I know it's an oldie Marc but thanks, just finished framing in my rack in our new home in my base,net woodshop to be. I have to get some casters and couple of hinges but that plywood rack should be in this weekend. Awesome video as usual, Chris
Nice design. I would recommend one additional castor on same end as hinges. Over time the gate hinge screws may shear from the weight. Let the castor handle the weight while the hinges allow the in/out sweeping movement.
Impact driver is worth it's weight in gold? Really, are they THAT good? Worth well over 20K (if it's only 4 or 5 lbs) Just kidding. Just wanted to let you know that we are actually listening to you. I do like talkies much better than silent videos that some guys make.
I built this same rack many years ago and it has served me well. I would recommend one additional caster in the middle of the rack. Mine has started to sag but only slightly.
I have built a number of these racks over the years and I have one suggestion. cover the horizontal supports with some plywood or OSB to make them into shelves. I notice that you have some shorter boards that cover 2 supports if you accidentally move them the ends will come off the support and onto the floor or yourself. (ask how I know). It also allows you to store a number of short pieces. It looks great
Finished my cart a few days ago and followed your design. Absolutely love it. came out great and ALL my scraps are together and orginized. I used steel casters and the are just fine no issues what so ever. . My floor is pretty lever so no issue of the cart rolling out on its own. But as Mark stated in His video a simple latch will stop any free roll with ease. Thanks again Mr. Mark for your creativaty.
@TsmnnDvl5 While our humidity is low, the plywood that gets shipped here has a moisture content that's quite high. So we tend to see even more issues with plywood than most areas. In the idea world, yes, we would store sheetgoods flat. But even with my generous amount of space, devoting a 4' x 8' space for plywood storage just isn't practical. So vertical storage is the only option. The best defense against warping is buying good quality. And so far I haven't been disappointed.
@cultech To be honest, I am not sure. I have never really worked with metal studs before so I don't know what you need to do to make sure you have full structural integrity. Maybe someone with general construction experience will chime in.
One critique I have is about the casters. Since you have a fixed pivot point on the side opposite the casters you would be better off with straight casters attached tangentially to the hinges swing. What happens with swivel casters is when they change direction they have throw which causes undo strain on the casters and the parts, they don't freely rotate on axis. Otherwise I like it a lot.
@BMXNyQuisT Thanks man. I do have my piece of the pie right here on the internet. :) Honestly, TV is a tough place and I bet a watered down version of my stuff on TV would probably put you to sleep too. :)
@Mopardude Well, I can't say for sure it gives me dead center since I can't actually see the stud. But I can tell you that it dependably gives me the start, stop, and center points. The display has a meter that slowly builds until it reaches center. That's when the light goes on, then the meter begins to drop down again as you move off the stud. And after using it a few hundred times I have yet to miss a stud. So as far as I'm concerned, this little unit is pretty darn accurate.
@deleetmeeh I know mine definitely gives you a the stud center, as well as the start and stop points. Its a standard unit from Home Depot and nothing special. From my experience with it, its pretty darn accurate.
@therealandycook I am actually considering adding one of those spring loaded gate casters. Should help take off a few pounds and give a little extra support.
9:10 I know this is super-picky but vertical is plumb, not level (level is horizontal). Yeah usually this doesn't matter but if you have a few guys doing various things you have to have the terminology straight.
You definitely want fixed wheels here, not pivoting casters, since the same arc is being traversed by the cart every time. Also, you can get 'em for WAY cheaper at Harbor Freight (cheaper still if you scavenge a set off one of their cheap furniture-moving carts).
:) it's funny watching a cabinet maker doing rough carpentry... there's a few pointers I could give you to make things more efficient (don't rely on your studs to be plum so don't use a level, use your stud finder at the top and bottom then snap a chalk like to mark one edge, also never rely on your tape to find studs. always a stud finder to find the edges; make a mark as soon as you hear the beep, then you can go 3/4'' in for center). cheers
Attaching the uprights from the top down and leveling from there means the screws in the top that have the most work to do will have the best bite in case the studs aren't truel. If your upright runs off the stud at the bottom, it's not quite as critical as it would be if it ran off at the top.
