My 1999 lx 470 has this as well and the air box was flooded with power steering fluid when it failed. I disassembled the valve and predictably the O-rings were shot. Planning on trying this delete for a while and if it causes trouble, I might just replace the valve with a new one. I also just used a short M14x1.5 oil drain plug with a washer. I capped the intake ports for the tubing as well with regular rubber caps. Simple and easy.
1) THANK YOU for uploading this! 2) Now, I am SUPER CURIOUS: a) What benefit was there, to originally having this valve in the first place? b) What is the drawback of deleting it? c) Probably answered by, "a," but if there is no drawback to deleting it, why-o-why did Toyota put it there to begin with??
@@quentabyte Yes. The ATF in the power steering system will drain but your transmission is a separate system. might want to specify that one so people dont get scared to do the job.
Hi Jay, I have a 96 ES300 with only 75K miles, power steering was leaking, so I replaced the pump and this high pressure hose, however, for the LIFE of me, I couldn't get this "idle up valve" (part# 17630-74010) off... stripped the bolt trying! Must be seized in there! Anyway, I'm presuming that part I can't remove still works, but since I can't get it off... dealer wants $200-300 for it! cheapest I found online is eBay for $125. I REALLY don't want to pay that much for this ridiculously tiny part, but don't know if I do what you're doing, whether or not I will regret it (i.e., car stalling when turning the steering wheel or overall driving funny with this hack you mention). I don't have a spare on laying around like you did, so some mentioned just getting an M12 or M14 oil pan bolt and sticking it in there. What do you think? Also, can you provide a link to the silicone caps or instructions on how to cap off the two vacuum lines. Now that it has been 2.5 years since you did this hack on your LS, any regrets?
quik37silver hey, That sucks that the valve is stuck so bad. Maybe you can get a valve from another model Toyota. They seem to all look very very similar. I can’t say I’ve ever measured the thread size and pitch of the oem valve. But you could probably take the pump to the store and find a short bolt that fits. I no longer daily this car, but I drove it for a long time with this mod. I’ve done this mod to almost a half dozen 1uzfe v8s. The only difference you will notice is this: While at rest, idling, if you were to turn the wheel, the idle would drop slightly. This is what the valve compensates for. As for the caps. They are just silicone caps I got at my local auto parts store. I have a few different sizes I keep around. Just follow where the vacuum lines go, and install the caps in place.
OB 15 the hardest part is getting the valve to crack loose. It's very tight but as soon as you get it to move, it will come out by hand. Just ensure you have your 17mm on there good and giver.
What issue was this causing before you deleted it? My sc400 has idle surges when in park and nuteral, but not when in gear. Any suggestions? IAC valve?
Jay T my issue was the valve allowing fluid to be sucked into the intake a burned. For a surging idle make sure the cooling system has no leaks or air bubbles. Make sure the idle control stepper valve is functioning. finally try cleaning the throttle body and resetting the computer ( pull the positive battery lead for 10-15mins).
Thanks a lot bro, it is possible that cooling system isn't 💯 because temp will raise when car is idling too long without movement, thought it was because the fan wasn't spinning fast enough, but unsure. Also, I put a new transmission in recently, when I did I had the radiator serviced. Therefore put all new coolant in, but I had to reapply fluid a number of times due to it getting hot. I think ur right about an air bubble, but what is the proper procedure on bleeding the coolant? Ik there is that plug about the thermometer housing where you apply it, but not quite sure if I followed correct procedure. Also no heat in vehicle, believe due to bad or clogged heater core, but unsure. I very much appreciate your assistance and speedy responses. You the man! Ik you shouldn't put contact info out there, but is there a way we could get in verbal contact?
Jay T sorry I’m not willing to give any contact info out over RU-vid. I will reply to your questions here though :) Proper procedure is as follows: 1: jack up the front end of the car as high as you can, or park on a very steep hill. 2: making sure the car is cold, remove the 17mm coolant plug by the thermostat. 3: turn on the car, set the heater to hot ( set the fan to low)and let it run till it’s at operating temp. I usually let it idle until the temp gauge starts to move, then I hold the engine between 1-2000rpm at various intervals to encourage any air pockets to get moved and burped out. Once fluid starts to push out of the plug (and no bubbles come out) then you can reinstall the 17mm plug. Then check the coolant over the next few days and top up as needed. You can also squeeze coolant lines ( not just the two for the rad) to help move any air bubbles along. If you still have issues with overheating and lack of heat in the car you may have coolant flow issues ( bad water pump or a clogged heater core). Is the radiator in good shape?
