After the failed vented dipstick project, I have a great venting solution that uses the transmission top cover, including a check valve -- Although I am debating whether or not that's necessary. Let me know if you've tried anything like this, and if you have any facts about whether or not a vacuum in the crankcase is needed (for pulling oil down?). Do you have any other ideas to make this a better solution?
Hey Paul - thanks for sharing that. I’ll definitely check out his video. I’ve heard the same thing about venting both and removing the vacuum. I plan to do some tests on mine to see what I can determine.
@paul wichert bought all the parts to do it just skeptical if the softails even need the trans vented. Got a 21 heritage 114 stage 1 any ideas fellas? Should I just let it roll or just go for it and why would I do this 😆
Hey Tyler - blow-by is the main thing that is addressed. Venting the crankcase will greatly reduce (possibly eliminate) the blow-by whereas a breather mod will just route the blow-by oil and gasses away from the intake so they don’t get sucked in and end up on top of the pistons. Not sure if they’ve done anything with the 2021 models to address this. Also note that I originally did both mods to my bike, but I’m about to post a follow up video with some updates. Some say doing both is a problem but I’m still unable to get verifiable info on this. I’ll share more in the follow up video. Hope that helps.
As a first time HD owner, there’s a lot of info out there about this issue, all of it is confusing. This channel and this video was the most helpful for me. Thanks for the content.
Hi Ron, thanks for this! I have been investigating the crankcase venting issue for the M8 for several weeks, trying to decide what to do with my 2018 Sport Glide. Your solution makes the most sense to me out of all the other ideas I have come across, and I am going to implement your fix. I enjoy getting my hands dirty, and installing a fix for a known issue on my bike is very appealing. Thanks for your research and labor in getting this together. Off to the garage!
Hey Charles - thanks for the feedback! Let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I got this put in today! I used the red loctite with the removable nut top side so there's no possibility of the nut falling down. Bike runs much smoother and revs faster. Thanks for sharing how to do this! I trimmed the bottom barb so it wouldn't hit the casing below with a hacksaw. This vent works great! Went with the 1/4" stainless fittings.
Hey JJ - thanks for the kind words and for sharing the info about your project! I can feel a performance difference as well. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Just did this to my 19 heritage over the wknd. Took about 30 mins. Ball end Allen sockets save a lot of time. Great video. I have the A1 cycles dipstick on my Road glide special but am considering doing this to it as well. The heritage doesn't make half the air pressure that the RGS does. I've also got both vented at the breather as well. I did not do the check valve as you did. I didn't really see a need to. I placed the end of the tube in a plastic bag and never got any vacuum at all. The bag kept getting larger so I'm not sure of the vacuum that some are speaking of. Again great video!
Hey Timberjkd - thanks for sharing your results and also for the feedback! I like your creative approach to testing for testing the vacuum and the ball-end allens are a great tip. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Oh well, my husband and I say you are always welcome to come up. I would like to keep my bike in better than stock condition, it is also a stage 1. Reinhardt slip on's and a Screaming Eagle oval air cleaner and the Screaming Eagle tuner/programmer.
Great video and instructions. I had a Trask on an 18 CVO SG with an S&S oil pump. the Trask dumped oil out the breather! called Trask and was informed that my Gen1 oil pump (without o-ring between pump and case) will do that but, after adding a vented dip stick I was able to release the Trask trany vent. Also noted H-D added this o-ring on mid 2019 and up. So if you fall into this category, do vent at the trany cover. My 2022 FXLRST will get the trans cover and head venting DYI. I believe that the vacuum keeps the rings seated to the cylinder walls on decel. copied from a major Mfg. bulletin. On 2019 and earlier M8 motorcycles, there is NO seal between the oil pump body and the crankcase, inside the cam chest. H-D incorporated the seal in late 2019*. This seal prevents pressure from the crankcase pushing into the cam chest through the pinion bearing.
Hey Jeff - thanks for the kind words and for sharing that info! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
id say that the check valve idea is when your open throttle it can cause vacume in intake and pull the vapor from the heads? but i guess if they are also disconnected leaving it open would be fine. ill be doing this mod and leaving it open for sure as some checkvalves have to reach a certain pressure to open. id rather just have it open to air :)
That's an option for sure. Let me know how it goes! Just make sure you have a pod filter or some filter if you leave it open., just to make sure nothing can get pulled in.
I went to ACE and bought a small 90* BrassElbow = 2-3$ with conical thread, went home and did what you did but I drilled a hole and then used a NPT Tap to make a thread in the Top Cover. Gave the Brass Elbow some Red Loctite…screwed it in and mounted a nice black hose with a quality Crank Case filter and put it exactly where you did. Works just perfect !
Hey Christoffer Lunoe - that’s great! Thanks for sharing that information. Is your top cover metal? Mine is plastic so I don’t trust it with just NPT threads.
So typical Harley. If it were my car with a crank case vent issue there’d be a recall covering it under warranty, with HD we get to find our own solutions. Thanks for the video. I’ll seriously consider doing this myself.
Hey Chris - yeah, good point. If you tackle it let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop i need to ask if putting a hole in the case will give them an excuse to deny the warranty. If that’s not an issue I’ll start ordering parts, and a toolbox sticker. :-D
@@chrissmith7669 Hmmm...not sure on that one. I just had mine in for warranty service, but I'm sure they did not see the mod since it is not really visible. If you ask it may raise a flag. I think it also depends on the individual dealer and how picky they are.
I implemented essentially the same on my Road King after I had the same messy problem with the A1 Cycle vented dipstick (their solution was to run less oil level and I wasn't so happy with that) - it works really well and on the 2018 MY RK at least, the top cover is metal! :-) Great video, kkep up the great work!
Hey Ian - thanks for the feedback! I’m also not a fan of running lower oil levels. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Ron I ended up having oil blow all the way through the hose through two filters and onto my bike under wot only. Ultimately I built two baffles. Installed one in the dipstick and the other I replaced the filter medium in the fuel filter I used with a baffle followed by compressed foam. Not as free breathing but does breath and no more oil blowing out
For anyone doing this mod, Trask released a info letter stating that if your bike DOES NOT have the oil pump with the seal against the crank bearing side, you will probably have oil puking out of the vent hose. The seals stops the crankcase pressure from migrating into the cam chest.
