Andrew, Thank you for the video. Can you please make a video for with the same method explanation for DJJaaM question.? I have the same problem (A1466 2013) after liquid, It seems a common problem. I don't have the schematic but I checked the Fuse and I have PPBUS_G3Hot power rail - in my case its around 8.1V.' I have also 3.3V which going to the battery and to On Switch
Just fixed one of these for a friend. I found a small brown cap was short. But it would still not start. Checked battery voltage and was around 7.6V I charged it to 8V on a benchtop supply. But it still wouldn't start. tried smc and pram reset. (Left it overnight on it's new fake power brick to keep charging). Next day and it started but in the password screen it seemed to shut itself down once. Asked owner for password and ran a few tasks such as 1st aid in disk util. then a pram reset. Seems ok now. SSD is hot and processor heatsink is hot. Not sure how normal that is. One thing I find strange and annoying not owning a pc is that Paul Daniels board view only seems to work on a pc and not on mac....... One thing I find strange is that the power brick he bought for it recently states an output voltage of 14.85V but the psu for my Retina which has the same type of magsafe has a rated output of 16.5V Wondering if the recently purchased power brick is the culprit? Also. just checked SSD and processor again after the resets and first aid and they are not as hot, much cooler in comparison. Oh well. Lets see if it keeps running and i will double check the suspect power brick.
ive checked for Voltage at the fuse, getting 8.6V fine. is there a list of possible components for no power, with required nodes and voltage measurements to ground? my battery replacement did not fix it. the device said service battery for a few months, and the customer didnt bring it in until after the device shut down
Mines doing the same thing I checked that fuse it's good on both side but the power button still don't work if you unhook the battery then hook the charger up it boots fine. I've also changed the keyboard and the controller on the back side of the mouse. Where else could I look? Thanks
Just watched the ps4 repair from hell and was going to ask if you had ever seen Louis's channel. Then i saw you were subscribed so I jumped ahead to this Macbook repair. I've learned so much about repairing Apple products from him that they are most times easy! Can't drag solder as well as him but I just try blaming that on not having as nice a scope!
THIS IS GOT TO BE THE BEST AND EASIEST VIDEO TO FOLLOW ON RU-vid TO LEARN HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT BOARDS AND LEARN BOARD REPAIR. HE EXPLAINS IT SO WELL AND SO EASY TO FOLLOW. JUST SUBSCRIBED. ALL THE OTHER VIDEOS ON RU-vid ARE HARD TO FOLLOW BECAUSE THEY ASSUME YOU SHOULD ALREADY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT AND THEY ARE VERY HARD TO FOLLOW. JAY
After removing the fuse you do not measure if there is a short to ground. Why else should the fuse blow? is that not a miss on your part when fixing this?. That again can make it fail again. Have done rep on electronic few decades. maybe i missed you checked that. Keep on doing board rep, Great to see.
Cheers mate - yes I'm trying to diversify my content a little - I'm getting into Macbook repairs recently so hopefully there'll be some more interesting component level stuff to come.
I have a load of dead macs and laptops I get given them for part as I help out my local recycle centre I didn't realise you repair them as well, I have an a1466 that doesnt even show the charge light my ps4 is still going strong cant thank you enough for fixing it =)
Yeah Macs are another of my babies ha ha! :) If it's not showing the charge light then it's missing the One Wire circuit - check PP3v42 is present along with voltage to and from the logic gate. If that's OK then you're best replacing the ISL6259 (U7100).
Thankyou so much from Adelaide Australia. Been in electronics many years but always need help with familiarisation of particular systems like the A1466 you have been very very helpful, so thanks again regards Trev
You are a legend thankyou so much I have it set up. Just need to fix my Granddaughter's A1466 13inch 2014 now which had water on keybrd now dead all round absolutely nothing have stripped down to just brd so now, as I have both Apple Diagram's plus Board layout, hopefully I can find problem or problems!! haha Regards and thanks again Trev from Adelaide
No problem mate. Best place to start is the Power Aliases page - measure each voltage rail and check it matches what's in the schematic. Note any that are missing or off what they should be then go from there :)
Durga Mahapatra Nice video and explanation. I have a mac air 13 2012 which is dead. From the 5V rails PP5V_s0,S3 and S5 are missing. Can you pl tell me where to look for problem ? Thank you so much
I have a no power issue on the same board, and I’m getting 8.18 on both sides of inductor and both sides of the fuse. Any thoughts? Thank you!!! Edit: there is also no visible damage anywhere, however I was told a ridiculously small amount of water fell on the corner of the keyboard. Worked fine put it to sleep and next morning not powering on.