Jay351 thank you! Will try that procedure tomorrow, yeah I didn't raise the front of the car when I did it last time. (I'm rookie mechanic lol) Hopefully that helps with the coolant issues. When topping off, I take it the same procedure is needed? Yeah the radiator is in top top shape, pressure tested and flushed. How would I find out if heater core is clogged? Also, because I don't have heat, is it still important to have it on when adding coolant? Also, just to clarify, let it start to overflow without bubbles, before putting the plug back in? Should I start with cleaning the idle air control valve, or bleeding out the coolant? Or does the order not matter? Can't tell you enough how much I appreciate you. Also, I don't have a problem dropping my Facebook link and connecting from there, if u'd feel comfortable with that. If not, I don't mind commenting on here. I'm just a lil more efficient with verbal communication than written 😂
Jay T I know on my ls400 the heater core valve wouldn’t operate unless a fan speed was selected. This is to ensure the coolant can flow through the heater core and remove any trapped air pockets. If you just set it to hot and not select a fan speed, the valve may remain in the closed position, not allowing coolant flow. You want to see pure coolant pushing out of the 17mm plug hole. If fluid and bubbles come out, keep running it till no more air comes out. You may have to do this a few times. I would do this first, then clean the throttle body and reset the ecu. Then after that proceed with cleaning/testing the idle control stepper valve on the intake manifold. Also, I am unfortunately not on Facebook, I limit my social media exposure heavily!
You need to use Teflon tape on the 1/4-20" bolt or atf will bleed out. The size of the hole is slightly on the small size for this bolt size but I had it laying on the bench and just used it. The first one I did I used an oring and it failed, just recently went back and added Teflon and it works perfect.
No, there is no way to just cap the plastic nipples, there will be too much pressure. The valve usually just needs to be cracked loose then it will unthread by hand.
I used a 17mm crowfoot on a 3/8" ratchet since you do need some leverage to break it free. I don't think a 17mm stubby wrench would have worked for me.
You don't say if the Car ran great after this fix? Someone suggests that the Car would run with a high idle if you connect a hose from the Airbox to the IACV. I myself blocked the two tubes with part of the rubber tubing and blocking each with part of an Artists Brush handle. The Car idles fine, however the reason that there was a Vacuum pump via the Power Steering Pump is that it assisted trying to turn the wheel when stationary. So light, but made more difficult without that additional part. When pulling away from a cramped parking space you don't want to necessarily give the Car some throttle to build the power to the steering especially in busy traffic. I'd like to put the Part on the replacement Chinese Pump (which came blanked with a bolt) and there's a good vid on here of a guy showing what fails in the part. Basically two "o" rings. Just too lazy to get under and dirty!
stuzeviews car ran great for years before I parted it out and got something else. When I ran it with the hoses connected it never gave me any issues, but I felt the caps looked cleaner. To date I’ve done this mod on a half dozen 1uzs, never had an issue. I just cap the two vacuum ports off with silicone caps. The steering assist on this car was strong enough that I didn’t need the added bump in pressure at idle that the valve provides. If you’re a weak 80 year old you will probably want to keep the car stock. I’d suggest you don’t waste your time with a Chinese pump it will just fail soon and probably take your alternator with it. Rebuild an oem pump for great longevity.
That is wrong....After plugging the power steering pump you Must cap both ends. Don't run the hose from the air intake to the intake manifold as shone or the idle speed will not drop below 1000rpm.
I’ve found that an oem replacement is the only solution if you want to retain the idle up function. Aftermarket parts just don’t do it. The mod will outlast the car if it’s done right. Good luck!
Typically when this valve fails, it pulls power steering fluid into the intake manifold which is then burned. It causes smoke from the exhaust as well as causing the power steering system to go low on fluid. Deleting the valve will just eliminate all these issues for cheap. At the sacrifice of the slight increase of idle rpm while turning the steering wheel that the valve provides. Or replace the valve with an oem quality replacement.
i bought a new control valve that was $130 from autozone and then i put the new one in and it didnt even thread in all the way, made it leak way more, I think now im just going todo the delete.
Steering feels the same except at idle and turning the wheel there is a slight drop in idle speed. Exactly what the valve compensates for. I have done this mod to 5 ls400s thus far. I then capped the lines off of the intake. One leaks a little, the others are fine
Clive Byrne you got it. There’s usually a good puff of blue smoke at start up. I really did this mod because I didn’t want to buy another valve. I figured the benefit was not worth the cost. Plus the plug won’t ever leak when done right.
