Logitech G920 Broken USB cable - LFC 

you missed a trick. Could have put a USB port on the wheel so the cable could have been removed completely when not in use :)

Last time I did something similar, I just soldered new wires to wires comming out of the connector, heatshrink them and done 😁

it would be nicely have usb c port on front of it so dont need replaced broken cable so oftentimes and just unplug it and plug back in just save time n headaches that what i wish company would done in first place

could you just fit a USB socket underneath so that the cable can remain removable?

The end of the braded cable can burn with a lighter, in case anyone have one that started to unravel. Do it on your own risk.

Lead free solder is the worst punishment ever inflicted on electronics repair!!!

Hm i think maby is best to solder a female USB in that connector so you can just plug in and out when need to change the cable. That is my opinion.

Way too much work. Cut the cable and solder it to the connector cables and use heat shrink tubing..

Great video as always Graham. However in this case I'd just kill it with fire.

I noticed you forgot the toroidal choke, did you fix it off camera or did you get a clip on one.

Thanks for this it helped me fix a damaged wire on my g923. Slightly different tear down but still pointed me in the right direction. Cheers.

pull the tail through the hole

I broke my pedal cable, are there any replacements for sale?

Thats where I was going to park up 🤣🤣

Racing driver excuses are the best excuses.

Bro, i leaned so much in 2mins! Thank you so much. BTW. Im no Bot!

A bloke can never have too many screwdrivers ... 😜

highlight of this video is the end with a "driving lesson"

As much as I love PC repairs I also like these types of videos as they give me a look inside anything I might need to repair for a family member one day 😌👌

Man where were you when my dog chewed through the cable on my flight stick! 🤣

Hi great job. I may have missed it but did you replace the toroidal coil on the new cable or realise like I do that it is sitting on the bench next to me once you got it all together

Just asking why dident you just put a female usb in the side of it then if the cords keep breaking he can just get a new cord ?

Thanks for posting this video. I bought one of these second hand. Of course, the guy that sold it to me neglected to tell me that he broke the power connection on the back. I’m hoping I can I open it up and replace the power connector and get on with it.

The fix was great but the commentary on the driving and parking up was awesome. Thanks ever so much for the video. Great stuff

Did you refit the toroidal ring?

great job, these things called game devices are usually a real pita to repair or fix the way they are assembled.

I literally replaced my G29's USB cable 2 days ago, and I ended up reusing the whole connector and pin setup. Took a lot of iron work, along with a dremel, but it worked like a charm. Now I just have to replace the DB9 connector for my shifter and it's back to my sim rig it goes.

Ive been enjoying F1 22 and GT7 but for online racing F1 is where it's at

Some (usually cheap and unbranded, or cables recovered from crappy peripherals) USB cables don't follow the color code, I always check them with a multimeter to be sure.

You didn't put the toroid thing back on. I too wonder why, although I once had a laptop repair a long time ago, without the toroid on the charger the trackpad didn't work properly. Tosh laptop I think. Too me a while to work out!

Hey Graham, another interesting video, as usual. A useful trick when working with braiding; Do 2 or 3 TIGHT wraps of PVC/Kapton tape where you want to cut, BEFORE cutting in the same manner as you did. The tape will stop the braid fraying and leave a nice clean cut end (if left in place). For a more professional finish, use heatshrink, but that's more time consuming & fiddly. I also agree with others that a USB socket on the wheel unit (soldered to the factory USB lead/PCB header) would have been the easiest/fastest/neatest option, although slightly more expensive for parts.

01:29 -- Use a cable that utilizes a Magnetic connection via an intermediate USB adapter to which ' one end of the cable maintains contact magnetically and will 'break away' easly --- Such cables are often used for mobile phones - and can be adapted for other devices such as the type you are repairing. The actual magnetic ends are often USB-C -- However - that is not detrimental -- The point is to have a cable that will easily separate without doing any damage to the device or the USB port.

Why didn't you solder the shield wire on to the board where it came from. Just cut away a few strands so it would fit in the hole and use some shrink wrap?

The reason those pins were so hard to pull is because the pliers were soaking up the heat. Also why not just cut and solder the wires 10cm away from the plug?

i would of just put a Type A Male USB 4 Pin Plug Socket Connector With Black Plastic Cover ( you can buy them on ebay cheaply) on the end of the old lead after cutting off the old connector, then got a short USB extension say 1 meter or less for the emergency release. then you wouldn't need to take the wheel apart. but your repair does look great TBO.

