Logitech G2x/G92x motor upgrades 

please share the motor specs you used!

RS-775PH-3848 ?

775 is the size of the brushed motor. Just get whatever quality 775 you'd like that supports the voltage draw and get the supporting gears for the shaft size of the new motor. I personally would find one with a slimmer shaft size to match the g2x motors. It'll make finding the right gears easier. If the first set you get works size-wise, then you got lucky. While you're at it, grab a higher amperage and more efficient power supply for around $40 to get higher detail. You'll have quicker motors and a quicker, more efficient, power delivery to the wheel. I personally would go to a 5 amp 24 volt psu. I've also thought about overvolting it with a higher voltage psu, but I don't have the wheel to spare, because it'll most likely fry, but it could yield good results with noticeably stronger feedback at the expense of longevity, it all depends more on the motor controller rather than the motor itself when it comes to overvolting, because the chipset was most likely designed for 24 volts to be its threshold. But if someone intermediately techy made a higher voltage plug n play chipset, theoretically you could get insanely higher feedback. Just spit balling at this point

the 775 motor has a 5mm axe, it fits the gear?

I've read that the stock board won't hold up to the 775 motor as it draws more than the 555.

Yep! Def worth the upgrade!

Naaaah. the rest is screws and some solder. If you need the 3d printed bits, just let me know, I can mail it to you.

@@protomor Highly appreciated, got a bud with a 3D printer though.

@@cmbaileytstc I feel like everyone has at least 1 friend with a 3d printer :)

@@protomor Picture it, 40 years from now: “Replicator, make me a direct drive sim wheel capable of 25 nm torque and a high strength plasteel replica of the steering wheel from a 1941 Cadillac. Thank you.” *Two hours later* “International Patent police, open up, the holder of the patent on 1941 Cadillac steering wheel demands $34,000 credits or your summary execution.”

I really would just want to find a machinist to get the gears already made. I could probably make bank selling motors with the gears already on them.

@@protomor I wonder how far the supply of motors will reach for that. M36N-2 is gone. I feel like M36N-5E is running out as well. For sure you could find a manufacturer in China who will fashion you a motor and also a gear to order? Maybe worth a talk with LDO to adapt their CL3553?

I could easily commission something for sure. Initial cost wouldn't be much. I'm just not in a position where I can ship that kind of stuff out.

@@protomor Well somebody has to know someone who offers those kinds of services for sure as well.

I'd like to see one in action. The issue I had was that the space between the gear and the motor base was too close to get anything in between. Heat was the easiest option in all honestly. Cheap too. Plus, who doesn't like fire!

I think any of these mods will need more cooling for sure. I should get another stock logitech unit and compare these mods against 30v.

My wife watches these so I want to emphasize the SAFETY GLASSES

If anything, it'll probably make more noise. It's just inherent to the design. It'll never be quiet.

The G920/G29 are the same insides from what I recall. It's just PS vs XBOX. Here's a link to my last video where I do the G920 encoder wheel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BUvvYGKQLJ8.html (a bit over 9 minutes in).

I've used a pinion puller in the past and actually wound up breaking the brass teeth. I mean you can see how quick the gear just pushed off with the torch!

I think the GT is only one motor but otherwise the same. I used the stock power adapter for all of it but an upgraded one wouldn't hurt at all.

Yep! I've been trying to do the d1 and fdj tracks lately. Fyi the server lets you change tracks via chat. Instructions are in the welcome message.

Someone did it. I think the main issue is cost. At the amount you put into it, might as well get a direct drive.

Yea... I'm not entirely sure on WHY you need to do it. In some countries, black is positive (like house wiring) and other places red is positive. So I don't think you're actually reversing it. But also, the motors spin based on voltage given either direction so it shouldn't matter. I'm not smart enough to know why. I just know that it works lol.

@@protomor What voltage does the motors have in your setup, i'm planning to get the rs-555ph one

@@v1nnyvice factory 24v. Nothing extra

This mod is specifically designed to not need to upgrade any of the fets. What you see in the video is all I did. Even still using the 1.75 amp power brick.

That's awesome! Do you know the specs of the new motors u put in?

@@brunosoares2916 uh not off the top of my head. If you Google them, the data sheets are the second links though.

Cool, thanks man. I think I ordered the same ones as u, but mine are apparently supposed to be used, where did u get those?

@@brunosoares2916 the m36n ones I got were used off eBay. The 555 18150 were new.

Impossible, the whole structure of the wheel would have to be changed with new parts and would probably involve 3D printing and etcs, but no one has done this before so you'd be on your own to even begin this crazy project

Your answer ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZNrBQwilpzs.htmlsi=QNDgoXUiwUtpaP_6

In the description he talked about the m63-n

@@youdontknowme9068 thanks but i cant find that one too 😞

@@tibijczyktv77 they're pretty hard to find and buy nowadays, even in aliexpress it's been hard to find them, but there is your best bet

I need to look into other options but I don't have anymore logitech units to try out.

It doesn't change the software or anything of the unit so it will still work as factory

@@protomor Thanks a lot...any updates? Still working?

@@rocket7383 I've built about 4 of them and sold them all lol. Every one that I know of is still kicking. Some making more noise, some making less. It's all down to how mangled the gear is when you take it off.

Totally!

The M63N link still works. the 555 I think is this: www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832499160764.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US But double check.

Once I figured it out, it was a VERY simple process. The problem is that the replacement motors are hard to come by these days.

