This video is an advertisement for their business. Most RU-vidrs survive off add revenue, which they won't get if their videos are demonetized. You're comparing apples and pmags.
FYI for all the new people. During the installation of the first pivot pin that he installed, you will one day send that detent and spring into space it will fall into the Bermuda triangle never to be seen again. My suggestion is to have extras until your skills are honed.
Do the safety and grip last and level the two ears of the lower with the lower flat surface of the receiver extension. Use an automatic centering punch for staking.
Mechanic's trick. When you have to put a screw on the tip of the screwdriver and insert the screw through the pistol grip, place a strong magnet on the metal of the screw driver and the screw / washer should not fall off.
3rd option: Little piece of paper towel on it and then jam it onto the driver/socket so it sticks (but only if it's a hex screw, torx screw, or 6 sided bolt)
For some reason, he didnt show the spring that goes in first when installing the front pivot pin. So anyone new, a spring goes in that lil hole then the detent then the TD pin
While the disconnector and bolt catch plunger springs are similar, they are different. Particularly, the disconnector spring is wider on the bottom end than the top, if you put this in recess for the bolt catch spring, it is entirely possible it binds and catches in the hole, removing tension on the plunger and bolt catch itself which will cause issues with cycling, feeding, lockback, etc. Don't mix them up.
Sweet, l just bought an Ironside holster for my duty Glock 34 and l like, but l wonder if you guys ever going to do a duty holster version and compete with Safariland.
Likely not, T-Rex is a kydex company not an injection molding company. You couldn’t economically make a holster that beats a safariland on features or price out of kydex
I’m not a fan of the bad lever because the one I purchased had too much play in it for my liking. I prefer the phase 5 weapon systems lever. But overall, I’m a fan of having that feature.
Worth the $50 you’re charging for it literally just because I trust you more than aero precision to remember to include all the detents. Schmid also makes a fantastic trigger that costs like $60. Frankly I think it’s a product T-Rex should carry. Geisseles are nice, but $250 is usually better spent elsewhere.
Off topic question; other than length, what's the diff between the Trex Arms "lightbar" and the Arisaka Inline scout mount? Specifically, why Shouldn't the inline mount be used to cantilever the scout light. Much thanks of this gets answered!
The light bar is longer, stronger, and spaces the light slightly further from the axis of the handguard than the Arisaka inline. The Arisaka inline is much more slim and low-profile. I have both mounts, and can definitely say each is best for its intended use. If you try to cantilever the Arisaka inline, it will definitely break eventually, if not quickly. The light bar is much stronger.
When it comes to the bolt catch installation; if using a USGI FCG, install the FCG first and use the hammer to keep the bolt catch from moving around. Makes for a stupid easy installation of the bolt catch…. I can hear the nay-sayers now “BuT iT dOeSn’T wOrK”; yes it does. I’ve used this method a lot, because being lazy makes some things easier. Not having to use your third hand to hold the bolt catch is really helpful
A5 system, is the way. Tho I prefer a Tubbs flatwire over Sprinco green. Sprinco is hard to beat, but I find the merits of a flatwire spring vs coiled to be worth it. The smoother and quieter impulse from an A5H2(your weight may vary) & Tubbs flatwire is 🤌 😎.
I was a little thrown off at first when he said "we get to be a little more particular with the other parts we put on" Then pull out an A2 grip....... But then again that is particular about what you want
$50 is frankly overpriced for this parts kit. Little yo no mention of where these parts are sourced and this is hardly an upgrade over a typical milspec parts kit that comes with a ambi safety. Youd be better off buying a lower parts kit for $25 and then catching a radian talon on sale for $30 and then you'll be miles ahead.
We already know how to put it together. Tell us that the pins are USGI, not dimpled or nitrided or any BS. Tell us that the selector is ambi with a short right arm, etc...
Getting Lucas off the public facing part of the company is a great idea until he can act like an adult and learn to keep his mouth shut about stuff he doesn't understand
