@@jackdub7740 it made the truck a blast to drive. It wasn’t cheap, but worth it if you intend to keep your rig for some time. It constantly breaks people’s necks as nobody expects a truck like this to sound so mean. Additionally the 90-94 1uzfe is one of Toyotas most overbuilt and reliable engine. The one in my truck had 380k on it when I got it (for free) and I’ve beat the snot out of it for almost 8 years.
@@Jay351 that's typical toyota for you. The trucks are known to be bulletproof so why not make it a muscle truck as well. Then i can stop being bullied by the rams and suvs at green lights
No, bellhousing is not the same. Most guys will use the stock Lexus automatic and use the inchworm output shaft adapter so you can bolt on your transfercase.
Hey! Small world, seen tons of your videos! Yep, truck has a 3” body lift. You can get away with a smaller 2” and be fine. Below that you gotta get creative for clearance for the oil pan. No issues with clearance under the hood. If I were to do it again I’d make my own engine mounts, drop it down another 1/2” and back another inch. Oil pan is stock ls400 front sump. Only required removal of the oem steering stabilizer and cutting the mounting ear off the relay rod. I fitted an aftermarket unit that uses u clamps to the relay rod.
I can not thank you enough for making this video. You have no idea how much this has helped me with my 1uz swap in my blue extra cab 94'. I must have watched this video 100 times. Thank you, Sir!!
My 1999 lx 470 has this as well and the air box was flooded with power steering fluid when it failed. I disassembled the valve and predictably the O-rings were shot. Planning on trying this delete for a while and if it causes trouble, I might just replace the valve with a new one. I also just used a short M14x1.5 oil drain plug with a washer. I capped the intake ports for the tubing as well with regular rubber caps. Simple and easy.
Wiring is fairly straight forward. If you have access to the Toyota schematics you pretty much just Match up the wiring. Things like constant power, switched power, ignition/injector power, starter signal. You will need to splice in connections for oil pressure, water temp sensor. The 1uz uses a dual speed fuel pump, the 3vze used the air flow meter to give ground signal to the circuit opening relay to allow the fuel pump to run. So I used a spare output from the 1uz ecu to trigger the circuit opening relay. You will also need to separate the 4wd front differential wiring from the old engine harness if you’re working on a 4wd truck. Toyota is pretty consistent when it comes to wiring. The lion share of the wiring is from the engine to the ecu which you don’t need to mess with. Remove as much old wiring for the transmission and other items like egr if you don’t plan on using them.
Going to do my own swap soon. Donor 90 ls400 car parked next to the 89 truck now. Thanks for the inspiration! I am a painter and I can see that you put some love into sanding and coating that truck. Can you share any details on sourcing the nice window and windshield seals? My cab leaks and I am going to take it down to metal... Might as well use new seals!
You got a sub and a like. I’ve been fighting this belt for an hour. Turning the left cam counter clockwise slightly and turning the crank clockwise trying to get any slack I could. Had no luck. Great tip.
I think rusting is subjective and not wheel specific, keep in mind that not everyone will experience the same weather conditions hence will never see any rusting. would be interesting to see what the bottom of the truck looks like.
That’s not really a trick. That’s how it’s done. Only clicked on the video, because I have two 5vzfe trucks in for belt service, snd both have the rear tensioner bolt head stripped.
I have a 93 LS400 1UZ as well and do you know where the Igniters and Injector/Sensor power wires are located in the harness? Are they in the same plug as the Starter signal wire?
Should be located in plug iL1, wire is black with orange tracer, feeds the injector circuit. If I remember correctly it also feeds the ignition coils. Been many years since I did the wiring on this swap. Same plug as starter trigger wire.
@@cakebop the manual shows it as black/orange but it may be more red than orange. It should provide power to both ignition coils and all 8 injectors. You could use a multi meter to check the wire in question, using one probe at the ecu end and one probe out at each injector and coil, using the ohm/continuity function on the multi meter.
@@cakebop the black/red should fed from 15amp supply. This supplies various sensors with their 12v power such as o2 sensors, idle up VSV, egr system etc.
Typically when this valve fails, it pulls power steering fluid into the intake manifold which is then burned. It causes smoke from the exhaust as well as causing the power steering system to go low on fluid. Deleting the valve will just eliminate all these issues for cheap. At the sacrifice of the slight increase of idle rpm while turning the steering wheel that the valve provides. Or replace the valve with an oem quality replacement.
They actually looks pretty cool with the stainless steel ones. I love em. I ordered anza and I will buy the same nuts and washer. Thanks for this video man. 👌🏼👍🏼🙌🏼👉🏼
I couldn’t tell you exactly without my notes handy, but for the most part Toyota is very consistent with how they lay out their electrical circuits. I used a copy of the Toyota pickup electrical manual and a copy of the ls400 electrical manual. Then matched up the power feeds. Something like 8-9 wires needed to be wired, stuff like ecu power, ignition power, injector power etc. ...been around 5 years since I wired it. Note, do a little research on the nsw circuit, people get this wrong and it can cause all sorts of issues. There’s a fella named Kelvin on here with the channel name of “CartuneNZ” He has a ton of videos he has put out in the recent years regarding 1uz wiring. Check him out!
i bought a new control valve that was $130 from autozone and then i put the new one in and it didnt even thread in all the way, made it leak way more, I think now im just going todo the delete.
Cheap quality fasteners. Unfortunately all these companies cut corners and get crap quality stainless products. Rule of thumb is if a magnet sticks to it then it’s cheap stainless. Fuel should be ashamed of themselves but as per usual they would not give a crap.
I love the build! I actually found your post on Reddit earlier while doing research on 1uz swapped pickups, now I’ve found your RU-vid channel 😂 I recognize the giant exposed radiator