This is absolutely true! I have a 2017 M8 touring bike that I did this mod on, and it puked about 6 oz of oil out on a 500 mile road trip. I had to close it back off and spend some time cleaning the oil that spattered all over my engine and exhaust. Pretty disappointing to say the least, but the bike definitely ran better with the venting in place. I didn't want to have to change the oil pump, but looks like that's the only solution to the cam chest pressure problem...
Thank you for the tip. How do I determine what type of oil pump is on my 2021 Sport Glide? (Sorry, I've owned and worked on around 70 bikes in my time, but this is my first HD!)
You and me both - it’s my first Harley as well :) Here’s a link to the HD technical tip bulletin about the oil pump. Based on the bulletin, any bikes 2020 and later (and some late 2019 bikes) should have the improved pump: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164800-9999.pdf
Great work, Ron! My bike is a 2022 RGS. It has an SE HO oill pump and 122 kit with 447 cam. Before the build, I had horrible problems with blow by. I did the vent to atmosphere breathers and vented dip stick and these served allow oil to be blown all over the bike. After the 122 kit and new oil pump, I was advised by the builder not to do the vented dip stick but that the breather vents were OK. Well, it seems the motor was over-filled and it blew slobber to the tune of around 300cc. Once the excess oil blew out it settled at around the 3/4 dot below the full line with no more abnormal slobber. I am now comfortable running the OE configuration but will only fill on servicing to about half-way on the stick. Problem solved. Finally. I believe H-D should change the fill line on the stick and this would essentially solve all the breather slobber issues. In fact an H-D mechanic told me just today the MOCO has changed the dip stick. He did say what changed, however. Cheers!
Hey John - thanks for sharing the project update! I’m glad it all worked out for you. How do you like the 122 kit with that cam? And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hi, Ron! I really love the 122 kit with the torque cam. It pulls hard but is smooth and very easy to ride. It uses the stock heads and valves but high capacity lifters and pushrods. For reliablity and durability, I added the SE HO oil pump. All H-D parts except S&S billet lifter collars. I have 1K miles on it now and have zero oil loss as long as it is not overfilled. It looks like I can easily go 5K without having to add oil. I check it every fuel stop out of habit. It is still under warrranty and so far H-D has been very supportive. I use my bike for commuting commonly this time of year and even when ambient temps are over 100F it does at high Interstate speeds for long distances. Syn 3 all 3 holes. The bike also does very as a canyon carver, general touring, sport touring. It handles excellently. If I had one "complaint" it would be the underpowered front brake and no heated grips. These corrections will be made as time and finances allow. Might even take a trip to Sturgis next week. Spontaneous transcontinental touring:)
Now that you've been running this for a couple of months, do you have any follow up thoughts? I was curious what you thought about a metal check valve that threads into the transmission cover? Do you think it would yield any different results that you were able to achieve with the plastic check valve? I was thinking of closer placement to the cover to eliminate flex in the hose vent line when the valve closes?? Thoughts?
Hey Stephen - I'll be posting a follow-up video in a few weeks. I have yet to find a metal check valve that suits me, but I'm still looking (I'll give more detail in the follow-up video,). The differential vent that was mentioned in one of the comments is a decent option, but I prefer having a hose barb on it. Let me know if you come up with any that look promising.
Hi all, I think an automotive style PCV valve with a 90 degree connector is the way to go. Then run the hose down under bike with a filter or catch can. There will be oil trapped above the fitting if you go straight up from the cover since the vapors will contain oil and eventually clog it up. In an automotive style setup the pcv is attached to the vacuum side of air intake to eliminate the oil residue. Great video btw, good info.
Hey William - thank you for the kind words and for the input! I agree an automotive PCV valve could be a good option - the important point in my opinion is to get one with a very low opening pressure. Maybe one for a small import?
Did your mod yesterday as iv got Dino run next weekend and boy ur right about fiddly getting them bolts out ! Buy all good tho. Thanks for the tips Ron.
Hey Dean - very nice! Let me know how the dyno run goes. Do you happen to have a baseline run to compare to see if there is any power difference? And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey FitMike713 HTX - thanks for the feedback! I’m glad the info is helpful - let me know what you end up with. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great info, I found everything I need to do this (except filter) in my junk drawer of my toolbox... looks like I got a project for after work tomorrow👍🏻
Hey Ride Red - thanks for the feedback! Let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Atomjonesy - So far so good. I plan to release a follow up video in a couple of weeks and I’ll share an update and also cover some info that has been raised in the comments.
Hey Atomjonesy - I just posted the follow-up video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey João Maurício Basile de Souza - thanks so much! I’ve got some really cool projects going…really cool stuff coming. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Andreas - I’m glad this was helpful! You might want to watch the latest video as well, where I cover the top questions about crankcase venting: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JPI3AeMfYeg.html
Only thing I do not know right now is If I can leave the breather bolts where they are on a 117 with heavy breather. If I use the transmission top cover solution there is still a possibility of mist flowing through the BBs... Unless resistance along the catch can if far far less than it is though those bolts. I was watching your great contend exessiveply lately and will keep following! 👍 👍 👍
Hey Andreas - I don’t understand the first question. For #2, for me relieving the crankcase pressure is top priority. Vacuum is nice to have but may or may not be possible without a separate vacuum source.
I realy like your work and the clarity with which you present it. My atempt at a dipstick vent failed misribly (oil all over the place) so following your inititive and after learning from watching Mr Baxters vidoes I have accumulated the parts to vent through the m8 trans cover. My concern is the check valve, being in the uk I have bought a Sytec non return valve designed for fuel lines, I hope this is ok. i am new to HDs (have 2018 107 m8) so I find your investigations most interesting and perplexed at HDs engineering omissions/short falls. Thank you Ron for work.
Hey Brian - thanks so much for the encouragement! With the check valve, an important point to check is the opening pressure. You want that as low as possible. I tried several fuel check valves and the opening pressure was to high for my liking. I’m not sure what the magic level is, but I literally blew with my mouth to check. When it would open with barely any pressure, I knew I had one I liked. I hope that makes sense. Let me know what you end up with. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Thank you for the reply. Yes opening pressure is a concern, I can blow it open (it opens reluctantly). I have tried measuring it using a cycle pump gauge but pressure too low to measure. I will check operation by The plastic bag trick. Got a plan for a Closed head breather loop using a small catch can then to the OEM vacuum tube. Really appreciate your videos, grateful for the sticker offer but postage to UK would not make that a realistic option.
