I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ru-vid.comUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Your taper-compensation does not seem right. You are compencating quite a waze in on the log, compared to the top where you measured. Top vs loglifter is not the same, especially for longer logs! You are lifting the top a bit too much that way. Your first cut vs your third side cut reveals what I am talking about. The taper is way more visible on the third cut, because you liftet the top to much on your first cut. A simpler and more accurate method would be do measure AT the loglifters. You don't even need the tape-measurer. Just wind the log up until it flushes with the top of the built-in scale. Read the difference on the guides, and compensate with half the difference. :-) My method is assuming the logs are fairly straight. If the logs are curved, it wont work all that well. BTW, I own a 5m F2+. The longer, the more this will be visible. - Otherwize great video! 🙂
Great video, I've been considering getting this mill recently, your demo videos are the best I've seen, well done, detailed information without all the drama, thanks for posting this
Nice, video. Was reluctant to start a 30 minute video, but stayed for the whole thing because of all the information you share and your engaging way of showing it.
I've been doing a lot of chainsaw milling here on Denny Island on the BC Central Coast. We beachcomb all of our logs out on the shorelines around here and then either tow them home or take the mill to the log. I run an old blunderbus Stihl 090 @ 135cc, with a 42" bar with which I can max out my 36" Granberg mill. I do often get logs that are more than 36" but it gets pretty tough dealing with extra huge planks. Sometimes, when I get a really nice log, the live-edge planks can be worth more then $1000 each. As a chainsaw miller, and looking at the sheer volume of wood you're cutting, I expect you are breathing exhaust from time to time. I've been searching for some sort of face mask that takes ordinary air from 20' away and blows it into your face. So far, I haven't found a suitable product, so I guess I'll have to make one! I just love what you two are doing out there, clearly a very busy, lifestyle with plenty of good clean hard labour. And clearly, you're both having fun! As a kid, I lived in Wawa, Manitoulin and Sudbury, so I'm very familiar and nostalgic for the forest you're living in! I've got a bunch of RU-vids of some of my milling adventures -check Ingmar Lee. If you're ever out on the west coast, come stay with us here! www.spindriftpoint.com
Thats a great mill except for one thing. You have to have a log that fits the mill. You need a couple people or a forklift device to get the log in position. That sucks.
Nice video. I used to sit in a booth and run a carriage, with the log moving into the saw for a company, and it had a hydraulic log turner. I think it would be fun to have one of those mills like yours.
Hey Dave just wanted to say thank you for your videos on the logosol mill. You have given me good insight of what to look for. I just bought a used M8 going through it fixing it up before I start milling.
I thought the kerf on a chain saw was 3/8" or bigger. That 1" board scale you wrote on the leg of the mill is known as a 4/4 scale. I believe you can buy versions of that scale for all of the common lumber thicknesses. 5/4, 6/4, 8/4", etc.
I'm using low-profile ripping chain with a 1/4" kerf. You're right though that typically chain for a saw this size would have a thicker kerf. And yes, typically rough-sawn lumber that is truly 1" would be referred to as a "four quarter" board. The scale takes into account board thickness + kerf width, so if you're buying one, you need to make sure it's designed for the same kerf you're working with.
@@robertclark2714 After I made the post given above I sold my M8 sawmill bought an F2+ sawmill. The F2+ cannot do 1/8 inch clicks. I am 99% sure that the F2 is also unable to do 1/8 inch clicks.
So I contacted Logosol about ordering a F2. Got my quote and I must ask, how did you justify the price? I can order a quality bandsaw for $1,000 less than the F2 WITHOUT the chainsaw included!
Ooof, surely you can still get a new clutch cover? In Canada the distributor provided that for me. I'm not sure where you are located? That would be a real pain if the Logosol distributor in your location wouldn't provide you with a clutch cover, but worse case you should be able to get one from a Stihl dealership. Sucks to have to buy something else to get it up and running, but better than not using it at all, and once you start producing lumber the cost of a new clutch cover will seem negligible.
