Set super slow drip of the solution into the overflow. Drop at a time over 24 hour period. The water going down your overflow and pipes into your sump will have a chance to react and has to run into 5 or 1 micron socks where the precipitate will be filtered out by the sock. Watch your alk as it will drop too. After 48hours your socks will be clogged. i wash and reuse them. Repeat as needed.
Arragonite (rock and sand) binds phosphate, a lot, creating a equilibrium with the phosphates in the water. When you lower po4 with chemicals the po4 will fall and rise until a new equilibrium is found. Be careful with the lanthanum, tangs sometimes die when using the stuff. I would do more water changes and keep using a little gfo to slowly lower po4. Also the macroalgae will lower them of course. You dont NEED to add iron for chaeto, although some do. Enough people do only water changes and are fine. Dosing things like iron can be more of a danger if you dont know how much to add (Recently I read a guy accidently dropped a bottle of iron in the tank losing all his fish and tons of acropora).
Thank you, great advice. I think that I'll now focus on running chaeto and see if this with some initial lanthanum dosing will get me safely to the range I seek. I agree that it must be the rock / sand that's leaching it back.
I have a reefer 250 v3 and a tiny refugium before the skimmer (red sea designed it that way!) I brought a tunze ecochic fuge light and a golf ball size chunk of cheato,in 4 weeks or so the cheato was the size of a small football and I had to lessen the hours of light the cheato was getting as my phosphates dropped from around 0.4 down to 0.03 in 4 weeks!
@@TreasureCorals reefbuilders aka jake adams has a good vid on his fuge....makes me wonder if your sump had not much room if you could plumb in a smaller tank somewhere? Alot of peeps use the old ATO tank.
I commented on your first video on this topic (I was having similar issues); you responded, but I forgot to reply. Sorry about that. My corals are doing better now. I'm following a the Reefmoonshiner's method for trace elements. Andre, the creater, recommends the use of witch hazel to kill off the bad bacteria causing the spread of tissue necrosis along with a bacterial suppliment called prodibio biodigest to suppliment the replenishment of beneficial bacteria to bring things back to balance. As for phosphates, I can also recommend the use of rowaphos instead of normal GFO. A small amount of it wont remove the phosphates so drastically, and it lasts for longer (Abe from Coral Euphoria uses this with great success although he maintains an ULNS so he has barely detectable-non detectable levels of phosphate anyway according to his test kits).
Hi Dmitry split the L/C dosing to morning and.night when lights are off . My phosphates rang between 0.00 - 0.19 .I dose 8ml x 2 ( or there abouts) to bring it down to say 0.02 and keep it there with dosing 2ml/3ml L/C x. Am/pm daily . I test for Po4 weekly and alter the dose accordingly through my ecoral dosser . I have a tunze cheto reactor that I run at nite when lights are off . I’ve been using L/C on my mixed reef 75 gallon for over a year and my purple and tommi tangs are very happy😂 👍. I have been thinking of running small amounts or rowaphos in a reactor 🤔🤷🏻♂️.Hope this helps ,keep the vids coming 😀👍🏴
Seems like your filtering capacity is not enough to handle the amount of food that you feed. Chaeto based refugium will help, but it will take time (you need a lot of chaeto to consume 4-8 cubes of frozen food). Sounds like your best option is to increase water changes till you have some better ways to control the nutrients.
Same... Have a 3-5 year old tank.. I say that cause j have a few new rocks. Im running a tiny chaeto section in my sump, it sucks nitrates fairly well (with a freshwater AI prime). I've put in a few doses of it, .25 ml, week later still at .184 phos. Waited 4 weeks, dosed .25 ml again. Maybe we are using the wrong filter sock? Apparently it needs a low micron sock.
Been using LC for 2 years now with good results. What is your PO4 target? I shoot for 0.06-0.08. I’ve had dinos before when I get too low. Thanks for the video.
Lanthanum I find hard to keep stable, so I moved away and setup a fuge, i then Setup an algae scrubber as well. Now I simply feed as much as I can to keep the tank at .06-.08 range. 24/7 on the fuge and scrubber. It’s amazing to see cyano in the scrubber and Caulerpa going nuts. I also use floss like you and use no filter socks. Floss is cheap and saves washing and fussing, Sometimes I want to setup a second tank the same size and have it run as a fuge and just feed super heavy. Corals love heavy feeding if nitrate and phosphate keep low.
I had the same scenario. Your rock is leeching phosphate. I was using brightwell phosphat-e. It should have taken 40ml to get to .03ppm. 1 month later and 500ml later I am at .12ppm. I can literally see the crystallized phosphate on my rock as well. It looks like a white fungus. Waiting on some seaklear to arrive to finish the job.
It wasn't the fault of the GFO it was you lowered it too fast. If you would have kept the flow rate at a slower pace, it would allow slower phosphate removal
Hi Dnitry My phosphate went up to 0.13 and I discovered my RODI water with salt was 0.1 before I put it in the tank. Have you checked your water supply?
@@TreasureCorals I was going to check just the water before I added the salt but I am not sure if the Hanna checker would give an accurate reading. I presumed it was calibrated for a brine solution. I use Red Sea Coral Pro salt at the moment and it would be good to know what the Phosphate is in just the RODI water
