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Lorch Model A Lathe - The Reveal and Assessment 

Adventures with a Very Small Lathe
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The Lorch Model A plain turning lathe is an antique clock and instrument makers
lathe. It was manufactured between 1885 and 1920 in Germany by Lorch, Schmidt & Co., later know simply as Lorch.
Join me as I unpack and go over a new machine that I was tempted by on eBay, and bought on impulse just a couple of weeks ago.
00:00 Intro
00:14 Unpacking
01:32 The fitting studs, plates, and nuts
04:43 Oiling the contact surface
08:55 Assessing the tailstock
11:25 The cross slide
14:51 Removing a mystery shim
28:16 The cross slide locks
30:25 The headstock
37:20 The motor and clutch
41:20 Outro
Edited with:
Davinci Resolve 18.6.3
audacity 3.1.3
Music:
Easy Lemon by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty...
Artist: incompetech.com/

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16 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 118   
@JohnBare747
@JohnBare747 7 месяцев назад
Those ball crank handles are attached with tapered pins just tap on the small end and they will come right out. Even though you say you can't see the pin on the other side on the cross slide handle I see it in the video they all are the same, Taper Pins a common method of attaching ball crank handles in this vintage lathe. Use preferably a brass punch and tap them out from the small end of the pin.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Thanks! YOu've spotted one of the issues with talking over the videos live. The camera can see way more detail than my eyes could at the time. Now I look at the footage, the pins are way more clear.
@BraxtonHoward
@BraxtonHoward 7 месяцев назад
Is the "pulleys are backwards" problem maybe a "motor mounts the other way" problem instead? Thanks for a great video.
@CrachOveride57
@CrachOveride57 7 месяцев назад
Due to the mounting plate under the motor that serves as a tensioner for the belt (under the motor's own weight) I would say it's the right direction but could be easily changed I guess.
@criggie
@criggie 7 месяцев назад
yeah - I guess the motor was mounted below the spindle, and reversed as well. If the bolt pattern is rectangular it should be easy to reverse.
@williampratt1066
@williampratt1066 7 месяцев назад
I have the same model, yes the pulleys are on back to front as on the treadle (mine is on its original stand and was originally a treadle drive), the belt goes down though the table to a lay shaft.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
The clutch lever doesn't seem to make sense the other way round, and the original catalog pics of this lathe with the v-belt pulley the opposite way round from the way mine is currently. On that basis I'm going to try flipping it and see how I get on.
@lohikarhu734
@lohikarhu734 7 месяцев назад
these type A lathes normally have an intermediate pulley set, so that the motor stays fixed, and the headstock drive belt moves on headstock and intermediate set for speed change....mine has a motor from an industrial sewing machine, which runs constantly, and a knee-lever engages the clutch one way, through a disengaged position to a braking position.
@CraftwerksMC
@CraftwerksMC 7 месяцев назад
I've been trying to dream up a method for tensioning my belt on my Atlast 10 inch lathe ever since I converted to a VFD and 3 HP motor. Sometimes the simplest methods are the best. Glad I took the time to watch your video today because the answer was right there before me. No need to overcomplicate it. Who doesn't have some spare plywood and hinges handy, lol.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
The ply and hinge mount seems to work nicely, and has been unexpectedly well made. This lathe must have been someone's treasured showpiece.
@_f355
@_f355 2 месяца назад
I have discovered your channel about a year ago, and watched almost all the videos since then. I'm a hobby watchmaker - like yourself, from what I can tell - and your content has been a major driving factor for me buying a PD250/e/PF230 combo for my corner-of-the-living-room workshop, and honestly I couldn't be happier. thank you for all the knowledge you've shared over the years, and even though it seems like your channel is in a bit of a hiatus right now, I sincerely hope you'll be making more videos going forward!