Hey Ron after watching your videos and other on UTUBE , I finally vented the transmission top cover on my 2019 street glide CVO. It’s too soon to tell if it will cut down on the oil spiting out of my air filter on free way rides or if I rode it hard for awhile but I’m sure time will tell. I,d like to tell you that I appreciate your videos and I will enjoy seeing your news ones as you share them with the UTUBE community. Thanks Steve K
Great videos, Just ordered all the 1/4" stuff to do the Trans vent mod. Can't wait to see the results. I took my air cleaner off on my 2019 Road Glide and there was a decent amount of oil.
Did the DIY with a 5/16” set-up. First thing you notice is that the motor runs smoother when idling and switching over to single lung, when hot. Mileage went from 42 to 45. Stumping didn’t really change. Was 5 oz a month before the fix. 6 oz at the time of the change, 5 oz after the change and 140mile highway run. No gray oil sludge showing up anywhere. Would say it’s a must do for M8s. Now for the lifter guides and lifters. Thanks Ron.
i never had a problem until i changed the mufflers and the baffles were too small. they must have caused too much backpressure. then i noticed a lot of oil dripping under the breather. i changed the smaller baffles to larger and the oil problem disappeared. along with lowering the crankcase oil level. the factory wants the oil no higher than halfway up the fill marks. even 1/4 below half will be fine. i now keep it 1/4 below half. and just use an oil pressure gauge as a backup. my 96 holds quite a lot of oil. i can't see lowering it being significant. works for me. maybe run the breather hoses up to a tee above the rocker boxes and add a baffled breather. and let gravity drain it back to the engine. they make a small breather with some kind of oil catch baffle built in. I've done a lot of mods on problem engines. i enjoy learning the hard way. sometimes its the only way. lmao.
Thanks for the video. Did mine yesterday. Hopefully it helps with my excessive heat problem on my 2019 SGSP. Only thing i would probably change would be use a bard fitting with a 45degree angle to make it easier to put hose on close to the rear jug. Also for getting bolts out i used a hex bit from my screwdriver set and put a little electrical tape on it to hold it into a 1/4" ratcheting wrench. Worked perfectly. Again Thanks for the video for something that should be stock on all v-twins.
I just did a dip stick vent on my 16 flhx. In the process of several other upgrades so have not rode it yet. I installed an Edelbrock mini fuel filter with a unifilter on top of it with about two n a half feet of hose. I will be externally venting the Arlen ness drift air cleaner assembly as well. Mechanically it makes since that pressure eliminated out of the rotating parts would allow a cleaner easier running engine. Nice job on the videos. Thanks for that and I’ll do some thorough testing after I get everything back together.
Hey Alex - thanks for the info and the feedback! Definitely let me know how it goes once you get some miles on it. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Dexter - thanks for letting me know! I’m glad it was helpful. Be sure to check out the follow-up video as well. There’s some important info about pressure, vacuum and the check valve: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Bey - thanks for the encouragement! Glad you find the info useful. If you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Kendall - thanks for the kind words! Be sure to check out the recent update as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JPI3AeMfYeg.html
@@RonsWorkshop I have a 22 Road glide ST. I ordered the Trask vented transmission cover and it arrives Friday. Your videos really helped me make the decision. Keep pushing out the content as I tend to watch more of the more informative videos with clear dialog.
@@RonsWorkshop I have a question. Went to do the checkmate install and the middle hex head by the cylinder will not break free. I don’t want to strip the head of the bolt. Any suggestions?
@kendallrampy2360 hmmm…might have try the old classics. PB Blaster, Marvel Mystery Oil, or maybe a little heat from a propane torch. Let me know how it goes…
Finished my dipstick and transmission top cover vent instal today ! and it works 😀 I used a kuryakyn dipstick drilled through and tapped to take a brass tube adapter in the top. This runs round the rear suspension adjuster and under the seat through a one way valve, then exits behind the suspension adjuster again. It then goes into a quick release fitting that attaches too a T piece, on its side. I drilled and tapped the transmission cover like in your video and fitted another brass hose adapter ( but a larger bore) This goes into the T piece and up under the seat, over the shock and back out behind the top of the rear cylinder, into another quick release fitting and into a small air filter. The idea is that having it up here any air drawn in will be warm so no condensation ! There is no one way valve in the tube between the top cover and the filter so if any oil coming from the dipstick tube can return via the top cover. As yet no oil has been forced up to the filter, so I assume this works ! It looks neat enough but obviously a Trask cover and a feuling dipstick would look real nice. Thanks for the idea for the top cover vent, although it was real tight getting those six bolts out ( I fitted nice new chrome ones from Drag Specialties )
Since I already have the Fueling vented dipstick, I might try your DIY vent in the transmission cover and then connect the dipstick and trans cover vent tubes together using a breather filter with top and bottom hose fittings.
@@davidgilding3549 One though - I considered using a single line (by using t or y fittings to tie them) but I was concerned that pressure from one could charge the other, basically working against one another. Based on that I decided to keep them separate. Does that make sense?
@@RonsWorkshop Hi, I see what you mean but if the pressure is pushing out they should equalise. I will try with a larger diameter T to collect any oil that pushes up from the dipstick ( that tube will have a one way valve) but no valve going up to the end filter, that will sit behind the top of the rear cylinder where the air will be warm and dry ! My thought is that at some point in the engine's cycle air will be drawn back in scavenging any oil coming from the dipstick back into the transmission cover if that makes sense ? I will take some pics when it's done ( If it works ! ) That transmission cover WAS a pain to take off ! I managed to round off one Allen bolt but got it out by driving a star type fitting in. A set of new bolts are on the way !