What is the open press down type connector that is near the middle mounting hole on the motherboard? I ask because the Mac mini 2014 has a similar connection that is apparently a way to connect to the PCIe bus. ( beetstech.com/product/ssd-cable-connector-821-00010-a ) Would it by chance be possible that the 2012 MBA has that same connector and could it maybe be used for a NVMe PCIe Drive with maybe an longer flex cable?
I’ve bought a macbook air 2012 that didn’t start at all, but the charging plug was lighting up green when plugged in and amber after few seconds. My fix was in freeing the motherboard from all wires and then reconnecting them(without the battery), put the back plate back on without the screws, then opening the mac, plugging the power cord and it started up, then safely turned it off and installed the battery and that was it. Worked on 2 Macs so far
Has anyone ever been able to find this F7140 fuse for sale? I don't have a donor board but i've tried a couple of different types of 8A 24V 1206 surface mount fuses and they don't seem to work. When the fuse is off the board I get 8.5v on pin 1, then when I put any of these fuses on pin 1 drops to around 0.5v. Am I missing something? Am I wrong in assuming these other fuses should work?
Thanks for that - I tried all the resetting procedures, but nothing worked. I thought the laptop may have been dropped or most likely a SMD fuse, but wasn't sure what package the fuse came in. After seeing you video clip I immediately identified the fuse and lo and behold - open circuit! However, just wondering why you removed the PCB from the laptop, as you could have done this repair without removing the PCB. Thanks anyway, I did it for my neighbour and she'll be very, very grateful...LOL!
Thanks for the help. But I'm stuck on figuring out how to purchase those parts? Currently I have a 820-00165 with a dead F7140 and C7374. But I have no clue how to find out the correct size and values of the part to order. I tried mouser and entered the values for the tant-poly cap but they are no where matching to the needed stats (65uF; 20%, 11V; CASE-B2S). I can't find any cap that suits into all of those values. How to pick the correct one by adjusting a value? Also for the fuse. I basicly only have 8A/24V but nothing else. Can you give me a hint on how to find out the correct spare part? Thanks in advance
Love ur videos!!! Here's a question for the infrared red that I want to fix but am almost afraid to try as I know virtually nothing about hardware.... After a drop my MacBook Air began behaving really odd (surprise!) no sound or audio is the only constant. Sometimes it won't turn on unless I do the... er, command, option, tab, power... thing lol ugh (embarrassing I'm SO SORRY FOR MY TECHNICAL 🙊🙈TERMINOLOGY🙈 🙈🙈😶) Lately tho I can turn it on without having to do the usual (for me) which was: mess with the charger (plug in take out at random while I knock on the bottom of it and down it's spine , press the above keys & repeat til it worked.🙊🤔👍 It's coming on now without that but it's done this before only to return to the above again. Also I get the black "screen of death" a lot, and program crashes where before I had none of that. So now really it's just my sound/audio... sometimes the battery will get very hot but usually it's the standard apple "cool/feel nothing going on"... 😐🙊 ahem so! 🙈 should I open it up to fix? Or is there a way I may can reset it & fix this without the need of risking me -a clumsy person- being a surgeon with my MacBook🙊🙏 ? I did a "factory reset" and nada happened .... that is needless to say to u guys I'm sure tho lol sorry.. hope to hear soon!!! Either way keep making your videos, absolutely awesome!
Hi, yesterday I wrote to thank you for your clip on the open circuit SMD fuse. I ordered a pack of these this morning, but then decided to measure the SMD fuse to confirm it was O/C. Strangely, it reads .4ohms, which indicates it is still intact, though there is only 8.6 Volts on one side of the fuse. Further investigation shows that a number of SMD caps (some in parallel) next to the fuse read S/C, probably sucking the 8.6 volts on one side of the fuse, to ground. Most likely just one of the caps is S/C. This is all I can think of. Have you any ideas?