@GerbenPolder456
@GerbenPolder456 7 месяцев назад
I have been a proud owner of a similar Lorch & Schmidt Lath foe about 20 years. And while yours seems to be slightly older, mine is more complete and (I believe) more original. Though in all fairness, especially on how these were once driven and set up, seems to be tailored to the buyer need. The grease nipples seem to be replacements from the original oil ports though (with conical plugs on the two on the headstock). Mine is definitely in need of some TLC, and as it happened, I actually started that this afternoon. In my case, the bearings in the headstock are solid bronze bearings with (hemp?) grease cords in them. I should have pictures of when I took it apart. I can also provide pictures of some of the missing parts. Like the hand helt chisel support, the collet ring, collets and tightening rod. Once you have the lath set up (and greased up) it is easy to hold it by the driving wheel with belt, and with the chuck still on the driveshaft, put the key in it and turn it. It has been like 20 years, but I might have some more items that were sold with the lath at the time.. let me know if you are interested. You did find some things that I had missed though, and that will help me keep mine in better shape. So thank you..
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Hi! Thanks so much for commenting. I'm really interested in seeing your pictures of the spindle taken apart, plus the ones of the parts I'm currently missing. Can you get in touch via the email address on the "About" page of this channel? You should be able to see it by going to the channel "Home", and then clicking on the ">" next to the channel description, and then finally "View email address". I'm hoping your pictures will help me prepare for stripping the spindle down safely, without doing any damage.
@eyuptony
@eyuptony 7 месяцев назад
That's a very sturdy, small vintage lathe. Great project to follow.....Tony
@colsanjaybajpai5747
@colsanjaybajpai5747 Месяц назад
Very beautiful machine
@Rustinox
@Rustinox 7 месяцев назад
You're right. It is a cool little lathe and a cool project. Have fun with it.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Hi Michel! Thanks for watching! Loving the videos with your new lathe, and perhaps I'm a teeny bit envious too!
@daveash9572
@daveash9572 7 месяцев назад
Enjoyed watching that, thank you.
@vjdav6872
@vjdav6872 6 месяцев назад
Like always - a smile to watch. Thanks!
@edwelld
@edwelld 2 месяца назад
Love the videos you make. Hopefully there will be more on the proxxon. I’m looking at getting a lathe again thanks to your videos
@ADBBuild
@ADBBuild 7 месяцев назад
The lubrication fittings, while often used with grease, can also be used with oil. An oil can with a needle tip is used to push in the ball. However, with plain bearings in the headstock, dashpots would be much more appropriate.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Thanks, useful info. That makes the switch to oil easier to pull off, though i think in the long term it would be better to be able to see the oil level at a glance, and have a reasonable size oil reservoir so it doesn't need to be topped up too often.
@lohikarhu734
@lohikarhu734 7 месяцев назад
i seem to remember that the headstock bearings might be hard steel on cast iron, so need to be kept lubricated, but very thinly so...the end play/clearance is quite nicely done by feel, as it's almost like a 'switch' between just right and 'locked up', as per my memory...my smaller Lorch has a split in the hradstock bearings, and a screw to adjust each spindle bearing, as the spindle can travel about 5-6 cm when doing threading operations.
@BruceWSims
@BruceWSims 6 месяцев назад
Fun Fact: I was just watching your "scraping" video where you were addressing the saddle of Chinese (?) mini-lathe. I see now that the LORCH machine has a very similar situation as had the other machine. It would be interesting to see how this LORCH passes an examination of "its" tolerances. FWIW.
@mashcury
@mashcury 7 месяцев назад
What a beauty!!!
@joell439
@joell439 7 месяцев назад
Looks like a fun project 👍😎👍
@BruceWSims
@BruceWSims 7 месяцев назад
I tend to address thread problems by running a tap and a die across the threads. What I have found over time is that if there actually Is a thread issue....in either piece.....the risk is damaging threads in otherwise good condition by jamming damaged threads across them. FWIW 😊
@memyselfandeye1234
@memyselfandeye1234 7 месяцев назад
Nicely nice..... Nice one for Sharing peace
@oldfarthacks
@oldfarthacks 7 месяцев назад
Well this should be a fun little project. Very interesting.