Hi Ron, like your solution! Much cheaper than the Trask and for sure something to try out. I will put this on my m8 roadking special 2017 because i put in a new redshift 468 cam which will make more torque/rpm’s so the crankcase pressure will go up. More venting is adviced next to the standard vent tube… great footage !! Thanks, greetz from The Netherlands, yes the land od Gouda cheese, tulips and wooden shoes (Amsterdam) 🧀 🌷🇳🇱
Ron - Just an FYI for those with pre 2019 M8's, they did not use an oil pump to engine seal. This results in significat blow by (aka oil gushing out of the breather). I called trask after having this issue on my 2018 Fatboy 114 and they told me that without the seal, not to run it as it will shoot oil out. Either need to add the seal to the existing pump, or just upgrade the oil pump while you are in there and add the seal.
@@RonsWorkshop I actually did your DIY which I loved instead of going with the Trask kit, but I figured they would be able to help me trouble shoot and they were very helpful. I will be adding the breather back in once I add that seal
Hi Ron, great AWSOME tutorial DIY video. Question, i already did the air cleaner venting pressure done on my m8 low rider s. Is this trans cover venting necessary for me to do also? Appreciate ur feedback.
Thank you for the kind words! Even with the breather mod it’s worth checking for crankcase pressure. With the hike running you can pull the oil filler cap and see if you’re getting pressure - you can use a plastic bag or balloon over the filler tube if you need to. If you’re still getting pressure it’s worth it to vent the crankcase.
I did the vented dipstick and relocated the return lines out of throttle body down to a filter. 2020 m8 and man I noticed a big difference in the way the motor runs feels much more free running think I even gained a little H.P. the more you vent the more you prevent may even do this trans cover too
Hey SILVERGHOST 2323 - thanks for sharing that. I agree - let that thing breathe! If you vent the top cover let me know how it goes. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron thanks I'm real curious to see if my cover is plastic as well I have a street glide it also came with the added venting from factory in 2020 on the clutch side inside housing
Nice job very clean work don’t feel you need check valve! But what do I know great video! Also I’m wondering if it’s the same on the touring bike cover?👍💯🇺🇸😎
Hey Glen - thanks for the feedback and input! I’m leaning that way too. I do believe the touring bikes are the same - you may even have an aluminum cover lol.
I have the TRASK CheckM8. It really makes a big difference especially since I have a 128" engine. It worked fine before I added the Big Bore kit. BUT, after I added the kit I noticed oil dripping out of the filter. The culprit was that I didn't have the "O" Ring/gasket on the back of the oil pump. Harley added this in 2019-2020. It wasn't in the directions of the S&S oil pump. When I called Trask the Tech spouted off the part number like it was his name. Apparently, this is an issue when increasing displacement. Added the "O" Ring and no more oil problem.
Going to do this as well as a mod to vent the air cleaner ports into the same place on the transmission cover. Should help keep the throttle body from getting oil in it as well.
Hey Jamie - just make sure you T into the line outside the transmission top cover rather than venting back into the top cover and then out. That way you avoid putting contaminants into the crankcase. Let me know how it goes!
Hey 18superduty - thanks for the feedback and let me know how it goes! Follow-up video coming soon. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey bud thanks for all your help. I did your trans vent but put a loop in the hose above the cover and up under the seat then down the rear fender, and put a breather on the end. Put about 1000 miles before it had any sign of oil no drip just wet. BEHIND the tire . Not sure if that loop is helping but the throttle body is dry. Thanks again for your help 👍
Hey Jorge - thanks for the feedback! Let me know if you tackle the project. I’ll be posting a follow-up video with a bit more info very soon. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Finally got around to tackling the project. First off, thank you again for your great videos and list of things needed. Made it super simple to do. I vented my ‘21 CVO Roadglide. Cool part about that is my trans. cover came metal from the factory so it came out CLEAN. I couldn’t be happier. I installed it with the check valve.
Hey Jorge - thanks for letting me know! I’m so glad this was helpful for you. Let me know how you like it after logging some miles. I believe it really helps and I can feel it with my “butt dyno” lol. Be sure to check out the follow-up video for pertinent info as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html
You totally motivated me. I did the trask like solution without a check valve. I have a street glide so there’s a little more room by the trans cover but it’s still tight. I purchased a vacuum hose kit. It comes with 1/4 and 3/8 fittings, rubber seals and bits needed to create holes that their fittings work with. 3 feet 3/8 fuel line and breather filter. All in was $24 and about 90 minutes total time. The gasket under my cover looks different than yours. The gasket seals the cover completely from the oil passage. The trans area of the gasket already had a hole with the breather. So I made two holes using a paper hole punch on the opposite end of where I created the hole for the breather exit. So far about 80 miles. Like you I have a 117 stage 4 from Harley and I changed the cam to a Woods 77X. After going to the Woods cam I’ve seen more oil in the intake. After this it’s bone dry so far. I’m going to do the head breather before the end of the month. Will come back and comment after that update.
Hey Pete - that’s for that info! Glad to hear it’s working well. Are you happy with the Woods cam? I have a few things planned when the warranty is up in a few months 🤪 If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I love the cam. It has a sweet lope at idle. Torque that was missing from the SE 515 cam is there starting at 2k. Bike runs past 6k still pulling hard. There is torque everywhere. I’m actually getting better fuel mileage when highway cruising at 3k RPM. Runs a little cooler than SE Stage 4 setup. This cam definitely requires higher rate valve springs. It’s a 520 lift cam. So it’s going to be less popular than 470 lift that can use stock rate springs.
Awesome Video! I’ve been debating on doing an install video of the Trask or just Modifying Harley’s “China Made” plastic cap. Great content Ron, keep’em Coming 👍🏽
Hey RAIDER WORLD - thanks for the kind words! Let me know what you end up with. And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Now I feel like I owe you 250 bucks because I was literally about to buy the fueling dipstick but dang that is freakin amazing it’s definitely what I’ll be doing..
Lol that’s hilarious. Thanks for the feedback. Let me know how it goes and if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Ron, just like cars/trucks. You will want a vacuum in the crankcase. Obviously not positive pressure from the stroke, I suggest you put a check valve in. I still have my setup and it's doing great.
Hey Cody - yep, this one has a check valve in it. I’ve also done a vacuum-ported catch can mod that you can check out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5h6Apcj7DDg.html
Well I saw your video one day to late and had just ordered the Trask cover. That being said I really like your idea and I really like the cover from Trask . It wasn’t very hard to remove the original cover thanks to the cobalt mini ratchet you recommended. Had to remove it twice since I forgot to transfer the transmission vent tube from the Harley cover to the Trask 😫. I agree it feels like the engine runs smoother and has a little more pep, like you it may all be in my head . I’ll be watching to see if any oil accumulates in the filter, I looped the hose up as far as I could and zip tied it to frame under my bike, we will see.