Can you please elaborate on what you're saying here? You're talking about the vertical attachments to the wall, correct? You're saying it's best to put in the top screws first?
@TheWoodWhisperer It may seem like yours is giving you the center but its really not. Most finders have a small lag time before the light goes off coupled with the fact your sliding it across the wall at about mach 5. That is why your supposed slide it slowly than back up after the light goes off to find the edge. I personally have never seen a finder that finds the center. If they did how would they ever discriminate if you came to a spot in the wall where several studs are stacked up?
I overloaded my Boar rack, and the screws pulled out from the wall dumping the lot on the ground. Unfortunately with everything going on this summer, I've had to leave it for several weeks. I did go in and pullout the boards I didn't want to warp or twist. Looking for a solution, this video came up, and it's great. However; I had to do some modifications to fit my application. Currently on the cinderblock wall I have 3 24" 2X4" laying flat which I secure to the wall with construction glue and Tapcon bolts. To make up the difference from 24" to 54" I am marrying another 30" 2X4" with a 54" 2X4". These will be lagged to the wall with a steel drop in and lag bolts for that purpose. With the 2 2X4" 54" long doubled against the wall, I'll have a good amount of surface to put the shelf supports up. I will turn the 2X4" flat between them giving the shelf support the ability to slide past the 2 2X4" anchored to the wall.
Cool project, it would be nice if you make a video in about 6 months of any problems or suggest improvements to your rack or shop setup over time if you find something was overlooked.
Great Project! But two Points. 1 Instead of the horizontal piece, why not just run the verticals straight to the floor? 2 Casters that big should always be trough bolted. But you can always do that when they fall off. lol
If you get a chance can you build one of those folding tv trays, that would be great if you do because I cant seem to find any D.I.Y videos for it. Im more of a visual learner as of watching a project be done step by step rather then have to read the step by step instructions. Thank you. XD
Marc, you could place a single locking swivel caster and a standard swivel caster to "lock" into place without extra hardware to do so as you mentioned. I do have one question though, I was always taught for sheet goods, to never stand them either their ends or sides/edges due to warping, that one should always lay them flat? Have you encountered such things as warping to your sheet goods by standing them up like that? AZ has a much lower humidity range than most states, here, it's very high.
@TheWoodWhisperer yes and change your name too. like metal speaker or something. keep the good work iam really learning with you. show how to veneer large pieces. i dont know if veneer its the right word
Fantastic, Marc! Thanks for taking the time to document this in video format. I suppose you could bolts in place of the screws that attach the brackets to the studs? That might create a 'modular' system and may even make it a little easier to fit the brackets (pre-drilling the studs before fixing them to the wall studs). Look forward to seeing the rest of your new-old workshop progress.
AMIGO, HOLA BUENAS TARDES EN EL GRUPO DE VIDEOS DE LA CAMA ME GUSTARIA SABER KMADERA USAS Y MUCHOTE AGRADECERIA RESPONDAS A MI CORREO vllgs@hotmail.com ME GUSTAN TUS VIDEOS DE AHI LA INQUIETUD DE SABER QUE MADERA USAS
Most stud finders actually work by finding each edge separately. Start by moving the stud finder one direction and when it lights up stop and mark a line. Then go to the opposite side of your line about 3 to 4 inches away and work towards your line to find the exact edge by stopping when it lights up again. You can now determine the exact middle. If your having trouble with your stud finder use a stud finding magnet set to locate the screws. These work well. Never trust anything to be on center.
Once I picked up a magnetic stud finder I've never used the traditional stud finder again. I only payed $3 for it too. The only time i'd use one is on lathe where the plaster is too thick for the magnets but so far I haven't had too.
@hoold90 The Spruce ply from B and Q would be fine. Its a bit rough and will need a good sand, but at half the price of the birch ply, thats not a big issue. The Birch ply is great for making furniture for around the house though :)
To reduce the stress on the rightmost vertical member why not put casters at the right of the cart as well so that the weight of the sheet goods is supported mainly by casters?
