Didn't notice one other difference on the lower markings until after the video. The number "1" is also different on the M16 stampings. Fulton Armory Lower parts kit.
Looks identical to the markings on the PSA M16A2 lower I used for my build, except for the H&R logo and the manufacturer mark, though both say "West Columbia, SC". I presume, since NoDak Spud and H&R are owned by PSA, that the lowers are identical but for the manufacturer's mark. Tapping the hole for the take down pin detent and spring is a "MUST", it makes assembling so much easier! I agree with you on the pivot pin install. I bought one of the plastic tools and it works fine, but your method works as well. The tools aren't expensive, but they really aren't needed. Also using a clevis pin from the opposite side works great. Use it as a "slave pin" to hold the detent and spring in place and push it out with the pivot pin. I'll never figure out RU-vid...there are many videos showing complete lower and upper assembly. 🤷♂ But I don't blame you for being cautious.
@@peteregger7928 I suspected as much. This is why I went with the PSA versions of the M16A2, M4, M4A1 and M16A4 lowers. I got them for $39 each when on sale! The "usual" price for them is $59. H&R never made any of those for the government, so I saw no point in paying $100+ more (each) for the H&R logo. There would, arguably, be a reason to pay that much for the A1 lower if you wanted a more "authentic" clone marking. I've already completed the M4 and M16A2 builds, and am very happy with both. Thanks for your great tips and tricks!
H&R as far as I know only made A1's but they and PSA were one of the first to start making A2 uppers again in a lot of years! With PSA doing all the machining I guess especially on the A2 lowers the H&R logo is a gimmick especially the COTS version where the money is concerned. Maybe worth while if your'e building an A1 as you were saying! Who knows if the H&R A2 stuff might command a little more for resale some day but I doubt it! @@garyK.45ACP
Great video! Look up 1/4” (25) TACSHIM. They are a really good shim set for take down pins. You can put one on each side. You can use some silicone grease and flat end of a 1/4” drill bit to help keep the one side in place on reassembly. Makes things more snug. They also make them for larger .276 308 pins.
Morning Pete 😊😀 Do You Lap The Upper Receiver Were The Barrel Goes in and Indexes I Never Have But I’ve Heard it Makes a Difference in Accuracy and Fitment? I Like Your Longer Videos 😊 I Also Like Chris and Heather Small Arms Solutions 👍🏼
I run my finger nail around the edge of the barrel bore of the receiver and then a precision straight edge. I guess I've been lucky all these years and never found anything. I wouldn't lap the receiver unless there was something there or the barrel extension came up short inside. Chris has a crap load of historical knowledge especially with Colt since he worked there for so long. A lot of Colt insider information which I enjoy. Thanks again Chris!
You know me, always asking questions. I have 2 Aero M4E1's with sloppy pin holes, pita. Do you ever use next sizes pins to work? Great video, thanks for teaching us rookies.
JP Rifles makes under, standard and oversize. I haven't had any builds yet to where I felt like I had to install them. I'll usually just go with an Accuwedge because they're only a few bucks and seem to hold up for a very long time. There are a bunch of knock off Accuwedge's on the market that are junk but if you get the originals they hold up and will take years to deform and take a set. I do have some KNS Precision oversize trigger pins that I bought by mistake that are .1555". Ask all the questions you want Allen! I'm here to learn from others and share something that I think I might know. Thanks!@@Allenmar73
@@peteregger7928.. Thanks Pete! One more, on trigger pins. I'm seeing one pin rotate when dry firing? Could it open up the hole over time or should it not be happening?
Different theories on this one! My belief is the more they rotate the quicker the receiver bores will wear. Some slight movement is normal. The hammer and trigger should float around the pin in my opinion and not cause the pin to rotate. Some of the after market drop in cassette triggers have no way to retain the pins other than maybe some tensioning screws or springs. One of the reasons I have used quite a few Wilson Combat triggers is that he uses locking spring detents that capture the pin grooves in addition to the tensioning springs under the disconnector. My Velocity and Timney triggers have tensioning screws under the trigger block but nothing else to keep the pins in. On those I've been using the KNS Precision anti-rotation/walk pins with the interlocking levers. If your MilSpec type triggers are correctly installed they won't walk out but how much rotation is acceptable? In the Military if anything wears out you just turn it back into the armory and get another one. Wish I had a better answer on this one! My own personal preference is I don't want them to rotate or very little. I do not use any type of anti-rotation pins on my MilSpec type triggers but who is to say it's not a bad idea? Others are going to disagree. @@Allenmar73
Thanks! Was just going to showcase the lowers but decided to keep going! The trigger guard was annoying and I'll probably swap out the mag release button.
The Fulton Armory uses the correct metal spacer. Most kits or parts offerings use plastic. About the only positive I can think of for plastic is if it was too long. Easier to trim down if you needed to.
I have the cheap Wheeler one but it's so flimsy after the first time I used it I was afraid to use it again. I'll take a look at the Little Crow! Thanks Malcom!
@@peteregger7928 It's another tool in the box. It's good for those 'problem' roll pin fitments when you don't feel like banging on the trigger guard dog ears. I've also used Knipex pliers. All with a bit of oil, or grease works too.
I had to pull an old tube off one of my old 90's Colts. Had to use some heat to break it loose. No lube or thread locker! Colt put it on dry back in the day! Wasn't sure it was ever going to come off!
I thought for sure something bad was going to happen even with the heat! I almost threw in the towel when it popped loose! A loud pop/snap! Looked it over close and no damage to the tube or receiver!@@rifleshooterchannel208
I've been using Fulton Armory with the metal trap door. The butt plate to stock isn't a perfect fit but it's not too bad. The metal trap door itself uses the A1 style latch but every thing is metal. My Windham Weaponry's were a good fit and use the plastic doors. Not sure I would trust Windham Weaponry anymore and I'm wondering if they are really back in business or the new owner is just trying to sell off all the old stuff? My old original Colts from the early 90's fit the best but I'm not sure what the new ones would be like if you could find one. Seems a lot of people have used UTG or Luth AR but I have no personal experience with them? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gn80s7R5Gao.htmlsi=PVPLJfZweqJNhDQo
It's the black version. I've seen some other videos where the gray receivers were used and it just doesn't look right on the computer screen. I don't believe the gray A2 uppers come with the M4 cuts if that's something you want. At least the last time I looked anyway.
The right color for a M-16 should be a frosted slate grey color is the only way I can describe the color and I mean a flat slate grey color with no gloss or semi gloss finish
My old Colts are a very dark grey almost a black when all the oil is cleaned off of them. PSA also offers grey instead of the black one that I got but I don't know how accurate they are. The color doesn't look right in the pictures? Maybe someone that has the H&R grey version will comment? Thanks for watching!