Hey Ron, great videos and info. I was considering using a PCV valve from pre-emission requirements, used on cars. Have you considered such a system, tried using it?
Hey Daniel - Thanks for the kind words! Using an automotive PCV valve is definitely an option. The main consideration in that case is the opening pressure of the PCV valve. If you can find one for a small import it would probably work well. Other viewers have mentioned one or more PCV fittings that have been tried, and some are even threaded so it could be attached directly to the transmission top cover. Let me know if you try one!
Hey Donald - thanks for the kind words! Check out the follow-up video where I clarify that a bit; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JPI3AeMfYeg.html Let me know if that helps…
First of all, great video. Second, sub'd now and third.... I'm here watching this because my wife's 2020 Low Rider S is having venting issues (I'm assuming due to lack of any other possibilities) There's tranny fluid coming out of the clutch cable where the adjuster is clamped to the front of the frame. What are your thoughts? Is this a venting issue? And why now? I see a little vent tube above the case. Doesn't seem clogged.
Hey J F - thanks for he kind words! It sounds like that's a fluid transfer issue. I haven't worked with that myself, but I have heard and researched a little bit around it. You might want to start with some research on that year & model for fluid transfer. I seem to recall there is a different clutch pushrod that helps somehow? But that's just a guess going from memory. Nonetheless, I do recommend checking for crankcase pressure to see what you have. If you're seeing pressure then adding a crankcase vent will only help the motor. You can check out this part of this video for a quick and easy check: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JPI3AeMfYeg.htmlsi=ilJnLoaSGhtba_PE&t=55 Let me know what you find out!
Hey really like channel very helpful. I have a 2023 roadglide special still under warranty will venting my crankcase this way have any effects on my warranty. Thank you
Hey Darrin - Thank you for the kind words! I believe each dealership may have their own stance on this, so it’s probably worth asking about. If they sell vented dipsticks and don’t have a problem with those, I wouldn’t think they’d have an issue with crankcase venting. You might also want to watch the recent video where I cover the top 4 questions related to crankcase venting: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JPI3AeMfYeg.html
Hey Ron thank for your tip on the crankcase vent. I have another question. This harley warranty stuff killing me. I'm told by the dealership I can put a full exhaust on and do a cam. But i have to use a SE tuner. Are you aware of any that won't void my warranty. I know they wouldn't tell if it was. Thank you
@@darrinwison7666 They have tuning locked down tight because of the EPA. As I understand it, if we use anything other than a SE tuner, it flags the ECU and the dealer can see that flag and therefore potentially void the warranty. That said, you can get a decent tune with the SE tuner. I had the dealer install my Stage III kit still under warranty, and they would only use the SE tuner. It runs great - I am sure there is power yet to be had, and that will come next now that my warranty is expired. But - the SE tune was decent.
Hi Ron, Thanks for the time you take to share the videos, I only have one simple question. In your parts description you have your favorite check valve as a Cole-Palmer. Could you please be more descriptive as why it's your favorite and an actual Cole-palmer part number and what PSI it's rated at. Thanks
I ended up choosing that particular check valve for several reasons, especially 1) very low opening pressure (just 0.1 psi) 2) solvent tolerance 3) temperature tolerance. The actual Cole-Parmer (Masterflex) part number is 9855302 for the 1/4” check valve. I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier I used no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ And here's another one that I have not tried but could be promising: bit.ly/3MgLY9A Other check valves may work fine, but the lowest possible opening pressure is definitely beneficial. Let me know what you end up with! And thanks for the encouragement :)
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks Ron for you fast reply to my Question, I did see both of those options while searching but in looking a lot of them don't say what the opening PSI is so thanks you for adding that. when I look at the Masterflex item I still don't see that information but I trust you did the research
My pleasure! This oil shows the opening pressure, but it doesn’t have any way to purchase it: us.vwr.com/store/item/NA5139763/miniature-plastic-hose-barb-check-valves
Great video bud, I ended up getting a different 3/16” check valve, as I blew through it it does check (if that’s the word) but I guess the question I have is should there be much resistance to allow it to vent or hardly any? I’m thinking the latter. Thanks for the video you’re a legend. Edit: I think what I need is a low pressure opening valve like .10 to .15 lbs pressure, the one I was able to locate are 2.0lb which feel like too much
Hey Romeo - you want it to be as easy as possible to blow through it and allow the air to pass the check valve. The less resistance the better. And thanks for the kind words!
Great video, first time viewer here,speaking for most older guys that are hard of hearing the last thing we need is trying to listen to the content of what ever we’re watching and then there’s this annoying music that makes it very difficult to hear what your saying!!! Anyway I think it will work thanks for sharing
@@pmaint1 if its easy to route from the breather bolts thats where i go from otherwise its just venting the dip stick, anythings better than nothing but you need to have it so your not sucking in the fumes when stationary
Hey Robert - thanks for the feedback! You could go with the 1/4” instead: amzn.to/3KhcIor Or this is one I’ve been wanting to try - it’s twice as expensive but made of metal and looks promising (but it’s 5/16”): amzn.to/3KhcIor Let me know what you go with…
Ok - I did some digging and found out that the previous supplier no longer carries the check valves, but there is a new supplier. The drawback is they only seem to sell them in packs of 6. Here’s a link to what I found: bit.ly/3GxGyGQ
Hi Ron, thankyou for sharing all this wisdom to help people like me to tackle these jobs!!! I have a 2018 FLHTK 107. I've done the intake breather mod, and used 1/4" tubing 2 into 1, went with 3/8 tubing where the 2 go into 1, then to a small filter. Wanting to do the crankcase breather mod, wondering your thoughts, or possible drawbacks to running those 2 lines together into 1 check valve to a catch can. Or if the crankcase is the only one that needs the check valve...