@camillosteuss
@camillosteuss 7 месяцев назад
Ah, the best way of getting machines... You feel the Divine nudge and you just snag the machine... I just recently had such a moment, and while it was technically a shit move, as my shop is already overcrowded, tho on the other hand, it was the best move possible... It granted me a masterwork machine with minimal work hours for next to nothing, and i can use the machine as both an EDM sinker and a jig grinder in time when I manage to build a new shop and devote to all my projects in a space that allows me to do so in an appropriate manner... This ``very small lathe`` is adorable, and looks well made... Definitely not a tank my any measure, but a nice little machine at any rate... Especially once returned to quondam grandeur she once gleamed with... All the best and kindest regards! Steuss
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
I do have to be careful, as I could easily accidentally end up with way more gear than I can fit in. This Model A was too tempting, especially as the seller was willing to ship it. It feels way more capable than the 3 hobby lathes I have so far, and I'm hoping it's going to be a satisfying project getting it into shape. Thanks for your tips during the Premiere chat. I'm off to track down some ATF.
@camillosteuss
@camillosteuss 7 месяцев назад
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Yeah, tell me about getting too much stuff into ones own shop... I had like 5 machines which fit the shop perfectly, and i vapor sealed the shop, started arranging stuff, sealing the tiles and what not, only to suddenly end up with 13 machines in the shop(some in parts, hidden beneath other machines) and no room for any work... But come on, you actually aren`t even near that point, so don`t worry about it, and you aren`t hoarding 3 tonne machines that instantly slurp up cubic meters with just their footprint, let alone needed access area for operating and maintenance... That said, you really did snag some nice machines... I would be wary of taking on such small machines, but that is just my specific viewpoint that is formed from my thought projects and mental gymnastics... Regarding the atf, i`m glad, it`s a great lubricant/washing fluid, depending on usecase... Speaking of car essentials, you should try manual gearbox teflon additive... Its detergent free, just 80w oil with teflon, quite akin to moly grease, but its more like 00 grade grease or near solid oil... I use it on my ways or to lube up any fasteners on machines... I don`t mix it with the whole bucket of way oil, i just add 15% volume to my oil can for ways/leadscrew oiler injections... It works like a charm, and you can use it pure to lube up tailstock bores or similar quill bores where there is no real high speed movement... You can also get some car wax in solid wax form and use it on machine`s painted surfaces... It helps any oil or coolant just piss off without leaving stains or soaking into the paint and cracking it... It wont do much against hot chips, but it is great for keeping the machines looking like new and clean for ages with occasional reapplications... Ceramic paint shields would be better, but are costly as fuck, so wax does it for me... And kerosene will temporarily revive any healthy but oxidized machine paint, so you can do a kero wipe down of the whole machine, followed by some light acetone wipe down and then apply the wax... Don`t use it on bare metal surfaces, for those you have those rust inhibitors which do much better in that department, but to keep the paint looking great, wax will do nicely... All the best and sorry for the mega-reply... Steuss
@hamish7759
@hamish7759 7 месяцев назад
Very cool lathe, I’ve got a similar Lorch from a bit later on ( I believe 1930s), which I restored and it has been a great little machine. I wouldn’t worry about dismantling and rebuilding the headstock it’s as although it’s slightly intimidating it’s not too difficult, and even the adjustment of the bearing preload was pretty easy to set by feel. Good luck!
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Any hints you can offer on what order things are best adjusted? Pre-load, then the lock-ring, or the other way round?
@chimpmoon1856
@chimpmoon1856 7 месяцев назад
Cool Stuff... Thanks.
@michaelchristian8220
@michaelchristian8220 4 месяца назад
Really looking forward to this series of videos. I have the opportunity to buy an old BC Ames latheand I'm very much considering it.