Hey man, can you tell me where i can buy the inductor that you changed? I found a faulty one on my A1466 Macbook Air but i don't know where to buy it? Amazing video by the way
Hi thank you for this video. I have the same issue on a Macbook A1465 11" 2015 can you tell me what is the reference of the fuse for this model ? thank you !
This video was indeed of help. Replaced a blown cap and was getting this same voltage reading on the power rail. Changed the same fuse on mine and boom💥 its 100% working.
Andrew Paul is their a better way to talk to you I have the logic board I think it just has slightly different parts/locations and I am bad at this kid of tech and the symptoms are must be plugged in to use but if unplug before shutdown screen go black but mouse is on it and it can be moved
Great Video Andrew. Congrats for the excellent job. I was wondering if you could help me with my MacBook air a1465 that stopped to work suddenly. No liquid spill. I have no green light and no PPBUS_G3H and the fuse and coil are OK. Which are other common faults in this kind of board? Thanks.
That is a great video. My macbook is the exact same model and I am unable to power up. I get the correct voltage up to that circuit you replaced but still not power.. Any ideas what can continue causing issues? Any help will be appreciated
Do u really need to take out d board when i want to chk voltages? would it be ok to just have it stay there and uae multimeter? im suspecting i also have fuse problem. pls enlighten. thanks. wil it damage anything if i dont remove the io board etc?
Sure thing. Do you use anything like eBay at all? If so, drop me a message / phone number etc on there and I can send you some more info. My page can be found here: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/lufcfan2004
Never be tempted to bypass a fuse. They blow for a reason and failing to fix and identify that reason may lead to further permanent damage down the line.
I have a question what liquid did u use to remove and clean the component that you replaced? Where can i get the replacement component? What is the name of the component?
Hey man, I have a macbook 820-3437 and the PPBUS-G3Hot power rail checks back at 8.5V. What is your go to after that? I cant find any traces that look damaged. It was originally water damaged (beer damage). I can't figure it out. If you could shed any light that would be great man. Thanks.
PPBUS_G3H is just one of the required rails you need. Look around the board for any dried liquid stains and red probe points etc for pointers as to where the damage might lie. You'll need to ensure you also have other required rails such as PP3v42_G3H, PPBUS_S5_HS, PP5v, PP3v3, PPVRTC_G3H, PP1v8, PP1v5, PP1v2, PP1v05, CPU VCORE etc. Look on the power aliases page (p62 on that particular schematic) and check each listed rail - see what you have and what's missing then go from there.
Hello Can I send you my mac book air 2013 for fixing please? It will not turn on. I have done all the usual tricks and have even tried to cross the power-on pads location on MacBook Air - A1466 but still not good. I have replaced the battery and it charges. Regards Jay
Hi i have a1466 No power I Removed batterry and tried also tried to remove ssd abd ram as well no luck. When I tried to reset smc its turn green for 2 sec and turn orange again. Any clue. thanks
One Question- when you used the multimeter to test the "PPBUS_G3Hot" -where did you put the black lead of the multimeter? I know you said "ground" but what would be a good ground to use? I was able to open mine up and put red lead of the multimeter but it was showing negative voltage (like -7 and or -8).
Black lead on any screw hole or find a GND pin on the boardview. Red lead on the pin to measure in DC volts mode - if you're getting somewhere close to ~8.6v you're good.
Hi Andrew, mac air 2009 - wont power up SMC resets didn't work, took back off - processor ? is red hot (big multi pin ic next to charger connection) model has huge battery covers about half the inside of the machine, model to small to read off rear of machine at 1am.
Hello, I'm from Brazil and I was able to find your video after a lot of searching on the internet, I work at the company AppleVale, here in Brazil, we only work with Apple products, your video helped me clean 3 plates this week. Thank you and won + 1 more follower
Hi, Sadly I can't do that as they're not freely distributed however I will say that Google is your friend here. It's likely you're missing either PP3v42 or PPBUS_G3H if you have no power/no light on charger.
