Luthier Quick Tip 3: How to Decide On A Guitar Finish 

My favorite finish is amber Shellac from a spray can. Bullseye! After 2 years of playing a blues style guitar looks like it been played for 30 years. Rapid relic- ing without out phoney damage. Real play wear.

Always learn from your videos. On my cigar box guitar necks I only use the Watco Danish Oil natural finish. Down the road, you can always remedy any dings, scratches, or wear with a quick Danish Oil wipe-down.

Opened up my own little guitar workshop a few months ago, these videos have been very informative, fun and helpful. There's so much to guitar making and customs, I love brushing up on some of the details, general knowledge and techniques. Thank you Highline.

I have been clearing guitars for over 30 years. I use all different types of clears my favorite is polyester sealer clear gives it a amazing sounds and lasted longer. Thanks for the video

Timely vid, thanks! I just completed a refinish on an old Peavey Raptor using Duplicolor acrylic lacquer, and I'm not thrilled with the clear. It's level and glossy, but still fairly soft after several weeks. I worked really hard to apply it correctly, so I'm writing it off as unusable under my conditions and moving on to something else. My son's SG-style kit is in process, and I definitely want a better topcoat when it reaches that stage. I'm pretty much narrowed down to either Crystalac or a 2K urethane product. I've used a rattle-can variant with some success (learned a few things for sure), and now I think I might be able to do a nice spray finish with my HVLP. I've got to think that either would certainly would be more durable than this acrylic lacquer, with the additional bonus of getting to level and polish much sooner.

Another awesome video! I'm going to now go buy a house with a big workshop, invest in $25,000 in woodworking tools, and build a dozen guitars so I can try out all the finishing products you just mentioned! I'm honestly "that" intrigued to experiment with these finishes now - a tribute to your always-interesting videos! Keep 'em coming!! Tx! 😎👍

Looking forward to my first build with Crystalac. Planning to use a Preval system to apply it.

About a year ago l started building a Baglama/Saz from scratch( it's a traditional instrument ) in my spare times. I have been searching right finishing products here where l live. Back at home th finishing they're using l can find it here. So, after so many videos l watched here on RU-vid, your video was a JACKPOT with the info l been searching for. I just ordered it online & now waiting for it to be delivered. I can't wait to try the finishing product. I'm really appreciated and thanking you. Keep up the good work.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. FYI, if there is a Walmart near you, they carry Tru Oil. Also, if you leave the foil on the opening, use two small holes to dispense the product, then store upside down I have extended the shelf life well over a year. One other snippet, when applying the last coat or two a few drops of mineral spirits will thin the product down and produce a surprisingly deep shine. And if you just don't like Tru Oil, well, never mind! Thanks again for sharing.

Thanks for this! A great review. I have started using “I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer” and made a ukulele sized tanning booth for curing. Very happy with it and the results! My ukulele shop is in the basement beneath my home so the more potent vapors of the harder Solarez product takes it off the table.

All area is freaking amazing!

Hey man, your tutorials are like super good and i havent got the whole picture of setting up a guitar yet. Could you maybe make a video on perfectly setting up your guitar?

Thank you for the information. WOuld have enjoyed examples.

Thanks for the great info. I definitely struggle the most with finishing. I might give the CrystaLac a try fro my next build. I've used wipe-on poly a couple of times. It works pretty well but scratches fairly easily.

As always....a nice and informative vid. It nice to see you take the time to explain things in a relaxed way and with good building-up of information. Thanx and keep it going. Ronald

Thank you sir for the heads up about finish choices for an axe that I am building!

Fantastic and informative video! You answered questions I didn’t know I had! Thank you!

i really like an oil finish, especially on the neck. on the body, for a smooth shine i apply a wipe on poly

Just a tip: brite tone will not stick on solvent or oil based based paint schemes while level sanding. Chris is right you need to stay solvent with solvent and water base with water base products. Testing is essential.

Awesome video!!!! Thank you Chris!

Excellent channel. Thank you so much for your great information.

great stuff thank you

I build high acoustics and electrics. Nitrocellulose lacquer is great for tone if build it thin about .004" thick plus it looks great. Downside it is time consuming.

After about four decades in guitars, I STILL prefer nitro (even with all of the inconveniences) for its look AND repairability. I specifically prefer Mohawk, because it cures fairly quickly, AND rock-hard.

You know I already subscribed.. Still scared to take the leap on a certain color and start the process! LOL

This was super useful, thanks!

Great info. Thanks.

Very informative!

Thanks for all the tips over the years. I think you’re the most helpful luthier channel on there. Have you ever tried Royal-Lac for a shellac like natural finish with polyester strength? I’m wondering how you feel about that stuff. Was planning on using that for my first build shortly to get a garnet shellac look that’s more durable than a French polish. Thanks again for all the videos!

