Lost Wax casting: How to burnout ceramic shell, (option 2) with No Kiln!

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Let me show you how to burnout a ceramic shell when you do not have a burnout kiln. In this method i use a propane weed burner that allows me to methodically remove the wax and bring the shell close to vitrification. This is the second part in a series that shows different ways to burnout.
ru-vid.com...)
0:00 intro
6:44 1st attempt
12:25 Micro-vents
15:11 2nd attempt
18:46 conclusions
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Safety Gear:
Optrel welding Helmet e684: amzn.to/2X7RS41
North 7700 half mask Respirator: amzn.to/2LHxHEJ
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North Backpack Filter Holder: amzn.to/2ZkQWMr
North 75SCP100 Gas/Vapor Cartridge: amzn.to/3gMuceK
Miner Boots, Oliver 65 Series 10": amzn.to/2X7Swyt
Equipment and Tools:
Stainless Steel Wax Carvers Set: amzn.to/36aiYvw
Presto 06003 Electric Multi-Cooker: amzn.to/2LHrYid
Weller 25W Soldering Iron: amzn.to/2Ziras3
Dimmer Control: amzn.to/2X9oLgP
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Materials:
Foundry Wax and Ceramic Shell: Remet
www.remet.com/us/remetproduct...
You will need to call 1-315-797-8700 ask for Bob Wartella (rep for small scale foundries and casters. Tell him Lunarburn Studio sent you.
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Timeline Achivements
May 2, 2020 first content video
July 23, 2020 100 subs
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Disclosures: All opinions are my own. Sponsors are acknowledged. Some links in the description are affiliate links that if you click on one of the product links, I'll receive a commission at no additional cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.
***DISCLAIMER****
This video is for entertainment and educational purposes only. Most if not all sculpture materials and processes are inherently dangerous. You must always use precaution and wear the proper protective gear.
These videos are not intended for children.
By reading this statement you acknowledge that there are inherent and significant elements of risk foreseen & unforeseen associated with foundry and metalwork, including being close to potentially hazardous and dangerous materials.
With full knowledge and acknowledgment of any potential risks, You hereby release and discharge Lunarburn Studio LLC and the owners from any and all liability for personal injury, property damage, or wrongful death that may result from replicating any activity in this/these videos. You agree that under no circumstances will you, your heirs, your estate, or your personal representative present any claim against Lunarburn Studio LLC and its owners.

Опубликовано:

3 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 48

@biged621 Год назад

Thank god for this man. Everwhere Ive looked everyone who talks about burnout has been like "no you NEED this $2000 kiln". I feel like in every hobby there are people who insist you need to spend big bucks. Its like this in astrophotography too and its always exhausting to hear from all sides that the project you want to do has to be pushed back till next paycheck.

@LunarburnStudio Год назад

I am glad you found this helpful. A actual kiln will serve you better if you are in a location that will allow it but you can certainly build a burnout kiln for way less then $2000. MOre like $250, basic wool liner in a 55 gal drum with a weed burner.

@laurelhermes Год назад

Really phenomenal demo and commentary! I was looking to move my small production ceramic shell work from a space with pre-existing equipment to my own diy/minimalist space and wax burnout was my biggest hurdle. This was great to see and ignited a lot of ideas. Thank you!!!!!

@stefandixon6434 3 года назад

Great video! I did my first ceramic shell poor today. It went well. Thanks for the videos.

@edparadis1578 3 года назад

Great work Eric!

@chasingcountenance5440 3 года назад

Thanks for this suggestion and demo! Never tried burning out with a weed burner...could sure help justify burn outs for a couple small investments without a need to start up the burnout kiln!

@peterkaras6395 2 года назад

You're a good teacher. Thanks for all the info!

@LunarburnStudio Год назад

Glad your finding my videos helpful!

@madnoodler 2 года назад

A 55 gallon drum and Kaowool lining works with the weed torch. We cut the drum down and cut a hole in it. It had a lid. Then burnt out the wax into a steel bucket of water. The shells were on a steel table we built from scrap but it had spaces for the wax to through. Good video

@LunarburnStudio Год назад

Its great that the process is so flexible when it comes to the burnout. But anything that you can do to make it more consistant is helpful.

@rickardwall1473 7 месяцев назад

Thanks a lot for this informative video!

@krroes 3 года назад

This was super helpful sir!!!

@LunarburnStudio 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful! Let me know if you have any additional questions.

@IDD.Bronze.Sculptures 2 года назад

i use this method sucessfully. I have found thatif you hit it full blast from the begining you dont get cracks. The shell doesnt crack with thermal shock, it cracks because the wax expands before it melts. Hitting it hard with the burner causes the waxto go from solid to liquid so fast it doesnt have time to expand so no cracks. Once the wax starts flowing out a gap will have been created between the wax and the shell protecting it as the bulk of the wax heats up and starts to expand. I find it best to start at the base and work my way up which ensures there is alays a clear route for wax to flow out.