Lift the coil behind the fuse and check for shorts to ground on either side. Hopefully it'll be charger side as it'll be a lot easier to diagnose. If it's system side then you'll need to hook the system side of the coil up to an external power supply and feed in voltage/current to see what gets hot first.
I have a question please . What if I don’t get 8.6V on the inductor and the Fuse . Must replace the chip U7100 or what do you recommend? Thanks in Advance for your help
If you remove the inductor and check for a short to ground on the motherboard on both sides of where that inductor sits do you get a short and if so, is it on the charger side (side coming into the inductor from ISL6259 / Q7130) or system side (side coming from the inductor into F7140)?
@@AndrewPaul so should I replace both of them or what if there a short on the motherboard ? And if isn’t a short on motherboard , what will be then the issue ? But I assume from your comments this is nothing to do with the chip U7100 , is that right Thanx
Neither currently. A reading of .37v would suggest a short on that main G3H line - we need to narrow it down and work out if that is indeed a short to ground and if so, whether it's coming from the charger side or the system side hence removing the inductor and checking both sides of the site for a short to ground.
Hi Majeed, Sure - are you needing help to identify where these things from the schematics are on the board itself, or to find replacement components online to purchase after finding them on the schematics etc?
hi Andrew , I have a Macbook pro 2011 a1297 ( 820-2914) , it charges the battery but only would start up if I disconnect the battery and connect it back in. Would you give me some clues as to what to check? thank you for the very Informative video
John Mathias hi John, after investigating , the problem was with the keyboard. the power button is part of the keyboard circuit and it wasnt shorting when pressed. For some reason it works when the battery is disconnected -something in the circuit logic. hope this helps.
Indeed - if you have the schematic for the board, the component type, size, specification and tolerances are given on the document - just type it into Google and you'll likely get results from electronics distributors like Mouser, Farnell, RS. Element14 etc.
@@AndrewPaul Good day, first of all I congratulate you on your channel. I have a doubt, in my case I connect the charger and I have a green light. However, the equipment does not turn on. The heatsink only rotates a few seconds when I press the power button. Now make capacitor continuity measurements (F7140) and the result is zero. Do you think that changing the F7140 capacitor could be the solution?
You'll need to remove the motherboard and see what damage has been done beneath. It won't likely be an easy fix - if you're not used to this kind of work then it might be best to take it to a professional.
Andrew! Superb video. You really showed it step by step. Much appreciated. I have a few boards in need of repair. Do you have a PayPal so I can get advice on repairs? Thx
Hi Ant, Yes mate you can do - do you have anywhere I can contact you on? Failing that you can contact me either via a message on here, DM on Twitter (@YTAndrewPaul) or ebay: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/lufcfan2004 Cheers mate, Andy.
Macbooks - depends really. Some of the major ICs like ISL6259s etc are easily and cheaply purchased new from most component retailers. Things like SMCs and small surface-mounts are taken from donor boards.
Anywhere like Mouser, DigiKey, Farnell, Element14 etc will have these in stock. Be sure it's definitely the fuse though - they aren't often the cause of a missing PPBUS_G3H line unless you're aware of some tinkering in that area of the board as in this scenario where someone has shorted the component directly. Do you have light on your charger when connected?
Awesome information!! Andrew, i have one A1466 that is similarly dead but in my case, neither the charger light turns on, tried with another charger but nothing, where can i begin testing to see the problem???
You'll need to check for PP3v42_G3H to see it's present at 3.42v - you'll need to check the Onewire circuit firstly to ensure you have the necessary signals going to the charger control IC. What motherboard revision do you have there? Should start 820.
Andrew, Thank you for the video. Can you please make a video for with the same method explanation for DJJaaM question.? I have the same problem (A1466 2013) after liquid, It seems a common problem. I don't have the schematic but I checked the Fuse and I have PPBUS_G3Hot power rail - in my case its around 8.1V.
Thanks for your replies, actually the computer now turns on/off and charges after i checked with schematics. But now there's another problem... No power on all PCI-X so the computer won't recgnize the SSD and WiFi/Bluetooh Card...
