Sure, it's horsetraileraccessorystore dot com . You should let them know you came here first as they need to know. I get nothing from them, but there are a lot of inquires for the source. Their products are outstanding. Please be careful nevertheless when working with springs.
There is a lot of information out there concerning engine inspections after a "sudden stoppage" or "prop strike". Some good info, some bad info, some questionable info. DIY is not inherently bad...but A&P techs have training and experience for a reason. Certified engines/aircraft REQUIRE a certified tech to do the work (or supervise). As a 20 year A&P, aircraft owner, pilot, and part 147 instructor, I can very directly say this: Only a fool puts faith in an engine that had a prop strike, based only on a dial indicator check of the output flange. Period. It should be torn down and inspected/repaired EVERY TIME. COULD you gamble your (and others') lives on jamming a prop strike engine back into service? Sure. Should you? NEVER. Thanks to Mr. Bradford for documenting his teardown, and sharing his experience for others to learn from!
You like some others also missed the major point and didn't go to the other videos. My checks were preliminary in place of the lies I was told by an A&P who told me the crankshaft was damaged beyond repair. He only looked at it and threw his hands up to it. So, I sent it in myself documenting it. The results are in another video and the crank came back as an M03. Of course, you didn't see that part. I did the best I could to get it to the point of shipping. A crank easily rejects on any damage up front too like the oil slinger or any cranks anywhere. I couldn't check for all that. The crank certification cost $1500. The engine will be rebuilt by a specialty company, not by a money grabbing self appointed character. I have a lot of criticism for A&P's now, mainly I'd like to see federal regulation on the fees and time estimates as for vehicles in any given state. I'm burned up with the pedants who think they know what they are talking about, FAR this and FAR that, and merely charge hours of labor. I hope you are better than that? I agree with you that only a fool would fly with a damaged engine. I'm no fool. I'm just tired of the overruns and failures of others to perform routine tests, even the most bare bone, and truthfully report the results in a timely manner. It's really about just "pull it and pallet it" isn't it? That crankshaft is about $9k by itself. Who was going to inform me about that? All the other parts in that engine were still new too. The engine as it sat should be worth at least $20k. Go look for one. I'm talking about a "core" not a ready-to-install engine. A core engine with a good crank should run at least $25k. Go check on that too anyone. See what it adds up to. That's for an engine that needs everything else. Simply throwing money at something to satisfy a prattled FAR isn't my way of understanding anything. If one is an owner, one has to be involved actively or must go back merely to renting and taking whatever comes. I chose to take action no matter the outcome and it paid off.
Fine and well, but if the large diameter is whacked, it's a reject just the same. I don't know if you have seen my more recent video, but the crankshaft came back beautifully reconditioned to M03, just in case you would care to look that up? As a further note, I was told that the crankshaft was no good and would have to be replaced. My video is about overcoming stupid, ad-hoc remarks made by "A&P's" who didn't take the time to verify anything about the engine that had only light damage. Regarding my opinion on what goes on in GA with respect to the small aircraft owner, I'd say look out. There are many half-made businesses with minimally qualified people who only know how to bill an hourly rate, nothing beyond that. It's a real shame too because that gives all of GA a bad name. I've got plenty more to say, but it'll have to be some other time. And, one more note: I never planned on making any videos of this type, but I intend to make quite a few more whether they fit a particular pattern of "accepted behaviors" or just what. I'll have to see what happens when I pay dearly to have all the parts put together again. I'll be videoing that too.
No. There should be no need for that since there is no capacitor involved. You may be thinking of a power supply vs a welding power source. Ideally, a choke coil should be installed, but I have not been able to find one that would be acceptable. Nevertheless, the DC produced is excellent and the machine works very well.
There are some options and some other YT videos. Some involve making a copper washer or jacket for the primer. It's possible to swage the head too, but I don't have the press to do that. It's possible to get oversized primers, but it's usually a big order requirement. It's possible to braze the pocket with silver/tin and then ream it to dimensions as well. Plenty of room to experiment with.
