@@Paiadakine First, I have to warn you that the one I bought is very hands on and does not come with a dust collector. The model number is CNC3-3018Pro. At this time they are on Amazon for $175. 🙂
Don't kick yourself for not buying the Thumb Pro, it's not worth the extra money. I've been doing some thorough testing with mine for a upcoming video, and it really isn't all that much better than the original Thumb tbh
Thanks for that info. The Thumb Pro was release between when I ordered a Thumb, and it showed up. Realize quality not great, but at the Thumb weight class, there is no other option.
This farm c-hopper design turned out to be a very nice build. That lock solid position hold while hovering with Arducopter is amazing. Adding a bit of foam over the baro sensor may help reduce sensitivity, as exposure to air currents (wind, drone motion, temperature, etc) can cause localized pressure variation. (or your sensor is going bad) With the carbon sandwich wood sheet used for the frame, did you apply anything to the exposed wood edges to seal the frame? Perhaps it's not a v1 concern. Did notice jello in the camera view (one tilt position more than the other). You probably could eliminated this by isolating camera on a plate that attaches with rubber grommets to the frame. Hopefully your camera and tilt mechanism didn't suffer with the close up raising terrain inspection. Higher S (voltage) setups will have less tendency to have voltage sag, as each cell needing to provide less current, so chemistry is working less hard. With 2-3s, voltage sag is more noticeable. Placing 2 similar capacity packs in parallel also have effect of increasing C-rating, as cells share the current load. Generally voltage sage is less an issue with longer range drone, as mostly cruising over a more narrow throttle range. (not like with freestyle, etc)
Yeah... those were the days! All manner of DIY H-quads when 5" basically had your choice of either Cobra 2300KV, or the bootleg equivalent from readytoflyquads. Everybody was looking at those Lumenier frames wishing they could splurge on carbon. Good times.
Had a thought about home antenna. Have you thought of a helium balloon for the base station antenna. Cable weight and such might be a lot. But just a thought…or some sort of ballon based relay station?
You can use a power supply to crank the voltage up to transfer decent wattage on thinner, lighter wire... and run a tethered drone fairly easily. There's already people doing DIY versions of automatic tensioners for the cable. Beats having to buy helium all the time, maybe.
To keep from grinding down the hardware on the bottom of my drone, I have been using "Ultralight EVA shockproof mounting pads", which are cheap and nearly weightless. While first learning to fly, I got nervous that I was getting too close to powerlines and hit my disarm switch, dropping me flat on the asphalt with one plastic spacer, and one plastic nut broken from the G-Force, but I attribute the lack of any further damage to those little miracle bumpers... So far, they seem to be protecting my "second" FPV camera pretty well too. :)
I had a clone dji f450 frame and used standard parts with 920kv 1045 prop and with 4200mah 3s i got around 22 minutes of flight times without camera and vtx and landing gear
I've found the multistar packs- although nice and cheap suffer horrendously from voltage sag. On one of my large octas the pack goes from 26v down to 19v on takeoff with payload. yikes. Nanotech has no such issues.
2 года назад
I can't wait for the next episode. Do you have a reliable internet connection through Starlink now? I hope better internet = more frequent videos... ;-) Thanks for the informative and entertaining content...
Leaving an upload to run overnight is not really a problem, so a better equation would be good weather = more videos. Between this and the OG talon I was flying for over 3 hours on that day. You really gotta jump on the good weather when it happens.
I know nothing about drones, but watch for the machining stuff. Instead of plywood have you considered using aluminum honeycomb. Pretty sure it would stiffer and lighter if it would work
The amp display is not working, I just forgot to remove it from the OSD. After flying for 25 minutes the charger replaced 4.8Ah, so that would be average of 11-12 amps.
@@iforce2d ah yep even that is no worries for most 18650-21700 things. 8ah 12v sounds pretty tempting eh. I have some 18560 and 21700 that would suit extracted from drill batteries. Pay shipping from Blenheim and can send a handful
Any more specs on those gimbal motors? I'm always trying to find good gimbals and gimbal motors. I'd like to know the size and kv of the ones you have. Thanks for the fun video.
Search for BLH8108 or Yuneec 2715. I seem to recall they're around 180kv, although apparently kv is not all there is to it: www.olliw.eu/2020/brushless-gimbal-motors/
I have spent a looooot of time chasing long flight times. The latest version of drone was predicted to fly 60mins and tested out at 55 mins. The next gen is predicted at 1.3 hours - watch this space. Like I say, lots of work and can get a bit compulsive!
So do you have a plan to make a VTOL plane? I also want to build my first VTOL using your homeslice technology. But maybe I'll make much more simple STOL canard, based on ugly, but successfull 2019 design before it.
Yes I'll probably make some kind of VTOL thing one day. I actually have a design that I've been toying with in OpenVSP, but the way you need to make compromises for each flight style and end up with both being not very efficient kinda bugs me. It would be somewhat like Peter Sripol's quad tilt rotor from 2012.
Acro mode controls degrees per second, not degrees. Sounds like you want auto-level mode, if you're intending to limit how far the quad can tilt away from level. These settings would be done in the flight controller, not on the transmitter or receiver.
ah you're suggesting that I could do that to prevent it from going too fast? Yeah that might be handy actually.... at least until I wanted to stop suddenly, but I suppose that could be done in pos-hold mode.
Yes, I believe so. It's not as good a conductor as regular metal though, so don't expect it to be useful for carrying current. Remember that it's made up of carbon fibers embedded in epoxy resin, which is not conductive. So it's just conductive enough to be annoying in various ways (unwanted contacts, RF interference).
I have the same frame as you ( blue/black) its a good solid frame but the legs are garbage, break really easily. if i could get some different legs for it i would be much better for my not so perfect landings =/
Yeah there is a weak spot in the legs that I can't figure out what it's there for. I wouldn't go so far as to call them garbage though, I mean they held up in that crash ok. Your landings must be pretty brutal :)
New Zealand, private property, permission granted by the property owner / special use airspace authority (the farm's manned aviation airstrip he's standing on for crop dusting the area). Trust me, I'm jealous of his situation, hehe ; ) I'd be flying mesh swarms in my pajamas 24/7 if I lived exactly there.