@fna-wrightengineering
@fna-wrightengineering 7 месяцев назад
That's a sweet machine! Looks to be in good shape, outside of being dirty. Looking forward to seeing it brought back to its former glory! Those handles look like they're held on with taper pins. Hard to see on the compound, but on the cross slide handle, the end you can see looks to be the small end. You can just make out the outline of the big end, on the other side. As for the compound locking screw, I think a square head bolt with a nice beefy washer would be ideal, and more period-correct than the socket-head cap screw. You'd be loosening/tightening that fastener every time you adjust the compound angle, and I would think slot-head screw would get borked up in short order. The zerk fittings on the headstock bearings are meant to take oil. As you noted when oiling the rest of the machine, the oil will wash away any dirt or other contamination that find its way into the bearings... Whereas grease will hold it, and basically turn into lapping paste over time. Most people see zerk fittings and assume grease. I recently restored a Bridgeport mill that had zerks on the saddle, and the previous owner had packed the poor machine full of grease. There's a special pump-oiler with the proper fitting available, though modern versions are of dubious quality. You'd probably want to put drip-feed oilers in place of those zerks, or maybe oil cups with wicks in them. Something that holds a larger quantity of oil than the current fittings.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Thanks for the tips! Drip oilers does align with my thinking, though I'd never heard the term "zerk" before. TIL.
@fna-wrightengineering
@fna-wrightengineering 6 месяцев назад
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I think it's one of those things that's regional/generational... I've just always heard them called Zerk fittngs. Made me curious enough to look it up... Apparently they were named after their inventor, Oscar U. Zerk. TI(also)L!
@pyropenguin
@pyropenguin 4 месяца назад
I hope you take this the compliment i intend. At various parts of this video you sounded a lot like Alan Rickman. My imagination immediately went to a Hogwarts Shop Class for the Dark Arts. I would love to see/read the story explaining how and why wizards would use lathes. Sorry for my nonsense. Love your videos :D and i love you too!
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 месяца назад
I don't know of any way to take that except as an amazing compliment. :) Sadly I'm not nearly a talented enough writer to do justice to that scenario.
@torsiondell
@torsiondell 7 месяцев назад
For some reason my comment from 2 days ago hasn’t been added so here it is again. The motor looks to be a Pultra mardrive I replaced my motor with a Jack industrial sewing machine motor instantly stops and plenty of torque, the chuck backplate is best removed when you remove the spindle , you can get oil pots from HLE Shop just got some for my Pultra P type. Good video by the way.
@glencrandall7051
@glencrandall7051 7 месяцев назад
Appears to be a nice lathe. Be interesting to see how it works out after cleaning and maint.🙂🙂
@wibblywobblyidiotvision
@wibblywobblyidiotvision 7 месяцев назад
That's a beautiful little machine.
@skyfreakwi
@skyfreakwi 7 месяцев назад
Turn the motor around 180 degrees. The pulleys will line up and the handle will fall to the side of the lathe instead of reaching over it
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
The catalogue pictures show that the lathe shipped with the pulley the other way round, so the motor is correctly set up for the original configuration of the lathe. As I need to break down the spindle to change the lubrication, I'm going to stick with putting the pulley back to its original orientation. Thanks for the suggestion, as it would probably work perfectly if I wanted to avoid interfering with the spindle bearings.
@seansysig
@seansysig 7 месяцев назад
There are taper pins on all the handles. Use a hardened needle punch and a little heat to drive them out from back side. Use a composite hockey stick for the clutch handle. Soak greased bearing housings in hot kerosene to remove old grease.
@profandrewstarr
@profandrewstarr Месяц назад
The motor and clutch is a Mardrive. They were a standard fitting for Pultra lathes and some sewing machines.
@robertfontaine3650
@robertfontaine3650 7 месяцев назад
nice little lathe.
