I saw some footage of that day and that stood out as the best . Glad someone else caught that also . Cool stuff going on there - nature produced a huge beautiful wave and a guy with mad skills made art . On that day Lucas ... you the man .
I would do that. Back in the day when I was in good shape no problem. New loved surfing the bigger the better such an adrenaline rush. Nothing like it. Catch a wave and you’re sitting on top of the world. I miss it so much
I hear from inside knowledge that he's planning to do the same trick but he'll be carrying a camera crew on his back, i know it sounds far-fetched but if anyone can, he can
