Got both diffs fully rebuilt with factory 7k in the front and 10k in the center. The front diff sounded horrible but as we got it opened up all parts and casing look great. In part 2 I was able to duplicate the sound and my guess is the diff fluid has broken down and become so tacky that its actually causing the internals to stick together like syrup. Fresh fluid completely fixed the sound."Alter the gear ratio by using a smaller pinion or larger spur gear. This will increase torque (and motor life) when running in mud, deeper puddles, or any wet conditions that will increase the load on the motor for an extended period of time" Basically anywhere besides a parking lot Losi advises to install the provided 10T pinion and especially with 3 cell 11.1 batteries. With a 10T pinion and properly shimmed gears the stock housings work great. Part 4 we bring some life back into the Currie F9 metal axle, stay tuned. Thanks @RJeezy.5 for reminding me of why the 10T is so important in my opinion.
I wonder if V2 came with grease and V1 with fluid....maybe. Couple days ago I put the vitavon trans housing in because the stock one warped enough to just let so much fine sand in and decided to open the center diff again...almost all the 100k had spun out. New gasket and I added extra extra black grease in the same spots. Hopefully keep it in this time. Trying out a double spare set up right now..def need those chassis braces ;-) You running 3s or 2s with that 10t?
@@rjeezy.5746 Crazy, the Raptor Rey when I changed the rear diff to a locker had no fluid in it just grease, I wonder if that is the miscommunication? Using O ring specific grease under the shim is where I suspect the leak is and would be where the oil is most likely leaking from. Seems pointless but I assume the O rings can swell/shrink without it. I used some thick WD40 specialist grease on the motor plate, pinion plate and transmission housing to create a fine catch for debris and its working pretty good, also used that grease on the rear axle 3rd member to also create a seal around the casing. I noticed the more I tightened the 3rd member the more if flexes away from the axle housing, I also use a big sticker to block the motor plate on the bottom from the fine debris. Cool to follow along on these builds and get ideas, thanks for watching man, have a good weekend.
@@rjeezy.5746 3s all day lol, but I think the provided pinions are more for marketing the top speed and put a big load on the entire drive train, taken from the Manual "Alter the gear ratio by using a smaller pinion or larger spur gear. This will increase torque (and motor life) when running in mud, deeper puddles, or any wet conditions that will increase the load on the motor for an extended period of time" Basically anywhere other than a parking lot they advise to install the 10T pinion and in my experience its the key in longevity with these trucks and is plenty fast on 3 cell and can run a 2 cell just the same. Hope this helps, happy shredding.
@@DoubleClutchProductions Good idea on the grease. I'm a bit ocd so these little nuances bug me. I almost out Silicone on the plate and arou d the housing. But tolerances were pretty close so I left it. I ended up having some home window foam that I used on the bottom plate and it seems to be working so far.
@@DoubleClutchProductions I have surprised a few people that I am only on 2s. They think it's on 3s for how fast it is. Faster then a lasernut on rough stuff. I'm going to try the 10tooth with the 2s. It should lower the top speed and gain some bottom end right?
Love a winter project, Rock Rey has the same diffs but different gears. I built my Rock Rey with all Baja Rey parts, even the motor, essentially making a Baja Rock. Thanks for watching 👍
One area of disappointment with the SBR2 is that it came with metal shielded bearings - at least on all four axles and the transmission cluster gears - not sure about the pinion gears but I'd bet those are shielded bearings as well. The diffs run on rubber sealed bearings (at least the center diff does anyway). I would expect a premium priced RC to come with premium bearings throughout. These trucks are meant to run in mud, dirt, sand and extremely dusty environments so I think they should come with sealed bearings. Maybe I shouldn't complain; if it was made by Tamiya, it probably would have plastic bushings. lol I have to say I've never seen anyone use liquid threadlock on plastic before. What type of threadlocker are you using? Edit: Permatex threadlocker that's made for plastic.
I have been using permatex blue gel threadlocker on plastics in the airsoft industry for years, and you can actually get screws to hold in mildly stripped plastic with permatex. All threadlocker is doing is acting as a breakable bond between materials similar to glue. As long as it doesn't react with the plastic it's a great option! Sorry for the late reply
Front Diff 7k, Center Diff 10k, Rear Diff grease is what Horizon Hobby replied in an email. If will hold fluid I would run above 10k to be closer to a locker like the version 1 truck. 👍
Version 1 Baja Reys came with a locker in the rear so no diff fluid in rear. Contacted the Losi ground rep and got the diff fluid weights from Horizon Hobby, 7k front, 10k center.
Losi is building good cars but not strong enough to support the power. I have a super baja and a baja 1/10, both just let me down: the tyries, the overheating, the axes, everything. The price is too high for such a garbage.
@@ForrestTaylor22 Shame such big RC channels aren't using the manual or reaching out to the Manufacture for specs on replacement fluids or spring rates. Thanks for watching buddy hope these videos help