@gerritvisser
@gerritvisser 7 месяцев назад
I would vote for the headstock pulley being assembled backwards. I was given an 8mm Elson with 'bad bearings' It's spindle was assembeld backwards. Ran fine after reversing the assembly.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
I've dug up some original catalogue drawings from the late 1800's which show this model with the headstock pulley the other way round, so I think you're right. Trouble is I have to completely disassemble the spindle to flip it around. I need to do that anyway to clear out the dirty grease and switch to oil, so no extra hassle.
@cavemaneca
@cavemaneca 7 месяцев назад
​@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I was thinking the same thing. I've seen a lot of restorations of pulley driven lathes and almost always the largest pulley size on the headstock is closest to the chuck.
@TheKnacklersWorkshop
@TheKnacklersWorkshop 7 месяцев назад
Hello Al, A very cool lathe indeed... I noted that the "25" was visible on the cross slide... I would imagine that all the other major parts should also have the same "25" which should indicate that everything was machined/scrapped as a matching set. If you have a rouge number then you may well have some slight alignment issues. I am looking forward to more on this project. Take care. Paul,,
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Hi Paul! This is the problem with recording the voice chatter while I am recording video: the camera gets a way better view than my aging eyes! Once I looked at the video, I spotted the "25" in loads of places, so it must be some kind of set number. I've seen these numbers on lots of watchmakers tools I've poked around.
@lv_woodturner3899
@lv_woodturner3899 7 месяцев назад
I have had good luck holding pulleys by using a wood clamp on a belt in the pulley applied across the diameter. This requires the belt to be a bit proud of the V. Nice old lathe.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Nice idea, thanks for the tip!
@josephkrug8579
@josephkrug8579 7 месяцев назад
In regards to the handle pin, on my screen, at around 24:10 you can see what looks to be a circle on the opposite side of the pin in the shiny glare off the light...like there is the other side of the pin sanded smooth to the flat on that side of the 'ball'. Could be wrong, but maybe that is the other side you can tap on to get the protruding end to come out? Fun video. :)
@brucematthews6417
@brucematthews6417 7 месяцев назад
At time stamp 42:19 give or take a second or two when you show the "blank" side of the handwheel center ball I'm pretty sure I can see the circular outline of the pin in the glare of the light. I think this is a regular thru pin but it was filed or sanded or peened down on that side. So a punch with a cup on the tip to set onto the exposed small ball end of the pin SHOULD push it out. This is supported by how the longitudinal travel hand wheel shows obvious heads on both sides for the retainer pin. It's highly likely that the other has a thru pin too to keep things common. For some reason some older owner cleaned off the head of the pin on the cross slide hand wheel. I gather all the black on the parts that I figured was black oxide or parkerizing is in fact light corrosion that was oiled at some point to make it look black. The darkness of the chuck rather supports this idea. You've got your work cut out breaking down each and every sub assembly and polishing those parts back to proper slivery metallic and giving them the right sort of glossiness. But it will be SOOOOO worth it. What a sweet little machine!
@lohikarhu734
@lohikarhu734 7 месяцев назад
those old type A's (like mine) have a mix of metric and, maybe, BSW...the spindle on mine has something like a 1-1/2 x 7 pitch (memory needs a refresh cycle!), and i did actually find a tap in the correct size, so that i could make up another backing plate.,. my type A has a bit of wear on the bed, kind of a "dip" about 5-10 cm out from the 3-jaw chuck face, where i guess the cross slide moved along the most....i was thinking of "filling" it with some of that epoxy/tungsten disulfide material, but the material comes in quantities of about 10x what it needs, and it's not 'dime-store' price, either...