@LunarburnStudio 2 года назад

Agreed, good technique.

@dekutree64 10 месяцев назад

Seems like it would work great with 3D printed patterns, which can be hollow so there's no trouble with expansion. PLA should vaporize before the ceramic vitrifies, so you may effectively eliminate the burnout step entirely.

@noviceartisan 3 года назад

Loving your videos Eric, when I get to the stage where I'm making things on this scale, I'm gonna be rewatching all of them many times :) Will you be demonstrating steam-dewaxing as an option?

@LunarburnStudio 3 года назад

Steam like in an autoclave? never tried. But will be doing video on boil-out.

@noviceartisan 3 года назад

@@LunarburnStudio Well, technically steam. I'm using a tall household veggie steamer on my hob to dewax my flasks with at the moment! I cut out the un-needed metal on the bases of most of the stack, so i can put quite tall objects in. Never would have considered using boiling water directly, really thought that'd dissolve an unvitrified shell haha Looking forward to your next installment ^_^

@LunarburnStudio 3 года назад

The ceramic shell becomes water impermeable once it dries. Does not slip back down like traditional ceramics/clay.

@lordkyzer2 3 года назад

👍

@robinson-foundry 3 года назад

Thanks for the good information! I think I’ll try this method with suspendaslurry. Sorry if I missed it but did you mention how to patch the holes? I’m thinking a combination of fiber reinforcement and slurry. Thanks.

@LunarburnStudio 3 года назад

You didnt miss it, working on that video now. but you are on the right track, 3 layers of slurry, fiber and a bit of stucco works well.

@DavidSnooWilson 3 года назад

In the UK we have stuff called fire cement which I use for patching holes. It's a putty that comes in tubs and you can just smear it on cracks or venting spots. It's mostly used for patching wood burners or home fire places

@LunarburnStudio 3 года назад

@@DavidSnooWilson Cool, I have seen that product mentioned a few times. Just ordered some to compare to other refractories we have here in the US. Thxs for the suggestion.

@EV4UTube 3 года назад

I saw a vid showing how to de-wax by submerging the ceramic in boiling water in a 55 gallon drum. It seemed effective, fairly fast to complete (after water got to boiling), relatively low-tech, inexpensive, allowed for recovery of more wax (which floated to top), little danger of cracking the ceramic with even heating, and other benefits. I can foresee the potential of expanding wax before channels are evacuated, but evacuation happened so quickly, maybe that's not actually an issue. One drawback was that a very thin film of wax coated the exterior of the ceramic caused by pulling it out of the boiling water with molten wax floating around, but that seemed like a minor inconvenience. Have you ever tried this method?

@LunarburnStudio 3 года назад

I have done this type of burnout and will be doing a video on it shortly. its a great way to de-wax but it does not vitrify the shells, that would be need to be done with an additional firing, in either a gas or electric kiln. The two main advantages of this method is the high amount of wax reclaim and the substantial reduction of black smoke. The down side is that its slow (take some time to dry shells) and the extra step to vitrify.

@atmm89 7 месяцев назад

at what temperature do the wax melts at?, could you set your kiln at that temperature to melt your wax then set your kiln to vitrification for very small amount of smoke????????, you may have already talked about it. All the best for 2024

@LunarburnStudio 6 месяцев назад

Different waxes melt at different temperatures. The microcrystalline wax is used softens at 160F and is liquid at 190F. If you only heat to that temp. Your shells will crack from the expansion of the wax. You ideally want to flash the shell in a account that’s over 1000°F for about 45 seconds. Then you can put it in a cooler kill at a 350° for the wax to slump out. By flashing your shell at a high temperature, it liquefies the outer surface of the wax. As the remaining wax starts to expand, it will push the liquid wax out of the mold.

@Kurogane_666 3 года назад

Can I use this method for plaster of Paris molds?

@LunarburnStudio 3 года назад

No, the plaster can not handle the thermal shock. It holds onto the water that will turn to steam and crack your mold.

@mariolegrange4447 Год назад

I see that skull is pretty big. But say I have plaster shell the size of a coke can for just a ring. Will this blowtorch technique for melting out the wax work then fir such a small shell?

@LunarburnStudio Год назад

The torch method actually works better with smaller shells as it allows a more even heat.

@anitalim Год назад

What does vitrification mean? If you do a burnout with a kiln rather than with a torch is there less risk of creating problems like cracks? What would've happened if you ended up getting a crack on one of the more detailed areas of the skull?

@LunarburnStudio Год назад

1. Its basically the point when the silica particles fuse together making that clay or silica object ridged. 2. Burning out in a kiln is ideal because you can crate an even heat all around the shell which in return creates less cracks. 3. Cracks are fixable. Depending on the size of the crack metal will flow in and form a ridge of positive metal. We call that flashing.