That sure makes sense to me. For what it's worth, you could try first to clean all oil out of the threads, then use a blue sealant, but frankly, you should get a refund. The problem is that the same cheap junk is sold everywhere under various names. Too bad too. NAPA used to mean quality. Thanks for letting everyone know. Maybe try some high density silicone grease before you disassemble everything? Hope that helps.
Hmmmm. Well, I had one to do and it's a long time ago, but thanks for the suggestion. If I were needing to produce a number of these, I'd have some other much better set up you can be assured.
How does the fridge shut off the way its wired in the run capacitor is hooked to 110 power all the time how does the refrigerator regulator turn the pump on and off?
There's a relay attached to a thermostat. Without that the compressor would run constantly and freeze the compartment. Finally, the compressor would fail.
@@michaelbradford2816 in your video, It shows you wiring black brown together in a circuit with a black lead from the 3 in 1 then you have blue and white tied together with the other black wire from the 3 in 1. The way your video looks your 3 in 1 will have power at all times without any relay to break the circuit? Maybe im missing something but I just ran your video twice and thats what the wiring looks like, I have wired mine the same as you wired yours it works fine fridge stays cold but its always on the compressor is always running. any help would be appreciated. I cant find the line that would would come from the relay that is controlled by the thermostat
Unfortunately, I gave that fridge to someone who needed it, so I can't go back into it. I realized the 3n1 may look confusing along with the funny terminals that come out of the compressor. If it is true that the compressor always runs, that is an artifact of how things are supposed to be. When I worked on the fridge, I only connected things to the point that it worked. Someone had discarded the unit with no hope to repair it. The device as advertised was to replace the starting capacitor primarily but also a relay. Even without that much, there should be a thermostat line that controls on-off cycles. It is possible that 110 is on one side of the circuit always. Please be careful as you delve into this repair because you could get a jolt from it. I would say if it works right now regardless, let it stay that way. The compressor has a thermal shut down built into it, so it won't really burn out. To me you are describing a problem with the thermostat which is quite possible. Check that, but unplug the unit no matter what you are doing. It's actually not safe for other than qualified repair people, if you can get one even to look at it. Because of the cost, many of these are dumped. It could also be that the unit was made so cheaply that the thermostat was either skipped or completely defective and there were no checks done on the assembly line. Sorry to say that too, but it's possible you are trying to correct something that never worked properly or to any expected standards. Be careful.
@@michaelbradford2816 I figured it out. The black cable that you said to unplug and tape up is the 110 power that is controlled by the thermostat. I connected the black line from the 3in1 to that and left the other black line in the neutral side (white wire) and now it turns on and shuts off with the thermostat. For those that are wondering!
After doing this, i get a bulge where the case head starts. No obviois separation, there is no jag inside the case... But i wonder if there's any danger in this. Half the case expands to meet the chamber wall....
One thing I did present was the fact that I only used a 90g bullet that I made by hand. Since there's a risk that your item was a black powder only one, the fact also to consider is that NO amount of smokeless powder is safe. That's because the pressure rises too quickly with smokeless. Another thing is wear of the cylinder. It could have been stretched. If any shell fits loosely, it's not for use. You did allude the head space by the way by your description. That could mean either the case is too short or the actual diameter of the chamber is already beyond max. Probably though there is excess clearance between the case head and the frame. I would suspect this. You'd need a set of feeler gauges to be sure. It seems the tolerance should be about .002 there and the gap in front. You'd need to do some research to be sure. Based on your report it seems better to forget loading for that item completely. Most smiths won't touch a revolver like that leaving on your own. Never fire any regular ammo in that for the sake of safety. Thank you for your report today.
@michaelbradford2816 I did forget to mention I dated the item via serial number to the 1950s, so no danger of it being black powder. I appreciate the remaining information. I am also using cut down 38 special cases.... and now I'm rethinking this idea, frankly. If I have a pistol with slightly oversized chambers in addition to already slightly undersized brass.....it could end poorly. I did load VERY conservatively with a milder powder( tite group was recomended on 3 forums for this pistol, and i found published load data from lyman, hornady, etc) to Acceptable effect. I appreciate the added feedback!