@EmmaRitson
@EmmaRitson 7 месяцев назад
could be lengthy... the thin plate, is probably because one got lost. might have a spare... the 25 is the lathe number im guessing should be on all the matching parts. that be a washer, not a shim, lol. im guessing someone put it there becaue the screw didnt do up tight on one side.. at least the filed the side off so the slide returned over it., the hole in the top, is probably definately an oil hole. the oilers. probably fairly easy to upgrade them to button oilers, Pin is a taper pin, rivetted on the back. spot drill it and give it a bang. they went away from that by about 1920 i think. PULLEY IS BACKARDS AROUND. when you fix that have a look at the collet key. also, youre over thinking the headstock bearings. their will be a thrust race under the knurled ring. adjustment is dependant on speed. set it up so it doesnt quite grab at top speed when its warm, and its gonna be loose at low speeds. probably. that backplates gonna need a big bang. a pin spanner to fit the holes maybe? the clutch, i think if it was me id think about a cable drive and a foot pedal? has your tailstock been machined out to Morse taper? anyway it has potential. well done. was going to stay awake to watch it live, didnt happen.
@robertoswalt319
@robertoswalt319 7 месяцев назад
To remove the pins holding the handles, remove the handle and shaft from the assembly and place the pin over a hole in a bench block. You ought to be able to tap the pin out safely.
@brianclark2370
@brianclark2370 7 месяцев назад
Hi. I Can Not wait to see it runing
@JohnDoe-qg6hm
@JohnDoe-qg6hm 7 месяцев назад
Interesting but a little heavy on the 'artistry' ! Cycle the pin with heat and penetrating oil and then drift it out from the rear ! If the rear is blind and the pin is in a blind hole then secure the shaft or ball and apply pressure until you snap the pin then drill and ream to suit a new pin.
@twotone3070
@twotone3070 2 месяца назад
I am curious about the visual effect of the oiler hole on the cross slide moving when you wipe it with the cloth at 22:55 ?
@mikejackman4416
@mikejackman4416 7 месяцев назад
Great find…do you think it could have been from a on board ship machine shop?
@Jacksparrow4986
@Jacksparrow4986 7 месяцев назад
Don't be afraid of the conical bearings. I worked on a few for bycicles and you can feel if your in the sweet spot: no play and free spinning. To get it just right, you need to make very tiny turns at the end.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Thanks! I'm interested to know more about conical bearings in bicycles. Is this something that was used in the past, or are there still bicycles made today that use this type of bearings?
@Jacksparrow4986
@Jacksparrow4986 7 месяцев назад
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe they are still widely used. Some parts of the higher-end equipment moved to industrial bearings, but some say conical bearing runs nicer (e.g. bikespeeds here on the tube), maybe a run-in period improves industrial bearings. Ceramic bearings are the absolute top, very low friction without any lube and very durable. I treated me some jockey wheels and the Ceramic ones make very nice fidget toys :-)
@Jacksparrow4986
@Jacksparrow4986 7 месяцев назад
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe about the time period, I can only say that my cycling maintenance books from mid-90s include a section on cone bearings. I guess industrial bearings popped up in on of the 2000 or 2010 experimental waves.
@nashguy207
@nashguy207 7 месяцев назад
I hate when you buy something and it gets damaged in shipping like you clutch lever. Good luck hope it can be repaired.
@bmalovic
@bmalovic 5 месяцев назад
I understand that you want to go to oil in the spindle bearings. But.. meanwhile... new grease is much better than old gunked grease :) And new grease can push out al the dirt.
@plang42
@plang42 7 месяцев назад
Get yourself a big tub if Evapo-Rust to clean all the metal parts. It will make all the bare metal parts look near new 👍
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Unfortunately Evaporust is quite pricey this side of the pond, so I'm cautious about using lots of it. That said I do have a tub full lined up to work on this lathe, but I'll remove excess rust manually before I dunk the parts.
@egreteric8618
@egreteric8618 7 месяцев назад
Bonsoir une petite idée du constructeur de ce tour ..?? j'ai le même mais il n'est pas complet. Si vous avez des infos sur la référence de ce tour ..?? Merci d'avance.