Timely. I've been working with Solarez and BriteTone over the past week or two. I have to say, the "I can't believe it's not lacquer" product is pretty fantastic. The 3 minute cure times are no joke and sands/buffs like a champ. Spraying it on requires following the directions on the bottle though, to achieve good coverage and leveling. I can see why you have used it as a sanding sealer in the past, and I think I will probably do the same. The BriteTone product (gloss) is probably the clearest, best self-leveling clear-coat product I have ever used. Sprays on great, and clean up is just water. I haven't gotten to sanding/buffing it yet, so I don't know how it performs there. The regular Solarez dual-cure is just awful. It smells terrible, doesn't spray well at all, only self-levels if you leave it for an hour or more before curing (which makes the quick cure no longer advantageous), and doesn't sand well at all. In my experience it remained tacky even after long sun exposure, and when sanding it quickly builds up on the sandpaper. From what I can see it doesn't ever really cure all that dry or hard. And that smell is like inhaling the fumes from burning plastic. I don't if I got a bad batch or what, but I don't think I'll be going back to this one. Thanks for the information! It was your videos that turned me onto these products, and I think I have a couple of real winners here. 👍

IMO any type of oil on an acoustic guitar with a spruce or cedar top will alter the sound in a negative way. It will absolutely kill the sustain of the instrument. I should know, I put Watco Danish oil on my hand made guitar and I was extremely disappointed in the sound quality. Don't do it! I played my guitar with no finish on it for a couple of days. It sounded nice, then I applied the oil finish and what a drastic result. Really sorry I did. You can't get rid of the oil once it's on. It's soaked in forever. Maybe on an electric guitar it won't effect the sound that much. On an acoustic guitar the sound comes mainly from the top. It moves and vibrates and the oil really dampens the sound.

Since my cherry first Tacoma has peeled all around the sides and I haven't found anyone to take it on, I'm considering trying to do it myself. I have refinished some furniture, not much but ...this is a really scary project!

I was recommended automotive clear. I've done a few , seems pretty good. Using Southern Polyurethanes Euro clear, Only downside is porous wood. I've had to respray 4 times on a couple of them.

What is the best finish for achieving the best tone? That is my main objective. I just bought a Martin that does not have a finished top and the tone is amazing! I'd like to finish it, but want to maintain or enhance the already great tone. Thanks for your experienced insight!

I could be mistaken, but I don't think you answered the question of which finish you prefer over a stained wood body. Could you shed some light on that question for me? Thanks so much.

Not familiar with Z-Poxy. You say it has "a slight amber tint to it" and I have to ask, amber in an "antique" lacquer kind of way by any chance? That could be really appropriate for a very subtle relic outcome I have been trying to figure out for sometime. Note: I'm not talking about the usual, "the tour bus driver ran it over, multiple times" type relic jobs that are all the rage it seems, but rather a certain "patina" (if we can we call it that) in some older lacquered instruments that I would like to be able to solve for. I think I can handle the "crackle", but nailing that color (discolor) with a gloss finish is the prize.

I noticed you’re based out of Highlands Ranch. I live in Parker and am new to luthiery. Getting a flawless finish on anything I’ve ever built has been the bane of my existence. Do you offer any in person instruction on guitar finishing?

@highline guitars , great video , sir. I have a question. I want to strip my Gretsch and my P-Bass down to just the bare wood. I don't care about "gloss" "shine" or aesthetic appeal, I just want to seal/coat the body to protect it, that's all. What product do you recommend for this? And any info about application , curing etc would be greatly appreciated! Subscribed to your channel! Thank you!

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Really good video! Answered my questions and got to the point. Thanks! What's the best chemical strip for getting the factory finish off of a cheap Epiphone PR-150?

thank you

Brite tone is good stuff. I just started using it, thanks to you, and love it. Amazing results! Thank you You didn’t mention the strength level of Z poxy. How durable is it?

So what is your "go to" finish for acoustic guitars

Thank you!

Thanks for the video. So what about shellac?

Really helpful video, Chris, thanks. I use Nitro because I relic my guitars, but I'm curious to try the Crystalac especially for non relic jobs. I take it you can paint it over acrylics and the like?

Dig the shirt!

What is the best finish for a guitar neck? A smooth satin feel for a fast neck ?

Yeah, Watco Danish Oil is great to work with! I got a free table from someone, took off the damaged veneer and applied some Danish Oil to it. I have a novice question regarding coating guitars. I was going to clear coat the headstock of my acoustic guitar with Rust-oleum 2X Semi-Gloss Clear, but I never. It comes in a spray can. Can you use that type of product for a gloss on a guitar?

invaluable information. thank you so much for explaining your rational behind these decisions. it makes my choice obvious! would I improve the finish by spraying Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer or is that unnecessary?

