakers I also had...the Sonus Faber Extemas were vastly more holographic, emotional and organic, while the Naim DBLs had a sense of scale and extension that made the Tukans sound like feeble computer monitors by comparison. But on the right music , they could match or exceed speakers at 5-10x their price.
The drive units were from Tonegen in Japan. Read the story of Rod Crawford the designer now of Legend loudspeakers in Australia. The tweeter is a ceramic coated aluminium dome and breaks up around 11kHz if you get a slight dimple in them. And - the inductor on the tweeter is also Iron cored and 0.18mH. The Woofer Inductor is 0.8mH. The 3 bar tweeter is version 3 - SPKR 015\3. Whereas Vers 1 and 2 had a wire mesh cover but same type of diaphragm. The overlap range of the drivers is a bit too large. Causing too much cancellation outside of the crossover point.
The original tweeter was made by hiquphon. They now make a OW1 tweeter which is a drop in replacement but is 8ohms but as the speakers are often used actively the user can reduce the gain in the aktive crossover card in the amplifier. The Tukan passive crossover has the ability to reduce the level to the tweeter by cutting the leg off one of the resistors. This is mentioned in the Tukan instruction manual.
Now you mention it that make does ring a bell. It didn't look like a Scanspeak tweeter. Agree with the resistors. With the values in place you could get a 3.3, 4.7 or 10 ohm values although there after the capacitor which would change the impedance it sees and alter the crossover point 🤔
Linn Isobariks (and iirc Sara’s & maybe kans) used Scanspeak D2008 to start with then switched to the Hiquophon later In production. You quite often see Isobariks with dead tweeters (careless active use??) having the blown Hiquophons replaced with Scanspeaks because they’re a fraction of the price to buy. Wouldn’t like to speculate whether they’re directly interchangeable with each other & whether there were any crossover modifications made when production switched from using one type to the other. Also the Scanspeak has had 3 fixing holes until very recently when they changed it to the 4 fixing type meaning no longer is such a straightforward replacement available for SBLs Isobariks etc etc as they don’t physically fit & I’m sure I heard the spec is slightly different as well.
Excellent teardown and analysis, Matt! Looking forward to seeing how these turn out (have always been curious about the Tukan after having owned a set of Linn Kan MK1's).
@@haycrossaudio5474 The Kan's I had were single-terminal pair, sealed boxes - identical in size to the LS3/5a (I think early batches even used old LS3/5a cabinet stock). I think the MK2's were slightly updated and had biwire terminals. They didn't play very deep and were more forward in the midrange than the LS3/5a especially considering they also used a version of the KEF B110.
Discordo e.faltou citar a limitação digital quanto a taxa de amostragem limitada a 44.1 khz pra gigantesca maioria dos CDs versus a taxa de amostragem infinita dos LPs. Com certeza tem bem mais influência sobre o que foi dito sobre leitura de frequência no vinil.
Halo , sir can i ask that i have a bookshelf venturi bic v620 speaker , n now i still using it , my question is the tweeter side original value electrolytic cap is 8.2uf 100v can i change it to poly film cap same value or lower by 6.8 , 4.7uf 250v or 400v can this tweeter original caps change to poly caps will do any harm to tweeter ? tq kindly advise as i am newbie here ! tq
Yes you can change it to a polypropylene capacitor BUT the capacitance value must remain the same. If its 8.2uF replace with an 8.2uF polypropylene capacitor. The voltage rating can be higher. That's not a problem but keep the uF the same.