Hello bro i have and old racing wheel and in the board i have two wires cut it's (6GD and 5GD) i connect it with 7GD and 8GD ??? And what mean 5GD??

That connector is a curse. The number of times it would blip mid race and the wheel would disconnect from the game and the only way to get it back was to restart the race.

I bought a wire for the G503 mouse. Wires were a bit thin compared to OEM wires, but no issues with power and/or data transfer.

You should try out some different adhesives. E6000 would work much better than hot melt glue.

Don't suppose you've come across a completely dead G923 wheel. Just stopped working. 5V and 24V power to board but does nothing. No lights or anything. It seems impossible to buy spares for these.

Do you believe there’s any wires out there that would match this port I’ve looked the description doesn’t say g920 but it sure does look very similar I might take the chance and purchase one (normally $12) and see but if you have any recommendations please let me know.

Invest in some strain reliefs Graham. Loads of sizes available on the good ole bidding site. I usually have several different sizes specifically for this reason. Makes it look nice and neat too :)

Insted of cutting a metal cable like you do i use it in cable screw holder so it keeps cable safe from pulling.

Hey, very nice video but maybe you forgot to tell to remove the 5 small screws on the backside wheel housing to be able to remove the wheel from it. On my wheel it wasn't possible to remove the wheel ONLY by removing the 6 big front screws.

I have a G29 "USB not recognised", the USB microcontroller had blown so i replaced that but still the same. Anyonew know of any other components i should be keeping an eye on?

Thank you for the great video. I have a question, what exactly was the problem with the wheel so that you knew you had to change this cable?

Just watched this video and wondered if you have ever come across an issue with the G920 where it wont power up? Ive changed the power cable but still no luck

One word ......'grommets' instead of 'rubberiness'. Aways have a selection.

I have a set of Logitech 5.1 pc speakers with a wired controller. the speakers are perfect, but I spilled coffee on the remote, so it stopped working. I have always wanted to replace it as it is only a volume control, on off switch and another switch to put the amp into faux surround mode. I have never been able to find a replacement part, or I'd have tried my soldering skills.

hot glue + heat gun on like 450c 500c melt glue to much higher temp than slow hot glue gun it make hot glue much much better with like 5x more strength on it. Try it :) i am doing this techinc for few years now and funded out its much better than just using stick normally with their gun. Cheers!

I'd have just soldered the wires to the existing wires and cover the joints with heatshrink tubing.

You did an amazing job well done

What was the actual fault? My steering is connecting to the PC then disconnecting straight away.. No buttons on thr steering are working

Time to get into Euro Truck simulator if you don't like racing but like wheels! Its very addicting!

I know this is kinda an old video, but I have a question. What if I dont pull the old connecters out and just solder the new wire on them, will it still work?

ha ha stop playing during your work ; sommething is telling me me that that you have tested it for hours afterwards :)

I must remember that for when I crash my car. That's where I was going to park up, ocifer.

Too much work. I'd rather put a new usbA connector on the existing cable.

When dealing with cables that are terminated with PCB connectors, what I like to do is leave a fair bit of the original cable in place inside the device and then solder and heat-shrink each individual wire of that to the new cable. That way, you still have the original connector and don't have to un-pin the connector, which is pointless anyway, because you can't properly solder to the pins anyway. Also, PLEASE solder the shield braid to a GND plane too - don't leave it hanging like that !

FYI next time fully remove the desk clamps it will make things far simpler

can you show us how to make an adapter that can connect the pedal / shifter directly to the PC ?

Hey my friend can i also replace the logitech shifter cable to a usb? So i mean just to cut it ane to replace the usb to conect directly into pc

Toriod?

Thankfully have not had to do this job yet. Good to see how others tackle the issue. Ty

Do you repair Logitech wheels no matter the electronic problem with the wheel❓

That was a good one Graham. I own one of those and have had many happy hours on ETS2 and ATS. Very interesting to see it taken apart like that.

2:36 Wera actually has a bit driver with a long shaft and it also has a ratcheting action... Also you can get long bits, I have a bunch for my Wowstick and my small-handled Wera bit driver.

I thought I was bad at soldering! Watching your channel always bolsters my confidence and makes realize that I am pretty competent after all. Keep up the good work. 😁

Thank you for the very educational content ! Very high quality ! Cheers mate

My powercable doesnt stay in its place, how do i fix that?

