Thanks for sharing this. I'm a car enthusiast. Not generally into aviation. Took a picture of an American Champion plane a long time ago. Looked up the tail num and flight aware pointed me to this engine. Immediately wanted to see how it was assembled. This answered those questions. :)
This is mesmerizing to watch, and I really appreciate your effort to capture different angles. You have great lighting and editing. You are very brave. I am the nervous guy that won’t take apart anything for fear I won’t get it back together again. My Lycoming 0360 has an oil leak, so I’m watching this. to help me understand the different parts of the engine.
I'm glad my video could be of help and that you feel you gained from it. To me the oil leak is very serious and I'd suggest you stay put until it's dealt with. Unfortunately, it's probably a tear down at high cost. Lately, one person had a camshaft that was the culprit as it didn't fit the bearing the way the old one did, very costly. You could have a leak in the gasket that may still require a tear down. Hopefully, it's the rear seal. That's fairly easy, but you'll have to see. I'm glad you liked the video and the more you know the better off you are. Someone who simply "owns" is more of a victim from my standpoint. Check around on work first. See if you can develop several estimates first. Thanks for your interest in this video.
Each piston should be at TDC of the compression stroke before removing rocker arms. Then when removing the cylinder you have more room to get the piston pin out.
Yes, I tried that, but the clearance was small. As I said in the video, I had a "goal" and achieved that in part. This was my first disassembly. Thanks for being interactive today and for watching.
Before do anything you should find a correct clean room and place the engine in good position engine stand, bench or bank for the disassembly?? . then began to remove the components and place all the parts in order and tag it and not mix the parts . cylinder # #2 #3 #4 if you are an FAA CERTIFIED A&P
Thanks. Cyls 1,2,3 and 4 were not mixed. Not FAA certified. Not required. No stand was available. First time DIY on an engine that was supposed to be worth little. Turns out to be worth a lot. Crankshaft sent out came back M03, worth approximately $8.5k now. Not a bad day for something that was supposed to be junk. Each cyl worth $2k. Not a bad day for junk. Case when tested worth $6k. Not a bad day for junk. Engine when reassembled by FAA certified shop worth $50k. Not a bad day for DIY when all was supposed to be lost. Point of exercise is DON'T ALLOW SOMEONE TO TELL YOU YOUR ENGINE IS WORTHLESS OR THE PARTS IN IT ARE NO GOOD. Not a bad day for DIY. Some people want a quick fortune off your so-called core. Junk is the highest paying business in the world. There's no such thing as junk in aviation. Thank you.
Life would be easier if you had the service manual for the engine. You would see all the right ways to disassemble the engine. You've done it incorrectly more than once.
I have the service manual. So far, so good despite being an amateur. I didn't get any A&P. However, I'm still on course and nothing was damaged so far. I'm willing to try anything. You?
I was told that the crank was no good based on their "test" and it would have to be replaced. You missed that point. The SB533 wasn't presented to me at all. Great shop support, uh? I took the engine with me and ran. Everything in it is checking out. What they had in mind was to take the plane away from me for peanuts. It's DIY for a good reason so minimalists won't get swindled. A lot of people seem to run around with various parts of information that never comes together very well here. What I do know about SB533 seems to indicate plenty of rejections too. You should check into that before offering it as a wise old observation. Please do so for your own sake. If a dial out is greater than .005 I guarantee the crankshaft is a reject no matter what labels get put on it. They wanted me to accept that without having done anything. The more you actually know from first hand experience the better. I wish you well in getting serviced along correct mechanical guide lines and that you always experience ethical shop conduct from any FBO too. Another shop owner told me that regardless of any other guideline he always tore down engines completely after any prop strike. Another rule of thumb is whether the engine continued to run after the strike. That's a lot of opinions and conditions right there.
@@michaelbradford2816 no offense but I don’t really follow half of what you tried to say. I do know, that as an A/P mechanic, some of the information out there can be hard to worthless through and digest. SB533 is pretty straight forward though, if the prop had any damage, whether prop strike running or not, or blade separation or sudden stoppage, Lycoming says to tear down and inspect, in a very specific manner. I’m going through it now with my IO-390 that lost blade shortly after takeoff. Crank dials .001, but that’s irrelevant as it mentions runout nowhere in the service bulletin, and for good reason. They don’t want people using that as a metric towards whether or not to tear down, as it doesn’t indication the condition of the engine internally.
And yet, dialing is a "standard" by which all core engines are sold or considered for rebuilding. So, to simplify, the mechanic I mentioned said he ALWAYS tears down after any prop strike. You had a different situation. To sum up from all the sources, there's no way to know if the engine is damaged until it is enough to cause an emergency. So, fly it with caution and the idea you'd want the best lowest time engine you could afford. The other part is "afford." Then again, it's your life so what can you afford? A crank is at least $8k when passed inspection. As I said, it was a no-go/go for me. I was not told it was good. I have a pile of expensive parts now. I started a series of videos to give people some exposure to this situation. I'd say you're lucky to be alive after a prop separation like that. No offense taken.
This will be going to a rebuilder and I wanted it as close as possible to how disassembled WITH the pistons matching the cylinders because I don't want them sent out again necessarily. That's a point you overlooked in the video? How much did you see? Got the point of only 12 hours on the whole engine after a top overhaul? Everything was as new or recently sent out.
I didn't notice any of your qualifications to make such a statement, but I assume you have none. You didn't bother with most of the other videos produced for this either. You couldn't have. You're alone in your outlook too. Since it bothered you so much, please stay away from anything mechanical as you have no hope to deal with that and you have nothing useful to contribute to anyone.
These things scare the daylights out of me. They look like agricultural inplements from the 19th century. When is the GA going to j oin the 21st century? Carburators (really), magnetos ( a la law nmowers!) Manual wastegates (really!), And manual leaning? These engines would have been obsolete half a century ago if it weren't for antiquated certification regulations, which makes it possible for the manufacturers to sell these prehistoric designs for 10 times what they are worth!
To that I'll add just one thing, they are as reliable as it gets and will log thousands of trouble free hours very routinely. Considering that gas ranges soon will be made illegal you have a point, but where does it stop? By that standard all things are wasteful and need to be made illegal asap.
@@michaelbradford2816 well, everything is relative, and I disagree with you about reliability. One of my friends had her meticulously maintained Cessna ingest a valve! If you treated a modern car engine as carefully as GA engines are treated, they would run forever. GA engines are obsolete 50s technology, and the cost of them is10x what it should be.
I would implement the items that have evolved in the car industry such as: Quad valve, VVT, hemi heads, (The low RPMs of GA engines makes overhead cams, unnecessary) fuel injection, turbo with knock sensors, and automatic waste gates. Or, preferable, a lightweight diesel (The power/RPM characteristics of a diesel are far more suitable , than a gas engine, and safer). Also, it looks to me like the engine in the video only has three main bearings? Really? Mopeds had magnetos five decades ago. Now they don't, and that's for a reason. We don't have magnetos, manual waste gates, etc on cars, because they are less efficient and LESS RELIABLE than modern, microprocessor, managed engines. Porsche did manufacture a 911 based aero engine, which was, from all I've read, far superior to the Lycoming and Continental engines in every way, including reliability. I would love to see a Honda Gold Wing derived (derived, not converted) engine for GA applications. As it is, to have to pay attention to engine management, shock cooling, etc, etc, is inexcusable IMHO. And to charge tens of thousands for this antediluvian technology is almost comical.@@michaelbradford2816.