@messylaura
@messylaura 3 месяца назад
do you still use the proxxon 250/e? i have a 3.5 x 6 meter uk garage, yeah big for uk but it soon gets small with other tooling and it needs to accept a car too, so the 250 is a good size for me was wondering if now you have the bigger space its not a lathe you use any more etc loved the vids over the years
@zolatanaffa87
@zolatanaffa87 7 месяцев назад
Now you have to change the name of the channel: Adventures with Very Small Lathes :-) Good work! To remove the handle from the threaded rods you could try by heating them or, very carefully and protecting the handle, by making a small weld on the head of the pin typically by gluing the electrode onto the head to create the space on which to apply the force to extract the pin itself. just out of curiosity how much did you pay everything?
@MF175mp
@MF175mp 7 месяцев назад
I think he had already more than one very small lathe (3)
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
Yep, I've featured 3 on this channel already, The original Proxxon, the Chinese CJ0618, and the Unimat SL. I'm fond of the name though, so I don't think I'll change it just yet. The Proxxon is still with me on my adventures, even if it's no longer the only lathe in the shop.
@zolatanaffa87
@zolatanaffa87 7 месяцев назад
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe ok sorry, but I met you when you were already working on the mini Unimat and I thought it was the only one, mine was a joke due to the lack of knowledge of previous adventures
@lohikarhu734
@lohikarhu734 7 месяцев назад
these normally have flat belts for the drive, about 5 cm wide.
@janporkpie
@janporkpie 7 месяцев назад
Excellent video - but replacing that cap screw with a slot head might be a mistake. Perhaps something you can put a spanner on?
@janporkpie
@janporkpie 7 месяцев назад
Also, the manufacturer put grease nipples on the headstock. Perhaps the headstock bearings should be lubricated with some kind of grease? I'm looking forward to this series of videos, thanks Mr AVSL.
@randyshoquist7726
@randyshoquist7726 7 месяцев назад
I agree. A square head would be better than a slotted head, and I think it would be in keeping with style.
@lathemillwelder920
@lathemillwelder920 7 месяцев назад
​@@janporkpiethey look like grease nipples but are designed to take oil. Myford lathes have similar nipples on them if they don't have the oil cups on them. I've recently cleaned out a Myford ML 10 that had everything packed with grease 😢 while the Myford says it has to take oil. On the Myford lathes only the gears take grease, all the rest oil. Also on bigger lathes you can see an insert with a ball bearing in the middle that is flush with a surface (cross slide, ...), these also take oil and not grease.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
The grease nipples aren't original. Having spoken with Emma of Emma's Spareroom Machine Shop, who owns a similar model A, these lathes were originally fitted with oilers, and the bearings are designed for oil. A previous owner may have switched to grease for a specific reason, or just because it doesn't need to be changed as often as oil.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
My main reason for thinking of slot-headed screws is that would match every other original fastener on the lathe. The square head screws on the chuck look shop-made. I do agree that square head screws would fit with the look of the lathe too, so I may go that way.
@paullewis6612
@paullewis6612 7 месяцев назад
That pin on the handle does indeed go through the handle. Rub some fine sandpaper over it. You’ll see it !! I’ve got a 100 year old lathe to do up too, priorities!!
@leslieaustin151
@leslieaustin151 7 месяцев назад
If you look closely you can see the pin on the other side of the handle-head in the video. A bit of a rub with the fine wire brush should show it clearly. That number “25” is surely a production number (it’s stamped on several parts), so that parts fitted to this lathe don’t get put on another lathe and cause ‘fit issues’. Exciting to see old tools and machines brought lovingly back to spec and back to good use once more.
@Pushyhog
@Pushyhog 7 месяцев назад
nothing wrong with that impulse buy.
@Oberkaptain
@Oberkaptain 7 месяцев назад
I know it is probably heresy, but if I got a lathe like this, I would use it as a base and CNC it.
@tylerufen
@tylerufen 7 месяцев назад
what anime is the wait animation from?