@michaelbradford2816 safe ish. I'm still taking a bit of you advice, to be safer! Thanks for the input, and I agree.... making the old guns run is just satisfying for some reason!
Thanks. I have that and I agree on the 7018. I really like it. There wasn't enough time to do enough tests for the video. Also, other rods must have DC like the Aluminum rod, so they say.
The Realistic DX-160 radio has a dissimilar metal problem on the tuning printed circuit board with the rivets that connect the top side printed circuit to the printed circuit on the bottom side of the PC board. Resoldering is not sufficient, the fix is to solder jumper wires on the top side of the board to replace the connection made by the printed circuit on the bottom side. Shining a bright light through the bottom of the board shows clearly where to solder the jumper wires on the top side. This is the RF amp and Local Oscillator circuit so it will require alignment. Operation without repair may be intermittent.
I am wanting to get rid of the cables and install pivot pin springs on my enclosed trail toy hauler. Place used to make a kit 10 years ago and they stopped. Cant find anyone that makes a kit. So guess ill just have to design it all. Have you or any other found a kit?
This has come up before, but the kits weren't so good anyway. There's liability in such things. Cables fail too along with the springs. I saw a design once that incorporated long leaf springs under the bed. As the gate came down the springs took most of the load out. It required just a flip to go back to vertical, but it wasn't offered as a kit. Another design had pressure cylinders like shock absorbers to do the same function as springs offered as add-on parts. Not sure as to the status now on those. It's a good question and one I'd like to experiment with. I'd say you're on your own. I'd think that a fluid powered system would be good, battery powered. That's the place to start designing, as for the front of a skip loader. That's probably too costly, however. I've seen those smaller cylinders for sale before. Just an idea.
Hola saludos desde Panamá me gusto mucho tus 2 videos sobre la miller econotig consegui una pero trae unos cables sueltos en el selector ac/dc Crees que me puedas brindar tu ayuda para resolver ese problema.
this video is a tease and looking at your comments below.. you are really not very helpful with sharing info - but at least some of the people commenting below have included parts numbers and where we can find some of the parts here...
I didn't notice any of your qualifications to make such a statement, but I assume you have none. You didn't bother with most of the other videos produced for this either. You couldn't have. You're alone in your outlook too. Since it bothered you so much, please stay away from anything mechanical as you have no hope to deal with that and you have nothing useful to contribute to anyone.
Camera angles can give false impressions. Did you have anything else to add? Seems like there's no reference to go with your comment. Just wondering. Maybe it's just a bad day? Anyway, the data that came back from Oklahoma confirmed virtually no run out and the crank shaft was reground to only M03, in case you missed that point. Not too bad for an over $8k part that a dope told me was worthless. Maybe you'd like to try your mechanical aptitudes along that line? Or maybe you'd like to take about a $25k engine apart in front of everyone and show us how you set things to zero? Be sure to send me the link whenever you get around to it.
Life would be easier if you had the service manual for the engine. You would see all the right ways to disassemble the engine. You've done it incorrectly more than once.
Back in the 80's, all reloaders in Brazil had to do that, because all of our brass was berdan primed. It works perfect for small primer size and for pistol cartridges. Today I still shoot hundreds of converted .38 SPL brass. For large primer size, there is an additional problem: the large boxer primer is smaller than the large berdan pocket. We either punched a crimp around, closing the top of the primer pocket or epoxied the primer... necessity is the mother of invention, mainlythe messy ones... Either way, it worked reliably enough on the .45 ACP for us to shoot IPSC matches. It did, indeed, take a toll on the gun, for hot gases at high speed would hit the face of the slide's breech. My Colt 1911 developed a ring cut around the firin pin hole... We never did it, however, for rifle cartridges because of the higher pressures involved, and I strongly recommend you don't, either. Nowadays all Brazilian brass is boxer primed. I dumped all my .45 ACP de-berdanized brass, but still use the .38 SPL, simply because I have thousands of it, and brass here is still 4 to 5 times more expensive than in the US. I see no reason for any person in the US to resort to this miserable expedient.