Hey tdbrillo - Thank you for the kind words! Be sure t watch this follow-up video for some important info about using both mods together: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html Regarding a catch can - I’ve just completed a project using a catch can, both mods, and a vacuum source. I’m editing that video now and I’ll release it ASAP. If you decide to tie them together, you’d probably be fine (especially with the larger tubing you’re using). The video I’m about to release should answer all the questions about the catch can. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hi Ron, I like excellent clips you made, keep going~ Do you know where can I buy a trask vented transmission top cover for my harley road glide special (FLTRXS) 2017 M8 to solve the oily intake. Thank you~
Hey Jesse - Thank you for the kind words! Here’s a link directly to the Trask CheckM8 page: bit.ly/Check_M8 Be sure to check with them because I believe they’ve said you should only use their top cover if you have a certain type of oil pump with o-ring seal. You can find the quote somewhere in these comments too. Let me know how it goes. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey there. Just did your breather mod and I recon it's improved performance on 3 points. So I have a 17 m8 FLHXS with power cams, race tuner air ram and SE mufflers so... 1. Feels like it now accelerates quicker with more pull. 2. The mufflers certainly have a louder bark 3. And, so when I use to have to drop down to 60 kilometres per hour (or KPH and I am in Australia) 4th gear used to start shuttering so would have to drop down to 3rd. Now, not only does 4th gear handle 60 kph with ease, I was able to drop down to 40 kph in 4th before it starts shuttering like it used to at 60kph. I can actually now drop down to 60 kph in 5th gear and still putt along. I know, I won't be doing that in my regular riding, but what it says to me, is quite a bit of opposing force to the engines power has been aliminated. Cheers Derek. 🍻
Hey Derek - thanks for giving the update with some quantifiable details! That's great to hear. I can feel the difference on mine as well and I've really been pleased with the performance. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Love the channel! I have some questions. I was going to do the trask solution. But they stated that it would only work correctly with the 2020+ due to some seal on the oil pump. So I didn’t. Did you run into some issue with losing oil? Second. If you vent the intake does it somewhat help also?
Hey Del1000r - thanks for the kind workds! I heard something about that as well, regarding the Trask CheckM8. I have the stock 2019 oil pump and I don't have any problems at all. I have not noticed any oil escaping from the pod filter. Be sure to check out these two follow-up videos for pertinent info: Answers about crankcase pressure & vacuum: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html Crankcase vent check-up video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jOATltGSkgU.html Also, if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great video Ron. I was wondering about the check valves you have listed in your parts list. I am using the 1/4 parts. Is the 5/16 brass pcv valve listed for a certain reason or is that just another option to use?
Hey Shawn - thanks for the kind words! I just listed multiple sizes to give options. Either will work fine. Sometimes there are availability problems that could be a factor too. Let me know which you go with and how it goes!
I was actually designing the same thing when I came across your video. I run a motorcycle shop in Phoenix and was looking for a system to fix the sumping issue that I encountered last weekend. Both the Feuling and Trask systems are sold out and on back order. I do like the transmission cover method better as well. I was thinking of using a car PCV valve but think they may be overkill and a PITA to figure out what pressure of spring for the valve to release pressure at. I think the check valve is going to be a must as the motor is essentially an air pump. I feel that if there was not one it would try to suck air in with the piston going up. I will of course be using my own 2019 Electra Glide for the test subject. Thanks for the video!
Hey Rob - thanks for the info and feedback! I searched high and low for a suitable metal mini PCV valve to no avail, as that was my first hope as well. The check valve I ended up with and gave a link for has very low breaking pressure (0.18 psi) but high max pressure (50 psi) and a 250° max temp. Based on those specs I felt comfortable with the piece. Let me know how it goes! And if you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Finally got to work on my own bike to get this completed. Taking off on a long 7k+ trip for a few weeks. When I get back in town I will update you on the outcome if it helped with the sumping, or if I will be rebuilding a 124 motor! Simple install for anyone that wants to try it though.
I have done the vented top cover like you described. I also believe this is the best location for the vent. Just changed the oil and “filter for the vent”, and have experienced excess oil residue on the swing arm and area near the rear tire splash shield. Not sure what to do to try and eliminate that messy stuff! Suggestions?
Hey Pat - Hmmm...I haven't seen much oil residue on mine. You might try mounting the little pod filter up high, but if you have the check valve it would get backed up on top of it. You could also secure the tube way down low and remove the pod filter, and it would drip occasionally -- but that's not necessarily the best. Let me know what you try and how it goes...
Hey Grayton - that’s excellent! Thanks for letting me know. Enjoy the ride :) And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey James - I’m trying to track down the details on the CVO VVT transmission top cover, but if it effectively vents the crankcase that seems like a good option. Let me know if you try it or find out more.
Ron, looking forward to an update on the transmission top cover venting. I have the EVS and I had the fueling vented dipstick. I had to put back the stock dipstick back on because too much oil was coming out of the dipstick/hose/breather and coating the entire underside of the bike. I am running a Woods 22XE cam/lifters and S&S camchest/oilpump/pushrods/chain tensioner/billet tappet cuffs and Andrews crank sprocket. Not sure if that contributes to the oil coming out of the dipstick breather. I have also seen people saying the EVS prohibits vacuum and is bad for the ring seals on the pistons. But I have seen the tops of pistons with an EVS and they look way better than those without.
Hey Brian - working on the follow-up video now. I finally got good info on the various points that were unanswered in the crankcase vacuum video that I posted after this one - so check that one out too if you haven’t yet. The vacuum is definitely good for the motor, but pressure is not. Do you know if you’re having any sumping issues with the external intake breather installed? And did you have any sumping before that? I’m feeling like a good combo is venting the crankcase (with check valve) while retaining the OEM head breathers is a good combo - assuming there are no sumping issues to complicate things. This approach vents the pressure from the crankcase but still allows for the beneficial vacuum.
@@RonsWorkshop Ron, I did not have any sumping issues as far as i know. I watched a few videos on the carbon buid-up on top of the pistons and that is why i did the EVS. I'll wait for your follow up video on the vacuum/pressure issues. It is crazy that venting the oily gasses back into the bike is good for it because it keeps vacuum. I'll stand by for your next video.
Yeah I understand. It ends up being a situation where we have to weigh the options and pick the one we feel most comfortable with, knowing there are some trade-offs.
Which way is the check valve? Restricting in which way? Preventing flow to the transmission vent or away from it? Some clarity if you please. Great videos and info!!!
