Nice! It would be nice to see a wiring diagram how you wired up the two speed controller boards if any, and the two BLE boards to use with one throttle level. I assumed you connected the BMS for each battery pack directly to the each speed controller board but is there something else you had to connect between the two speed controller boards? Some guy had a video on youTube that showed a connection between the speed controllers but you did not mentioned if you did in the video. I assumed you can use the same firmware to flash the two speed controller boards since they are independent to each others. Another thing, you may want to put those cheap front suspension on your Xiaomi 2WD. The ride quality is totally different. I got mine from eBay for $41 and it took about an hour to swap them.
Cool ! It would be nice to see a wiring diagram how you wired up the two speed controller boards and how to use 1n4148 and the correct way to connect both controller. thanks
How did you manage the recuperative mechanical force from the rear motor when the second system is off? Did you try to use only one battery, I guess its not going to use twice the battery, because the effort is not twice bigger on each wheel?
Really nice video. I’m debating between the hi boy s2 pro and the go trax g4. I also go up somewhat steep hills, not like yours but would like something to explore like this.
Absolutely awesome video showing everything with loads of detail. Has anyone tried keeping just one battery and just one computer, but running two motor drivers? I’m guessing the combined current draw would need checking to make sure that the battery can supply without any issues
i made an e bike with dual motor. one of the controllers was controlled by arduino. if i push gently on the throttle there was only one motor engaged, if i push it all the way, second moyor would engage. and if i reached a certain speed one motor would shut down
...wondering if one board can controll two motor controllers if one want's all the time 2 wheel drive? Was planing to upgrade battery, either buying higher cap cells, or adding additional one to it... And adding additional motor to rear, but don't need option for controlling those separately, buth rather having it dual motor all the time... Is there anywhere to find pinouts for modules? Thanks...
@@cbutters Any chance you can send me an email or someway to contact you direct? I wanted to see exactly what way you set your controllers up and a few other things. I have mounted the rear wheel already with the same kit curently running RWD instead lol
Hi, great video, very interesting. I was wondering if it is possible to use just one controller to support/run the 2 powered wheels? Also I know virtually nothing about 3d printing. The link that you gave regarding the battery extension cover. Is that the information that a person with a 3d printer needs to make it? Did you modify & make your own from it? Many thks Steve
Hey i was wondering are this stock motors? 350w? I would like to build one but i have a 500w motor and would like to use another 500w to become 1000w of power ;)
Hi, a couple of questions. 1) When you turn on the second BLE with the button, how do you know what mode it is in? (eco, normal, sport). 2) How do you synchronize both BLEs? Otherwise you will have one in sport mode and the other in eco mode. How do you manage them?
old vid, but I know you can do this using the SFHU. If you have a custom firmware on it, you can can basically set it to always come on in the same setting. Beyond that, likelihood is only wanting the second one for added torque, so you can set it to bypass all modes and just operate in one speed....with a second throttle, you can basically feather it to match overall traveling rate. I'm in the process of doing this with a ninebot max g30 clone using 10inch stock rear wheel, two m365 controllers that have been modded for higher voltage and current, and an m365 motor with 10 inch tire on the front. My plan is to set the second controller (front wheel) either to Direct Power mode and use a 2nd throttle, or put both on Scooter Hacking firmware and tune them where the front uses a little less power to match the rear speed (since most weight sits on the back) and have them operated from the same throttle and power button (with a parallel bypass on/off switch for motor two) so I can choose whether I power them on simultaneously or independently. Fun fact is if you go from a Ninebot rear driven scooter to a dual motor, it's a lot easier to make a Xiaomi motor fit the front fork (short shaft and ample clearance) than the modifications it takes to make ANY motor fit the rear of the M365 models. I'm hesitant to go Ebrake only, but I do realize that the drum on the Ninebot wasn't that strong anyhow. I'll have a disc kit to install from Monorim just in case, but I think it's gonna be solid. Parallel 36V batteries with an external plug to bump it all up to 48V and if I choose.
