@@onjofilms Lol, what? My older brother works as a programmer and designs videogame mechanics. It's impressive, but doing physical work so accurately will always be more impressive to me.
Thank you for sharing! I was searching building basement video. Good to know someone build basement in CA. I live in Bay area. House on hillside. So thinking about building a basement wall on the hillside.
I'd heard about this system years ago on a program where the basement and house were built in a very cold area of the country (northern US or Canada, don't remember which). Gives the strength if concrete combined with insulation on exterior and interior walls. I was glad to actually see a video of construction using the system.
Formadrain is the best product to create footings for ICF walls. They are light weight and easy to use. They are slotted on one side for superior drainage the entire length of the footing. They are easy to level and very home owner friendly. A first timer with some reasonable skills can create a perfect footing. I did it the first time by myself and it took one day to set it up including all the drain tile and installing some pvc cross drains to take the water either away from the slab or into an optional sump pump pit. I highly recommend a sump pump as well as either a gravity drain or a french drain depending on site layout. Formadrain is an excellent screed leveling system for your footing pour. It is also a great product for radon mitigation. Once you have a level footing I do not recommend pouring the slab until the ICF wall has been poured. This will allow anyone with a screw gun and mallet to plumb the forms. You can just use existing lumber from your building package to plumb your ICF's and then use them to build your structure. No waste. Simply screw boards to the plastic rebar clips in the forms and pound stakes into the dirt floor of basement for adjusting. If you pour slab first then you need a dedicated scaffold system that can only be used for ICF structures. ICF pours must be done in increments to insure against blowouts and voids in wall. Once your ICF's have been filled then all scaffold material can be reincorporated into structure and slab can be poured. ICF's are very homeowner friendly and make finished basements incredibly quiet and comfortable. They can lower heating costs by as much as 60%. This is ideal for areas where natural gas is not available. Propane costs can rise exponentially and fluctuate wildly with market conditions. ICF's can negate heating and cooling costs regardless of structure location and remove the chains of fossil fuel dependence. Remember you lose more heat through non insulated basement walls than through the roof.
Those forms are such a great time saver. But it would kill me not to see, feel & smell those new concrete walls in my basement . It's like this great security blanket.
Unless it has something to do with the seismic requirements, the horizontal rebar is on the wrong side of the wall. The rebar should be located on the tension side of the wall, not the compressive side.
Sean, I know it’s a YEAR LATER. But, please reconsider using the icf for a full basement. There are so many hidden advantages that are not shown here, including time, $$, and the top floor’s construction. I’ve done about 200 of these in your part of the world and they can make your building life better, more profitable and easier. Hit me back if you want some more inside. Here’s a TIP: You can actually use the ICF walls to support your first floor joist hangers, and can place them before pouring the walls if you know what you’re doing. Then, you simply put plywood down on the joists, walk around on them and pour the basement walls. The home is squared, and plumbed by your floor system.
It worked out well. I was glad to see the waterproofing go on. Maybe the homeowner should have had the hole dug out at least 3' wider all the way around just to give the waterproofing people more room to work in. It got done though. That thing will last forever.
Buiding regs in most western European countries require a hardcore stone base for the footing to sit on, the soil will absorb the water from the concrete mix to some extent possibly causing problems in the future
i rearly like your wall build and water profingits top notch..... whyle yoy are down there put 2 drain pipes around with alot of grawel around, the dranige pipe pipe are so low, i did this mistake only put one, i regreat that..
I must say the video is awesome. Just an idea for the next add some commenrary or minimal descriptions of why and what is exactly goin on for the oblivious like myself lol
I have built entire houses in that amount of time. From excavation to complete framing and roof deck with shingle down, ready for window and door install and plumbing and electrical rough in. 17 days 5 guys!!!
I have seen videos where vibration tools were place by the bottom of the outside walls and long flexible hoses were inserted into the freshly poured concrete to remove the air bubbles and insure that all spaces were filled. I didn’t see that on this video.
The drain tile placement starts a 12:36. To keep water away from the footing/wall interface and below the concrete pad, the top of the drain pipe should have been around the top of the footing. I know it is extra work to dig around the footings. My mistake was not being explicit enough with the excavator operator to dig the hole much bigger than the building size. I told him the building would be 36X36. That is the size hole he dug and that left me to make it bigger with my smaller tractor after he left. It was my first time building such a project but the excavator operator should have known better in my opinion or at least asked me enough questions about footing width and where the drain pipe was going. In my location we are required to have 16" wide footings for an 8" wall for residential construction. Most people pour 20" footings though. The footings in this video seem very large... I wonder if oversize footings are required in this location.