Thanks for your comments today. The US military is still selling enormous amounts of brass that was Berdan primed. It appears that the prices of ammo will continue upwards and I'm sure you know about the cost of primers being almost as expensive as the whole round once was. So, any/all alternatives have to be explored. I found a curious YT video regarding the shimming of the primer pocket with copper tubing. I have not yet attempted that, but it too is something to delve into. I agree with you that we should not be in the situation of having to use less than very good brass. No one asked for this. It's just the whole world economy doing it. I'd like to see more custom brass take off and I believe the key could be Mexico. If affordable brass could be had, there'd be a ready market for it. In lieu of that, more experimentation is needed. I think it's possible to weld a brass sleeve into the opening too. Another option is to finally get a replacement primer that's .213 instead of .209. It seems to me that from a manufacturing standpoint it's doable.
Another reason to convert Berdan brass is if you shoot something for which Boxer ammunition is hard (or impossible) to find and there's no ready conversion from another case -- or, as noted, where Boxer primed civilian cases are several times the cost of Berdan primed loaded surplus ammunition. I agree, there can be issues with primer diameter -- I shoot 7.62x54R and all the Soviet-made surplus ammunition I have has .254 (~6.4 mm) diameter Berdan primers -- that's significantly bigger than the .210 (~5.4 mm) for large Boxer primers. As noted, there are methods of swaging in a shim ring to make up the diameter difference, or one could add a step to drill off the base of the primer cup before punching the central flash hole in the case; the outer ring of the Berdan cup (I've read) is the correct size to fit Boxer primers. Once you have a correctly fitting primer, gas leakage around the primer should be nil -- so no damage to your bolt face, no primers falling out after firing, pressure signs will read normally, etc.
It requires a strong rod, preferably about 7mm diameter to center correctly. Centering is the key. After I made the video that included the mistakes, I hit upon using a 7mm 316 stainless rod. Far better and a one shot operation. Titanium would work too. In the video I used spring steel landing gear wire. I had a piece of quarter inch rod that I did not demonstrate. In lieu of 7mm, .250 rod will center better and shouldn't bend. The blow has to be dead center to work. That's the trick. Drilling is not without its problems too.
Good advice, sir. I never had an issue with bleeder screws till my recent replacement of 4 calipers and they all went on fine but they none of them seated right and I have seepage around all 4. Where did you buy your replacements? Because I haven't seen any with that anti sieze which also should help with stop leak.
@michaelbradford2816 I saw those at the autozone. But I decided to get a standard nipple and apply some high temperature thread sealiant available at the part store. I've had great success using that on plumbing. And these products also allow for quite a working time and still will set and provide a good seal. Up to 60 minutes.. Thanks for the reply. I'm glad to know other people are struggling through some of the simplest of repairs due to faulty manufacturing...
If the prop strike was at idle, its extreme rate for any engine damage to happen. If it was under power, and depending on the engine type, often just the gears in the rear case require inspection. Mike Busch has a video on this.
I agree at this point. I couldn't find any damage and the crankshaft came back needing only M03 correction and virtually no eccentric deviation. I was told it was toast. However, the case was another unknown and with the time on the engine as it was, I was steered away from a prop strike inspection. I talked to a number of different mechanics regarding this and all said they never simply do a prop strike inspection, but send the engine in for rework. I believe that's a CYA maneuver plus they get a commission for doing that. So, getting to the TRUTH is the problem. People in the industry control the TRUTH and therefore the costs along with the standard operating procedures. I don't like it one bit. So, that's the reason for the video. As far as I can tell, only the most costly ways of doing things will be chosen by any given shop. It's a safe default for them and many of them don't even need your business at all. If you can cut through that, I'd say wonderful. I've spent a lot of time trying to do that. At this point I'll have to deliver all the certified parts to a rebuilder and hope for the best, when I can afford it.
