I remember hitting it early in the morning with the Rock, the Bare, Eric Hopps, and the Dalton Gang. We'd sneak out because Marine jeeps were watching the beach.
lowers is the most competitive spot ive ever been. you catch like one wave and then everyone else catches waves. then you catch your wave and someone yells at you for dropping in on them when they dropped in on you.
Climbed through the perpetual hole in the fence in ‘75. Watched one guy get taken away on a flatbed golf cart. Got chased through the jungle by Marines. One stood in the back of a jeep with a bullhorn yelling “Give-up, no one has ever made it through here!” Psychological warfare. Made it to the water for a great session. Walked out through the neighborhood to the north. The security guard at the front gate said go back or he’d have us arrested. Climbed back down the cliff & walked out in SC.
EpicSurfNews, and nowadays everyone’s walking down to church too. Used to be church stayed chill even when lowers was shoulder to shoulder. Now every swell, all the HB boys are out backpaddling and snaking like it’s cool.
Funny listening to these guys that wasn't there in the late 60' s and 70's when you only had 10 guys out. This place is best ridden on a longboard but these new guys can't handle them.
Im lookin for a guy. Hopefully a surfer. If you are the one, you would have been about 8 to 10 years old and it woulda been around mid 90s. You and some buddies were at the beach with boogie boards and some guy came along and told you to get on your feet, then gave you his surfboard. Anybody??
You noticed it's overcrowded & a handful of good waves/gigantic mob? 1989 was the most uncrowded time of all. Surfers (mostly longhairs SoCal) were ostracized through the 70's (for rebelling against rich capitalists) that lasted until about 1999 when the hype started. Yet people started to complain around 1995 about overcrowding. The hype started (1999) and rich little brats took over after all that "it's a waste of time" ostracizing talk back then & the longhair surfers died of malnutrition.
Well no squeaky balls. Here is someone saying its' kind of weak yet rippable. I do twice the off the lips as most people but the wave has to pipe a tad more. The left was piping back in 1989, they didn't mention that it got worse but can still be often better than the right. For Jordy it needs to be better and it could be, just too rare. I am here for more and more for everyone. It is you the lairs pretending to be that as we all get less and less with your hype. It's all across America, hype
ya go down in the mornings and watch polfer surf. those name droppin guys are there about 2 weeks a year max. SICK OF industry JIVE. P.S. surfline in the worst thing to ever happen to the sport of surfing