@DolezalPetr
@DolezalPetr 7 месяцев назад
I have the same question
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
I'm afraid I can't help you. The animation is provided by RU-vid for the start of video Premieres. It's the "Sci-fi" option available from a list of about 20 to choose from.
@WSmogpule
@WSmogpule 7 месяцев назад
Terrible music for the intro; please do not repeat!!!
@Hiksan5
@Hiksan5 7 месяцев назад
That motor might be from an industrial sewing machine, they use that type of clutch
@edgeeffect
@edgeeffect 7 месяцев назад
New channel "Adventures With A Not So Small Lathe"? ;)
@hobbyoverload
@hobbyoverload 7 месяцев назад
The backplate on the headstock spindle, isn't this left handed thread? It looks to me you're trying to spin this backplate counter-clockwise instead of clockwise. But if it was righthanded thread it would turn itself loose during operation....
@jeremylastname873
@jeremylastname873 7 месяцев назад
The pulley system was a deliberate attempt to use three sizes of belt. 😂
@MF175mp
@MF175mp 7 месяцев назад
Could be a taper pin on the handle, you can try to measure if it's smaller on the other side.
@cooperised
@cooperised 7 месяцев назад
As he showed, you can't even _see_ it on the other side. It's some sort of blind pin, unless the other end is just so flush you can't see it.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
It's not visible currently, but I may be able to expose it by cleaning and removing the surface rust.
@seamusbolton215
@seamusbolton215 7 месяцев назад
New subscriber here, very interesting video I would imagine that the shim is to reduce the backlash on the cross slide From years and years of retracting the cross slide, the flange on the cross slide nut has eaten a pocket into the face of the of the cross slide and probably on its opposite moving surface where it wears when the cross slide is advanced I cant imagine a pin in a blind hole in such a quality machine, I wonder if you file a small flat on the opposite side where you can see the pin and then use some of the techniques that the welders use for detecting cracks or examining weld penetration the pin location could be found ? Thanks again for your efforts
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 7 месяцев назад
I think you're right about the shim, especially as there is so much scoring on that side of the flange.
@RB-yq7qv
@RB-yq7qv 7 месяцев назад
😃😃😃😃😃😃
@624Dudley
@624Dudley 7 месяцев назад
As impulse purchases go, this one seems quite justifiable 🧐
@abdulrehmanghafoor8307
@abdulrehmanghafoor8307 5 месяцев назад
What is it worth?
@GerbenPolder456
@GerbenPolder456 6 месяцев назад
Hi Tony, I reacted on your comment twice now, but somehow I don’t see those reactions. And I fear you might not either. I sent you some e-mails with pictures that you are free to share, but wonder if I can provide more.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 6 месяцев назад
Hi Gerben, Thanks so much for you emails! I sent you a quick reply just now. One possible reason your comments might disappear is if you included a link in your comment perhaps? RU-vid silently deletes all comments with links, and there is nothing I can do to retrieve or allow them. I'm really grateful for the photos you sent me via email. I'll get back to you soon once I've had a good look through them.
@1911Earthling
@1911Earthling 3 месяца назад
Should do complete detail job.
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe
@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 3 месяца назад
That's the plan. This video is just unpacking and first assessment.
@1911Earthling
@1911Earthling 3 месяца назад
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe retired watchmaker very picky sorry.
@user-nz4iy7lo3y
@user-nz4iy7lo3y 5 месяцев назад
a gentleman turner trying to be one.
@nikolayboev9948
@nikolayboev9948 7 месяцев назад
the motor looks oversized for such a small machine
@egreteric8618
@egreteric8618 7 месяцев назад
u
@marcusreynolds226
@marcusreynolds226 7 месяцев назад
"PromoSM" 😭
@user-yp7cf1mc5z
@user-yp7cf1mc5z 5 месяцев назад
У меня тоже есть ЛОРХ, только винторезный и больше вашего.
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