Hey Daniel - thanks for the kind words! You want the air to flow away from the crankcase, and out to the atmosphere. Let me know if you need more info...
@@RonsWorkshop thanks. That clears everything up. Looks like a winter project. George Brice agrees that is a good fix especially for the 117 motors. Thanks again, and keep the good videos coming.
Hey Michael - I’d click Show More to see the full video description you can see a list of all the parts, including the check valve. Let me know if you need more info.
Hey Derrick - thanks for the feedback! No, I didn’t use clamps on any of the hoses. I ended up with two different brands of hose - one is a bit tighter than the other. The loose one could use clamps but the other one is fine. There’s no significant pressure but as they get hot they could work their way off the barbs if the hose is on the loose side. Let me know if you go with clamps. Also be sure to watch the follow up video as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I definitely could have. If I do it again I’ll approach it slightly differently - like get the metal transmission cover, drill it, and tap it for a threaded fitting.
I just did this on my early 2017 street glide. The gasket in mine is way different, but the cover is aluminum. Anyway, I drilled a 5/8 hole in the gasket to allow to breath out of my bulk fitting. Ran about 50 miles. Although it ran really great, my uni filter and the blue shop rag I wrapped around it was completely saturated with oil. I cracked it open again to find that my gasket may have been holding oil close enough to my fitting to blow it out my tube. So I cut my gasket to match that venting void in hopes to mitigate that issue. Didn't get to test ride yet... fingers crossed.
Hey Anthony - yeah the aluminum covers have a different gasket. Thanks for sharing that update - definitely let me know how it goes on the next test ride!
@@RonsWorkshop it's was absolutely worse. I've ran an A1 vented dipstick with 0 problems, and will have to go back to it. First I have to clean up all the oil that splattered all over the side of my bike. I have a S&S oil pump, cam plate and everything... I don't get it.
I have another idea, venting the blow by to the trans cover, then venting the trans cover simultaneously then put a can or filter breather. What do you think?
You have a 3/16 or 1/4 check valve in the parts list. Which are you running and which would u recommend? By the way, the channel you have built is awesome. The content is relevant and useful. Thanks for all u have done here.
Hey AZ Triumphster - thanks for the feedback! I’m using the 3/16” fittings but either size would work fine from what I can tell. When in doubt, go bigger in this case. Also be sure to check out the follow-up video for pertinent info: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop thanks for getting back to me on this. I've watched this video, the external air breather one, and the vacuum one more than a few times each. Subscribed too. I had originally planned to do the external air cleaner breather & and the vented trans cover but after watching ur follow up, it makes sense to do the the trans first then see what happens and go from there. With a check valve, whats the necessity of the breather filter on the end of the line? Speaking of M8s, if u get a chance checkout dean-speed.com. Its a co. my buddy and I started, making handlebars, and after I picked up my '19 Slim, we started making parts for M8s. The owner, my colleague, has a 2020 Street Bob decked out with half a dozen of our parts. U might dig it. Any way, thanks again and stay safe out there.
@@aztriumphster Sorry for the delay in responding - the comment got help for review and I just now saw it. With the crankcase vent, the cehck valve lets the pressure escape and it goes out through the little pod filter (in my case). The check valve prevents anything from being sucked back in. Let me know if that makes sense...
Thank you Ron for your awesome videos! Two questions - 1) which way does the check valve go in, I am assuming to allow pressure downward towards the trans cover - 2) It looks like you ran the tubing from the intake somewhat upwards to hide it a bit and then down to the cover. Won't this cause any oil to back up in the tubing and defeat the purpose? If you have any other photos of your routing I would appreciate it. Thank you in advance for your time and response!
Hey Renard Barto - thank you for the encouragement! The check valve should allow the air to flow out the pod filter but not let it back into the crankcase. As for the routing of the lines - you make a good point. It would be easy enough to find a new route that was more direct so that’s definitely worth considering. Let me know how it goes if you give it a try!
The vent line goes from the transmission top cover to the check valve and then to a little miniature filter (pod filter). You could leave it open to the air if you have a check valve, but I like the extra assurance knowing there is no way for anything foreign to enter, even if the check valve gets gunked up or sticks open.
@@RonsWorkshop Hmmm I may not have explained myself correctly as I am new at this - I am talking about the lines from the breather bolts near the air intake to the cover....
No worries. There are actually two modifications. The first one is at the intake (the external breather mod). Those lines go up and over and then back down to a pod filter but there’s no check valve. The second is the crankcase breather mod that taps into the transmission top cover. That one goes to a check valve and then a pod filter. They could be connected together with a T fitting - it happens that I did them at different times but I’ll likely connect them together. Also note that if you do both mods you remove the chance for getting a vacuum in the crankcase (the breather mod eliminates the oily residue in the intake but removes the potential for vacuum). Vacuum is beneficial but more important in my opinion is venting the pressure out. So if you end up doing both the check valve isn’t really needed since there’s no vacuum source. That’s a long answer but perhaps it will help. Let me know if you need more info. There are several videos after this one where I cover a ton of info. You can see the playing here: ru-vid.com/group/PLH2H949XFljmYmV9nukq4pl4PdUrPJcVq
Have you seen what they did with the new cvo’s. They no longer have the head breather system. They only vent from the trans top cover and route to the intake to create a vaccum to suck the crankcase pressure out. I’m curious to see how much this reduces oil in the intake. I would think a lot being the oil has a much harder time flowing up hill but haven’t been able to tear into one yet.
Over spring and summer doing city, backroad and interstate rides, I put a few. 1- 2k miles on my 2020 and 2021 M8, 107s with my crankcase vented (via transmission cover, using acheck valve, and, then to an open hose with paper tissue) I haven't seen any oil or oil vapor on the tissue yet..still not sure I'll need to do more to eleminate excessive oil into the intake..guess I'll have to keep an eye on the oil build up in my air filter housing
Would it make more sense to put the bulkhead fitting in the other way? That way you can keep and eye on that nut if it stays right or not? It’s good that the nut can’t go down the holes inside, but you wouldn’t know if it’s fallen off in there or not maybe. And if it loosens you could have an air leak and be ruining your vacuum.