I have reloaded a bunch of 8mm Berdan primed brass a few years ago, I drilled them out from inside the case using a 1/16" drill bit, then if I remember correctly I used a primer pocket reamer to square up the bottom. I bought some brass tubing sized to fit the pocket and cut pieces to equal the depth of the pocket and pressed them in, this also covered the 2 flash holes. After inserting the tubing I used a de-burring tool to put a slight chamfer on the pocket then drilled them out with a bit sized for the Boxer primer. This is time consuming but it worked out real well. I'm not sure but I think I also had to drill out the primer pocket as well to match the tubing size. After the Boxer is pressed in, one would have to look real close to see the brass insert. Oh, I also purchased a tool for removing the Berdan primers and it worked well, I enjoyed the video, very informative 👍
Possibly. Although a high quality piece of equipment has polarity protection included. It should because it's too easy to make a polarity mistake. Sometimes luck chimes in with a burned PC path, a blown diode or a damaged relay that ended up protecting everything else by a shear bit of luck. You may be able to see damage like that if you dare to take the panel off to look. Shops want $500 just to look.
Instead of using your wire punch, buy a short piece of 5/16 drill rod, cut it to appropriate length, anneal it (heat to non magnetic and allow to cool preferably in some pearlite or some other insulating material) chuck it in a drill press, file your taper and sand down the rod till it fits smoothly but snugly in the case (5/16 will work for 30 cal with only a little touch up) relieve the sharp edge on the struck end, heat the working end about well back from the taper as the heat will quickly run in the thin material till the tip is non magnetic then quench about an inch in oil for few seconds, while moving it slightly, quickly shine the tip and let it run to dark yellow, fully quench.
Or go to Titanium without any heat treating, but grind to the point demonstrated in the video. Or stainless steel, 316 or better, in 7mm rod that will be self centering for many calibers. Again, no heat treating required. 7mm fits a number of calibers, but mainly, the 308 would be the one most needed. Thanks for your input today.
I suggested drill rod for two reasons, one it’s relatively cheap, and the process I described requires only limited tools that most people involved in reloading have. Namely a drill, doesn’t even have to be a drill press, some sandpaper, a propane torch, a pair of pliers, and a can of veggie oil. Its a great way for people to get their feet wet with heat treating
Sure. The problem is that they won't get that correct. My rod bent because I could not center it very well. Had I used the 1/4" landing gear wire, it would have since .250" is a lot closer to .30 cal. Landing gear wire is cheap and grinds very well. I've since updated the way I do the operation and it's really simple. Thanks for your suggestion.
would it not be easier and more precise drilling the berdan primer out, perhaps to reuse as a bushing for a boxer primer? Then just swage the berdan bushing into the pocket.
I found out the hard and costly way that berdan primer pockets existed. I bought a 1,000 count bag of once-used .223/5.56 brass at a swap meet, and then after getting home I broke 3 depriming pins before saying "what the hell is wrong here" I then called my brother to use his bore scope which then revealed 3 small holes in a circular pattern outside of where the 1 center flash hole is for normal brass
Sorry to hear that. The Berdan depriming requires more punch than an ordinary pin can deliver. A steel rod ground to the correct point works well, but you'd need more than just any steel. It should be large enough to be self centering in the neck. The primer will then come out. The next problem is to replace the primer which may be difficult. Other videos show more about that. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
Thanks for sharing this. I'm a car enthusiast. Not generally into aviation. Took a picture of an American Champion plane a long time ago. Looked up the tail num and flight aware pointed me to this engine. Immediately wanted to see how it was assembled. This answered those questions. :)
Hi Michael , first came across this issue way back in the early 1980,s in my Dads shooting club in Liverpool , England while trying to reload a bunch of 9mm cartridges for our Pistol club guns🤔 Had access to copious military 9mm pistol cartridges provided by other members, but annoyingly all has Berdan flash valves 🤨🤨 Had to buy factory loads with the Simpler boxer primer, which of course are not cheap then re-load ! Just frustrated by the amount of military ammo we had to throw away back then 😪😪great video by the way 👍👍
You have choices. You may reload the existing primer. There's a YT video for that, but you'd need to supply the anvils. Actually, you'd insert the new primer into the old shell after taking out the dent. You may choose to reshape the primer pocket further as in squeezing it in special press. You could use super glue fortified with some filler around a new boxer primer. I'm sill experimenting. I call all of it an experiment.
This looks promising, except for the wire steel you're using. What would be a functional equivalent to it that would be widely available, and easier to locate in a hardware store?