@Highline Guitars I’m a hobbiest on my fourth guitar project. My current project is the first one where I am doing a clear-coat over paint. I have never level sanded or buffed a guitar. On this project I don’t need to be bullet-proof. Based on the video, I would like to try the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer. Here’s my question: On my current project, I have been doing image transfers using acrylic medium, and painting on top of that with acrylic paint. The guitar is coming out really cool, but due to the transfers and the acrylic paint, there quite a few places where the surface is not smooth. Ultimately, I would like to have a clear-coat that is thick enough to that I can get a smooth outer surface with but without sand through the clear-coat when I am level sanding. Would I need to worry about that with the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer product? Can you do multiple coats of the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer? If so do you need to level sand and buff between coats? Any help is very much appreciated…

I wish i could talk to you about a project i have and discuss a clear for it

Subscribed. I have a maple neck and fretboard ordered with matte finish. I'd like to add some stripes with a propane torch. Do I need to remove the matte finish first? Thx!

great video chris,wondered if you could advise me, can spray cellulose over the z epoxy? many thanks in advance, paul uk

Awesome tips. I've been working on a guitar for a friend. Doing a distressed brown look, but he doesn't want any gloss. he wants a more matte or satin finish. I like the Solarez products. What would you recommend that would have the strength of the polyester but with no gloss?

I hate gloss finishes. I'm leaning towards the boiled linseed oil. But if I want a bit of tint, would you recommend stain first and then apply the boiled linseed oil over top, or mix some sort of transparent pigment into the linseed oil?

This is helpful. Do you still use Crystalac? If not, what type of gloss top coat are you using now?

Have you ever worked with melamine lacquer? I know it's sometimes used in wood turning (lathe), but I have seen it used on a guitar in one video.

I'm thinking of stripping the top polyurethane coat on my classical Cordoba c4 ce and using an oil based finish on it. Is it a bad idea to just do the top and leave the back and sides poly? I have a hunch that it may cause cracking, especially in a humid environment.

Lacquer is the only way

Thanks for sharing this precious know how!!! Do you think I could use a nitro finish on a sitka acoustic top that is sunburst stained with SM color tone without making a mess?? Thanks again....

"The Star Spangled Banner"! 🙂

Qucik question for you, hopefully you see it and can respond. Im going to use the watco danish oil on an acoustic guitar. After i apply the finish, do i need anything else ontop of it for example a clear coat, poly, or lacquer?

I’ve got a roasted swamp ash strat body. I love the roasted color and existing wood grain. What would you recommend for a protective finish?

Chris, Do you use Solarez ICBINL on necks? Any problems with durability?

If I wanted to paint my guitar body with acrylic (water-based) paint, is there a finish/topcoat I could apply that would take less than the standard 30 days to cure? I don’t need a mirror or high-gloss sheen, satin is fine. My only real stipulation is that oil-based finishes would screw the paint job up and I’d rather not have to sand the entire thing down and start again.

Thanks for a wonderfully informative video. Can Solarex I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer be applied over a sanded smooth Tru Oil finish? Appreciate the help.

I have an old but good Ventura acoustic, and want to remove the original stain/sealer; and stain it a lighter color. Any advice on which stain to use; and also, will I achieve a richer intonation with a particular satin. Thanks!

+Highline Guitars do you have any experience with minwax water-based wipe on poly? Do you recommend it? Looking for something water based and durable

I have a question. I have a Epiphone Les Paul that I just got. It has a factory (dull) satin finish on the body. I am putting on transparent decals on it. To keep the stickers permanently on the guitar and to give the guitar a kind of shiny finish on top of the stickers, what would I use on it? How long til the guitar body is fully dry and able to out the hardware back in it? Thank you.

Hey Chris, Did you by chance try to coat a neck with Brite Tone?

I have removed the original polyurethane finish off the face of my spruce top acoustic guitar. I'm wanting to give it an antique look (without the distressed marks, etc.) What sort of finishing process is ideal for that?

Just got an ES style kit. Whilst waiting for delivery I have watched umpteen videos (mostly yours) and think Crystalac is what I will be using. I have questions but 2 are on my mind. 1. Is it OK to use an orbital sander on a guitar which does not have a flat front? 2. How do I deal with the bindings? Should I use narrow vinyl masking tape?

If you want a stained wood natural finish do you still need to clear coat it for a final finish?

Hey Chris, thanks as always for this great info. Have you ever used z-poxy as a finish over nitro lacquer? I'm working on a mahogany body with a gold top (sprayed nitro over z-filled poplar). I'm wondering if, after the nitro has fully gassed off, I could just z-poxy over the whole darn thing.