I mean... anything is possible... you would definitely need two speed controllers though. if you wanted more power; you'd probably need a custom battery though, lots of guys bump things up to 42v...
Hi, will you help me sign it in my m365 because I did something wrong and it does not work like you did in the movie. I have photos and I drew a diagram of how I connected it
wow that traffic in front of your shop... djeez is it always that busy? amazing build!!! so sick especially impressed by the electronic braking. Does it have a true sinewave or squarewave controller? my newest bike build has amazing regen brakes but still uses a square wave KT controller
I still think your braking situation is kinda bad. from my experience you truly need to have good controlable brake force. for me braking electronically on my bike is really strong. but if I ride down a hill its only so much it can do where my brakes really give me a sense of control being able to completely or close to lock the wheel
I totally get that you might want to lockout the wheel. ESPECIALLY on a bicycle. However on a scooter; when going ultra low speeds; you just put your foot down and you are fine. This is actually the exact same principle used on Segway ES2 and Unagi Scooters or "one wheels" which do not feature disc or drum brakes either. I'll have to do a video of me stopping on an extreme hill. It really does slow quite well; but yes; I agree... Ideally there is a physical brake; adding one at this point to my build seems overkill though; as it would be adding a THIRD brake and repurchasing a motor cover. For those viewing; they may want to make that design change when building (as I noted in my video) but as for me; It works great.
does anyone know what's the exact list of parts needed for this plz?? ..and if its possible to only use one controller for both motors/batteries? Thank you
each motor, motor controller, charger and battery system is completely separate; they only are linked by the handlebar controls. (Each battery charges separately)
Any chance you can make a video and break it down some more in sections etc part 1,2,3,4 and we can all buy all required hardware and modify it and what firmware would be grateful. Other then that this video is not intended for us having the same as what you got more of a demonstration and idea. But other then that thanks for this video but it's a very very big tease knowing we haven't got a idea how to doit.
just experienced this issue with trying this mod. I'm about to switch to a Schottky with a super low voltage drop bc this 1n4148 is 0.6 to 1V.... top speed went from 36/38 freewheel to 29/30 based on the return voltage. Schottky should keep me closer to unmodified.
Just tried tweaking the firmware for my scooter and I was able to negate this by adjusting the max throttle hall sensor setting. Using the Scooter Hacking Firmware that I flashed to my controller, there's a configuration near the end that adjusts hall sensor settings for the throttle and brake. I think default is about 180 for the throttle... and after the diode ....my top speed was reduced while freewheeling.... I adjusted the throttle max to 155 and regained the previous top end. I'll see how it works under load after I get my new data cable for the second motor and controller to tie it all back together.
What happens when the batteries are full and you apply the electronic brakes while going down a hill at high speed? Won't the energy generated by the breaking system fry the controller?
My understanding is the electronic brake is different than regen braking. The electronic brake literally shorts the motor and slows it that way at the cost of heat.
@@cbutters I have installed Rita on my m365 and it allows to connect 12s battery together with the stock one. When both batteries are fully charged - I have no braking power from the motor at all. This suggests me that it is a regen brake on the m365. M365 custom parts on theit fb posted some news - as I understand they are coming out with front diskbrake mod for the monorim v2 :) And myself I can’t find the inserts for installing the motor at the back of the m365 :(
Front and rear electronic brakes just like the unagi scooters. It is controlled electronically from the brake lever which is wired to both electronic speed controllers
It is still operating under 36V batteries so it doesn't have a much better chance of success at higher top speed; Right now I have it capping out at 32kph (20mph) I haven't tried to really bump up the top speed as that is plenty for me. If you take the range of the Pro and the range of the M365 battery; should get around 40-45 miles of range; but I still need to do a range test. Where this mod really shines is in the acceleration and hill climbing department; I can go up the steepest hills in my area at 20+kph, where many of these hills were almost impossible for the Pro to climb at all.