@@protomor yeah i cant find any :c im worried i'll have to replace my wheel entirely, my motors aren't working so when i plug in my wheel nothing happens and no steering is detected

@@Ivvelis I'd test them out but I don't own anymore logitech units. I'm sure there's replacement motors somewhere. Yuo can likely even find replacement stock units.

I've been looking but can't find the motors anymore. Let me know if you find similar ones!

Me niether ... I don't know which engine would be equivalent, I don't know anything about it

What do you mean?

I would but I'm not able to ship stuff out right now. Someone has to have a 3d printer near you... or it's an excuse to get a new hobby lol.

@@protomor you know, that's a GREAT point. AliExpress, here I come lol

@@randomletterandnumber hehe dunno about Ali express but an ender 3 can be found used all over

I'd have to have one in front of me to test. I'm not sure. If you go too strong, you'll shatter the insides of the logitech unit since it's all plastic.

I measured it at one point but no one sells replacement helical gears. The shaft size should work. It's the same. Just heat and press on

Holder should be mostly the same. But for the g29, I think you can just glue it on. Hard to remember

can you redo this video again with on-screen inatructions please? Thank you.

@@dcars806 like subtitling or you mean a step by step? I'd love to but I don't have anymore Logitech units.

Sorry for the late reply. The guy who bought it still uses it IIRC. But I don't know for sure.

@@protomor aight thanks no problem, got into this video when I was deciding what to buy between a g29 or a t300. I just thought that it was a very interesting and cool mod/upgrade if I went with the G29.

@@ekisagustin Eh T300 is kind of a waste these days. I would just go direct drive for another hundred or two. It's a whole other world man.

@@protomor yup i definitely agree. but my budget was simply not enough. well, i am new to sim racing and just testing if I am going to keep this kind of hobby. I'll probably sell it and upgrade if I got enough money but right now i am more than satisfied.

@@ekisagustin I hear you. Do what you can. it's worth it! I swear!

Never mix motors. even old motors and new motors of the same type. They'll fight each other and eventually kill one or both.

@@protomor figured something like that would happen lol, unfortunately i bought OEM motors, still happy my unit works tho :)

Here's one I cound quickly www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832499160764.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US but anything with that designation should be roughly the same.

pull the data off the STL I posted. it's close but I'm not entirely sure. Honestly, the propane torch was the only method that worked for me.

​@@protomor where did you post it?

@@zilvinaskindurys6126 oh wait that's the holder. Let me see if I can find it for you

www.thingiverse.com/thing:6001067 Here you go.

@@protomor Thank you very much. 👍

Only if the rattling is because something is loose and you tighten it while you're in there. But no, it won't make the unit any quieter. If anything, it'll be louder.

The model is in the description

Sorry for the late reply. But yea, it's the same motor and such. They didn't change much of the internals at all.

I really have no way to measure. I'd wager under 6 though.

The encoder tells the software where the wheel is in rotation.

I have no idea how to measure it. But my guess is 5 to 7 nm

@protomor that's so awesome! I'm keen to do this to my G29, but I'm honestly too scared I'll bugger it up. I have changed over the red rotary dial to a black one, so I've had it open before up to the wheel itself. I've also pulled apart the shifter to put a 3d printed spring pre-tensioner in behind the shifter spring. And also printed out a pedal extension for the throttle. So I've been enjoying moddind the G29 in one way or another to improve its functionality and looks. But this feels next level! I'm keen just by looking at how fast it can now move. I feel like that is the actual main area that the g29 falls short compared to a real car, is how fast it can spin itself. I'm keen on a CSL DD for this very reason. But then saw this. I've only had my G29 for nearly 3 weeks as it is. But I'm already feeling it's disadvantages. Although I feel for actual racing it's just fine, but for drifting, it just seems a bit slow and weak

@@GregoryShtevensh I would definitely recommend a DD wheel. Fanatec isn't my fav as they've failed me in the past. This motor upgrade will help but is not DD level.

@protomor unfortunately everything else seems too expensive in Australia. The Moza R5 is an option, but I'd get less for my money. With 700aud, I can get base, wheel, pedals, and clutch pedal, if I go CSL DD bundle plus clutch pedal But out of curiosity, what budget DD would you recommend? 🤔 Thanks for any help ❤️

@@GregoryShtevensh fair. I love my alpha mini though

Def not the same as a good wheel. But it helps a ton!

how far have you disassembled the unit? Something has to be loose or some teeth have to be broken. Make sure the wheel is screwed into the base properly. Also make sure the geared rack on the bottom has the tensioner curved metal leaf spring installed properly.

@@protomor I disassembled everything except the 2 bearings in the housing. All screws are tightened and the leaf spring is also installed properly. I curved it a bit more for more tension. Every gear has its teeth - not 1 has gone. The big plastic one looks good and the 2 brass gears too. I tried to see something without the cover but I see nothing. There are some guys with the same problem over the years, but no one has a solution for this.

I did run it without the cover...that is what I wanted to say.

@@marcels.7226 I'd have to see pictures and video. Something is loose somewhere.

​@@protomor Switched off or switched on you don't feel anything. No rattling, no noise. The force feedback is also buttery smooth. The clacking comes, for example, when you drive on concrete slabs with huge gaps like on Sebring 1966 in Assetto Corsa or GT Legends or Spa Francorchamps Historic in pCars 2. The first time I noticed it was in a 12h race with ACC on Monza while shifting through the Lesmo corners.

cope

Stop being self centered

Why do you care