I wonder if anyone has any tips on how to do this. I want to paint a precision bass body with a nitrocellulose sand color. The pickguard will be orange and I want what's underneath the nitrous cellulose to crack revealing an orange substrate below the nitrocellulose. I was thinking of mixing some alcohol dye with a grain filler first and then maybe sponging on some type of acrylic orange color over that. Don't know if I need to put a white vinyl sealer over that or go directly to nitrous cellulose, because again I'm looking for the orange to show through the distressed cracks through the nitrocellulose

Learned a lot from your videos. I built a guitar from a soft okoume. Thinking of Solarez Polyester for max hardness. Will it lift the black analine dye and do I need filler or sealer underneath. The body doesn't have a lot of grain. Also would soaking the body with West exopy then use the less volatile Solarez be just as good?

Great video! I tried making my own oil finish with boiled linseed oil, min spirits, and polyurethane like you suggested. It looks great however, after a few coats I think I want something that's more glossy. Can I adjust the ratio of the mix to have more polyurethane to achieve this? Or should I just wait for it all to cure and then apply something like the Crystalac Brite Tone? Thanks!

How many coats of zpoxy do you recommend? I have a mahogany body that is finely sanded from a stewmac kit and I’ve never done a guitar before. Plenty of experience staining pine doors and moulding in my house couple decades ago followed up with water base satin polyurethane, but that’s it. Still a novice. Still on the fence….

Can I use teak oil on the neck or body of my guitar? Iget mixed information about this

Thanks!! One question, wich is the best if I would like to have a light blue (aniline dye) maple top with high gloss clear coat? The most easy to work (faster to cure)?

I’m looking to apply a real leaf to the top of my poly-finished turquoise Les Paul. Any quick ides? Several coats of brush-on poly? Love your videos! ✌️❤️

Have you used an automotive style clear coat product, with separate hardener, like Omni? Thoughts on something like that, compared to Crystalac and Solarez?

Great video. Very informative. I have a question: is Watco Danish Oil compatible with dyes or stains? I mean, can it be applied over a stained body or top (like a hand rubbed burst)?

Could I use Crystalac matted finish on Zpoxy or have you found Zpoxy to be sufficient for the top coat? How do you use Zpoxy on maple? Would I just apply multiple coats of Zpoxy to build a finish? Does Zpoxy need sanding in between coats? Thank you.

I have question sir. My gibson flying v has a nitro finish that is like an ivory white. Is it possible to prep the nitro finish already on the guitar and use it as a base coat the spray my paint over that or should completly strip my guitar down to the wood? Also the are 2 dings in the paint job so what would I use to fill if I didn't have to strip down to bare wood?

I have a first act guitar which feels like a plain wood finish would putting polyurethane on it change the sound or hurt the guitar in any way it is a first act Adam Levin al363

Great videos. Very informative. Wondering if you could recommend a Solarez product for clear coating over a metal flake finish which is rough to the touch. Thanks

I am looking for a clear coat gloss product that will not alter the color of TransTint Aqua Dye. I tested Varathane Polyurethane and it yellowed the blue and turned it green. Is there a clear that is truly clear? Thanks.

Have been trying out "I can't believe it's not lacquer " on rosewood. I use as a sealer and a cover finish. My rosewood finish is not curing as expected. Do you have any pointers for using this product on rosewood?

Hey I wanted to know what kind of coat would be best to use on my bass guitar that I have signed with sharpie

Hi, what finish to be applief on back of the neck to enhace smoothness to my palm?

Hey @highlineguitars I just found your channel! I'm a DIY'er who's looking to sjarpen luthier skills. Current project is an '84 MIJ BC Rich guitar that was in rough shape and had been spray painted over the original finish. I've sanded back to the original creme finish but will be keeping some of the relicing and putting a transparent window sticker over a more unsightly area to add style and make it look more metal. I want a gloss finish that will protect the reliced area but not make the outline of the sticker obvious. Ideally, I'd also like the neck to feel smooth and not sticky. Any help/recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Tkx again from Canada.

Ever try waterlox? I love it for my other woodworking but never used on guitars

I have a question. I have a vintage semi hollow guitar with a nitro finish, and the finish is chipping of. I thought about air brush it with a thin coat of lacquer, but I'm worried about it damage the sound of the guitar. Will it effect the tone?

👏👍👍

Thanks Chris! Have you done a video on what you use to spray Crystalac?

G'day, love the video. But I was just wondering do you need to coat of paint or varnish on electric guitar/bass at all? Can you get away with just bare wood and apply may be a wax finish to it once in awhile.

Sir I have a Question.. Please answer.. It will be very helpful.. I have a Cort (Af510m-op) Open Pore Guitar all mahogany body Solid wood Guitar. What should I use to maintain and polish the guitar...? Kindly help...

Hello, Can one use e-poxy over watco to get the gloss with the richness of the watco color?