Chris LEA it is in northeastern California and is considered high desert at 5000 feet. Temperatures range between 95-100 at the highs to low teens to 30’s in winter, with occasional sub-zero temps.
At least in my area, ( mich) the footer tile on the outside has to be below the top of the footer. Our code. Makes sense in that if the water around the outside of the wall gets above the footer top it is also above the top of your floor inside the basement. Any water that high up can an will find a crack an get into the basemant. Any water below the top of the footer cant be a problem Ive been a excavator builder for 42 yrs, sure its hard to hand dig around the footer an install the tile below the top of the footer then cover with peastone but your tile wont help in anyway to keep water out of your basement I hate seeing installers do crap like this.
Patrick Smith the waterproof membrane extends 8" below the bottom line of block/slab seam and wraps onto the footing. I have done this waterproofing process several times on large homes with deep basements, zero leaks, zero callbacks. Going on ten years through many wet winters, but thanks for the feedback
Wow, I love this video, really learned a lot from it! Please pardon my ignorance, but what is the hole in the middle of the floor for? Also, once the basement foundation and walls are completed (as shown in the video), what happens if it takes a while before you go to the next phase of construction and it rains a lot in the meantime? What is the industry norm to prevent the newly built basement from flooding during heavy rainfall, do you put a tarp over the entire roof or something? Thanks in advance.
@@Constructor-ly8in He's talking about the dug out hole before pouring concrete in the middle. I'm assuming you have a post or lolly column going there and needed the footing for it?
Wow that footer appears to be about 4 ft wide and 3ft thick. I've put grade beams in for major builds that weren't that big . Big no no putting rocks of bricks under rebar to hold it up. Code calls for chair.
Timothy Evagash, you’re absolutely right about the rocks!! However, in Los Angeles, where my actual company is, we still use concrete dobies and they do meet code/are approved here. Footing was designed by my LA engineer at 3-8 wide by 18” deep. It grew larger because of the rocks and sand ancient river bed we were in.
99.3% of people reading your comment probably think Benny Hill was some kind of icf/basement system pioneer! LOL! Anyway, as an adolescent, I used to love watching Benny Hill - he was awesome...and the ‘extras’...
(Eng)Why did the rebar at the corners not bend at 90°? Have you studied the schemes and rules for binding rebar? (Rus)Почему арматуру на углах не загибали под 90°? Схемы и правила вязки арматуры не изучали? Если будет большая нагрузка на фундамент, без хорошего армирования углы стен могут расползтись.
Михаил Иванов which bars? All the vertical bars in the walls have 90 degree bends tied to the footings. Slab bars do not. The rebar was installed to the licensed engineer’s design/plans.
hi, i am from Denmark and enjoy folow your build, in my country we are a bit mad about insolation, and by law 400mm styrofoam in the floor under the concrete slap, and 30mm sturofoam agenst the wall, so the concreate slap are floting in a styrofoam bed, styrofoam will set a bit ower time, enogh to concrete to crack,
Gerner Larsen this location is in northeastern California and we get winter temps of -20 F, so insulation and an airtight build will be a big part of it. I did not want insulation under the slab as there will be a wine room which will benefit from the cool concrete.
Gerner Larsen this location is in northeastern California and we get winter temps of -20 F, so insulation and an airtight build will be a big part of it. I did not want insulation under the slab as there will be a wine room which will benefit from the cool concrete.
looks drawn out but maybe a daily reference on the video (sorry if i missed it) could have changed that impression. the corners tricked them more than a few times. another video watched at 2 X the only way i watch RU-vid.
The engineered plan called for an 18”x3’-8” wide footing, but we were building in an ancient river bed which created issues with finding a stable trench, cave-ins, etc, so the footing got a bit deeper than plan. We are in a seismic zone D there, also.
Is there information regarding comparative longevity of ICF compared to the cement block system mentioned below? To me, sturdiness and longevity would be a major factor to consider.
J. B. ICF's will last for ever, but they do require a finished surface where exposed to the exterior/sunlight, etc. I will be applying a stucco finish from the sill plate to a few inches below grade.