I looked and didn't want to repeat a suggestion...Lord knows, there's enough of them! One idea to keep the sheet goods cart against the wall is to use a locking caster on the outside wheel. Push it back, lock the wheel. Also helps to lock the cart while pushing in sheet goods...to keep it immobile.
As always just what I needed to see. But what type of drill do you have? I do see that it is a Dewalt but I hear a racheting sound and think it is some kind of hammer drill. Is it just a normal drill?
I know this is a rather old video, but at 8:00, can you not just drill the pilot hole the same diameter as the shaft, not the threads, then drill the screw in to tap the threads, then back it back out before driving it into the studs? That's what I've always done, but I'm only 23 have had more firewood than furniture since I started woodworking 2 years ago lol. I have noticed that when I drive a screw in to join two pieces of wood together, they don't pull tight until I back the screw out and drive it back in. But once I do that, it's a tight connection. Just want to make sure I'm doing it the right way. That's what she said. Thanks!
studs are the vertical supports inside the walls that hold up the weight of the roof. they're usually 2x4 or 2x6 inches by however tall your walls are. Its awesome to see someone your age with an interest in this stuff. if you want to know more about woodworking check out steve ramsey, doucette and wolf, this old house and the new yankee workshop. There's lots of others but beware, some people aren't really qualified to be giving advice on building and youtube doesn't discriminate.
The locking casters is a good idea, but for the people that don't have the money to buy a lot of items like that they could get a screen door latch and use it. Thanks for the video Marc. It is very useful. I am going to build me a rack. I have wood in several cardboard boxes. I like that wood rack though. Excellent instructional video.
Very Cool video Marc, Here I thought I was the only one who really knew how to calibrate a Stud-sensor. 8-) I have needed a rack like this for a few years but wasn't just sure how to construct it. Well you have just gave me the knowlege to build one, thank you allot! always enjoy your videos, keep them comming. 5*****
very nice... my consern tho is when you store plywood in vertical postition isint there more risk on getting the potato chip sindrome to it than if you store itlying down?
You could put another set of casters close to the hinge end to help take the load off the hinges, and it should swing just as well. By the way, what type of work do you do fulltime?
I just finished building my lumber rack based on yours. I found that there was too much play side to side for the vertical supports. Probably my fault. However, I added horizontal 2x4s every other vertical 2x4 to prevent the racking. Now it is a rigid beast and does not move.
I'm going to get the materials tomorrow morning to build this. Of course I will need to modify the rack part to fit my 8' ceiling, and will use 16" centers along with ply shelf material, but it is not much of a deviation from your great design. Thanks, and I just subbed, too.
Hey Marc, great video. I used your ideas to build storage shelves in my garage and it worked perfectly. I didn't need mine to be quite so robust so I scaled it down a little, but I can easily hang on it with no flex. Thanks a bunch. Oh, what happened to the funny out takes you used to have at the end? I liked those.
Agreed, I was thinking more or less the same. I'd put a pair of casters towards the middle and a single caster at the end (near the hinge), front side. My 2 cents.
I thought the best way to store plywood is flat? Do you have any issues with standing sheets upright? Do you add filler blocks on the sheet stock to minimize curling/warping? Thanks in advance for your reply!
Can't help to notice that the pull out shelf probably should have another wheel located underneath where hinges are it just seems like that would be unstable
Waiting to see the video where you sand and finish the lumber rack. Prolly take you about a while. haha. Awesome videos!! I'm actually getting inspired to begin some wood working because of your educational videos.
So, studs in my garage are exposed and I can directly attached racks to them. Do you think I still need to attach the vertical supports to studs and then add the racks to the attached vertical supports?
Terrific for the garage. I've got a lot of plywood, 2x4's on hand for this project. It'll clean up my garage and hopefully I can move around in there again. I keep picking up free lumber here and there and it's just getting out of control. I'll save a section of the cart for scraps for my wood burner.