As usual great video! Thank you for taking the time to educate and entertain all of us. I purchased the F2+ this winter and have enjoyed milling with it. Have been using the Alaskan mill for years and feel it ups my production quite a bit, definitely easier on the body once the log is on the deck. The logosol mills are great for there intended use, just have to keep them set up properly and they make great lumber! Band mills are great and far more productive, but there is just something about making lumber and beams with a chainsaw. Very rewarding for me! The quality of lumber you can make with a chainsaw surprises alot of people that have seen me cut. Looking forward to your next video. Thanks again, Matt.
Hi Dave. When you set up the mill did you set the chainsaw bar to be perfectly parallel to the log bed? Or does the bar need to be canted away or towards the log bed to make a straight cut? Thanks. I really enjoy your vids.
Parallel to the log bed, instructions that come with it show how to shim the saws connection to the mount/ slider to achieve that (I think mine was parallel out of the box without shimming if I recall correctly)
@@filipandric8069 if you are logging trees with a chainsaw you should have a bit of insight on how to move and handle heavy object or you will not last very long :-). Seriously, with a few support logs and some leverage you can get things done...
Great content with your videos. Especially with the "scale", thinking of the last cut with the first cut. What do you use for bar lubrication? You referred to it as "water cooling". Thanks again.
Thank you for explaining the process. You and your family must be proud of your efforts, that is some great looking lumber. Will you show us what you have built in some upcoming videos?
I'm not necessarily in a position to help, and may not have much sway with Logosol, but I really like this product, and if I'm going to continue promoting it, I'd like to find out what's going on in your situation. Where are you located, and what distributor did you purchase through?
Great video thank you. Question: I’m considering buying an f2 to mill wood on a steep mountainside. This would require me to dig out spots for the legs to be level. My question is does the f2 require exact leveling to produce square planks? I’m curious if it might twist if not leveled perfectly. Any opinion on this?
Sorry for the slow reply. The mill doesn't need to be totally level, but it does need to be supported in a single plane, otherwise it might twist a bit when a heavy log is loaded, but it is quite easy to do.
I've been wondering on one of these. I have a granburg mill and I'm not sure of the advantages to buying one of these. I feel like I'm way more mobile with the granburg. Just wondering because I like the thing, just don't know why it could be better. I also like my string on my winch. It's real rigid and not spongy. Spongy causes me the saw to have to back off to much. Just picking your brain.
The Alaskan style mill is great for making slabs ,,,,Not so good at making dimension lumber with no easy way to clamp down slabs ,,,, My F2 should be here in 6 weeks after a mild vender delay
Tim I totally agree, Granberg set up properly can cut very accurate boards as well as slabs,and way more portable. The Granberg does involve more physical work but no way in hell would anybody be able to lift up a long and large hardwood log onto a log deck as demonstrated here without mechanical assistance. Value for money the Granberg wins hands down and a fraction of the price of the f2. I suppose each system has their merits but in my humble opinion you cannot beat the satisfaction of creating boards with minimal expense and hard work.👍👍
Check out our video where we take the mill by ATV and boat to an island site. We set up a simple ramp in front of the mill and roll the logs up using cant hooks
@@Lonewolve1988 That's a great saw for it. I think you'll find the 25" bar will adequate for anything you can fit up on the deck of the F2. If you get the F2+, then you might need a longer bar for some of the biggest logs. Have fun!
New to your Channel been looking for far away to cut my hardwood logs into Lumber to build a house to be off grid is there a way you can send me information about that and can it be ran off of a generator actually all the information you can send to me about this I would really appreciate it include any price of what it cost for one of these it is hard for me to be on my knees all the time most of the Alaskan Sawmills I've seen people has been on their knees using them so any information you can let me know of I would really appreciate it thank you enjoy watching your video