No strong preference - but be sure to check your leg clearance with the air cleaner. That was an issue for me, and the air cleaner I chose gave me knee clearance whereas the other styles would have caused interference. Let me know what you pick - they both look nice, and that style in general gives good airflow because of the amount of filter area.
My 2018 SG CVO doesn’t have any issues at all and it’s a stock M8 117ci from the factory.....the Ventilator intake is clean every time I look at it...no issues so far...I’ve heard there’s a blow by problem with the M8 but mine doesn’t seem to have this issue for whatever reason......I’ve spoken with several mechanics.....and as one would guess there’s some who think you need to use these solutions and some that don’t....I’m not going to mess with mine at least for now....
Hey Gunship Gray - thanks for sharing that info! There are definitely two camps on this issue (need / don’t need). I had noticeable oil in my intake so I went for it. If you ever decide to do it let me know it goes.
Hey Brian - thank you for the kind words! That little tube that’s there from the factory vents the gearbox side of the case. There’s a divider down the middle of the case, under the transmission top cover, and the crankcase side is unvented.
I have found no dipstick venting solution for the 107 M8, anyway running my engine with the dipstick removed showed me that the flow did not increase with RPM's like my 2013 sporty Custom does at the rocker cover vents!@@RonsWorkshop
I believe it was one of your vids that told me that In May of 2019 Harley started to use an upgraded oil pump. I made sure that my bikes Date of Manufacture was after that, thank you. I will install a catchcan for the breathers and just enjoy my 2019 Street Glide when the temp drops below 90.!!! Have Fun @@RonsWorkshop
So Ron, I removed my cover and unlike yours with gasket covering over just the middle chamber, mine has gasket covering over the middle and the right side. I believe this is what others meant by punching holes in the gasket. Am a bit timid about doing that. Don't understand why that side is covered like that in the first place. It would seem that the right side is divided into two separate chambers, the space in the bottom with the vent holes and the space under the cover where I'd be putting the bulkhead fitting. Once I put the gasket back on it would seem that that little compartment with the bulkhead fitting is sealed from the oil/crankcase vents, hence, the question about punching holes in the gasket. Also, someone talked about absolutely needing the check valve to maintain vacuum pressure to seal O rings or piston rings, I believe, especially if using the external breather system at intake in conjunction with the crankcase breather. Otherwise, it would be an "open breather system" and jacking things up over time. Doesn't the check valve preserve the vacuum and negate the open breather system so you can indeed use both systems? Lastly, how the heck do you remove that freakin' gasket?
Hey Rob - If the transmission compartments would still be sealed from the crankcase compartment after punching a hole you should be fine. On mine, there was a little tab on the gasket that stuck out of a little notch on the cover, and I was able to coax it out using that and gently pulling. For the check valve - I agree that if a check valve is used on the transmission top cover vent, that would preserve the vacuum and should have nothing to do with the intake breather mod causing it to be a free breather. The breather mod just vents the blow-by away from the intake, so even without the breather mod there is airflow from blow-by. Let me know if my answers make sense.
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks Ron, I just wanted to be sure I was reading replies correctly that they were punching a hole in that part of the gasket to allow access to the breather assembly. Have no idea if it would be sealed from the transmission compartments until I remove the gasket. Guessing since others did so it must be. Man is that a loaded statement.
@@RonsWorkshop Installed the mod, road tested, ran great. Thanks for doing this and saving us some cash. Ill be keeping an eye on the - oil in the intake - issue. Man, it was leaking out of the filter and onto the cam chest. Hope this puts an end to that. If not then I'll go to the external breather system. A guy I ran into had two catch cans attached to braided hoses hanging down right next to his intake and it looked pretty sharp. Instead of hiding it he made it into a fashion statement. The glaring issue, however, is the carbon build-up on the pistons. Bike has 11000 miles so there's bound to be something there. Does it eventually burn off do you know? I've seen something about spraying sea foam through the spark plug hole.
Thanks for the update!! Let me know how the intake looks after some miles. I suspect you’ll see a big difference. I’m not sure if the carbon will burn off - I kind of think not, but at least we can avoid more buildup. I haven’t tried sea foam or anything else like that but perhaps that would help. Regarding the catch cans - my sculpture teacher always said “if you want to hide it, make it obvious”! If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Michael - in this video you’re seeing my Lucky Speed Shop levers and I bought them directly from them. I really like the levers - I did a full review here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fo3Oc0iawLs.html And I made a set of my own as well, even shorter, and had them Cerakoted: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2mUqy6Kq4y4.html
Hi Ron, I just found your videos and would appreciate your input on the subject. Do you agree that the Trask cover may allow for cooler engine temperatures by acting as a better heat sink since it's aluminum rather than plastic? Secondly, do I assume correctly that removal of the trans top cover will be easier to accomplish while I have the exhaust system removed? Keep up the easy to view videos -- you're a natural!
Hey bavedoyd - thanks for the feedback! I suppose the aluminum would be of some help for cooling, but I wouldn't think it would be a huge difference -- but that's just my opinion. Yes, you'd have easier access to the top of the transmission with the exhaust removed, but that's certainly nor required. It would sill be fiddly trying to get to the bolts - I did most of my work from the left side f the bike where the exhasut wasn't a factor, and it was still tight working in that space. Let me know what you decide, and how it goes! Also be sure to watch the follow-up video for some pertinent points: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BaG1VdOFe48.html If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks, Ron! My plan is to upgrade to S&S cam chest parts so I may as well tackle the transmission cover too while the exhaust system is off. The cooling improvement may be minor at best, but I also like the idea of replacing plastic with billet and the built-in reed valve seems like a great thing. Since I'm lucky enough to be able to afford it, I like supporting made in USA companies. I'm keeping an open mind, but at this point I'm going to leave my intake breather bypass to catch can system in place. The crankcase vacuum theory just doesn't ring true to me and I think HD added the umbrella valves & breather tubes only to satisfy the you know what. Even if the vented transmission cover cuts blow-by way down, NO amount of hot, oily vapor in the air/fuel mix is good. Your videos on the topic are most enlightening!
Very nice! Let me know how it all goes and how you like the Trask solution. That looks like a great piece. By Monday I’ll be releasing a follow-up video where I check the breather bolts again for oil and also inspect the check valve, since I’ve been running with the crankcase breather but no external breather mod.