Here for the Solder to the board vs re-use the Connector Debate....

why didnt you cut on the other end? wouldnt that have been much easyer?

Why not leave the cable in and solder a new usb end on?

I would have changed the thermal paste

I thought you were going to retrofit a USB A socket

will there be a podcast on the secondary channel today?

Why did you choose not to re-use the ferrite core?

Hmm. Take the wire from the old mouse

The field is as good as parking spot as ny.

Has the new cable to be USB 2.0?

Nice finished work. Why you didn't keep the toroidal core ferrite ring ?

Don't ever offer me a lift🤣😂🤣😂😱

That breakaway cable is a nice idea.

Can you do that for me pleaseeee

you can't park there, sir

Funny thing, I enjoy playing Forza Horizon 4-5 using the keyboard, but I'd love to get a basic steering wheel for EuroTruck Simulator!

My only experience with racing wheels was back in the PS2/GC era with a fairly cheap wheel (I was a teenager, so probably £40-£50 at most). It had a fairly large dead zone, so didn't end up getting much use in the end. Now in my mid 30s, I have the money for a decent wheel, but probably don't have the time required to get any good with it, that's my excuse at least. XD I've also not really played many racing games in the last 10-15yrs, the last one being 'Gran Turismo Sport' which I found fairly boring if I'm honest. I did play a fair amount of the original 'Gran Turismo' back in the day, and did have some fun with it again later via emulation on PSP. I guess it taps into nostalgia, especially with the soundtrack, whereas the newer GT didn't have that going for it. Maybe I'd have more fun with a more arcade racer. I found a PC DVD copy of 'NFS Underground 2' a couple of years back, I should probably dig that out again and try and get its Widescreen mod working properly this time. Another game with a fun soundtrack, maybe there's a pattern there for the racing games I liked back then.

How do I book a repair pal

I've found on dodgy usb cables the shields aren't actually connected to the socket at the end, gotta test continuitiy. Even usb 2 qualtiy matters,some dacs get static otherwise, cheap cables not worth the gremlins.

I wonder if that's a UK thing. Never saw one in the US, although, I'm not a console guy unless you count the NES-001 I got at a charity store for $5, lol. Steering wheels are nice, but I found I could control much better with a semi-pistol grip controller with a left-right knob on it. Those are very hard to find, though, last I looked. Just using two USB cables might work. One reason a cable might not pull out is you cannot guarantee, and indeed it will most likely *not* be, a straight pull from a snag/trip. But, with a connector in the middle of the cable, even a USB connector, that will be a straight apart pull almost every time.

Not an expert either, but, basically, every wire is an antenna, by nature, so if you have devices sensitive to either picking up, or transmitting, noise over the air, things like that help. Back in my CB days I used to love going to pick up a friend and instead of honking the horn, just transmit next to their house and if anyone was watching TV they'd hear me telling them to come outside, lol. Fun at restaurants who had music or radio playing in the back ground. You could say "hi" to everyone in the restaurant and they all look out the windows.

Yeah so that’s not happening

I would have got a crimping tool and a proper connector for a pro. job. Not soldered the wires directly to the board. You overheated the wires and partially melted (damaged) the insulation, which will degrade and crumble over time and become a shorting risk. Plus I would have used a rubber grommet instead of hot-melt glue. Other than that, nicely done and, as always, well explained.

If you do this on a regular basis, can I ask why you just don't but a connector and crimp set? Would of been much easier :-)

Top stuff. I have a recently purchased a used G920 which has a split in the USB cable, it still works, but it is only a matter of time until I inevitably catch my foot on the cable and finish it off, so this will be incredibly useful to me. cheers.

There are a number of YT videos detailing the dismantling if this wheel. I’ve had to replace the wiring loom from the wheel to the circuit board in two of these as they’re so thin that they can crack internally and the wheel then behaves poorly. The switches than control upshift and downshift can also corrode slightly giving random shifts. Quire easy to clean the contact points and they function normally again.

Where can I get the cable

Hey man! Thank you for sharing this video. Question: you know the steering rack at 4:44, does it need to be fitted with glue? When I dissembled my steering wheel, it just came out! Not sure if it’s broke or not and can’t figure it out how to put it back in 😅. I would greatly appreciate your advise. Thanks

If you don't want the braid to frey, burn the end with a lighter. That will melt the strands together.

Do you play guitar?