Try to obtain the 10 foot Winegard mesh or the 12' Star mesh - both are 100% aluminum with steel bolts/washers/locknuts. Sturdy, over-engineered frames and fully articulated to swing the entire arc from horizon to horizon. Severe hail-storms were the only event that would ding that mesh, aside from clumsy installers. As well as they were made, I'd imagine they're still holding their parabolic integrity even 35-40 years later.
I'd give up and pounce on some kind of a commercial satellite dish and change the LNB. I took apart a mesh C dish for a friend and it disintegrated. Beware of painted steel mesh. Fiberglas can be sanded and painted with boat paint.
You did a good job, but why did you drill a hole into the feedhorn covers? Just about every BUD I've seen there is always one feed arm where you can run the coax through for a nice clean install. And if not, you can always run the coax down the feed arms with zip ties. I'm a hobbyist too, and own three BUDs. Apart from that good job!
I don’t like the idea of the coaxial cable having a bend in it. Electrical tape is better than zip ties. Zip ties can crush the dielectric in the cable.
@@NorthcoasterHobby I've had zip ties on for years here and nothing is getting crushed. I've had coax inside the cone for years as well, and no issue. Coaxial cable is a lot tougher than you think. If the coax breaking or getting crushed were an issue, I'm sure Uniden or Winegard would have pre-drilled holes into the cone for you already. To each his own I guess.
As much as I’d love to hook one up to my T.V with a digital satellite tuner already built in, I doubt my family would like that. I’ve tried to tell them they can get hundreds more channels.
C band dishes with solid panels or very fine mesh will work better for KU. KU signal wavelengths are very small. They might slip through mesh panels with larger holes as opposed to reflecting back to the LNB.
